FEEDS 10 OR MORE
This is the first seasonal condiment that I put on the menu every spring at the first sign of spring onions and green garlic in the farmers’ market. I added dates to this version because they reflect Israel and Southern California; I also like the sweetness in contrast to the rich flavor of the lamb.
1/4 cup OLIVE OIL, plus more as needed
2 large or 3 medium LEEKS (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced and rinsed thoroughly (about 3 cups)
KOSHER SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER
2 stems GREEN GARLIC, thinly sliced on the bias (about 1/2 cup), or 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 cup LEMON MOSTO (below) or lemon-infused olive oil
1 bunch SPRING ONIONS OR SCALLIONS, thinly sliced on the bias (about 11/2 cups)
8 pitted DATES (preferably Medjool), chopped
Juice of 1 LEMON (about 1/4 cup)
Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat until it slides easily in the pan, about 2 minutes. Add the leeks, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook until soft, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent them from browning. Stir in the garlic and continue to cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the leeks and garlic are soft and translucent. Add the lemon mosto, spring onions, dates, lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon pepper, and 3/4 teaspoon salt and stir to combine. Turn off the heat and let the compote rest for about 20 minutes to allow the flavor to come together. Add more salt or pepper to taste.
The finished compote should be a loose, spoonable consistency; if it is too thick, add more olive oil. Serve at room temperature. This compote can be made up to 24 hours in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator; bring to room temperature before serving.
LEMON MOSTO
Lemon mosto is a lemon-flavored olive oil similar to lemon-infused olive oil. To make mosto, whole lemons are pressed along with the olives, so the true essence of lemons really comes through, whereas lemon-infused oil has lemon flavor added to it. After the processes of settlement, maturation, and refinement of extra virgin olive oil “Mosto” is born. Lemon mosto is the unfiltered oil resulting from the first raw press that is done along with the addition of lemons. You can find lemon musto at specialty food stores, particularly those that specialize in Italian imports. If you can’t find it, a quality lemon-infused olive oil will work. When shopping for lemon-infused oil, look for one that contains olive oil and lemon—nothing else. Poor-quality lemon oils taste synthetic.