TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourism in the Netherlands is organised on a Provincial basis through the nationwide network of tourist offices called VVVs. They are signed by a blue on white triangle of ‘V’s and the word Informatie. The Provinces covering the MARKET-GARDEN Corridor are Noord-Brabant - which contains the area from the Belgian Border to Grave - and Gelderland - the country’s largest Province, which contains Groesbeek, Nijmegen, The Island, Arnhem and Oosterbeek. The border between the two is the River Maas and the bridge at Grave which crosses it gradually changes from the red of Brabant to the green of Gelderland.
The addresses and phone numbers of the relevant VVVs on the Itineraries are given as they occur in text. They provide lists of local hotels, restaurants, events and attractions, maps, souvenirs etc, although many leaflets have to be paid for.
Before travelling, the visitor is recommended to obtain the current A Traveller’s Guide to Holland, which has useful general information, from their national Netherlands Tourist Board: website: www.holland.com. London - PO Box 523 London SW1 6NT. Tel: 0906 8717777 E-mail: information@nbt.org.uk.
New York - 355 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Tel: + 212 3389117. E-mail: info@goholland.com Toronto - PO Box 1078, Toronto, Ont. M5C2K5. Tel: + (0) 0416 3631577. E-mail: nbtor@aol.com
First and foremost the visitor to the Netherlands should be aware that Credit Cards are not universally accepted throughout the country. This applies to some petrol stations, cafés and photographic shops. So make sure that you have sufficient cash available or that credit cards are accepted before attempting to make a purchase.
shops normally open later on Mondays (usually at 1100 hours). Tuesday-Saturday 0930-1800 (Thursday 0930-21/2200). Banks are open on Monday from 1300-1700 and Tuesday-Friday from 0800-1700.
How to Get There (but see the Update on Page xxxvii)
By sea from the UK
P & O Stena. Dover - Calais. Frequent crossings: 75+ minutes.
Reservations: 087 0600 0600. Website: POSL.com
P & O North Sea. Hull - Rotterdam. Night crossing: 14 hours
Hull - Zeebrugge. Night crossing: 14 hours. Reservations: 01482 377177
Stena Line. Harwich - Hook of Holland. 3 hours 40 minutes. Reservations: 08705 707070
DFDS Seaways. Newcastle - Amsterdam. Day crossing: 14 hours. Reservations: 08705 333000
Hoverspeed. Seacat or the newer Super Seacat. Dover-Calais 50 minutes. Dover-Ostende 2 hours. Reservations: 08705 240241
Seafrance. Dover-Calais 90 minutes. Reservations: 08705 711711
By air from North America/UK. Flights into Amsterdam Schiphol. There are then frequent links with Eindhoven Airport. Tel: + (0) 40 291 818. KLM. Amsterdam - Tel: + (0) 20 474747. USA - Tel: 1-800 4474747 Northwest Airlines. USA Tel: 1 800 4474747. Martinair nonstop from the USA and Canada. Tel: 1-800-MARTINAIR.
RentaCar. All major car rental car companies operate from Schiphol and other airports - Avis, Budget, Hertz etc and cars can be booked in advance more cheaply in your home country. There will probably be a minimum age requirement of 21-23 years. Valid national driving licences are required.
General Driving. Drive on the right, pass on the left. Seat belts compulsory. Speed limits are 30/50kms (25/30 mph) in built-up areas, 80kms (50mph) per hour out of town on normal roads, 100kms (62.5 mph) on A roads and 120kms (75mph) on motorways (with some sections clearly designated lower speed areas). Priority is normally from the right, but white signs like triangular sharks’teeth painted on the ground indicate that you do not have right of way as do inverted triangular red-bordered signs. There are many radar speed controls. Very few roads are numbered and navigation has to be done by road names or direction signs, an acquired technique.
Some useful road signs: Afrit Exit (from motorway); Alle Richtingen All Directions; Doorgaand Verkeer Through traffic; Drempels Sleeping policemen; Fietsers Cyclists; Let op Attention/watch out for…
By Rail. Eurostar. London (Waterloo) - Brussels and thence to Dutch destination by Intercity. Tel: 0990 186186 Eurotunnel. By car from Dover - Calais. 35 minutes crossing, plus waiting time to board. Tel: 0990 353535 Holland Rail. Rail card passes available for unlimited nationwide 3 or 5 days travel. Tel: 01962 773646. Amsterdam Express. Direct service from London via Harwich . Tel: 08705 455455
Public Transport. This is reasonably priced and efficient. Buy an economical Strippenkaart (strip card) from newsagents, tobacconists, stations, VVVs, for nationwide travel valid on buses, trams and metres nationwide.
Cycling and Walking. The mostly car-bound visitor from the UK or North America will be astounded at the number of bikes on the road in the Netherlands. Mothers with a baby in front of them, a toddler behind them, a young child on a small bike beside them and large shopping panniers ride alongside businessmen in suits with their briefcases, carpenters balancing long planks of wood, postmen with heavy bundles of mail, senior citizens who still ride with confidence and panache and teachers leading their whole class on an outing. On weekends and holidays, hiking and rambling in the beautiful woods around Groesbeek and Arnhem-Oosterbeek, the most wooded areas of Holland, takes over. The foreign pedestrian must be alert at all times to the sheer volume of cylists and that what might be assumed to be a pavement is in actual fact a cycle (and moped) path. The colour of these ubiquitous paths is being standardized to RED throughout the country. Motorists should be aware of cyclists at all times and the fact that they have priority (a legal requirement since 1 May 2001).
Cycles can be universally hired and all VVVs carry lists of outlets and supply special cycling and walking route maps. Additional road and traffic signs are placed at a low level for the benefit of cyclists and walkers. The small green ones give the distance every 100ms.
‘Airborne’ Walking and Cycling route maps may be bought from the VVVs at Arnhem and Oosterbeek and Eindhoven.
WHERE TO STAY. There are four obvious bases for touring MARKET-GARDEN: 1. Eindhoven
Eindhoven is now the fifth largest city in the Netherlands with 2,000,000 inhabitants. Known as the ‘City of Light’ because of its long association with Philips (it is also the home of the DAF car, now owned by Volvo), the town was extensively damaged during WW2, hence the modern aspect of its rebuilt centre. Now it is a thriving conference centre with several interesting museums, such as the DAF Museum, the Prehistoric Open Air Museum and the Kempenland Museum (details from the VVV, Tel: + (0) 40 2979115). There is a variety of hotels near the town centre:
Remember that it can be very wet and muddy in Holland
***** Dorint, Vestdijk 47. Newly refurbished. Leisure Centre. Own parking. Tel: + (0) 2326111.
**** Best Western Hotel Pierre, Leenderweg 80. Own Parking. Amrath Group (qv) Tel: [0031] (0) 2121012
**** Holiday Inn, Montgomerylaan 1. Swimming pool etc. Tel: + (0) 2433222
**** Mandarin Park Plaza, Geldropseweg 17. Swimming pool. Renowned oriental restaurant. Tel: + (0) 2125055
**** Novotel, Ant Fokkerweg 101.Swimming pool. Own Parking. Tel: + (0) 2526575
*** Tulip, Markt 35. Nearby Parking. Tel: [0031] (0) 2454545
** Campanile, Noordbrabantlaan 309. Near A2. Own Parking. Tel: [0031] (0) 2545400
** Royal, Stratumsedijk 23F. Own Parking. Small and personal. Tel: [0031] (0) 2121330.
There are also some good value Pensions and Guesthouses in the area and Camping Sites (contact VVV).
There are plentiful restaurants to suit all tastes and pockets within easy walking distance of the VVV: typical hearty and tasty Dutch; the local favourite - Indonesian; French, café-style, often with live music; Italian; Greek; Japanese; Spanish - even Mongolian. There are restaurants for steak-lovers, fish-lovers and vegetarians.
Shopping is also a pleasure in Eindhoven, with large department stores like De Bijenkorf and the Heuvel Galerie which has more than 100 shops under one roof. There is a market in De Markt on Wednesdays and an antiques/collectors’ market on Saturday. Supermarkets are open from 0800-2000 Monday to Friday and 0800-1800 on Saturday.
There is a Currency Exchange at the GWK office at the main railway station. The Post Office also adjoins the station
2. Nijmegen/Groesbeek
The University city of Nijmegen is the oldest in the Netherlands. It has many old areas where the ornate facades of the attractive and diverse-style houses, many with art deco and art nouveau features, survived the battering of the war. Remnants, too, of the ancient city walls and its Roman origins, many fine Gothic public buildings and churches and interesting themed museums can be visited on the recommended Nijmegen Town Walk (details from the VVV).
It is a bustling modern city, too, with large new shopping centres like the Dukenburg and the Molenpoort, a variety of small speciality boutiques and facilities like the Sanadome Health Spa, Tel: + (0) 24 3597200, based on natural thermal waters. Night life is lively, with the focal point being the Holland Casino, Tel: + (0) 24 3600000. Under the Casino are the remains of a Roman underfloor heating system. There are markets in the Grote Markt on Mondays and Saturdays. Some hotel choices:
**** Belvoir. Stunning situation overlooking the Nijmegen Bridge. Swimming pool and sauna, parking. Part of Amrath Group (qv). Tel: + (0) 24 3232344.
**** Sanadome (qv). Adjoining the Spa. Weg door Jonkerbos 90. Tel: + (0) 24 3597200
**** Mercure. Near the Station. Sauna and sunbed. Parking. Tel: + (0) 24 3238888
*** Bastion, Neerbosscheweg 614. Tel + (0) 24 3 73 0100
** Atlanta, Grote Markt 38-40. Tel: + (0) 24 3603000
* City Parc, Hertogstraat 1. Tel: + (0) 24 3220498
Contact the VVV for details of Camping Sites and Hostels.
Groesbeek and Berg en Dal are attractive areas, with rolling wooded hills and delightful walks and cycle routes, making for a pleasant stay. Here is the famous Africa Museum + (0) 24 6842044 and the Holy Land Foundation, the Open Air Biblical Museum + (0) 24 3823110.
Some Hotel suggestions:
**** Hotel Erica. The authors’ favourite, which they have been visiting with pleasure for over 20 years.
Owned until 2001 by the Van Vliet family, with historic associations with MARKET-GARDEN, it is now owned by the Amrath Group. Set in delightful landscaped grounds, excellent food, swimming pool and sauna, ample parking. Molenbosweg 17, 6571 Berg en Dal. Tel: + (0) 24 6843514
**** Golden Tulip Val-Monte. High quality, pleasant setting, swimming pool and recreation room. Parking. Oude Holleweg 5,6572 Berg en Dal. Tel: + (0) 24 68420000.
*** Hotel Sionshof. Historical associatioas with MARKET-GARDEN. Nijmeegsebaan 53. Tel: + (0) 24 3227727. Contact the VVV + (0) 24 3297878 for more choices, Camping Sites and hostels.
3. Arnhem-Oosterbeek
Arnhem is the lively provincial capital of Gelderland. The centre was largely destroyed during the September 1944 battle, including many of the beautiful old houses of the wealthy. Today it is a modern city with only a few original architectural gems, such as the only remaining city gateway, the Sabelspoort (qv). Some of the Euro 2000 football matches were played in the modern Gelredome with its moveable roof and extension pitch, and pop concerts are also held here. Like Eindhoven, Arnhem is a great shopping centre - the 5th most popular in Holland - with the famous De Bijenkorf department store, and many small fashion stores in the pedestrian precinct. Cultural events are staged in the imposing Musis Sacrum (qv) Tel: + (0) 26 4437343 and the Korenmarkt entertainment centre. Its surrounding wooded suburbs are extremely pleasant and boast some excellent museums (see Extra Visit, Itinerary Five).
A trolley bus system still operates in the area, unique in Holland. Note that there are extensive plans to redevelop the centre of Arnhem (including the Station and the waterfront) before 2015. The ambitious, modernistic designs aim to make the city the hub of the Eastern Netherlands when the high-speed train running from Amsterdam to Frankfurt will stop here, with vast shopping and leisure facilities. Huge new housing developments are also planned south of the River Rhine. In Arnhem the first Sunday of every month is a Shopping Sunday - open 1200-1700. On Friday there is a Fleamarket on Kerkplein from 0900-1700 and an Arts Market on the last Saturday of the month in Jansplein from 1000-1700.
4. Oosterbeek
This is in the district of Renkum and although the centre of the bitter fighting of ‘The Cauldron’ in September 1944, still retains an air of gentility with many fine houses restored to their former pre-WW2 glory.
It is surrounded by lovely woods and heathland.
Some hotel choices:
**** Bilderberg Wolfheze. Lovely setting. Swimming pool, mini golf. On site of Krafft’s 1944 HQ. Tel: + (0) 26 3337852
**** Golden Tulip Rijnhotel. Superb situation overlooking the Rhine. Tel: + (0) 26 4434642
**** Hotel Haarhuis. Near Arnhem Central Railway Station. Fitness room, sauna. Tel: + (0) 26 4427441.
Papendal National Sports Centre. 3 hotels with 3 restaurants adjoining the well-equipped sports centre.
Tel: + (0) 26 4837911
Hotel Dreyerood (qv), Oosterbeek. The September 1944 ‘White House’. Family run, welcoming, full of battle memorabilia. Tel: + (0) 26 3343169
Other hotels in the area appear in-text in Itinerary Five.
Contact the VVVs at Arnhem + (0) 26 4426767 and Oosterbeek + (0) 26 3338467 for more choices.
Golf Courses
Arnhem Rosendaelse Golfclub, Apeldoornseweg 450. Tel: + (0) 26 4421438
Est Golfbaan Welderen, Grote Molenstraat 173, Tel: + (0) 48 1376591
Golf Baan Het Rijk van Nijmegen, Postweg 17, 6561 KJ Groesbeek, Tel: + (0) 24 3976644.
Restaurants/More Hotels. As described above, there is a wealth of variety available. Dutch portions are very generous and breakfast and lunch menus depend very largely on a delicious range of bread and rolls, eggs and ham or bacon. Substantial pancakes (the Dutch equivalent of the pizza as they come with up to forty different toppings) make a convenient lunch. Several Pannekoeken Houses are described as they occur en route. Chinese, Indonesian and Indian restaurants are highly popular and in traditional Dutch restaurants the range of fresh vegetables and salad garnishes is quite astounding as typified in the Van der Valk hotel restaurants. North American visitors may be reassured by the familiar golden arches which rear up in or near most towns of any size.
The good value Van der Valk hotels are in several convenient situations along the 5 Itineraries, e.g.
Motel Eindhoven, Aalsterweg 322. Recreation Centre. Tel: + (0) 40 2116033
Hotel Vught, Bosscheweg 2, Vught. Swimming pool. Tel: + (0) 73 6587777
Motel de Molenhoek, Rijksweg 1, Mook. Tel: + (0) 24 3582175
Hotel Cuijk, Raamweg 10, Cuijk. Tel: + (0) 485 335124
Hotel West-End, Amsterdamseweg 505, Arnhem. Tel: + (0) 26 4821614.
There are also several around Ghent and Beveren on the Approach Route in Belgium.
Head Office enquiries: + (0) 76 5221240.
River Cruises.
A novel way to view the MARKET-GARDEN battlefields is from a boat on the Waal or the Lower Rhine.
Waal. Stoomboot Brandaris-Rederij Tonissen. Boat trips from the Waalkade,
Nijmegen, opposite the Holland Casino in the summer months. Tel: + (0) 24 3233285.
Lower Rhine. Rederij Eureka. Trips from Arnhem. Tel: + (0) 57 0615914.