FEEDS 8 TO 10
I love the tenderness of fresh shell beans. During August and September when shell beans first come into season, I come back to the restaurant from the farmers’ market with pounds and pounds of them. I prefer fresh shell beans to dried beans in salads and side dishes but if you can’t find them or they aren’t in season, use cooked dried beans or beans from a jar (not can) to make this salad
For the Tomatoes
2 pints small HEIRLOOM CHERRY TOMATOES, rinsed, drained, and stems removed
5 fresh THYME SPRIGS
3 BAY LEAVES
6 GARLIC CLOVES, lightly smashed
4 tablespoons OLIVE OIL
3/4 teaspoon KOSHER SALT
For the Beans
2 tablespoons OLIVE OIL
1 large YELLOW ONION, quartered
1 FENNEL BULB, trimmed and quartered
6 GARLIC CLOVES, smashed and roughly chopped
KOSHER SALT
21/2 cups shelled fresh CRANBERRY BEANS (about 21/2 pounds in the pod), or rinsed and drained jarred beans
About 1 quart CHICKEN STOCK vegetable stock, or water
3 fresh THYME SPRIGS
For the Salad
4 SCALLIONS (white and light green parts), thinly sliced on an extreme bias (about 1/2 cup)
1/3 cup extra virgin OLIVE OIL
3 tablespoons fresh LEMON JUICE
3 tablespoons WHITE WINE VINEGAR
2 tablespoons chopped fresh OREGANO LEAVES
2 tablespoons chopped fresh CHIVES
2 tablespoons chopped fresh TARRAGON LEAVES
1 teaspoon grated LEMON ZEST
KOSHER SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER
To prepare the tomatoes, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Put the tomatoes out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Add the thyme, bay leaves, and garlic. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil and sprinkle with the salt. Toss gently to coat the tomatoes with the seasonings. Roast the tomatoes for 1 hour, until they are shriveled but not bursting. Discard the bay leaves. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and let them cool on the baking sheet. Transfer them to a small bowl, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and toss gently.
To cook the beans, heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, fennel, and garlic; season with salt; and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to soften slightly. Add the beans and enough stock to cover the beans by 1 inch. Add the thyme and bring the stock to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the beans until tender but not bursting, about 35 minutes. (If you are using jarred beans, cook them over medium heat just until they are warmed through.) Turn off the heat and set the beans aside to cool in the liquid. Drain the beans, reserving the broth for another use; it makes a great addition to almost any soup. Spread the beans on a baking sheet. Pick out and discard the onion, fennel, garlic, and thyme, and transfer the beans to a large bowl. (If you want to cook the beans ahead of time, transfer the beans to an airtight container. Fill the container with the reserved cooking liquid, cover, and refrigerate. Bring the beans to room temperature before assembling the salad. Otherwise, proceed with the salad while the beans are still warm.)
To assemble the salad, combine the tomatoes, scallions, oil, lemon juice, vinegar, oregano, chives, tarragon, and lemon zest to the bowl with the beans. Season with salt and pepper and toss gently to distribute the ingredients. Serve at room temperature.