10 x 1mm flat sterling wire (see Step 1 to determine the length of flat wire needed for your ring size)
21 mm long strip of 1⁄4" (6 mm) 28-gauge fine silver bezel wire
4 aluminum 1⁄16“ × 3⁄32" (2 x 2.4mm Crafted Findings rivets
Ruler
Metal shears
Metal file
Sandpaper (various grits)
Ball-peen hammer
Steel bench block
Butane micro torch
Charcoal block
Fireproof work surface (cookie sheet)
Utility pliers
Quenching bowl
Large stepped forming pliers (16 mm)
Steel ring mandrel
Rawhide mallet
Fine-point Sharpie marker
2-hole screw-down hole punch
Riveting hammer
Liver of sulfur
0000 steel wool
Varies
1. Use metal shears to cut a strip of flat sterling wire the length of your desired ring size. For a size 5, cut it about 49 mm long; size 6 is 51.5 mm long; size 7 is 54 mm long; size 8 is 56.5 mm long; size 9 is 60 mm long; size 10 is 61.5 mm long. The final ring size will be confirmed as the design progresses. File the edges smooth.
2. Using the ball end of a ball-peen hammer, gently hammer one side of the wire to texture it. This will stretch out the wire and lengthen it slightly. Anneal the wire (see Annealing).
3. Wrap the wire on the middle step (16 mm) of a pair of large stepped forming pliers until it forms a circle. There should be a 3–6 mm gap between the two ends. Slide the ring onto a steel ring mandrel and use a rawhide mallet to tap the edges into the final round shape if needed.
4. Determine the current ring size while it is sitting on the mandrel. If the size needs to be adjusted, squeeze or stretch the gap in the wire to manipulate it to the desired size. There should be a 3–6 mm gap between the two wire ends. If the ring is too large, use metal shears to trim the wire and reshape it. If it is too small, pound the wire with a rawhide mallet while it is still on the ring mandrel or make the gap in the ring slightly larger by pushing the ring down onto a larger ring size on the mandrel.
5. Use metal shears to cut a 21 mm piece of bezel wire. File the edges smooth. Use a Sharpie to make two vertical dots, evenly spaced, about 3 mm from the outer edge on each end of the wire. Make a hole at each of the dots with the smaller 1⁄16" (2 mm) size of a 2-hole screw-down hole-punch. File the back of the holes smooth.
6. Take the small strip of bezel wire and form it over the ring where the gap is located. Center the wire so that there are equal amounts of bezel wire on each side of the gap. Gently curve the wire with your fingers so that it follows the curvature of the ring. Hold the bezel wire in place with your fingers. Using the small end of the 2-hole screw-down hole punch, screw the punch down into one of the previous punched holes of the bezel wire, and then continue to punch a hole into the ring to make a hole for a rivet. File the holes smooth.
7. Insert a Crafted Findings rivet with the head side going through from the inside of the ring. With the rivet in place, slide the ring onto the ring mandrel so that the end of the rivet protrudes on the outside of the ring. Use a riveting hammer to flare the tube on the outside section of the ring. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the second hole on the same side of the bezel wire.
8. Before riveting the holes on the opposite side of the bezel wire, confirm that the ring is the appropriate size. If it is too large, use your fingers to gently squeeze together the gap in the ring and hold in place when making the rivet holes on the opposite side of the ring. If the ring is too small, gently stretch the gap area apart to enlarge the ring. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 to form the final rivets on the other side.
9. Oxidize the ring in liver of sulfur. Buff the ring with fine steel wool to give it an antique silver finish.
Flat sterling wire: hauserandmiller.com. Bezel wire: riogrande.com. Large stepped pliers: beaducation.com. Rivets: craftedfindings.com.