Last of the ice and snow melting off Soda Peaks Lake in late May.
SODA PEAKS LAKE TO WEST SODA PEAK |
ELEVATION: 3750 ft at Soda Peaks Lake; 4550 ft on West Soda Peak; 4450 ft on East Soda Peak; with vertical gains of 2600 ft from Trapper Creek TH to Soda Peaks Lake (3400 ft with West Soda Peak); 2300 ft from Soda Peaks TH (2425 ft with West Soda Peak); and 1150 ft for both summits without visiting the lake from Soda Peaks TH
DISTANCE: 4½ mi to the lake from Trapper Creek TH, 9½ mi round-trip; 5¾ mi to West Soda Peak, 11½ mi round-trip; 2¼ mi to the lake from Soda Peaks TH, 4½ mi round-trip (5 mi round-trip with West Soda Peak); 3½ mi round-trip to both summits without the lake from Soda Peaks TH
DURATION: 3 hours to the lake from Trapper Creek TH, 5–6 hours round-trip with short breaks; 4 hours to West Soda Peak, 6–8 hours round-trip; 3–4 hours round-trip with both summits and the lake from Soda Peaks TH (2 hours round-trip without the lake)
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous. Many steep switchbacks from Trapper Creek TH, wide, tacky and smooth trail with pine needles, decent signage; brief, but ups/downs to lake from Soda Peaks TH; steep but straightforward bushwhack last ¼ mi to peaks; noticeable absence of crowds
TRIP REPORT: Visit the highest point (or both summits) of an old volcano crater and/or a beautiful little subalpine lake in the Trapper Creek Wilderness. The Soda Peaks TH with its longer and slightly more difficult drive but much shorter hike (with a few options) is listed below. But the super easygoing drive and hike from Trapper Creek (lower) TH with abundant exercise through a dreamlike ancient forest to Soda Peaks Lake is described first. And truthfully it’s just fun to say Soda Peaks Lake! Northwest Forest Pass required only at Trapper Creek TH, and a vault toilet is present only at the lower TH as well.
TRAILHEAD: Trapper Creek TH (1150 ft) or Soda Peaks TH (3675 ft). For Trapper Creek (lower) TH, take I-84 E from Portland to exit 44 (Cascade Locks), continue under Bridge of the Gods and turn right up the circle to cross over it into Washington after paying the toll, turn right on WA-14 E 5¾ mi, turn left (N) through Carson on Wind River Road (FR-30, see next paragraph for Soda Peaks TH) 14 mi NW (¼ mi past National Fish Hatchery), stay straight on Mineral Springs Road less than ½ mi, turn right on Little Soda Springs Road (FR-5401) over gravel more than ¼ mi to the end at a large dirt parking circle for Trapper Creek Wilderness.
For Soda Peaks (upper) TH, take Wind River Road 8½ mi NW, turn left on Hemlock Road ¼ mi, turn right on Szydlo Road 3½ mi into one lane (FR-54) at least 2½ mi, stay right at fork (left is gravel) 6¾ mi roughly paved (with ¼ mi washboard gravel) to a three-way intersection. Turn right 50 ft into gravel to the small pullout on the left opposite the overgrown trail before the old green gate (around 66 mi, less than 2 hours from Portland).
ROUTE: From the Trapper Creek (lower) TH, begin N past the signs (free self-issue Wilderness Permit) to an immediate juncture, staying left on Trapper Creek Trail 192 almost 2 mi heading WNW before you cross Trapper Creek over a very solid bridge that may still smell of fresh cut wood. In between, the wide smooth trail ambles up and down minimally with some massive Douglas fir, hemlock, and cedar. The lively forest floor with huckleberry, Oregon grape, and other low flora keeps your eyes and senses stimulated throughout the old growth woods.
Less than a mile from the juncture is Observation Peak Trail 132 taking off to the right. Continue straight on Trapper Creek Trail 192 crossing a creek without difficulty and contour up where the views open up slightly before reaching a larger creek, this one with a flat log to cross over to the next immediate intersection. Turn hard left (S) on Trail 133 by the big sign next to the creek for Soda Peaks Lake and walk down past moss-covered fallen trees through the emerald forest more than ¼ mi to the bridge over Trapper Creek (less than 1 hour from the TH).
Just to the left of the bridge and creek heading back SE is an optional bailout or return loop route on Mineral Springs Road (FR-5401, partially overgrown to begin). It’s ¼ mi shorter, wide, flat, gravel, less intense, and filled with private rental cabins on Trapper Creek until the big orange gate blocking the road a hundred yards or so from the main TH.
To bypass the optional bailout and continue on to the lake or summits, follow Trail 133 past the Trapper Creek footbridge easily for ¼ mi S before the composure of the day’s leisurely pace changes abruptly at the first switchback marked by a huge Doug fir blocking any other would-be trails. Hike steeply (but thankfully not too agonizingly) more than a mile W for 16 switchbacks before you reach a high spot on the ridgetop. Traverse easier slightly below the ridgeline on the left (S) and then back to the ridge again seeing Mount Hood along the way.
After walking down to a saddle begin to climb steeper up 16 more switchbacks. See Observation Peak through the big trees to the right (E), then West Soda Peak (W) after crossing the ridge on a traverse S around a rocky section. Continue back to the ridge for an easier time. Begin to ascend steeper again traversing the right side of the ridge crest the final ¾ mi W to the lake with a couple longer switchbacks along the way.
Soda Peaks Lake can be explored on both sides of the big “no camping” sign near the lake’s outlet from thin bushwhack paths. Large trees nearly surround Soda Peaks Lake providing little more view than of the small, clear lake itself, usually stocked with brook trout. One exception is the large scree field left (S) of the lake under East Soda Peak that can be ascended a hundred vertical feet or so, with no trail, to a truncated shot of nearby Mount St. Helens and also Mount Adams and Mount Rainier on a clear day! Return the same way or continue to the high ridge from the main trail or even West Soda Peak for the best views all day.
To continue to the high ridge for the summits, cross the stream from the outlet N of Soda Peaks Lake at a wider expanse over branches and where possible, and continue ¾ mi up the solid trail to the ridge and saddle between peaks. Walk across a slide path en route, and then ascend a couple steeper switchbacks near the saddle. Snow melts off slowly on this section and the lake (sometimes into late June or even July). If it’s icy it will be tough to cross the slide path and stay near the trail with the steep pitch. From the high ridge right to West Soda Peak lingering snow dissipates quickly. See the end of this hike for the description left to East Soda Peak. Turn right (NW) up the ridge saddle (4300 ft); remember the switchback, as on the return you will turn sharply left here to go back down to the lake. You can see Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier, Goat Rocks, and Mount Hood through the trees from near the saddle or above.
In more than ¼ mi break off from the trail as it begins to descend left (at a sign for Trapper Creek Wilderness posted high on a tree) around a mile NW to Soda Peaks TH. The hidden route to West Soda Peak begins only about 6 ft left (S) of the ridgeline (with views down to Soda Peaks Lake and East Soda Peak). For the summit, bushwhack to the right off the main trail and straight up the ridgeline or slightly left of it passing over larger trees and debris. Climb past smaller pines into a very steep grassy meadow dotted with wildflowers and great shots of Mount Adams, Soda Peaks Lake, East Soda Peak, and others. Work up to the top left of the meadow and return to the woods up a steep elk path a bit easier using route-finding skills to the nearby tree-covered tiny peak with only a few vistas discernible through the trees. See below for the less-traveled East Soda Peak, or return the same way past the lake to Trapper Creek TH.
From Soda Peaks (upper) TH at the pullout before the gate, take the path across the road 50 ft past brush to a free self-issue Wilderness Permit kiosk with a map. Then continue S on Soda Peaks Lake Trail 133. The path widens nicely through large cedars and then becomes a bit overgrown again near the W ridge of Soda Peaks at less than ½ mi from the TH. Drop down left a few feet over the widening trail then work steeper up through the beautiful forest (with only occasional looks out) to the ridge again. Hike fairly steeply up the narrowing ridge crest over a few tree roots and rocks and then traverse E under West Soda Peak. Head up steadily across a scree field and through the woods before easing to the high ridge just E of West Soda Peak (around 1 mi from the TH). See tree-covered East Soda Peak above Soda Peaks Lake and much more.
For West Soda Peak begin about 6 ft left (S) of the ridge and follow the brief description above, but to get more out of the hike feel free to visit the lake and/or East Soda Peak first and finish with West Soda Peak if coming from Soda Peaks TH. For these continue down the high ridge between summits about ¼ mi without difficulty to a vague juncture with a rock cairn against a tree in the middle of the trail and stacked old logs across the trail. Turn left down the switchback with a couple more switchbacks ¾ mi down 500 ft to Soda Peaks Lake. Check out views from the large scree field S of the lake (see above) and return the same way.
For East Soda Peak (more than ¼ mi away) from the vague juncture at the saddle on the high ridge (4300 ft) continue E past small trees on the overgrown ridge section as the path reveals itself quickly and opens up pleasantly with little vegetation. There are many small logs, branches, and sticks to cross without any trouble as the path disappears. Bushwhack up the left side of the wide ridgeline or wherever possible as the route steepens somewhat past a small bump with many good-sized mossy cedars to the rounded large summit area. There you find fewer trees, not enough to see views out from, but just enough to create a cool echo effect with your voice; try it! Return SW down to the juncture on the high ridge (4300 ft) and continue to Trapper Creek TH or the much closer Soda Peaks TH.