CHOCOLATE GANACHE CUPCAKES WITH BASIL BUTTERCREAM

I had my first taste of basil and chocolate almost two decades ago, out with friends at Lucia’s restaurant in Minneapolis. Our server recommended the chocolate cake paired with the basil ice cream, and the combination sounded so intriguing we decided to trust him. The bright blue of my shirt, the buzz of voices at tables surrounding us, the candles speckling the dimly lit room, and chocolate and basil devoured alternately bite by bite is forever etched in my mind. Over the years I’ve re-created those flavors in many applications, but this cupcake and buttercream pairing is by far my favorite. The basil flavor grows with intensity over time, and the creamy ganache centers are downright indulgent. makes 16 to 17 cupcakes, and about 4 cups of buttercream

GANACHE FILLING

4 ounces (113 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped

⅓ cup heavy cream

GANACHE CUPCAKES

3 ounces (85 g) bittersweet chocolate

½ cup freshly brewed coffee, hot

¼ cup buttermilk

¼ cup canola oil

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup (142 g) all-purpose flour

1 cup (198 g) sugar

¼ cup (25 g) Dutch process cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

BASIL BUTTERCREAM

1½ cups whole milk

½ cup heavy cream

1 cup packed basil leaves

1¾ cups (347 g) sugar

½ cup (71 g) all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

¾ pound (3 sticks; 339 g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into small pieces

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

3 to 4 drops green food coloring (optional)

FOR THE GANACHE FILLING: Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan, until it is simmering and just about to boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit for 5 minutes.

Remove the plastic wrap and whisk until the chocolate mixture is completely smooth. Place the bowl in the refrigerator until it is just chilled, about 20 minutes. Do not let it completely harden in the fridge.

FOR THE CUPCAKES: Adjust an oven rack to the middle position. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place liners in two standard 12-cup muffin tins, filling 17 of the cups.

Put the bittersweet chocolate in a small bowl. Pour the coffee over it and cover with a piece of plastic wrap. In a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk the buttermilk, canola oil, eggs, and vanilla.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt on low until combined. (If the cocoa powder is lumpy, you can sift it into the other ingredients.) With the mixer running on low, slowly add the buttermilk mixture. Increase the speed to medium and beat until combined, 20 to 30 seconds.

Whisk the chocolate and coffee until combined. With the mixer running on low, slowly pour the coffee mixture into the batter and mix until just combined. Using a spatula, give the batter a couple of turns to make sure it is fully mixed.

Scoop ¼ cup of batter into each cup of the prepared muffin tins. Remove the ganache from the fridge and place 1 rounded teaspoon in each muffin cup, on top of the batter, directly in the center.

Bake 14 to 17 minutes, until the cupcakes are set and firm to the touch.

Transfer the tin to a wire rack and let cool for about 15 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the pan and let cool completely on a wire rack before frosting. When cool, use an offset spatula to spread the top of each cupcake with a heaping layer of buttercream.

NOTE: Be sure not to fill the muffin cups too full or the batter will spill over the sides during baking.

FOR THE BASIL BUTTERCREAM: Combine the milk, heavy cream, and basil in a medium saucepan. Heat gently over medium heat, until just simmering; remove from the heat. Let cool and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Remove the basil leaves from the cream, squeezing any “juice” from the leaves into the cream.

In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk the sugar, flour, and salt. Add the cream mixture and stir together until combined. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a spatula, until the mixture comes to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat slightly, switch to a whisk, and whisk constantly until the mixture has thickened and resembles potato soup, 10 to 15 minutes. The mixture can easily burn on the bottom, so keep a close eye on it while it cooks.

Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk. Beat on high until the bowl cools down to room temperature, 7 to 9 minutes (alternately, you can skip beating and put the bowl in the refrigerator instead to cool the milk mixture to room temperature, 30 to 40 minutes. Then continue with directions and add butter to the mixture). Reduce the speed to low and add the butter, mixing until thoroughly incorporated. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and food coloring (if using) and continue mixing on low until combined. If the frosting is too soft, put the bowl in the refrigerator to chill slightly, about 10 minutes, and then beat again until it is light and creamy.

VARIATION

lavender b uttercream • Omit the basil and green food coloring. Add 1 tablespoon dried culinary lavender to the milk and heavy cream and continue with the recipe as directed. Add a few drops of purple food coloring if desired.