Mac ’n’ Cheese with Smoked Ham Hocks and Fresno Chiles

FEEDS 8 TO 10

This grown-up mac ’n’ cheese has been on the menu at Ford’s Filling Station since we opened. Our customers love it. Pureed carrots add a bit of sweetness and a nice color; roasted Fresno chiles pack some heat; and grown-ups can appreciate the smoked ham hock meat. If you’re making it for kids, eliminate the chiles. (They won’t notice the carrots.) I boil the ham hock for 2 hours, but if you don’t want to wait that long, you can skip it, or add about 1/4 pound bacon, cooked and roughly chopped instead. Use a quality aged sharp cheddar.

1 smoked HAM HOCK

6 FRESNO CHILES

1/2 cup fresh BREADCRUMBS

1 teaspoon KOSHER SALT, plus more for the pasta water

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground BLACK PEPPER

1 pound ELBOW MACARONI

3/4 pound CARROTS, peeled and thinly sliced into rounds

1 quart WHOLE MILK

51/3 tablespoons (2/3 stick) unsalted BUTTER

1/4 cup all-purpose FLOUR

1 cup shredded sharp CHEDDAR CHEESE (about 4 ounces)

Put the ham hock in a saucepan, add enough water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil the hock for 2 hours, adding more water if necessary to keep it covered. Drain and set the ham hock aside until cool enough to handle. Remove the meat from the bone and discard the skin, bone, and fat. Roughly chop the meat. Discard the cooking water.

Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Broil the chiles on a baking sheet, turning them occasionally, until they’re charred all over. Remove the chiles from the broiler and reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Transfer the chiles to a plastic bag and close the bag to steam them for at least 5 minutes. Rub off and discard the skins. Slit the chiles and discard the stems and seeds. Mince the chiles.

Spread the breadcrumbs on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes, until golden. Season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper and set aside. If you’ll be serving the mac ’n’ cheese as soon as it’s assembled, leave the oven on; if you’re making it ahead, it’s okay to turn it off now.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water. Add the pasta and cook it for 2 minutes longer than the time indicated on the box. (This is grown-up kid food, not an al dente dish.) Drain the pasta and set it aside.

Put the carrots in a saucepan, cover with water, and boil until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Reserve 1/4 cup of the liquid and drain the carrots. Allow the carrots to cool slightly, then transfer them to a blender. Add 1 tablespoon of the reserved liquid and puree until smooth, adding the remaining liquid gradually as you puree. Season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and of the pepper.

Bring the milk to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium-high heat; reduce the heat and let the milk simmer until you’re ready to use it. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until it turns a light nutty color to make a light roux. Scrape the roux into the simmering milk, whisking constantly until no lumps remain and the sauce begins to thicken. Stir in the carrot puree. Slowly add the cheese, whisking all the while. Add the chopped hock meat, chiles, and pasta and stir to combine. Transfer the mac ’n’ cheese to a large baking dish or cast-iron skillet. You can prepare this dish to this point several hours in advance; cover with foil and keep at room temperature until you’re ready to bake it.

If you just made the mac ’n’ cheese and it’s still warm, sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top and bake the mac ’n’ cheese for 15 to 20 minutes, until the top is golden brown and crunchy. If you made the mac ’n’ cheese in advance, warm it in a 350°F oven for 40 minutes; sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top; and bake an additional 15 minutes, until the top is golden brown and crunchy.