10 
OREGANO, SUMMER SAVORY, SAGE, ROSEMARY, AND THYME
The Mediterranean herbs in this chapter are hardy; they are stiffer, stronger, and more concentrated than “soft” herbs such as parsley, dill, and mint. Hardy herbs contain less water than soft herbs and don’t bruise as easily when chopped. They should be chopped finely and used sparingly: too much in one mouthful can overpower a dish.
Sage and rosemary are used most frequently in the central Mediterranean region, whereas oregano, summer savory, and thyme have more of an eastern Mediterranean flavor. These herbs are often interchangeable and blend very well; in combination they create complex layers of flavor. They work on just about anything from fish to meat to vegetables, but there are perfect marriages: sage with squash or pork, oregano with tomato, rosemary with lamb, thyme with mushrooms or potato, and summer savory with olives.
OREGANO
Oregano, which means “joy of the mountain” in Greek, is a bold, savory, peppery perennial with round leaves that is native to the Mediterranean region, where it grows abundantly.
The flavor of rigani, or wild Greek oregano, which grows in the rocky hillsides, can vary greatly depending upon climate and soil conditions. In the United States, dried Greek oregano is sold in markets, but it has lost much of its wild, robust flavor. Oregano is used liberally in Mexican cooking, but Mexican oregano, a member of the Verbena family and not the Origanum family, is a shrub and has a very strong flavor, too strong for my taste.
A fresh oregano and basil combination is a familiar ingredient in pizza and pasta sauces here in the United States, mostly because it pairs so well with tomatoes. Oregano is also great with eggplant, zucchini, beef, lamb, pork, garlic, feta cheese, and other bold foods. In addition, I like to use it on fresh tomato salads, with fried green tomatoes baked with Parmesan cheese and tomato sauce, and with a bubbly casserole of shrimp and feta cheese.
SUMMER SAVORY
Summer savory is an annual herb with long, leggy stems and oval leaves. It’s better to cook with than its hardy, woody counterpart, winter savory, which is favored by gardeners for its full shape. Native to the Mediterranean, summer savory was introduced to England by the Romans, who thought its strong fragrance to be an aphrodisiac. Summer savory was one of the first herbs to be brought to America by the Pilgrims, and it is still a traditional ingredient in Thanksgiving stuffing.
Summer savory, which also can be used as a mild substitute for oregano, is wonderful in pickle brines and in salads, with tomatoes or in smooth green tomato soup. It’s also perfect with egg dishes, beans, lentils, and peas. Summer savory is sometimes sold as za’atar in Middle Eastern markets.
SAGE
Sage is a hardy perennial with wiry, greenish-purple stems that become woody as the plant ages. The pungent leaves are wide, silvery-green, and downy soft, and they smell fresh and almost piney. Sage tastes herbaceous and sharp with subtle eucalyptus undertones; it should be used with a careful hand so as not to overwhelm a dish. Its botanical name, salvia, is derived from the Latin salvere, which means “to save” or “to heal,” and the herb is still used medicinally, as it has been for millennia.
Sage is native to the northern Mediterranean coastal areas of southern Europe and it still grows wild on the hills of Dalmatia, the Croatian region on the Adriatic Sea that is famed for the quality of its sage.
There are hundreds of different varieties of sage, many used for garden decoration and fewer used for cooking. Garlic sage really tastes like garlic and is wonderful tossed with pasta. Pineapple sage is fun to dry and then steep in water; it makes a light and delicious chilled tea.
Because of its astringency, sage pairs well with heavy, fatty foods; it cuts right through pork, goose, and duck. I also like to combine sage with mushrooms and squash, add it to rich brie soup with fried oysters, and sprinkle it over eggplant, onions, dumplings, potatoes, beans, and peas. Fried sage leaves in butter is a great garnish for fish. Frying it softens the flavor, which will better suit fish.
ROSEMARY
Hardy rosemary is a sun-loving perennial that can grow upright or creep and spill over retaining walls. Both varieties have woody stems and leathery, needle-shaped leaves. Rosemary’s fragrance is piney, cooling, and slightly minty. Its flavor is astringent, woody, peppery, warming, and minty. It is a strong herb and, like sage, must be used carefully or in small amounts, because it can overwhelm other flavors in a dish.
Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region, and its botanical name means “dew of the sea.” It thrives in sandy, well-drained soil and misty, sea-spray–filled air.
Ancient Greek scholars believed that rosemary’s aroma improved their memory and helped keep their minds clear, and so they wore rosemary sprigs behind their ears. Rosemary’s association with memory, lovers’ fidelity, and remembrance has stayed with us through the ages, and this idea is succinctly captured in the Shakespeare’s Hamlet: “There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance; pray, love, remember.” On a personal note, I wore rosemary in my hair on my wedding day to remember my father, Gary Sortun.
Rosemary counters the richness in meats such as lamb, pork, and duck. It’s the perfect partner for garlic. The Italians love it, and often butchers will tie a strand of rosemary with cuts of lamb. Even though rosemary thrives in eastern Mediterranean countries, it is not used for cooking; cooks in the Middle East find the herb to be too overwhelming.
My favorite uses for rosemary are in breads, with roasted potatoes, and combined with garlic for lamb and rabbit dishes. I also use just a little to lift the fragrance from the walnuts and green olives in my Potato Risotto (page 294).
THYME
There are more than one hundred varieties of thyme, many of them hybrid garden plants that creep out between stone or brick. I prefer cooking with plain garden thyme and English thyme, as they are the most straightforward and savory. Lemon thyme is also wonderful because of its bright scent and lemon notes.
Thyme is a perennial that may vary widely in appearance depending its soil and climate. Generally, it is stiff and bushy with stalks that are covered by pairs of small, narrow, elliptical leaves. Its aroma is warm, spicy, and pungent. Thyme adds depth and warmth to dishes.
Thyme is indigenous to the Mediterranean region. The Egyptians used it in the embalming process. The word thyme derives form the Greek thymon, meaning “to fumigate,” and indeed the Greeks burned this herb during religious ceremonies.
The Armenians make tea with thyme, and the French use it to make bouquet garni: an aromatic package with bay leaf, parsley, and other herbs that flavors almost all French sauce and soup bases.
I use thyme more than any other herb because it adds warmth without overwhelming a dish. It’s great with chicken, meat loaf, bacon-rich soups, potatoes, corn, and in any kind of cooked bean preparation. It also pairs very nicely with fish recipes, such as Cod with Truffled Leek Sauce (page 289).
RECIPES WITH FRESH OREGANO, SUMMER SAVORY, SAGE, ROSEMARY, AND THYME
MELON AND TOMATO SALAD WİTH MOZZARELLA AND OREGANO
NOOKİE’S PİCKLES: GREEN TOMATO, TURNIP, CUCUMBER, AND PEAR VARİATİONS
BRİE SOUP WİTH FRİED OYSTERS AND SAGE
GREEN TOMATO SOUP WİTH SUMMER SAVORY
COD WİTH TRUFFLED LEEK SAUCE AND SWEET POTATER TOTS
POTATO RİSOTTO WİTH GREEN OLİVES, WALNUTS, AND ROSEMARY
MARİA’S SHRİMP SAGANAKİ FLAMBÉED WİTH OUZO
SAGE-RUBBED PORK WİTH RED RİCE AND BEANS
Melon and Tomato Salad with Mozzarella and Oregano
This very Mediterranean salad features sweet melon and acidic tomato in a divine combination with fresh oregano and lightly brined cheese. In Turkey, melon is eaten with salty feta as a classic summer mezze. In Greece, tomato and melon salads also feature feta, black olives, and fruity olive oil.
Melon and tomato are very similar in structure, texture, and even taste; melons are just more floral and sweet and balance out the more acidic tomato. This recipe is perfect in August, when you can buy melons and locally grown tomatoes at the farmers’ market. For this recipe, it’s crucial that the tomatoes and melons be at their best.
A delicate white wine such as a Frascati, from the area southeast of Rome would pair well with this dish.
SERVES 6 AS A SALAD COURSE 
1 small ripe cantaloupe
2 medium heirloom tomatoes or another good vine-ripened tomato variety, such as beefsteak
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh oregano leaves (2 to 3 sprigs)
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
2 balls buffalo-milk mozzarella (about 12 ounces total)
½ teaspoon Urfa chilies (optional)
½ crusty French baguette
1. Cut both ends off the cantaloupe so that it stands up on cutting surface without rolling. Using a sharp chef’s knife, trim off the skin, starting at the top and working around the middle towards the bottom, following the shape of the melon. Try to remove only the skin.
2. Cut the peeled melon in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a small spoon. Cut each half lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices. Cut each strip in half and then dice the melon into a ½- to 1/3-inch dice. Place the diced melon in a sieve over a medium mixing bowl to let the juice drain off, for about 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, dice the unpeeled tomatoes the same size as the melon by slicing them into rounds and then into strips and then into a dice.
4. Pour the melon juice into a glass and chill it, reserving it for drinking later.
5. Add the tomatoes to the sieve with the melon pieces and let them drain for about 5 minutes. Discard the tomato juice or reserve it for another use.
6. Place the tomatoes and melon into the medium mixing bowl and gently stir in the oregano, olive oil and vinegar. Season the salad with salt and pepper.
7. Cut each ball of mozzarella into 6 slices and arrange the pieces so that they slightly overlap on a serving platter. Season the cheese with salt and pepper.
8. Just before serving, place a heaping spoonful of chopped melon and tomato over each slice of mozzarella. Sprinkle with Urfa chilies and serve with crusty French bread.
Variation
Substitute 12 ounces of French sheep’s milk feta or barrel-aged cow’s milk Greek feta for the mozzarella. Slice the cheese into ¼- to 1/3-inch-thick slices. It’s okay if it crumbles a little bit.
Nookie’s Pickles: Green Tomato, Turnip, Cucumber, and Pear Variations
Nookie, who served as Oleana’s sous-chef for more than 4 years before moving to Spain in the late summer of 2005, grew up in a Jewish household in New York City, where his love for pickles began. When he was a good boy, the deli owners in his neighborhood let him fish a pickle out of their barrels for a treat.
Nookie brought his passion for pickles to Oleana, and started creating his signature condiments with the abundance of fresh vegetables we were lucky to get during peak harvest at my husband Chris’s farm. Nookie would make big batches of pickles that we served with grilled meats, Chicken and Walnut Pâté (page 146), and Spinach Falafel (page 185). In late fall and winter, when the farm was quiet, Nookie would pickle pears or turnips instead; in the spring, he’d use ramps or wild leeks. The staff got addicted to Nookie’s condiment specialty and altered the vegetables according to the seasons.
Pickles are a key condiment in Mediterranean cuisine; they’re eaten as snacks and with grilled lamb or beef. See the suggestions below for pickle-making in different seasons.
MAKES 2 QUARTS PICKLES
2 pounds vegetables (see suggestions below)
½ cup salt
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon brown mustard seed
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
½ cup whole garlic cloves, peeled and smashed (about 1 whole large head)
1 large bunch summer savory or fresh thyme, washed and roughly chopped
1. If you’re using cabbage, pears, onion, or green tomatoes: cut the vegetables into ½-inch wedges. If you’re using ramps or green garlic: leave them whole and wash them. If you’re using Brussels sprouts: split them in half. If you’re using turnips, carrots, or pumpkin: peel and slice them into ½-thick sticks. If you’re using beets: peel and cut them into ½-thick wedges. If you’re using cucumbers: leave them whole and follow the instructions for making cucumber pickles below.
2. In a large saucepan over high heat, combine 8 cups of water with the salt, vinegar, and all the herbs and spices and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Place the vegetables in a nonreactive glass or stainless steel bowl and pour the simmering brine over them. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and leave them at room temperature for 3 hours. You can also cover them with plastic wrap, but make sure to poke a hole in the wrap so that steam can escape. Refrigerate the pickles overnight. They will be ready to eat after 24 hours and will last up to 2 weeks.
Vegetable Suggestions
Winter: cabbage, turnips, beets, carrots, Brussels sprouts, pears
Spring: ramps or wild leeks, turnips, beets, green garlic (the first growth of mild garlic in the spring, which looks like a thin leek)
Summer: green or unripe tomatoes, turnips, onions, thick-skinned cucumbers such as lemon cucumbers or pickling cucumbers
Fall: pumpkin, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, beets, cauliflower
Making Cucumber Pickles
Select thick skinned, small cucumbers such as pickling cucumbers or lemon cucumbers. Boil the brine and simmer it as described in step 2 above. Cool the brine for 3 hours at room temperature before pouring it over the cucumbers. Let the brined cucumbers stand in the refrigerator, loosely covered, for 1 week; they will be “half-sours” at that point and they’re delicious. At the 1-week mark, pour off half the brine and add water to replace it. You can then keep the pickles, now considered “full sours,” for up to a month in the refrigerator.
Brie Soup with Fried Oysters and Sage
I’ve served this recipe at Oleana every New Year’s Eve, and it’s always a big hit. It’s not inspired by the Mediterranean, but rather by a New Orleans restaurateur named Anthony Uglesich.
When I went down to the Big Easy to visit my mother, who’s lived there for years, I would try to fit my days around a big lunch at Uglesich. The restaurant was housed in a rundown neighborhood next to the central business district, but it offered the best New Orleans–style food in the city.
At Uglesich, Anthony served an oyster brie soup that made me break my rule of serving only Mediterranean dishes at Oleana. This recipe is dedicated to Anthony and his wife Gail for the many great meals I’ve had with them. Anthony and Gail retired in the spring of 2005. You can check out the Uglesich Restaurant Cookbook for great recipes including Oyster Brie Soup.
Try pairing this soup with a rosé champagne (see page 357).
SERVES 8 AS A MAIN COURSE
For the Rich Veal Stock
5 pounds veal bones
¼ cup tomato paste
1 Spanish white onion, roughly chopped
2 large carrots, roughly chopped
1 rib celery, roughly chopped
1 head garlic, split in half horizontally, skins left on
For the Soup
1 ½ sticks butter
1 cup flour
10 cups rich veal stock
1 wheel brie (about 1 kilo or 2 pounds), trimmed of most of the rind
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
¼ cup brandy or cognac
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (about ¼ lemon)
Salt and pepper to taste
3 to 4 cups vegetable or canola oil for frying
¼ cup fine cornmeal or polenta
½ teaspoon paprika
32 to 40 freshly shucked oysters, drained well in a colander or sieve
8 whole sage leaves
To Make the Rich Veal Stock
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Place the veal bones in a heavy roasting pan and roast them for about an hour, until browned.
3. Add the tomato paste and chopped vegetables to the roasting pan, toss to combine, and continue roasting for 30 minutes.
4. Transfer the contents of the roasting pan to a large stockpot (that can hold 2 gallons) and fill it with 8 quarts of water. Bring this to a boil over high heat and skim off any foam that forms on the surface. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook for 5 to 6 hours, skimming fat from the surface every hour or so.
5. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve. Cool and refrigerate the stock for up to 3 days or freeze it for up to 1 month. Makes 1 gallon.
To Make the Soup
1. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter and cook it for a few minutes until it starts to bubble and just begins to turn brown. Make the roux by stirring in ¾ cup of the flour and whisk until it forms a smooth paste. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, whisking constantly.
2. Add the veal stock, whisking to incorporate the roux and thicken the broth slightly. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low, simmering for about 15 minutes.
3. Break up the brie into chunks and stir it into the soup, allowing a few minutes for it to melt. Add the cream, chopped sage, brandy, and lemon juice.
4. Allow the soup to cool for 20 minutes or so and then place it in small batches in a blender or use a handheld emulsion blender. Be careful using the blender when puréeing hot soup; the heat causes expansion and can pop the top off. You must hold the top firmly and only fill the blender ½ full. Start the blender on the lowest possible speed. If using an emulsion blender, you can blend the soup right in the pot. Blend the soup until smooth.
5. Strain the soup through a fine sieve or china cap to remove little bits of brie rind and make the soup as silky as possible. Season the finished soup with salt and pepper and set it aside over very low heat.
6. About 20 minutes before serving, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, until it reaches 350°F. You can check the temperature with a thermometer or you can tell when it’s hot enough if one drop of tap water sizzles when flicked into the oil. If the oil smokes, it’s too hot; you can then reduce the heat to very low and let it cool off.
7. Meanwhile, in a small mixing bowl, mix together the remaining ¼ cup flour with the cornmeal and paprika. Add the oysters and shake them around in the dredge until they are coated. Place them in a sieve and shake off as much excess flour as possible.
8. Drop the whole sage leaves into the hot oil, one at a time, and carefully stand back: the oil will spatter from the water in the sage. Fry the sage leaves until the oil becomes quiet and the leaves are crisp and slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Remove the leaves with a slotted spoon and drain them on a paper towel. Sprinkle the leaves with salt and set aside.
9. Drop the oysters into the oil in batches of 8. Fry them until they are golden brown and crispy on the outside and soft and creamy on the inside, about 4 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and drain them on a paper towel. Repeat the frying process until all the oysters are fried.
10. Meanwhile, warm 8 soup bowls under hot tap water or in a 200°F oven for a few minutes.
11. Arrange 4 to 5 oysters in the bottom of each soup bowl and top each with a fried sage leaf.
12. Ladle hot soup into gravy pitchers or small water pitchers and pass them around the table to pour over the oysters and sage. You can also ladle the soup into each bowl yourself, just before serving. But remember that the longer you wait to add the soup, the crisper the oysters will stay.
Green Tomato Soup with Summer Savory
This summer favorite is my interpretation of a traditional Greek recipe that my friend Gökcen Adar and I once discussed during a ferry ride across the Bosporus.
Green tomatoes are unripe, and their flesh is tart and meatier than ripened tomatoes. While they are practically inedible raw, they soften and keep their shape when cooked. Look for green tomatoes just before tomato season starts: usually late June for New England.
MAKES 8 CUPS TO SERVE 8
6 tablespoons butter
½ cup flour
1 small onion, roughly chopped
6 cups roughly chopped green tomatoes (about 1 pound)
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped summer savory leaves plus a few sprigs for garnish or basil to substitute
¾ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese or grated kasseri cheese
2 heaping tablespoons Greek-style or plain whole-milk yogurt
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about ¼ lemon)
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1. In a large heavy stockpot or saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the butter. When it starts to foam, make a roux by adding the flour and cooking for a minute while stirring or whisking. Do not brown the roux.
2. Stir in the onion to coat and cook, stirring for 4 to 5 minutes, until the onion begins to soften.
3. Stir in the tomatoes and cover with 4½ cups of water. Season with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.
4. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the summer savory leaves and simmer gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep anything from sticking to the bottom, until the tomatoes are soft. Remove from the heat. With a slotted spoon, remove ½ cup of the cooked tomatoes, chop them finely, and set them aside for a garnish. Allow the soup to cool for at least 20 minutes.
5. Carefully purée the soup in a blender with the parsley leaves, cheese, and yogurt, until smooth. You will need to do this in 2 to 3 batches, depending on the size of your blender. Strain the soup through a china cap or fine sieve into a medium saucepan. This will make the soup ultrasmooth.
6. Gently reheat the soup and taste it for seasoning. Add lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish with nutmeg, a sprig of summer savory, and a spoonful of reserved tomato. Serve immediately.
Fried Green Tomato Parmesan
Because of the movie with the same name, I had always thought that fried green tomatoes were an American dish straight out of the south. After eating many delicious plates of them at Uglesich, my favorite New Orleans restaurant, I was inspired to research green tomatoes in other cuisines. My friend Lydia Giambarella from the Calabria region of Italy, told me that she prepared green tomatoes similarly in her hometown. I have since found recipes from Greece, Turkey, and all over the Mediterranean that use green tomatoes. This one is my favorite.
Serve this bubbly casserole with a salad in the summer for a vegetarian meal or as a side dish with grilled meat.
An earthy, medium-bodied red wine, like a Chianti Classico, is just right with this dish.
SERVES 8 TO 10
4 large green unripe tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
1½ cups all-purpose flour
3 eggs, beaten with 1 tablespoon water
2 cups fine unflavored or plain bread crumbs, such as the Japanese Panko brand (see page 156)
1 to 1½ cups olive oil
2 balls fresh buffalo-milk mozzarella (about 12 ounces total), sliced into ¼-inch slices
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano or summer savory
4 cups tomato sauce with caramelized butter (see Grilled Skirt Steak, page 26)
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Trim the top and bottom of each tomato so that it sits on a cutting surface without rolling. Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch slices. Each tomato should yield about 4–5 slices, depending on the size of the tomato, and the slices should lie flat.
3. Lay the tomato slices out on a cutting surface and sprinkle each generously with salt and pepper.
4. Set up 3 trays or medium mixing bowls, as follows. Add the flour to one and season with salt and pepper. Add the beaten eggs to another and season with salt and pepper. Add the bread crumbs to the last bowl.
5. Dredge a slice of tomato in the flour bowl and shake off any excess. Drop it into the bowl with the beaten egg to coat it, and shake off any excess. Coat each side of the tomato in bread crumbs and set it aside. Bread the rest of the sliced tomatoes in the same fashion.
6. After all the tomatoes are breaded, heat ¼ cup olive oil in a heavy, large, nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Brown the breaded tomatoes for about 3 minutes on one side. Add another ¼ cup olive oil to the pan and turn the tomatoes over, cooking for 3 to 4 more minutes, to brown the other side. Remove the tomatoes from the pan and place them on a baking sheet, lined with paper towels to drain. Repeat the browning process, until all the tomatoes are fried.
7. Place a layer of fried green tomatoes in a large, heavy baking or casserole dish in an even layer, slightly overlapped. Use 8 to 10 slices or about half the tomatoes.
8. Top this layer with half of the slices of sliced mozzarella cheese. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
9. Stir the oregano into the tomato sauce. Spoon 2 cups of the sauce over the tomatoes and mozzarella cheese.
10. Place the final layer of green tomatoes on top and then top this with the remaining mozzarella. Season with salt and pepper.
11. Top the casserole with the remaining 2 cups of tomato sauce and sprinkle it with the Parmesan cheese.
12. Place the casserole dish on a heavy baking pan or tray to capture any juices that bubble over during baking. Bake the casserole for about 20 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the casserole is hot and bubbly. Serve immediately.
Cod with Truffled Leek Sauceand Sweet Potater Tots
This dish was inspired by ingredients from the south of France, but I added a twist: the shredded potatoes are like the tater tots I ate as a kid, and they’re remarkably easy to make. It’s a special late fall or winter recipe when expensive black truffles are in season and leeks are good.
Cod is caught in both the Atlantic and Pacific, and so it’s readily available on both U.S. coasts. Ask your fishmonger for cod cut from the thick, head end of the fish, so that you can cut it into 2-inch-thick fillets.
I smother the cod fillets with sautéed leeks and black truffles, and then wrap it all up in parchment paper before cooking. The little paper packages steam the cod and collect the juices of the fish that will melt into the leeks.
All the fresh herbs mentioned in this chapter pair with the leeks and cod, but thyme and sage work particularly well with truffles. If fresh black truffles (see Resources, page 358) are not available, jarred truffle shavings will do and so will the infused oils that are more widely available.
A light red wine is delightful with this dish, despite the notion that you should only drink white wine with fish. Try a Valpolicella from Italy, or, if you prefer white, a French chardonnay works very well.
SERVES 4
Four 6-ounce portions cod, cut from the thick, head end
Salt and pepper to taste
4 leeks, white part only, root end trimmed
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons fresh chopped thyme or sage or a combination of both
4 sheets parchment paper
4 tablespoons winter black truffle shavings (fresh or jarred) or 2 teaspoons black truffle oil
1 sweet potato, peeled and halved
1 large baking potato, peeled and halved
3 tablespoons cornstarch
Pinch of sugar
2 teaspoons salt
4 cups canola or vegetable oil for frying
1. Sprinkle each piece of cod on both sides with salt and pepper and set aside.
2. Cut the leeks into ¼-inch slices and wash them well. Drain the leeks in a colander and pat themas dry as possible with a paper towel.
3. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter with the olive oil until the butter just begins to brown. Add the leeks and sauté them, reducing the heat to medium if they start to brown. Cook the leeks for about 6 minutes, until they are soft and tender but not mushy.
4. Add the wine, salt and pepper, and 1 tablespoonof the herbs.
5. Cook for 4 more minutes, until the wine has almost evaporated and its sugars have slightly glazed the leeks. Remove from the heat and set aside.
6. Cut 4 squares of parchment paper, roughly 12 × 12 inches.
7. Place a piece of cod on the top quarter of each square. Top each piece of fish with 2 tablespoons of the leek mixture and a tablespoon of black truffle shavings or ½ teaspoon of black truffle oil.
8. Fold the bottom of the parchment paper overthe cod so that the ends of the paper line upand the cod is at the bottom of the fold. Starting from one end of folded parchment paper, pinch the corner and start folding the paper in toward the fish in a rollover motion, ending at the other corner of parchment paper and enclosing the cod in a tight, shell-shaped package. Set the cod packages on a heavy baking sheet and keep them refrigerated while preparing the tater tots.
9. Place both of the potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover them with at least an inch of water. Turn on the heat to high and bring them to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Simmer the potatoes for about 12 minutes, until al dente: they should feel slightly firm when pierced with a knife. Run cold water over both potatoes to cool them through. Don’t drain the potatoes; let them cool down slowly in the cold water so that they stay intact. This will take about 8 minutes. Then drain the potatoes well.
10. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
11. Grate the potatoes using the large holes of abox grater.
12. Place the potatoes in a medium mixing bowl and combine them with the cornstarch, sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, and the remaining 1 tablespoon herbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
13. Take up about 2 tablespoons of potato mixture in your hand and crunch it into a tater tot shape. Continue this process until all the potato mixture is gone. Set the tater tots aside.
14. About 20 minutes before serving, place the fish in the oven and roast for about 12–14 minutes. The bags should be full of air and touching the underside; the fish should feel firm. Let fish rest in bag for 5–10 minutes.
15. Meanwhile, heat the canola oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. The temperature should reach 350°F: hot enough so that when you drop a tater tot in, it sizzles. Fry each tater tot, stirring them after about 30 seconds of frying with a pair of long tongs to keep them from sticking to the bottom, for 4 to 5 minutes, until golden brown and crispy.
16. Using scissors, cut open the cod packages by making crisscross incisions on the uncrimped, flat part of the package. Be careful not to get burned from the escaping steam. Pull the cut bag open with your fingers. Serve the cod in the paper—telling guests not to eat the paper even though it is truffle-rich and tempting—with tater tots on the side.
JUST-DUG POTATOES
I’ve been asked many times what my favorite food is. My answer is always the same: just-dug potatoes. My first just-dug potato experience was during a visit to the Farm School in Athol, Massachusetts, where children and adults learn about farming in two separate programs. The Farm School invites kids from different backgrounds and schools to stay in their bunk house and work on the farm for a few days. Depending on the time of year and the ages of the students, kids can gather eggs from the chickens, feed the pigs, clear the woods, build a shed, harvest vegetables, weed, or plow—all as part of their field trip experience.
On the day I visited, the kids were harvesting potatoes, and I dug with them. I loosened each side of a row of soil with a pitchfork, and then the kids and I stuck our hands in the dirt and pulled out potatoes. I learned that potatoes are not a root but rather a growth on a stem; sitting in the soil, they look just like eggs in a nest. The instructor said, “This is where French fries come from,” but I couldn’t tell if the kids believed him. We all went into the dining hall and ate a lunch that the kids prepared from freshly harvested vegetables. It was exhilarating to watch these kids connect to their food and the land. For more information on the Farm School, see page 358 in the Resources section.
After my Farm School experience, I returned to the restaurant with my bag of just-dug potatoes. I was glowing so much that my staff asked if I had been drinking! I couldn’t wait to get into the kitchen and start experimenting with the recipe I had been carrying around in my head: just-dug potato “risotto.” I peeled the potatoes and minced them into tiny bits as small as rice granules. I cooked them with pitted green olives, walnuts, rosemary, and cream until the potatoes absorbed the cream, like risotto. Everyone in the kitchen tasted the results, and we all agreed that there was almost nothing better.
Just-dug potatoes are sweet and earthy: the sugars are concentrated and have not yet turned into starch. You can see the sugars: they stick to your knife as you cut the potatoes. Just-dug potato skins are thin, and they thicken when stored. When you wash just-dug potatoes, the skin will almost completely come off.
Just-dug potato season starts in the height of summer in New England and continues through fall. Potato farmers dig their crops at different stages, depending on variety, staggering of crops, and desired size. Even after a week of storage, potato starches change and the skins thicken. Stored potatoes are still delicious, but their flavor and texture have been altered.
Just-dug potatoes are great for roasting or preparing like a risotto or boiling and eating as is. They don’t make a good mashed or puréed potato.
Potato Considerations
It’s important to consider that different potatoes have different textures, and some varieties work better in certain dishes than in others. Here’s my list of potato considerations:
Baking or Idaho or russet potatoes – Because these potatoes are so starchy, they dry out easily, giving old-fashioned baked potato wedges or steak fries the perfect crispiness. They also absorb butter, cream, and olive oil easily, which makes them work well for mashed potatoes or any potato purée, gnocchi, and dauphine potatoes (potato purée that is piped through a pastry bag and then broiled). With thicker skinned potatoes, peeling is usually necessary.
Fingerling potatoes – These long, thin potatoes are sweet and firm-textured. They hold their shape when cooked, which makes them great for roasting or adding to stews. The skins are delicious when left on.
Red bliss potatoes – Because they hold their shape so well, this white and sugary variety is great for cold potato salads and for grilling and roasting. And because they are pale and somewhat bland, they really soak up vinaigrettes.
Yukon gold potatoes – When shredded, this butter-flavored variety is starchy enough to stick together and fries up extra crispy, which makes it ideal for shredded potato cakes or latkes. Yukon golds are also perfect for scalloped potatoes or pommes Anna (a layered potato cake with clarified butter).
Kennebec potatoes – These potatoes develop skins thick enough to last in storage. They are also good for baking and are better peeled.
Rules of Thumb for Cooking Potatoes
As for any vegetable that grows underground, start cooking potatoes in cold or warm water. If you drop potatoes into boiling water, they may explode and leave you with potato soup. When potatoes reach boiling temperature slowly, the starch develops a gelatin-like film that slows water absorption; your potatoes will be soft and tender without falling to pieces.
If your potatoes have sprouted or turned green, peel them deeply enough to get rid of the affected areas. At this stage, potatoes harbor toxic alkaloids that can give you an upset stomach.
Potato Risotto with Green Olives, Walnuts, and Rosemary
This recipe is a fun alternative to risotto, and it’s particularly delicious with just-dug potatoes. I created this dish after enjoying the unparalleled just-dug potato experience, described on page 292.
Fresh rosemary complements potatoes well, and I use a little to brighten the floral tones that the olives and walnuts give. The other herbs mentioned in this chapter will also work as a substitute if rosemary is not one of your favorite tastes.
The combination of green olives and walnuts is truly Mediterranean. It’s important to use really good-quality green olives—such as Picholine or Lucques, both from the south of France—that are sweet and floral and not meaty or too briny. The olives should cut through the rich cream and delicately flavor but not overpower the potatoes.
I like to use buttery, creamy Kennebec or Yukon gold potatoes in this recipe but any favorite potato will work. Chopping the potatoes into a very small dice requires some preparation time but is well worth the effort. The French culinary term for a very small vegetable dice is brunoise, and it’s about an 1/8 inch. The potato dice absorbs the cream as it cooks and resembles the consistency of a creamy risotto.
Serve this dish with grilled or roasted meats or with a salad as a substantial vegetarian meal in the summer or early fall. Drink a glass of Sancerre rouge, a red wine from the Loire Valley made from Pinot Noir.
SERVES 4
8 to 10 golf ball-size potatoes, washed (peeled, only if skin is thick)
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and finely minced
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
¾ cup pitted, coarsely chopped Picholine or Lucques olives
4 tablespoons coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Cut the potatoes into 1/8- to ¼-inch slices and then julienne each slice into strips a little thicker than a matchstick (1/8- to ¼-inch wide). Dice the julienne into a brunoise or very fine dice and place them into a medium mixing bowl. You should have about 4 cups.
2. In a medium-large, nonstick sauté pan overmedium-high heat, heat the olive oil until hot and stir in the shallots. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring, and then add the potatoes. Stir to coat with the shallots.
3. Add the cream and season the mixture with salt and pepper.
4. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and have absorbed all the cream. Check the seasoning and add more salt and pepper if needed.
5. Stir in the olives, walnuts, and rosemary. Thin out the mixture with a spoonful or two of water if the potatoes are too thick. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer to allow the olives and walnuts to warm up and release their fragrance.
6. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.
Maria’s Shrimp Saganaki Flambéed with Ouzo
This recipe is from the kitchen of my dear friend and amazing home cook, Maria Hatziiliades. Both Maria and her husband Max are from Greece. Maria’s shrimp are a great dish to bring to a summertime party: they’re easy to make, can be served as a light meal, are delicious served hot or at room temperature, and guests can’t get enough of them.
The ouzo is a must: it adds a sweet, slight fennel flavor that can’t be duplicated. Serve this dish with a spicy Malagousia from Greece. If this wine is too difficult to find, try its Italian relative, Malvasia.
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 6 AS A FIRST COURSE
1 white onion, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ½-ince dice
6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see page 104), and coarsely chopped
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped garlic (about 2 large cloves)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or summer savory
Salt and pepper to taste
12 large shrimp (U-10 or 10 to a pound), peeled and deveined
1 cup sheep’s milk French feta or creamy-style feta
¼ cup ouzo
1. Place the onion and peppers in a large skillet with the tomatoes and olive oil and cook them over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the onion begins to soften. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the vegetables for 20 to 25 minutes, until the vegetables are soft.
2. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
3. Stir the garlic and oregano into the vegetable mixture and cook for a few minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Pour the vegetable mixture into a casserole dish and nestle the shrimp into it in one even layer. Sprinkle with feta.
5. Bake uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until the shrimp is cooked through and the casserole is bubbly.
6. Just before serving, place the casserole on a low burner until the mixture starts to bubble again. Add the ouzo and carefully light the casserole with a match, standing back a little in case the flame goes high. Bring the casserole to the table and allow the flames to burn off, leaving only the flavor of the ouzo, before serving.
Sage-Rubbed Pork with Red Rice and Beans
This is my Mediterranean spin-off of pork with rice and beans, a favorite dish in Latin countries. Fresh sage is an herb that pairs really well with pork and turkey; it’s good with rich red and white meats because it cuts through fatty flavors and brightens the taste.
I love using flageolet beans, available at gourmet and whole foods markets, because they’re delicate, fragrant, and naturally sweet and buttery. Even though I usually shy away from dried herbs, I like to toss the beans with herbs de Provence (see Resources, page 358). This high-quality fresh blend of rosemary, cracked fennel, thyme, basil, tarragon, and just enough lavender imparts a floral aroma that doesn’t overpower.
In this recipe, I like to use red rice from the Camargue region of the south of France, a marshland that butts up against the Mediterranean coast between Marseille and Montpelier. The high natural salt content in the Camargue’s soil makes growing most crops a challenge, but rice can handle high levels of salinity. Camargue rice has been granted a Protected Geographic Indication by the European Community, recognizing its uniqueness and its connection to the region. You can find American-grown varieties, but Camargue red rice is superior (see Resources, page 358). It is an earthy, gutsy unmilled short-grain rice, brownish-red in color, nutty in flavor, and firm and slightly chewy in texture. It’s excellent paired with sage and other strong flavors. As a short-grain rice, it is not meant to fluff and separate and should be slightly sticky when cooked.
Enjoy a pinot noir from Burgundy with this dish.
SERVES 6
2 small bunches sage, leaves only
4 cloves garlic
¼ cup lemon juice (about ½ lemon)
7 tablespoons olive oil
2½ pounds boneless pork loin
2 cups flageolet beans, soaked overnightin plenty of water in the refrigerator
Salt and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons herbs de Provence
2 cups red rice from the Camargue
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped
1. Using a blender, make a sage rub by puréeing the sage leaves with garlic, lemon juice, and 4 tablespoons of the olive oil.
2. Rub the pork loin on all sides with the sage rub and let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour before roasting to impart flavors.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
4. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan, over high heat. Drain the soaked flageolet beans through a sieve or colander and add them to the boiling water, stirring. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer the beans for about 18 minutes, until tender but not mushy. Drain them in a colander or sieve and place them in a medium mixing bowl. Season them generously with salt and pepper and stir in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the herbs de Provence. Set aside.
5. Season all sides of the pork loin generously with salt and pepper.
6. Put the pork loin in a roasting pan and place it in the oven, uncovered; after 10 minutes, reduce the temperature to 350°F. Continue to cook the pork for 20 to 30 more minutes, depending on the thickness of the pork loin, until a meat thermometer reads 140 to 145°F, so the pork will be pink or medium. Leave the thermometer in and let the pork rest for at least 10 minutes, so that it reaches an internal temperature of 150°F. Add a cup of water to the roasting pan to loosen any bits of carmelized juice and roll the loin around in the juices to glaze it.
7. Meanwhile, bring 8 to 10 cups of water to a boil over high heat in a large saucepan.
8. Add the red rice and onion and stir. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer uncovered for about 40 minutes, until the rice is tender. Drain the rice well in a colander and put it back into the saucepan. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, using a fork so that the rice fluffs. Season the rice with salt and pepper.
9. Spoon a cup of rice in the center of each plate and make a well in the center to hold a ¼ cup of beans.
10. Slice the pork loin into 12 to 18 thin slices and lay 2 to 3 slices over the beans and rice and serve immediately.