Unearthly scenery day hiking Mount Hood toward Illumination Saddle.
ILLUMINATION SADDLE |
ELEVATION: 9300 ft, with 3400 ft vertical gain
DISTANCE: 3½ mi up, 7 mi round-trip with or without a loop; 3 mi round-trip alternate Mountaineer Trail loop (see Trip Report) without Illumination Saddle
DURATION: 3–3½ hours up, 5–6 hours round-trip with breaks; 1½–2 hours round-trip alternate loop
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous. Route-finding, rocky, narrow, multiple paths, possible rocks falling from above Illumination Saddle, crossing snowfields, glissading, traction devices helpful but not necessary most times in summer, crevasses not likely but not unheard of late fall on Zigzag Glacier
TRIP REPORT: Illumination Rock, a prominent sub-summit of Mount Hood, is known as one of the most difficult summits to climb in all the Pacific Northwest. Illumination Saddle lies just E of the prominent massif between the Reid and Zigzag Glaciers on Mount Hood’s SW side and is very attainable most times of the year, the late summer being best for most. For cross-country or other winter activities without using the ski area you will be directed left (W) of Timberline Lodge and Ski Area up the Mountaineer Trail utilizing part of the loop described below. A much easier 3 mi loop is also possible using the clues below with Mountaineer Trail 798 and leaving/finding it at about 6900 ft near the bottom of the Palmer Lift.
Unearthly scenery day hiking Mount Hood toward Illumination Saddle.
For an even easier day, pay $18 round-trip to ride the Magic Mile chairlift (from June to Labor Day) up and down after investigating the area. You can also walk down a myriad of trail options back to the lodge. Sno-Park Pass required in winter. No pass required in summer, and restrooms are located inside the lower building at Timberline Lodge 50 ft to the right.
TRAILHEAD: Timberline Lodge. See hike 37 for directions.
ROUTE: Begin from the huge parking lot and proceed between lodge buildings onto the paved trail that moves right of the upper building, or simply walk steeply from the lot up the path leading to railroad tie steps past the welcome sign to meet the paved trail. Walk a hundred yards farther N to the first intersection at Timberline Trail 600 (sharing a stretch with PCT 2000). This is the end of the little counterclockwise loop with Mountaineer Trail 798 (½ mi W on Trail 600/2000).
Continue straight up the paved path instead (in summer) briefly to the end to catch the main gravel trail left of the maintenance area. One option up the mountain is a steeper and slightly briefer path that follows the long ditch and gully (avoid active ski runs) to the right to meet the service road higher or at Silcox Hut. If you take the main dusty, gravel trail, it becomes a wide ski service road under the Magic Mile chairlift at only ½ mi from the TH. See Mount Jefferson and Three Sisters S, and Mount Hood Skibowl (Tom Dick and Harry Mountain) off the SW flank of Mount Hood. Wind up steadily under the lift a half-dozen more turns and walk between chairlift structures at 1½ mi from the TH. The Silcox Warming Hut (closed to general public) is down to the right. Avoid any active ski runs (E of the chairlifts in summer) as the area is known to stay open through Labor Day most years.
Follow the cairns on the steep hillside straight ahead N for another mile with a thin trail over the boulder-strewn slope just W of the Palmer Lift. Arrive at a large cairn with an orange-tipped pole near the top of the chairlift you’ve been paralleling. You will rise between long snow and rock-filled gullies and finish up to the cairn near the Palmer Glacier.
Begin an upward traverse NW a mile toward Illumination Saddle and the pinnacle (visible the entire hike), tackling the bulk of the steepness early on through semiloose rock and pumice. Traverse somewhat easier to the saddle after crossing several snowfields carefully on Zigzag Glacier including a possibly steeper one where you should pay attention the last few feet to the saddle. Traction devices are helpful even in late summer, while snowshoes, skis, crampons, and ice axe are not required unless it’s spring, winter, or icy. Always be aware of the avalanche danger in winter as well as skiers and snowboarders descending from above.
In summer, from the saddle, you can literally hear the basalt crumbling and falling down from the sheer sides of Illumination Rock and from Mount Hood even with no one else climbing in the region. The 360-degree view is one of the overall best from the slopes of the volcano. See Mount St. Helens N over the top of Yocum Ridge above the beautiful Reid Glacier and Leuthold Couloir. The wild aspect of Mount Hood from this angle has you looking straight up NE toward the summit and all that lies in between like the Hot Rocks, the Hogsback (below the Bergschrund), Crater Rock, the Devil’s Kitchen (with active fumaroles occasionally bringing the smell of sulfur or rotten eggs down to the ski areas), the Pearly Gates, and the colorful Steel Cliff to round out the panorama.
Closing in on Illumination Rock with the saddle just right.
On the return, you may be able to ski or glissade part of the way. Just don’t begin too soon down Zigzag Glacier or you’ll end up near the colossal cliffs at Mississippi Head above Zigzag Canyon. Closer to the Palmer Lift, make your way down Mountaineer Trail 798 or long snowy gullies. Stay right (W) of the lower chairlifts, including the one under Palmer Lift (Magic Mile) while keeping it in sight along the ski area boundary signs (safely away from any skiers, snow cats, and snowmobiles). Then stay on the solid but rocky Mountaineer Trail down little rises on the open slope for the remainder of the enjoyable loop variation SSW to the Trail 600/2000 intersection. Turn left (E) on Timberline Trail 600 and traverse by meadows with wildflowers including lupine, aster, and paintbrush ½ mi to the end of the loop above Timberline Lodge. Turn right to finish down the paved trail to your vehicle.