SHRIMP

Shrimp is unbeatable as a fast protein, because it goes from frozen to thawed in 20 minutes, and raw to cooked in just 5 minutes more. I use it in stir-fries, grain bowls, salads, and chopped up in frittatas. But I pay for this pleasure and convenience: Good-quality shrimp that has been caught in the wild or farmed ethically (here I’m referring to both environmental and human rights concerns) is expensive, and it can be hard to find. Domestic shrimp—I usually buy shrimp from the Gulf—is the shrimp I trust most; anything else is, to me, not worth it.

Shrimp with Herby White Beans and Tomatoes

Speedy, Serves 4

Frozen shrimp makes this the ultimate back-pocket dinner (with the shrimp in the freezer and a couple of cans in your pantry, you can make it with almost no notice). But this recipe also works with fillets of any delicate white fish, or even with a pound of mussels.

In a large skillet set over medium heat, warm the oil. When the oil is hot, add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until just softened and golden, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the salt, the pepper, and ¾ cups water. Increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the beans and garlic-herb sauce, and cook, stirring, until the beans are warmed through, 1 or 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt if needed.

Add the shrimp to the skillet, cover, and cook just until the shrimp are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Divide the stew between bowls, drizzle with a little more herb sauce, and serve with toast alongside.