Metro Area

finished size: 90˝ × 90˝

This quilt uses all 75 blocks—25 each of 5˝ × 8˝, 8˝ × 8˝, and 5˝ × 14˝.

If you’re a quilter with a large fabric stash, making a color wheel quilt can be a fun way to compile scraps from past projects. For Metro Area, I started by selecting 25 different Kona Cotton solids. From there, I pulled coordinating monochromatic print fabric scraps that I contrasted with black, white, and gray prints.

Fabric Requirements

Yardages are based on fabric at least 42˝ wide.

4 yards neutral solid for sashing

8¼ yards for backing

¾ yard for binding

98˝ × 98˝ of batting

Cutting

NEUTRAL SOLID

Cut 1 piece 90½˝ × width of fabric. Subcut:
2 border strips 6½˝ × 90½˝ each
2 border strips 6½˝ × 78½˝ each
4 sashing strips 2½˝ × 78½˝ each

Cut 3 strips 14½˝ × width of fabric. Subcut:
20 sashing strips 2½˝ × 14½˝ each
25 sashing strips 1½˝ × 14½˝ each

Cut 1 strip 8½˝ × width of fabric. Subcut:
25 sashing strips 1½˝ × 8½˝ each

BACKING FABRIC

Cut 3 pieces 98˝ × width of fabric each.

BINDING FABRIC

Cut 10 strips 2½˝ × width of fabric each.

Make the Block Units

All seams are sewn with a ¼˝ seam allowance and pressed open.

1. Sort the 75 blocks into 25 sets, with each set including a 5˝ × 8˝ block, an 8˝ × 8˝ block, and a 5˝ × 14˝ block.

2. Divide the sorted blocks into 2 groups: a group of 13 sets to make 13 of block unit A, and a group of 12 sets to make 12 of block unit B.

Block Unit A

1. Beginning with a set of 3 blocks from the block unit A group, sew a 1½˝ × 8½˝ sashing strip to the top of the 5˝ × 8˝ block.

2. Sew the 8˝ × 8˝ block to the top of the block unit.

3. Sew a 1½˝ × 14½˝ sashing strip to the left side of the block unit.

4. Sew the 5˝ × 14˝ block to the left side of the block unit.

5. Repeat Steps 1–4 to create a total of 13 block units A. figures a & b

Block Unit B

1. Beginning with a set of 3 blocks from the block unit B group, sew a 1½˝ × 8½˝ sashing strip to the bottom of the 5˝ × 8˝ block.

2. Sew the 8˝ × 8˝ block to the bottom of the block unit.

3. Sew a 1½˝ × 14½˝ sashing strip to the right side of the block unit.

4. Sew the 5˝ × 14˝ block to the right side of the block unit.

5. Repeat Steps 1–4 to create a total of 12 block units B. figures c & d

Make the Quilt Top

1. Arrange the block units in 5 rows of 5 units each, alternating the block units A and B in a checkerboard pattern. Block unit A should be in each of the 4 corners.

2. Sew together the 5 block units in each row, sewing 2½˝ × 14½˝ sashing strips between the block units.

3. Sew together the 5 rows, sewing 2½˝ × 78½˝ sashing strips between the rows.

4. Sew a 6½˝ × 78½˝ border strip to each side of the quilt top.

5. Sew the 6½˝ × 90½˝ border strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top.

Make the Quilt Back

1. Trim away selvages. Sew together the 3 pieces along the 98˝ sides.

2. Trim the finished quilt back to 98˝ × 98˝.

NOTE

You can add interest to your quilt back by inserting a 16˝ × 98˝ strip between 2 backing pieces. The added strip can be pieced from scraps and/or extra blocks. If you do that, you’ll need only 5½ yards of fabric for the rest of the quilt back.

Finish the Quilt

Quilt as desired. Use the 2½˝ binding strips to make and sew the binding.

I finished this quilt by free-motion quilting a continuous-line design of meandering boxes using my home machine.