Every turn at Glacier Lake holds another sensational surprise!
GLACIER LAKE |
ELEVATION: 8200 ft, with about 3700 ft vertical gain
DISTANCE: 12 mi up, 25–28 mi round-trip
DURATION: 6–8 hours up, 4–5 hours down; 2 days minimum
DIFFICULTY: Very challenging. Mandatory camp-in, very long, never too steep, solitude, much terrain above tree line, cold with snow coverage early/late in season (spring into August and from October on), mosquitoes until autumn
TRIP REPORT: While the surrounding treks can be accomplished as long day hikes from the THs, this one is best suited as a multi-day camping trip unless you are a serious trail runner. The chilly, beautiful lake with a few little islands lies in a prodigious, rocky basin carved out by the last of the glaciers during the Pleistocene Epoch. You’ll have a front-row campsite from the banks of the water up to Glacier Peak and Eagle Cap. Unlike the Enchantments of Washington and other wilderness areas, Eagle Cap Wilderness within the Wallowa Mountains is a little more rustic providing no privy at camping areas. No pass required for the TH, and restrooms are present.
TRAILHEAD: Wallowa Lake TH. Take I-84 E from Portland to exit 261 (La Grande/Elgin), turn right on OR-82 E 70 mi (with a couple turns) to Joseph (watch your speed through town). Continue 6 mi into OR-351 S around Wallowa Lake, watching for wildlife; fork left in the woods (opposite Wallowa Lake State Park) 1 mi more to the end with a long pullout on the right opposite the trail before the turnaround (330 mi, 5–5½ hours from Portland).
ROUTE: Begin past the signage and free self-issue Wilderness Permit kiosk to an immediate juncture. Stay right (W) ¼ mi for West Fork Wallowa River Trail 1820 around the hydro-plant to another fork and continue left up the wide and well-trodden path shared with equestrians. The going is a bit steep and rocky ½ mi before undulating mildly upwards (slightly annoying with larger backpacks coming down) with great views through the trees and small clearings to the rugged mountains and ridges above on both sides. Hike S up the valley with the West Fork Wallowa River below as you pass boulder fields, tiny creeks, tons of flora, Ponderosa pine, fir, larch, and spruce. Rise up 2 switchbacks at less than 2½ mi from the TH and continue ½ mi through the thinning woods to a signed intersection.
To the right is the more crowded Ice Lake Trail 1808 that moves steeply around 5 mi up to Ice Lake where many camp and even climb Matterhorn or Sacajawea Peaks. Stay straight (S) instead on Trail 1820 past the sign with a typo (“Trail 1920”). It’s more than 3¼ mi of easy walking to the next major intersection in Six Mile Meadow (Lakes Basin Trail 1810). On the way to Six Mile Meadow you’ll pass predominant Craig Mountain towering up to the right and cross nearly a couple dozen more petite creeks and seepages rolling along the dusty, gentle, wide trail to the juncture in the woods. From there some folks hike about 6½ mi W up Lakes Basin Trail past several subalpine lakes within the core of the Lakes Basin to Glacier Lake Trail 1806 at the isthmus on Moccasin Lake.
Every turn at Glacier Lake holds another sensational surprise!
Continue straight (S) instead on West Fork Wallowa River Trail 1820 for 2¼ mi to the next junction. You will enjoy more sun than trees as you cross a couple small creeks on the narrower path, then head a bit steeper at times up the left side of the meadow through a clearing between forest groves. Enjoy views in all directions including Cusick Mountain at the S end of the valley and the rocky W face of nearby Sentinel Peak up to the left (SE). The sometimes-rocky trail heads up 2 switchbacks to a signless junction in a steep, rocky, and dry gully with a cairn present. Instead of switching back left stay straight 15 ft across the rocky bed and continue to traverse S back into the trees on Trail 1820 with wildflowers popping up everywhere August into September.
After crossing the rocky bed and hiking into the trees, you will round a turn left in about ¼ mi. This brings you into a scenic, narrow chasm with the river just to the right of Trail 1820 below. The hike morphs into a rather wild and spectacular alpine setting for the remainder up to Glacier Lake and beyond! Easily stroll ½ mi through the center of the next widening valley S with imposing granite cliffs above. Walk past white rock, boulders, and wildflowers, then rock hop or cross logs over the river at about 6800 ft (difficult earlier in the summer). See the long cascade coming down as you climb 4 switchbacks steeper to the right of it (with some decent rock formations). Turn right (W) around the corner easier and down a bit to the shallow and emerald Frazier Lake (10 mi from the TH). There are a few flat areas to camp for those who have had enough with carrying a heavier pack for one day.
About ¼ mi past Frazier Lake (careful not to step on baby frogs), you come upon a fork with a faded signpost within a pile of rocks. To the left is the rest of Trail 1808 up steeply to Little Frazier Lake and then Hawkins Pass. Hike right (NW) instead 2 mi more, now on Glacier Lake Trail 1806 to Glacier Lake. Look back to see Frazier Lake and notice a long, narrow, deeper blue lake tucked in behind Frazier Lake against the steep mountain. Head up a switchback, a turn, and 2 more switchbacks through boulder fields as the route becomes a bit steeper NW up the right side of the river in the next grand valley. There are virtually no trees for shade or protection including at the large lake (the few pines there drip sap at times). See Oregon’s Glacier Peak between the mountains, then Eagle Cap as well, before you reach the top of the widening valley. The last ½ mi or so is relatively easier than below as you turn left (WSW) through the rocks and scree more narrowly to the outlet of Glacier Lake (more than 12¼ mi from the TH).
From the lake, Trail 1806 continues ¾ mi and a few hundred feet N up to Glacier Pass, then steadily steeply 2¾ mi NW down directly to the isthmus at Moccasin Lake in the Lakes Basin. Camping areas are located along the main trail as you continue right, around the lake dotted with a few small islands. Smaller paths head to the left in the boulder-filled meadow next to the lake before the trail steepens somewhat to the pass. Glacier Lake basin at the foot of Glacier Peak (with a sawtooth ridge on the right and glaciers under the summit to the lake) and Eagle Cap look great from the pass, but the other side is slightly underwhelming (outside of the glimpse of the Matterhorn) as the lakes in the core are out of sight until you continue down to the N.
Investigate the path at Glacier Lake on both sides of the outlet stream if you like and even take a frigid plunge into the striking blue-green water. Cross the outlet stream over logs without difficulty and follow the path SE for the perfect reflection of Glacier Peak and Eagle Cap’s summit. See the long cascade coming down under Eagle Cap as well as all the granite cliffs and steep scree slopes into the lake. More camp spots are plausible here. It’s also feasible to continue ½ mi around to discover another colorful, much smaller lake after scrambling the steep, wide rocky shelf 40 ft above the lake, then walking down a bit. Take advantage while camping to enjoy the sunset, the starry night’s light show, and then sunrise as well! Return by the same long route to Wallowa Lake TH.