Lamb is the signature meat of Armenian cuisine. It appears ground for meatballs, as whole leg or whole beast, in kebab chunks for grilling, as shanks for braising, and as riblets to add a meat element to vegetable stews. The lamb we often find in markets today is imported from New Zealand or Australia and is of excellent quality. It has a gamier taste than the softer-on-the tongue meat of American lamb, more akin, in my imagination, to the taste Armenians in the Old World favored. Ironically, it’s usually less expensive than domestic lamb and more available. Ironically, too, my father preferred American lamb; he was a consummate man of his New World. For myself, the imported meat shows off the traditional flavors of these wonderful dishes.
Pork is by and large not a part of Armenian food (a culinary characteristic shared with the Persians, Greeks, and Turks), even though it is not prohibited by the dietary laws of the Armenian Orthodox Church. Perhaps the scarcity of pork dishes is a result of centuries of living in the midst of Islamic cultures: Armenians simply didn’t acquire a taste for the meat. Curiously, in their new country, even when there were plenty of pigs available from American farms and no influencing population nearby that proscribed eating pork, Armenian cuisine never wholeheartedly adopted it. Nonetheless, there are representational pork dishes, and I include two special favorites, Pork Shish Kebab (page 136) and a meat and apricot stew (page 146) in this chapter.
Beef, however, is another story. Its rarity in the early Armenian repertoire was probably due to its scarcity rather than to religious proscription. When they found themselves in proximity to the Great American Plains and the West, with its vast expanses of grazing land and abundance of beef at an affordable price, Armenians were quick to swap lamb for beef in many traditional dishes, to the extent of sometimes preferring beef for dolmas.
Serves 8
For me, shish kebab signifies the art and soul of my father, and my connection to the Armenian side of my family. When I was growing up, shish kebab was Dad’s big deal. We had it every time there was a celebration: Easter; someone’s birthday; getting together with the non-Armenian relatives from New Mexico; a beautiful day in the backyard.
Dad had some serious, de rigueur guidelines about the shish kebab. First of all, the shishes (skewers) were made of metal. They were hand-forged in a square so the meat chunks wouldn’t twirl about as they would if the skewers were round. The metal also assured the meat would be heated from the inside as the skewers got hot over the fire. These shishes were part of our household, carried along wherever we traveled.
Just as important, nothing but his own boned-out, perfectly uniform, hand-cut leg of lamb squares would do. The vegetables—onions, green bell peppers, and tomatoes—had to be whole and skewered exactly through the middle so they, too, would stay put without twirling as the shishes were turned on the grill. No cutting the vegetables into chunks and no marinade for the meat. That was for other Armenians, not him.
As it finished cooking, each vegetable or meat was pushed off its skewer into a large pot using a chunk of bread as a hot pad and set aside, without being tossed or stirred, to quietly mingle aroma and juices until all the shishes had been cooked. Then the whole pot was served, just like that, with an accompanying pot of rice pilaf.
Here’s the recipe for how we did the shish kebab when I was a kid, plus an optional marinade for those who, like me, like a little extra seasoning in the meat. For his shish kebab feasts, Dad always allowed 1 whole bell pepper, 1 whole tomato, and 3 onions per person. That’s generous; you could stretch it a bit further.
1 leg of lamb (about 4½ pounds)
Aintab or Marash Marinade (optional, see box, page 133)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 whole green bell peppers
16 whole boiling onions, peeled
8 whole ripe tomatoes
2 recipes Basic Rice Pilaf (page 250), warm, for serving
2 recipes Yogurt with Cucumber (page 21), for serving
Bone the lamb (or have the butcher do it), reserving the bone. Trim the fat off the outside and cut the meat into 1½-inch cubes, trimming extra fat and gristle as you go. Reserve the trimming and bone and use for other dishes.
Place the lamb cubes in a large nonreactive dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add the marinade, if using, toss to coat, and set aside at room temperature for 2 hours, or refrigerate for up to overnight. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium high. String the meat on skewers. String the vegetables on skewers, one kind of vegetable per skewer without mixing them up, because they cook for different times.
To cook the shish kebabs, place the bell pepper skewers on the grill rack directly over the coals. Cook, turning 3 or 4 times, until the peppers are charred and collapsed, 15 to 18 minutes, depending on the size. Transfer to a large pot and set aside.
Next, cook the onions the same way until you can pierce them but they are still a little crunchy, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size, and then the tomatoes until collapsed and slightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer all to the pot with the peppers as they are done. Finally, cook the lamb until medium rare, rotating in one-quarter turns, about 8 minutes, and add to the vegetables. Serve with a steaming bowl of rice pilaf and the yogurt with cucumber on the side.
THE RELATIVES’ AINTAB OR MARASH MARINADE
Though my dad insisted the lamb for shish kebab was best plain and simple, seasoned only with salt and pepper, many Armenians, including me and my cousin, Gary Jenanyan, prefer to toss the meat in a marinade before grilling it. Since our families came from Aintab and Marash, I call the marinade by that name, and that’s how Gary and I prepared the lamb when we catered a Jenanyan family reunion in a Sacramento park in 1995. Gary, a professional chef and caterer, trucked his six-foot-long grills to the site and built a magnificent mesquite fire in each. When the fires were just right, coals covered with white ash with some red glowing through, we strung the marinated meat on shishes, and, with my husband, Rick, also manning the grill, cooked it just like we had learned growing up. The relatives, one hundred strong, were ecstatic that any of our generation knew the right seasonings and techniques, and a happy, nostalgic time was had by all. We called it an Armenian re-evolution! The marinade also makes an excellent soak for lamb chops.
To prepare enough marinade for 8 servings, combine ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, 2 tablespoons coarsely grated yellow onion, 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano (or ½ teaspoon dried oregano), 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper and whisk to mix.
Pour over the lamb cubes, toss to coat, and set aside to marinate at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
Serve 4 to 6
Shish kebabs of beef lightly marinated in red wine vinegar are a well-known specialty of Caucasian Armenians. I like to include a California touch with pasilla or Anaheim chili pepper squares in the marinade to give a bite to the whole bit. Skewers of tomato often accompany the beef.
1½ pounds boneless top sirloin, cut into 1½-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 small yellow or white onion, cut into 1-inch squares
2 medium fresh pasilla or Anaheim chiles, stemmed, seeded, membranes removed, and cut into 1-inch squares
24 cherry tomatoes (optional)
Place the meat in a dish large enough to hold the cubes in one layer. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Add the oil, vinegar, onion, and chili peppers and toss to coat the meat. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours or marinate in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours, removing 30 minutes before cooking.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium high. Skewer the meat cubes alternately with 2 or 3 each of the onion and pepper squares. String the tomatoes, if using, on separate skewers.
Place the meat skewers on the grill rack directly over the heat and cook, rotating in one-quarter turns, for 8 minutes, until medium rare. Transfer to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes for the juices to settle. Add the tomatoes, if using, to the grill and cook, turning once, for 4 to 5 minutes, until soft and lightly charred. Add to the platter and serve right away.
Serves 4 to 6
Here, pork puts in one of its infrequent appearances on the Armenian table in an out-of-the-ordinary shish kebab. In the marinade, which turns into a sauce, sumac lends its exotic glow and subtly tangy taste that is doubled with tart, red-orange pomegranate molasses. A nice accompaniment is grilled green and red bell pepper squares, skewered separately and grilled al dente (about 10 minutes).
Note: Be sure to marinate the meat no longer than an hour or the marinade will overwhelm it.
Marinade
4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
4 tablespoons white wine
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
¼ teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground sumac
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1½ pounds boneless country-style pork ribs, cut into 1½- to 2-inch cubes
Combine the ingredients for the marinade in a dish large enough to hold the pork cubes in one packed layer. Add the cubes and toss to coat. Set aside in the refrigerator to marinate for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium high. String the pork onto skewers, reserving the marinade. Grill the kebabs over indirect heat, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times, until nicely charred on the outside and no longer pink in the center. Transfer to a serving platter and let sit for 5 minutes for the juices to settle.
While the kebabs rest, reduce the marinade in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until thick and bubbly, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve the kebabs with the reduced marinade on the side.
Serves 8
In a variation on the Armenian theme of pairing lamb with mint and lemon, champagne vinegar replaces the citrus, and sumac adds its woodsy astringency to the marinade. It’s a delightful dish for any special occasion when the weather allows grilling.
¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves
½ teaspoon ground sumac
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
¼ cup champagne vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 leg of lamb, butterflied
Combine all the ingredients except the lamb in a dish large enough to hold the lamb spread out. Add the lamb and turn to coat. Set aside in the refrigerator to marinate at least 6 hours or up to overnight, turning once. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium high.
Lift the lamb out of the marinade, reserving the marinade for basting, and place on the grill rack directly over the heat. Grill, turning and basting every 5 minutes or so, until medium rare, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let sit in a warm place for 10 minutes for the juices to settle. Slice and serve.
Serves 4 to 6
Braising lamb shanks with wine and fennel is a California-Armenian innovation inspired by my exuberant backyard stand of fennel, which has taken over a corner of the garden. I let it grow because I enjoy the anise swallowtail butterflies it attracts to lay their eggs on fennel plants; I cut its flowers for the house, and I use its fronds and bulbs in salads, soups, and this lamb and white bean braise.
1½ cups dried white beans, such as Great Northerns, white cannelini, or flageolets
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 small (¾ to 1 pound) lamb shanks, cracked in half
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 carrot, finely chopped
½ large fennel bulb, finely chopped
2 cups chopped fresh or canned tomatoes
1 bay leaf
1 cup white wine
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 teaspoon hot paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper or ⅛ teaspoon cayenne
¼ cup chopped fennel fronds or fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
To prepare the beans, soak them overnight. Or, place them in a pot with water to cover, bring to a boil over high heat, turn off the heat, and let sit 1 hour.
In a heavy pot large enough to hold the shanks in one packed layer (use two pots if necessary), heat the oil over medium-high heat. In uncrowded batches, brown the shanks all around, then transfer them to a plate. Set aside.
Stir the garlic, carrot, and fennel into the pot, then add the tomatoes, bay leaf, wine, broth, paprika, salt, and Aleppo pepper and stir to mix. Return the lamb and collected juices to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium, cover the pot, and cook for 45 minutes.
Drain the beans and stir them into the lamb. Cover again and continue cooking for 1½ hours, until the beans are tender and the lamb is falling away from the bone. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.
To serve, remove the bay leaf and transfer the lamb, beans, vegetables, and juices to a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle the chopped fennel fronds over the top and serve.
Serves 6
All around the Mediterranean and north to the Caucasus, lamb is paired with green beans and tomatoes in a rustic potage that serves as filling, but special, family fare. Fasulya was certain to appear on the table a few days after a leg of lamb, usually as shish kebab, was on the menu because the bones and trim provided material for the broth. Lamb neck or bone-in lamb stew meat substitute perfectly for the leg trim, and I prefer those cuts to boneless lamb stew meat because they’re more tender and also because they reflect the nature of the dish as I had it growing up—an economical and tasty way to employ the bone and trim from a leg of lamb. The green beans are cooked all the way through until soft, not al dente or squeaky, but for the best flavor, they should be fresh and young to start with, or ones you’ve fresh-frozen yourself from the garden or farmers’ market. Pilaf and yogurt with cucumber are must-have accompaniments.
Note: Fasulya can also be made vegetarian. Omit the meat and cook the stew for 30 to 45 minutes only. For vegetable variation ideas, see the box following recipe.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 pounds bone-in lamb stew meat
1 medium yellow or white onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 large fresh tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or 2 cups canned tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2–3 cups water
1 pound fresh haricots verts, stems pinched off, beans left whole, or young, regular green beans, stems pinched off, beans halved lengthwise, then crosswise
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving
Basic Rice Pilaf (page 250), warm, for serving
Yogurt with Cucumber (page 21), for serving
Heat the oil in a large pot or pressure cooker over medium-high heat. In batches, so as not to crowd the pieces, brown the lamb all around, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and continue with another batch until all the pieces are browned. Return the lamb and collected juices to the pot and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until the onion is wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, oregano, salt, Aleppo pepper, tomato paste, and 2 cups of water if pressure-cooking or 3 cups of water if simmering.
To pressure cook: Add the green beans now, lock on the lid, and bring to pressure over high heat, about 5 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes.
To cook on the stove top: Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook for 1 hour, until the lamb is tender. Stir in the green beans and continue simmering, partially covered, for 30 minutes, until the meat is falling off the bones and the green beans are thoroughly tender.
Either way, remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes, or up to 1 hour, reheating if necessary.
To serve, ladle the stew into individual bowls, garnish with the parsley, and serve with the pilaf and yogurt with cucumber in separate side dishes.
LAMB AND VEGETABLE STEWS: AN ARMENIAN SPECIALTY
As well as green beans, many other vegetables frequently star in lamb stews. Try:
Cauliflower, in florets
Eggplant, in unpeeled 1-inch cubes
Zucchini, in ½-inch rounds
Okra, prepared as on page 225
Artichokes, baby ones, trimmed and halved
Leeks, white and light green parts, cut into 1-inch lengths
Serves 4 to 6
Spinach acts as both herb and vegetable, and Anaheim pepper, with its mild heat, adds punch to a favorite Armenian ragout of lamb and lentils. Unlike many ragouts that benefit from resting several hours, this one should be served soon after cooking. It becomes mushy and its fresh flavor and sparkly color fade over time.
2 tablespoons butter
2 pounds bone-in lamb stew meat
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 yellow or white onion, finely chopped
1 Anaheim chile pepper, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
2 cups water
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup French green lentils
1 bunch (about ¾ pound) spinach, including tender stems and roots, leaves cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips (6 packed cups)
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the lamb pieces with salt and pepper and brown them in uncrowded batches, about 4 minutes per batch. (Decrease the heat to medium if the butter starts to burn.) Transfer to a plate. Add the onion and chile pepper to the pot and cook until the onion is wilted, about 2 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the water and tomato paste. Stir to mix and bring to a boil. Return the lamb and collected juices to the pot, cover, and cook at a brisk simmer for 1 hour.
Add the lentils to the pot and stir to mix. Add the spinach and, without stirring, cover and continue simmering until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
To serve, reheat over medium heat, stir in the lemon juice, and serve hot.
Serves 6
I discovered the delightful combination of dried apricots and garlic many years ago at my Pig-by-the-Tail delicatessen, when it suddenly occurred to me one day to use them together as a stuffing for a boneless pork loin roast to slice and serve as a fresh cold cut. I think the flavor merger of apricot and garlic must have come out of some ancient taste, bred in my bone, which I rediscovered when preparing this book. Here it resurfaces in an elegant stew Armenians would more likely make with lamb, but, recalling that “new” discovery, I often make with pork.
1¼ pounds boneless lamb stew meat or country-style boneless pork ribs, cut into 1½-inch cubes
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup brandy
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
¾ teaspoon Aleppo pepper
3 cups water
24 dried apricot halves
12 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup cilantro leaves, for serving
In a bowl, toss the meat with the salt. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. In batches, so as not to crowd the pieces, brown the meat all around, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and continue until all the pieces are browned. After the last batch, return the meat and collected juices to the pot and add the brandy. Stir in the cumin, pepper, and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook for 1 hour, until the meat is almost tender.
Skim the liquid, then stir in the apricots and garlic. Continue simmering, covered, for 30 minutes, until the meat is fork tender. Stir in the lemon juice, sprinkle the cilantro over the top, and serve right away.
Serves 4
Moussaka, though mostly known as the famous Greek dish of eggplant layered with ground lamb or beef and béchamel, doesn’t always include eggplant. It might feature potato instead, moistened and made supple with a creamy yogurt béchamel sauce. It’s a wonderful small-family dish that, for a crowd, can easily be doubled or tripled and cooked in a larger dish.
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1½ pounds red, white, or Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed and sliced ¼ inch thick
Kosher salt
1 small yellow or white onion, finely chopped
½ pound ground lamb
2 small tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
¾ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups Yogurt Béchamel (page 27)
1 large egg
⅓ cup coarsely grated ricotta salata or Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. In batches, salt the potato slices and fry them, turning once, until just beginning to turn golden around the edges, about 3 minutes. Lift out the slices with kitchen tongs, letting excess oil drip back into the pan, and transfer to a plate.
When the last batch of potato slices is done, add the onion and lamb to the pan and sauté, stirring to break up the lamb chunks, until the lamb is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, parsley, dill, allspice, and pepper and stir to mix. Sauté, still over medium-high heat, until the mixture is fairly dry and crumbly, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
To assemble and cook the dish, arrange half of the potato slices in an overlapping layer in an 8 × 10-inch casserole dish. Spread the lamb mixture over the potatoes. Cover with the remaining potato slices in an overlapping layer. Whisk the egg into the béchamel and pour over the top. Sprinkle the cheese over all. Place in the oven and bake until golden on the top and slightly brown around the edges, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes. Cut into portions and serve warm.
Makes one 9 × 9-inch pie; serves 4 as an entrée
Adding the potato to this Armenian meat pie was my husband Rick’s idea. Being one who likes a well-rounded, hearty meal and loves casseroles, he thought the potato would add texture and richness. He was right. It’s a full-up casserole pie that makes a filling family meal at the end of a yeoman’s, or yeowoman’s, day. The filling can be used for many other purposes, such as filling individual boereks or, especially good, as stuffing for green bell pepper or tomato dolmas.
Filling
1 potato, red, white, or Yukon gold, scrubbed and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 tablespoon butter
½ pound lean ground lamb
1 medium yellow or white onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons pine nuts
¼ cup raisins
1 teaspoon finely chopped orange zest
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
Tiny pinch of cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons (½ stick) melted butter, for brushing the fillo
12 (8 × 13-inch) sheets fillo dough
To make the filling, place the potatoes in a small saucepan, add water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until the potatoes can be pierced but are still al dente, about 4 minutes. Drain in a colander and set aside.
Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the lamb and cook, using a fork to stir and break up the chunks, until crumbly and no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Add the onion, pine nuts, and raisins and continue cooking for 3 minutes, until the onion is well wilted. Add the zest, mint, allspice, cinnamon, salt, pepper, and potatoes and stir to mix. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg. Set aside to cool.
To make the pie, preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9 × 9-inch baking dish with a little of the melted butter.
Lay 2 fillo sheets in the bottom of the dish and brush the top sheet with butter. (The fillo sheets will edge up the sides of the dish.) Place 2 more sheets on top and brush with butter again. Top with 2 more sheets of fillo and brush with butter. Spread the filling over the fillo. Cover with 2 more sheets of fillo, brush with butter, then 2 more, brush with butter, then 2 more sheets. Finally, brush the top with butter.
Bake until golden and crispy, about 35 minutes. Cut into portions and serve warm.
Serves 6
In Armenian cuisine, no part of the lamb, from head to tail, goes uncooked. The lamb’s heart is a special delicacy I love for its rich flavor, lean meat, and firm texture that takes to many seasonings. The parsley sauce is a superb accompaniment that can also be used with grilled rabbit, sausage, lamb chops, and vegetables, such as zucchini, tomatoes, and potatoes.
Note: Lamb hearts, though not widely available, can be found in butcher stores that cater to the adventuresome cook.
Parsley Sauce
1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano
2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 lamb hearts (6 to 8 ounces each)
Lemon wedges, for garnish
To make the parsley sauce, mix together all the ingredients in a small bowl.
Slit the lamb hearts open, slicing down the center enough to butterfly them without cutting them all the way in half. Place them in a dish large enough to hold them opened out. Add ¼ cup of the parsley sauce, turn to coat, and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature, or up to several hours in the refrigerator.
When ready to cook, prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium high.
Place the hearts on the grill rack directly above the coals and cook, turning once, for 15 to 20 minutes, until medium rare.
Transfer the hearts to a serving platter and drizzle about ¼ cup of the remaining sauce over the top. Garnish with the lemon wedges and serve right away, with the remaining sauce on the side.