FEEDS 8 TO 10
In Spain, I often saw leeks cooked over an open fire and then wrapped in newspaper. Wrapping them causes the leeks to steam from their own heat, which gives them a nice buttery texture on the inside. When I cook leeks this way, I often just unwrap them and serve them directly on the newspaper they were steamed in. The key to making leeks this way is to really char them. This gives them a nice smoky flavor and ensures they’re cooked through. Don’t worry if the outsides get too charred to eat; you peel away the blackened layers to reveal the smoky tender insides.
Use small leeks (sometimes referred to as “French leeks”) if you can find them. If all you can find is big leeks, cut them in half lengthwise.
3 pounds LEEKS, roots trimmed, halved lengthwise if large, and cut to about 12 inches long
OLIVE OIL, for brushing the leeks
KOSHER SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER
Brush the leeks liberally with oil and season them with salt and pepper. Place the leeks on the griddle and cook, turning them from time to time, until they are charred on the outside and tender inside, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the leeks from the griddle and immediately wrap them in several layers of newspaper for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour. Let the leeks steam in the paper.
Unwrap the leeks and transfer them to a platter, or serve them on the paper.