Scallion Skillet Pancakes

MAKES 8 PANCAKES

I use this bread—a cross between Indian paratha, potato pancakes, and Chinese scallion bread—to hold pork the way a pancake holds Peking duck, or a tortilla makes a taco. For the Whole Pig Roast feast, multiply this recipe by ten. And if you are overwhelmed by the number you need to make, substitute or supplement with Indian paratha and/or flour tortillas.

11/4 pounds russet POTATOES, peeled and quartered

2 teaspoons KOSHER SALT, plus more for the boiling water

2 cups whole wheat FLOUR, plus more for dusting

3/4 cup finely chopped SCALLIONS (green part only)

1 tablespoon SAFFLOWER OIL (or another neutral-flavored oil), plus more for brushing

2 SERRANO CHILES, halved, seeded, and minced

2 teaspoons dried THYME

1/4 teaspoon ground CUMIN

Put the potatoes in a pot with water to cover. Add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer the potatoes until they’re tender when pierced with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes; transfer them to a large bowl and mash them with a potato masher. Add the flour, scallions, oil, serrano chiles, thyme, cumin, and the 2 teaspoons ofsalt. Using your hands, mix the ingredients together until you have a sandy texture. Make a well in the center of the dough and gradually add enough water to make a smooth, pliable dough (2 to 4 tablespoons). Cover the bowl with a wet cloth and set it aside at room temperature for 20 minutes for the dough to rest.

Divide the dough into eight equal portions and roll each into a ball. Dust your work surface with flour. Working one at a time, roll each ball into an 8-inch circle. Stack the circles as you go, with parchment paper in between. If you’re making a large quantity, stack the rounds on 2 parchment paper–lined baking sheets, separating each layer with a sheet of parchment. Cover the baking sheets with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you’re ready to cook them or for up to 1 day.

Heat a cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat for about 2 minutes, until hot. Put one pancake in the skillet (more on the griddle) and cook until the underside begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancake, brush the browned side with oil, and cook for another minute. Flip the pancake again and brush the first side with oil. Continue flipping the pancake a few times to prevent the bread from burning, until both sides are golden brown, about 4 minutes total.

As the pancakes are done, wrap them in stacks in a clean dish towel and store them in a cooler. Or put them in a 200°F oven to stay warm until you’re ready to serve them.

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