Searchable Terms
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
A 
Abul-Jubein, Sari, x, 83
acorda: Portuguese bread soup with rock shrimp, 214–15
Adams, Ruth Ann, 310
Adar, Gökcen, 123, 285
Aigo Bistro, ix, 338
aioli:
lemon, 50
nasturtium, zucchini fritters with, 308–9
toasted orange zest, 50
Aleppo chilies, 140–41
recipes with Urfa, paprika and, 143–71
allspice, 102–3
recipes with cinnamon, nutmeg and, 105–39
almond(s):
blanching, 340
in celery root skordalia, 341–42
couscous, veal tagine with Moroccan spices and, 162–65
fried, halibut cooked in milk with cinnamon, spinach and, 123–24
and garlic soup, 338–40
palace pilav: bulgur with pine nuts, pistachios, mulberries and, 350–51
sugared, Sicilian cremolata with, 354–56
in Turkish tarator sauce, fried mussels with, 352–53
Anik, Michel, 152
appetizers:
Armenian bean and walnut pâté, 334–35
beet tzatziki, 252–53
caramelized onion tart with poppy seeds, bacon, and dates, 182–84
chicken and walnut pâté with smoky paprika, 146–48
chickpea and potato terrine stuffed with pine nuts, spinach, onion, and tahini, 110–12
creamy parsnip hummus with parsley, 188–89
deviled eggs with tuna and black olives, 203–4
grilled mushroom banderilla, 45–46
hot buttered hummus with basturma and tomato, 200–202
muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
roasted red peppers with sesame seed vinaigrette, 195
Serrano ham with blood-orange and fennel salad, 85–86
smoky eggplant purée with pine nuts and Urfa pepper, 144–45
spinach bundles with warm goat cheese, 180–81
Swiss chard dolmas with Ayfer’s rice, 117–19
whipped feta with sweet and hot peppers, 149
zucchini fritters with nasturtium aioli, 308–9
apple(s):
and endive salad with grapes, sumac, and pecan labne, 80–82
Greek salad with winter vegetables, barrel-aged feta cheese and, 234–35
apricot purée, grano with Greek yogurt and, 305
Arabic coffee pot de crème, 30–31
Armenian bean and walnut pâté, 334–35
artichokes, Istanbul-style, 267–68
arugula:
in chopped romaine and cucumber salad with yogurt dressing, 256–57
for scallop pizza with leeks and fennel seed, 92–93
avocado:
hummus, fried squid with, 17–18
trout spanakopitta with salmon roe and, 272–73
B
bacon, caramelized onion tart with poppy seeds, dates and, 182–84
baklava, 128
black walnut, 129–31
banderilla, grilled mushroom, 45–46
Barilla Pasta and Oldways Preservation and Trust, 47
basil, sweet, 248, 250
recipes with fresh parsley, mint, dill and, 251–73
Bassmajian, Jack and Elizabeth, 153
basturma:
hot buttered hummus with tomato and, 200–202
for Ihsan’s doggy eyes, 218–19
roast chicken stuffed with kasseri cheese and, 223–25
Bavarian, crème fraîche, poached figs in red wine with, 132–35
beans, dried:
cranberry, stewed with tomato and cinnamon, 113–14
sage-rubbed pork with red rice and, 298–99
and walnut pâté, Armenian, 334–35
Beaujolais wines, 264
beef:
braised, short ribs with vanilla-glazed carrots, 66–67
grilled skirt steak with tomato, caramelized butter, and cumin, 26–27
ground, and pistachio kebobs, 236–38
in homemade sujuk (sausage), 220–22
shish kebobs with sumac onions and parsley butter, 98–99
steak tartare, Turkish-style, 120–22
beet(s):
roasted, with toasted orange aioli and pine nuts, 78–79
tzatziki, 252–53
berry(ies):
chamomile, soup with chamomile sabayon, 312–13
in grano with Greek yogurt and orange blossom honey, 304–5
Betancourt, Francisco, 240
beverages:
C-licious: orange-coriander sangria, 37
Dunia’s iced tea, 329
Oleana 3C ale, 4
Paopao cocktail, 36
Turkish coffee, 32–33
bisteeya, sweet potato, 42–44
black kale malfati in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
black walnut baklava, 129–31
blood orange and fennel salad, Serrano ham with, 85–86
borek, pumpkin, 115–16
bread(s):
acorda: Portuguese, soup with rock shrimp, 214–15
crispy pita, chopped vegetable salad (fatoush) with yogurt, tahini and, 262–64
Francisco’s manaaeesh (flatbread with za’atar), 240–41
for garlic and almond soup, 338–40
pita, for beef shish kebobs with sumac onions and parsley butter, 98–99
pita, for grilled skirt steak with tomato, caramelized butter, and cumin, 26–27
pita, for ground beef and pistachio kebobs, 236–38
and ricotta dumplings with red wine and porcini mushrooms, 346–48
syrup-soaked, pudding with thick cream and pistachios (palace bread), 314–15
toasted pita bread chips, 122
see also lavash
bread crumbs:
in fried green tomato Parmesan, 287–88
in galette of tender pork with cumin and cider, 24–25
in garlic and almond soup, 338–40
in golden gazpacho with condiments, 210–11
homemade, 156
in muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
Brie soup with fried oysters and sage, 282–84
brik, shrimp, with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
brik pastry (feuilles de brik), using, 91
brown butter, squash kibbeh with spiced feta and, 106–8
bulgur:
in basil and walnut tabouleh, sliced summer tomatoes with, 258–59
with pine nuts, almonds, pistachios, and mulberries (palace pilav), 350–51
in red lentil köfte with tomato, cucumber, and pomegranate, 12–14
in squash kibbeh with brown butter and spiced feta, 106–8
in steak tartare, Turkish style, 120–22
butter, cultured, 150
buttermilk:
in crick-cracks: savory Turkish-style crackers, 176–77
in persimmon pudding cake with maple sugar crème brûlée, 136–39
butters, flavored:
nasturtium, Wilton’s corn cakes with, 306–7
orange-saffron, seared sea scallops with rice cakes and, 62–64
parsley, beef shish kebobs with sumac onions and, 98–99
C
cabbage, Savoy, in shrimp brik with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
cake, persimmon pudding, with maple sugar crème brûlée, 136–39
caramelized butter, grilled skirt steak with tomato, cumin and, 26–27
caramelized onion tart with poppy seeds, bacon, and dates, 182–84
cardamom, 2–3
recipes with cumin, coriander and, 5–37
carrot(s):
Jerusalem-style, salad with hot goat cheese crottin, 260–61
purée and Egyptian spice mix with nuts and olive oil, 6–7
vanilla-glazed, braised beef short ribs with, 66–67
Casablanca restaurant, 66, 83, 92, 146, 157, 260, 310
celery root skordalia, 341–42
Chaison, Leslie, 333
chamomile, 300–302
berry soup with chamomile sabayon, 312–13
recipes for edible flowers and, 303–29
charmoula:
grapefruit, shrimp brik with pistachio and, 89–91
spice for grilled fish, 205
cheese, 330, 349
recipes with nuts, yogurt and, 332–56
Shoushan’s homemade string, with nigella seeds, 178–79
Turkish, pancakes, 343–45
see also specific cheeses
chestnut soup with moscato wine, black kale malfati in, 125–27
chicken:
crispy lemon, with za’atar, 245–47
egg-lemon soup with grano and sumac, 87–88
lamejun with roasted peaches, pistachio, and sumac, 94–96
Persian fried, 56–57
roast, stuffed with basturma and kasseri cheese, 223–25
and walnut pâté with smoky paprika, 146–48
chickpea(s):
crepes, 8–9
flour, in spinach falafel with tahini sauce and pickled pears, 185–87
in hot buttered hummus with basturma and tomato, 200–202
and potato terrine stuffed with pine nuts, spinach, onion, and tahini, 110–12
spicy fideos with vanilla, saffron and, 47–49
cider, galette of tender pork with cumin and, 24–25
cilantro:
in Fanny’s fresh pea and two potato soup, 212–13
in shrimp brik with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
cinnamon, 102–3
recipes with allspice, nutmeg and, 105–39
Cisco Brewers, 4
citrus, 71
recipes with sumac, fennel seed and, 74–99
zesting, sectioning, and toasting, 72
C-licious: orange-coriander sangria, 37
coconut, in swordfish kebobs with nigella seed vinaigrette, 190–91
cod:
salt, fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
with truffled leek sauce and sweet potater tots, 289–91
coffee, 28–29
Arabic, pot de crème, 30–31
grounds, reading fortunes in, 29
Turkish, 32–33
Cooke, Ailsa, 214
Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean (Wolfert), 88
coriander, 2–3
recipes with cumin, cardamom and, 5–37
corn cakes, Wilton’s, with nasturtium butter, 306–7
couscous, almond, veal tagine with Moroccan spices and, 162–65
crabmeat:
baby sole with raki and, 270–71
egg-lemon soup with saffron and, 51–52
crackers, savory Turkish-style (crick-cracks), 176–77
cranberry beans stewed with tomato and cinnamon, 113–14
cream, heavy:
in Arabic coffee pot de crème, 30–31
in baby sole with crab and raki, 270–71
folding custard and, 135
in frozen jasmine soufflé with tropical fruit syrup, 323–25
in maple sugar crème brûlée, persimmon pudding cake with, 136–39
in nougat glacé, poached nectarine stuffed with, 316–19
in potato risotto with green olives, walnuts, and rosemary, 294–95
in salt cod fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
in scallop pizza with leeks and fennel seed, 92–93
in strawberry lavender tart, 326–28
crème brûlée, maple sugar, 139
crème fraîche:
Bavarian, poached figs in spiced red wine with, 132–35
in caramelized onion tart with poppy seeds, bacon, and dates, 182–84
folding custard into, 135
monkfish with ginger, seared greens and, 53–54
cremolata, Sicilian, with sugared almonds, 354–56
crepes, chickpea, 8–9
crick-cracks: savory Turkish-style crackers, 176–77
crust, for strawberry lavender tart, 326–28
cucumbers:
and chopped romaine salad with yogurt dressing, 256–57
for Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
red lentil köfte with tomato, pomegranate and, 12–14
cumin, 2–3
recipes with coriander, cardamom and, 5–37
Cupia restaurant, 144
curry powder, 196–97
homemade, 209
recipes with turmeric, fenugreek and, 199–225
D
dates:
caramelized onion tart with poppy seeds, bacon and, 182–84
spiced, fried haloumi cheese with pear and, 10–11
desserts:
Arabic coffee pot de crème, 30–31
black walnut baklava, 129–31
chamomile berry soup with chamomile sabayon, 312–13
frozen jasmine soufflé with tropical fruit syrup, 323–25
künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
molding frozen, 325
palace bread: syrup-soaked bread pudding with thick cream and pistachios, 314–15
panforte, 68–69
persimmon pudding cake with maple sugar crème brûlée, 136–39
poached figs in spiced red wine with crème fraîche Bavarian, 132–35
poached nectarine stuffed with nougat glacé, 316–19
Sicilian cremolata with sugared almonds, 354–56
strawberry lavender tart, 326–28
watermelon granité and frozen yogurt parfait with real rose petal jam, 320–22
dill, fresh, 248, 250
recipes with fresh parsley, mint, sweet basil and, 251–73
dolmas, Swiss chard, with Ayfer’s rice, 117–19
dressing, yogurt, chopped romaine and cucumber salad with, 256–57
duck, roasted crispy, with tomato-sesame jam, 192–94
dukkah (Egyptian spice mix) with nuts and olive oil, carrot purée and, 6–7
dumplings:
black kale malfati in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
ricotta and bread, with red wine and porcini mushrooms, 346–48
Dunia’s iced tea, 329
E
eggplant:
in moussaka, lamb steak with Turkish spices and, 166–69
in muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
smoky, purée with pine nuts and Urfa pepper, 144–45
soufflé, 265–66
eggs:
in Arabic coffee pot de crème, 30–31
in chamomile sabayon, chamomile berry soup with, 312–13
in crème fraîche Bavarian, poached figs in spiced red wine, 132–35
deviled, with tuna and black olives, 203–4
in eggplant soufflé, 265–66
in favorite yogurt soup with toasted pasta and dried mint, 242–43
in frozen jasmine soufflé with tropical fruit syrup, 323–25
in frozen yogurt parfait with real rose petal jam, watermelon granité and, 320–22
in galette of tender pork with cumin and cider, 24–25
Ihsan’s “doggy,” 218–19
-lemon chicken soup with grano and sumac, 87–88
-lemon soup with saffron and crab, 51–52
in persimmon pudding cake with maple syrup crème brûlée, 136–39
in pumpkin borek, 115–16
in rice cakes, 65
in sweet potato bisteeya, 42–44
in Wilton’s corn cakes with nasturtium butter, 306–7
Egyptian spice mix and carrot purée, with nuts and olive oil, 6–7
endive and apple salad with grapes, sumac, and pecan labne, 80–82
Erdinc, Ferda, x, 12, 15, 267
Ezzediene, Diala, 329
F
falafel, spinach with tahini sauce and pickled pears, 185–87
fatoush: chopped vegetable salad with crispy pita, yogurt, and tahini, 262–64
fennel, 72–73
and blood-orange salad, Serrano ham with, 85–86
sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, kasseri, cheese and, 83–84
shrimp with kasseri cheese, fenugreek and, wrapped in shredded phyllo, 206–8
in trout spanakopitta with avocado and salmon roe, 272–73
fennel seed, 70, 72–73
recipes with sumac, citrus and, 74–99
fenugreek, 196, 198
recipes with curry powder, turmeric and, 199–225
feta cheese, 349
barrel-aged, Greek salad with winter vegetables, apple and, 234–35
in green tomato soup with summer savory, 285–86
in Maria’s shrimp saganaki flambéed with ouzo, 296–97
sauce, Maria’s, with shrimp, melon, and tomato, 336–37
spiced, squash kibbeh with brown butter and, 106–8
in Turkish cheese pancakes, 343–45
whipped, with sweet and hot peppers, 149
fideos, spicy, with chickpeas, vanilla, and saffron, 47–49
figs, poached, in spiced red wine with crème fraîche Bavarian, 132–35
fish:
charmoula spice for grilled, 205
fumet (broth), 161
salting of, 124
spice, 75
see also specific fish
folding, 135
fritters:
salt cod, with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
zucchini, with nasturtium aioli, 308–9
frozen desserts, tips on molding, 325
frozen jasmine soufflé with tropical fruit syrup, 323–25
frozen yogurt parfait and watermelon granité with real rose petal jam, 320–22
G
galette of tender pork with cumin and cider, 24–25
garlic:
in acorda: Portuguese bread soup with rock shrimp, 214–15
and almond soup, 338–40
in beef shish kebobs with sumac onions and parsley butter, 98–99
in Istanbul-style artichokes, 267–68
mincing, without a press, 257
in monkfish with ginger, crème fraîche, and seared greens, 53–54
in Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
in sage-rubbed pork with red rice and beans, 298–99
seared salmon with Egyptian, and coriander sauce, 20–21
in spicy fideos with chickpeas, vanilla, and saffron, 47–49
in spoon lamb, 22–23
gazpacho, golden, with condiments, 210–11
Gewürztraminer wines, 61
Giambarella, Lydia, 287
Gilson, David, 248
ginger, 38–39
recipes with saffron, vanilla and, 41–69
goat cheese:
Jerusalem-style carrot salad with hot, crottin, 260–61
spinach bundles with warm, 180–81
granité, watermelon, and frozen yogurt parfait with real rose petal jam, 320–22
grano, 88
chicken egg-lemon soup with sumac and, 87–88
with Greek yogurt and orange blossom honey, 304–5
grapefruit and pistachio charmoula, shrimp brik with, 89–91
grape leaves, for swordfish kebobs with nigella seed vinaigrette, 190–91
grapes, endive and apple salad with sumac, pecan labne and, 80–82
Greek pastries (sarikopites) with tuna, fennel, and kasseri cheese, 83–84
Greek salad with winter vegetables, apple, and barrel-aged feta cheese, 234–35
Greek wines, 244
greens, autumn, 55
green tomato(es):
fried, Parmesan, 287–88
for Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
soup with summer savory, 285–86
Griffin, Gary, 214
grilling tips and supplies, 100–101
Gurdhal, Ihsan and Valerie, 141, 218
H
halibut:
cakes with olive oil-lemon sauce, 76–77
cooked in milk with cinnamon, fried almonds, and spinach, 123–24
haloumi cheese, 349
fried, with pear and spiced dates, 10–11
ham, Serrano, with blood-orange and fennel salad, 85–86
Hamdi restaurant, 34
harissa:
basic North African chili paste, 152
in shrimp brik with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
in veal tagine with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
Hatziiliades, Maria and Max, 80, 124, 296, 336
heirloom vegetables, 269
herbs, sieving dried, 230
honey:
in black walnut baklava, 129–31
orange blossom, grano with Greek yogurt and, 304–5
in panforte, 68–69
in poached figs in spiced red wine with crème fraîche Bavarian, 132–35
Hudson, Randy, 4
hummus:
avocado, fried squid with, 17–18
creamy parsnip, with parsley, 188–89
hot buttered, with basturma and tomato, 200–202
I
ingredients, resources for, 358–59
Istanbul-style artichokes, 267–68
J
jallab syrup, in Dunia’s iced tea, 329
jams:
real rose petal, watermelon granité and frozen yogurt parfait with, 320–22
Ruth Ann Adams’s rhubarb rose, with quail, 310–11
tomato-sesame, roasted crispy duck with, 192–94
jasmine, 300, 302
frozen, soufflé with tropical fruit syrup, 323–25
recipes for edible flowers and, 303–29
Jason, Rosemary, 170
Jerusalem-style carrot salad with hot goat cheese crottin, 260–61
Johansen, Betty, ix
K
kale, black, malfati in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
kasseri cheese:
in eggplant soufflé, 265–66
in moussaka, lamb steak with Turkish spices and, 166–69
roast chicken stuffed with basturma and, 223–25
sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, fennel and, 83–84
shrimp with fennel, fenugreek and, wrapped in shredded phyllo, 206–8
in Turkish cheese pancakes, 343–45
kibbeh, squash, with brown butter and spiced feta, 106–8
Kilpatrick, Maura, 34, 129, 132, 176, 301–2, 312, 314, 316, 320, 323, 325, 354
köfte, red lentil, with tomato, cucumber, and pomegranate, 12–14
Kokkari restaurant, 28
künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
Kyriakides, Cassie, 220
L
labne (yogurt cheese), 80
pecan, for endive and apple salad with grapes and sumac, 80–82
lamb:
spoon, 22–23
steak with Turkish spices and moussaka, 166–69
Turkish baharat spice mix for, 232
lamejun (flatbread), 95
chicken, with roasted peaches, pistachio, and sumac, 94–96
L’Atelier restaurant, 206
lavash (thin bread), 94
for chicken lamejun with roasted peaches, pistachio, and sumac, 94–96
for spinach falafel with tahini sauce and pickled pears, 185–87
lavender, 300, 302
recipes for edible flowers and, 303–29
leeks:
scallop pizza with fennel seed and, 92–93
steamed mussels with smoky paprika and, 150–51
truffled, sauce, cod with sweet potater tots and, 289–91
lemon:
aioli, 50
in avocado hummus, fried squid with, 17–18
in champagne-cardamom syrup, künefe with, 34–35
in creamy parsnip hummus with parsley, 188–89
crispy, chicken with za’atar, 245–47
-egg chicken soup with grano and sumac, 87–88
-egg soup with saffron and crab, 51–52
-olive oil sauce, halibut cakes with, 76–77
in roast chicken stuffed with basturma and kasseri cheese, 223–25
in steak tartare, Turkish style, 120–22
M
mace, 103
malfati (dumplings), black kale, in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
manaaeesh, Francisco’s (flatbread with za’atar), 240–41
maple sugar crème brûlée, persimmon pudding cake with, 136–39
mascarpone cheese:
in künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
in palace bread: syrup-soaked bread pudding with pistachios and, 314–15
Maya, Rafael, 157
mayonnaise, in deviled eggs with tuna and black olives, 203–4
Mazy’s jeweled rice, 58–59
Meddeb, Moncef, ix–x
Mediterranean Feast, A (Wright), 146
Mehrabyan, Armen, 110, 334
melon and tomato salad with mozzarella and oregano, 278–79
Middle Eastern five-spice, 109
milk, whole:
in Arabic coffee pot de crème, 30–31
in crème fraîche Bavarian, poached figs in spiced red wine with, 132–35
halibut cooked in, with cinnamon, fried almonds, and spinach, 123–24
in mashed potatoes with fenugreek, 216–17
in moussaka, lamb steak with Turkish spices and, 166–69
in ricotta and bread dumplings with red wine and porcini mushrooms, 346–48
for salt cod fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
in veal tagine with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
mint, dried, 228–29
recipes with dried oregano, za’atar and, 231–47
mint, fresh, 248–50
recipes with fresh parsley, dill, sweet basil and, 251–73
monkfish with ginger, crème fraîche, and seared greens, 53–54
Mooridian, Mark, 28
Moroccan ras el hannout (spice blend), 16
Moroccan-style sweet potato bisteeya, 42–44
Mourad, Mona, 20
moussaka, lamb steak with Turkish spices and, 166–69
Mozayeni, Mazy, 58
mozzarella cheese:
curd, for Shoushan’s homemade string cheese with nigella seeds, 178–79
in fried green tomato Parmesan, 287–88
in künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
melon and tomato salad with oregano and, 278–79
in pumpkin borek, 115–16
muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
mulberries:
in Mazy’s jeweled rice, 58–59
palace pilav: bulgur with pine nuts, almonds, pistachios and, 350–51
mushrooms:
grilled, banderilla, 45–46
ricotta and bread dumplings with red wine and porcini, 346–48
mussels:
fried, with Turkish tarator sauce, 352–53
steamed, with leeks and smoky paprika, 150–51
N
Nalbandian, Vartan, 178
nasturtium, 300–301
recipes with edible flowers and, 303–29
nectarine, poached, stuffed with nougat glacé, 316–19
nigella seeds, 172–74
recipes with poppy, sesame and, 175–95
Nookie (sous-chef), 4
Nookie’s pickles: green tomato, turnip, cucumber, and pear variations, 280–81
North African chili paste (harissa), 152
nougat glacé, poached nectarine stuffed with, 316–19
nutmeg, 102–4
recipes with allspice, cinnamon and, 105–39
nuts, 330–31
carrot purée and Egyptian spice mix with olive oil and, 6–7
in Mazy’s jeweled rice, 58–59
in panforte, 68–69
recipes with yogurt, cheese and, 332–56
toasting, 91
see also specific nuts
O
Oleana 3C Ale, 4
olive oil:
carrot purée and Egyptian spice mix nuts and, 6–7
in Istanbul-style artichokes, 267–68
-lemon sauce, halibut cakes with, 76–77
olives:
black, deviled eggs with tuna and, 203–4
in Greek salad with winter vegetables, apple, and barrel-aged feta cheese, 234–35
green, in sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, fennel, and kasseri cheese, 83–84
green, potato risotto with walnuts, rosemary and, 294–95
in hot buttered hummus with basturma and tomato, 200–202
for Serrano ham with blood-orange and fennel salad, 85–86
warm, with za’atar, 239
onions:
caramelized, tart with poppy seeds, bacon, and dates, 182–84
chickpea and potato terrine stuffed with pine nuts, spinach, tahini and, 110–12
in garlic and almond soup, 338–40
sumac, beef shish kebobs with parsley butter and, 98–99
orange(s):
candied, for poached nectarine stuffed with noughat glacé, 316–19
-coriander sangria, C-licious, 37
in halibut cooked in milk with cinnamon, fried almonds, and spinach, 123–24
-saffron butter, seared sea scallops with rice cakes and, 62–64
toasted, aioli, 50
orange blossom, 300–301
recipes with edible flowers and, 303–29
oregano, dried, 228–29
recipes with dried mint, za’atar and, 231–47
oregano, fresh, 274–75
recipes with summer savory, sage, rosemary, thyme and, 277–99
Orlando, Mike, 88
Osorno, Wilton, 212, 306
Ottoman Kitchen, The (Woodward), 350
ouzo:
in fried haloumi cheese with pear and spiced dates, 10–11
Maria’s shrimp saganaki flambéed with, 296–97
oysters, fried, Brie soup with sage and, 282–84
P
palace bread: syrup-soaked bread pudding with thick cream and pistachios, 314–15
palace pilav: bulgur with pine nuts, almonds, pistachios, and mulberries, 350–51
pancakes, Turkish cheese, 343–45
panforte, 68–69
Panko bread crumbs, 156
Paopao, Theresa, 36, 225, 244, 264, 357
Paopao cocktail, 36
paprika chilies, 140–42
recipes with Aleppo, Urfa and, 143–71
Parmesan cheese:
in black kale malfati in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
in chickpea crepes, 8–9
fried green tomato, 287–88
parsley, fresh, 248–49
butter, beef shish kebobs with sumac onions and, 98–99
creamy parsnip hummus with, 188–89
in garlic and almond soup, 338–40
in green tomato soup with summer savory, 285–86
recipes with mint, dill, sweet basil and, 251–73
in sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, fennel, and Kasseri cheese, 83–84
parsnip hummus, creamy, with parsley, 188–89
pasta:
in palace pilav: bulgur with pine nuts, almonds, pistachios, and mulberries, 350–51
spicy fideos with chickpeas, vanilla, and saffron, 47–49
toasted, favorite yogurt soup with dried mint and, 242–43
pâtés:
Armenian bean and walnut, 334–35
chicken and walnut, with smoky paprika, 146–48
peach(es):
grilled, and pepper salad, 254–55
purée, grano with Greek yogurt and, 305
roasted, chicken lamejun with pistachio, sumac and, 94–96
pear(s):
fried haloumi cheese with spiced dates and, 10–11
juice or purée, in Paopao cocktail, 36
for Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
pickled, spinach falafel with tahini sauce and, 185–87
variation on poached figs in spiced red wine, 135
peas, fresh, Fanny’s two potato soup with, 212–13
pecan(s):
labne, endive and apple salad with grapes, sumac and, 80–82
in Rosemary’s spicy caramel popcorn, 170–71
peppers, sweet:
chicken lamejun with pistachio, sumac and, 96
and grilled peach salad, 254–55
roasted red, with sesame seed vinaigrette, 195
roasting, 97
salt cod fritters with red wine and, 157–60
and walnut purée (muhammara), 153–55
whipped feta with hot peppers and, 149
Persian fried chicken, 56–57
Persian spice mix, 60
persimmon pudding cake with maple sugar crème brûlée, 136–39
phyllo dough:
for black walnut baklava, 129–31
for künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
for sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, fennel, and kasseri cheese, 83–84
for shrimp brik with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
shrimp with kasseri cheese, fennel, and fenugreek wrapped in shredded, 206–8
for sweet potato bisteeya, 42–44
pickles, Nookie’s: green tomato, turnip, cucumber, and pear variations, 280–81
pine nuts:
chickpea and potato terrine stuffed with spinach, onion, tahini and, 110–12
in Jerusalem-style carrot salad with hot goat cheese crottin, 260–61
in muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
palace pilav: bulgur with almonds, pistachios, mulberries and, 350–51
roasted beets with toasted orange aioli and, 78–79
smoky eggplant purée with Urfa pepper and, 144–45
in sweet potato bisteeya, 42–44
pistachio(s):
chicken lamejun with roasted peaches, sumac and, 94–96
and grapefruit charmoula, shrimp brik with, 89–91
and ground beef kebobs, 236–38
palace bread: syrup-soaked bread pudding with thick cream and, 314–15
palace pilav: bulgur with pine nuts, almonds, mulberries and, 350–51
praline, for poached nectarine stuffed with nougat glacé, 316–19
pita breads, see breads
pizza, scallop, with leeks and fennel seed, 92–93
pizza dough, homemade, 96
pomegranate:
in Armenian bean and walnut pâté, 334–35
molasses, in muhammara: red pepper and walnut purée, 153–55
molasses, in spoon lamb, 22–23
red lentil köfte with tomato, cucumber and, 12–14
popcorn, Rosemary’s spicy caramel, 170–17
poppy seeds, 172–73
recipes with nigella, sesame and, 175–95
pork:
galette of tender, with cumin and cider, 24–25
in homemade sujuk, 220–22
sage-rubbed, with red rice and beans, 298–99
Portuguese bread soup with rock shrimp (acorda), 214–15
potato(es):
in celery root skordalia, 341–42
and chickpea terrine stuffed with pine nuts, spinach, onion, and tahini, 110–12
and fresh pea soup, Fanny’s, 212–13
in halibut cakes with olive oil-lemon sauce, 76–77
just-dug, 292
mashed, with fenugreek, 216–17
risotto with green olives, walnuts, and rosemary, 294–95
in salt cod fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
varieties of, 293
pot de crème, Arabic coffee, 30–31
pumpkin borek, 115–16
purslane, in chopped vegetable salad (fatoush), with crispy pita, yogurt, and tahini, 262–64
Q
quail, Ruth Ann Adams’s rhubarb rose jam with, 310–11
R
raisins:
in lamb steak with Turkish spices and moussaka, 166–69
in Mazy’s jeweled rice, 58–59
raki, baby sole with crab and, 270–71
Ramirez, Fanny, 212
ramps, 150
ras el hannout spice, Moroccan, 16
red lentil köfte with tomato, cucumber, and pomegranate, 12–14
relish (charmoula) of pistachio and grapefruit, shrimp brik with, 89–91
rhubarb rose jam with quail, Ruth Ann Adams’s, 310–11
rice:
Ayfer’s, Swiss chard dolmas with, 117–19
cakes, 65
in egg-lemon soup with saffron and crab, 51–52
Mazy’s jeweled, 58–59
red, sage-rubbed pork with beans and, 298–99
ricotta cheese:
in black kale malfati in chestnut soup with moscato wine, 125–27
and bread dumplings with red wine and porcini mushrooms, 346–48
in Turkish cheese pancakes, 343–45
Riesling wines, 61
Robuchon, Joel, 206
Roden, Claudia, 6
romaine lettuce:
chopped, and cucumber salad with yogurt dressing, 256–57
for ground beef and pistachio kebobs, 236–38
for red lentil köfte with tomato, cucumber, and pomegranate, 12–14
rosemary, 274, 276
recipes with fresh oregano, summer savory, sage, thyme and, 277–99
Rosemary’s spicy caramel popcorn, 170–71
rose petals, 300–301
recipes with edible flowers and, 303–29
S
sabayon, chamomile berry soup with, 312–13
saffron, 38–39
recipes with ginger, vanilla and, 41–69
saganaki, Maria’s shrimp, flambéed with ouzo, 296–97
sage, 274–75
recipes with fresh oregano, summer savory, rosemary, thyme and, 277–99
-rubbed pork with red rice and beans, 298–99
salads:
blood-orange and fennel, Serrano ham with, 85–86
chopped romaine and cucumber with yogurt dressing, 256–57
endive and apple, with grapes, sumac, and pecan labne, 80–82
fatoush: chopped vegetable, with crispy pita, yogurt, and tahini, 262–64
Greek, with winter vegetables, apple, and barrel-aged feta cheese, 234–35
grilled peach and pepper, 254–55
Jerusalem-style carrot, with hot goat cheese crottin, 260–61
melon and tomato, with mozzarella and oregano, 278–79
roasted beets with toasted orange aioli and pine nuts, 78–79
shrimp, melon, and tomato, Maria’s feta sauce with, 336–37
sliced summer tomatoes with basil and walnut tabouleh, 258–59
salmon, 19
seared, with Egyptian garlic and coriander sauce, 20–21
salmon roe, trout spanakopitta with avocado and, 272–73
salsa of tomato, cucumber, and pomegranate, red lentil köfte with, 12–14
salt, 25, 151
salt cod fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
sangria, C-licious orange-coriander, 37
Santa Fe Café, ix
sarikopites: Greek pastries with tuna, fennel, and kasseri cheese, 83–84
Sarkis, Hashim, 329
sauces:
brown butter, squash kibbeh with spiced feta and, 106–8
Egyptian garlic and coriander, seared salmon with, 20–21
lemon aioli, 50
Maria’s feta, with shrimp, melon, and tomato, 336–37
olive oil-lemon, halibut cakes with, 76–77
red wine, salt cod fritters with sweet peppers and, 157–60
red wine and porcini mushroom, ricotta and bread dumplings with, 346–48
tahini, spinach falafel with pickled pears and, 185–87
truffled leek, cod with sweet potater tots and, 289–91
Turkish tarator, fried mussels with, 352–53
sausage, homemade (sujuk), 220–22
scallops:
pizza with leeks and fennel seed, 92–93
seared sea, with orange-saffron butter and rice cakes, 62–65
searing ingredients, 64
Serrano ham with blood-orange and fennel salad, 85–86
sesame seeds, 172, 174
recipes with poppy, nigella and, 175–95
toasting, 174
Sevan Bakery, 95
shallots, in steak tartare, Turkish style, 120–22
shrimp:
acorda: Portuguese bread soup with rock, 214–15
brik with pistachio and grapefruit charmoula, 89–91
with kasseri cheese, fennel, and fenugreek wrapped in shredded phyllo, 206–8
Maria’s, saganaki flambéed with ouzo, 296–97
Maria’s feta sauce with melon, tomato and, 336–37
Sicilian cremolata with sugared almonds, 354–56
skordalia, celery root, 341–42
sole, baby, with crab and raki, 270–71
Sommaripa, Eva, 301
Sortun, Gary, 276
soufflé, eggplant, 265–66
soups:
acorda: Portuguese bread, with rock shrimp, 214–15
black kale malfati in chestnut, with moscato wine, 125–27
Brie, with fried oysters and sage, 282–84
chamomile berry, with chamomile sabayon, 312–13
chicken egg-lemon, with grano and sumac, 87–88
egg-lemon, with saffron and crab, 51–52
Fanny’s fresh pea and two potato, 212–13
favorite yogurt, with toasted pasta and dried mint, 242–43
garlic and almond, 338–40
golden gazpacho with condiments, 210–11
green tomato, with summer savory, 285–86
spanakopitta, trout, with avocado and salmon roe, 272–73
spice blends:
charmoula, for grilled fish, 205
fish, 75
harissa: North African chili paste, 152
homemade curry powder, 209
kebob, 233
Middle Eastern five-spice, 109
Moroccan ras el hannout, 16
Persian, 60
reviving, 3–4, 184
Turkish baharat, for lamb, 232
spinach:
bundles with warm goat cheese, 180–81
chickpea and potato terrine stuffed with pine nuts, onion, tahini and, 110–12
falafel with tahini sauce and pickled pears, 185–87
halibut cooked in milk with cinnamon, fried almonds and, 123–24
in trout spanakopitta with avocado and salmon roe, 272–73
spoon lamb, 22–23
squash:
in Greek salad with winter vegetables, apple, and barrel-aged feta cheese, 234–35
kibbeh with brown butter and spiced feta, 106–8
in salt cod with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
squid, fried, with avocado hummus, 17–18
steak:
grilled skirt, with tomato, caramelized butter, and cumin, 26–27
tartare, Turkish-style, 120–22
Stepanian, Shoushan, 178
strawberry lavender tart, 326–28
string cheese with nigella seeds, Shoushan’s homemade, 178–79
sujuk (sausage), homemade, 220–22
sumac, 70–71
recipes with citrus, fennel seed and, 74–99
summer savory, 274–75
recipes with fresh oregano, sage, rosemary, thyme and, 277–99
sweet potato(es):
bisteeya, 42–44
tots, cod with truffled leek sauce and, 289–91
Swiss chard:
dolmas with Ayfer’s rice, 117–19
monkfish with ginger, crème fraîche, and seared, 53–54
in spicy fideos with chickpeas, vanilla, and saffron, 47–49
swordfish kebobs with nigella seed vinaigrette, 190–91
syrups:
for black walnut baklava, 129–31
champagne-cardamom, künefe with, 34–35
jallab, in Dunia’s iced tea, 329
lavender, for strawberry lavender tart, 326–28
-soaked bread pudding with thick cream and pistachios (palace bread), 314–15
tropical fruit, frozen jasmine soufflé with, 323–25
T
tabouleh, basil and walnut, sliced summer tomatoes with, 258–59
tagine, veal, with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
tahini:
chickpea and potato terrine stuffed with pine nuts, spinach, onion and, 110–12
fatoush: chopped vegetable salad with crispy pita, yogurt and, 262–64
sauce, spinach falafel with pickled pear and, 185–87
tamarind paste, in braised beef short ribs with vanilla-glazed carrots, 66–67
tarts:
caramelized onion, with poppy seeds, bacon, and dates, 182–84
strawberry lavender, 326–28
tea, Dunia’s iced, 329
thyme, 274, 276
recipes with fresh oregano, summer savory, sage, rosemary and, 277–99
tomato(es), 269
in acorda: Portuguese bread soup with rock shrimp, 214–15
cranberry beans stewed with cinnamon and, 113–14
in golden gazpacho with condiments, 210–11
green, see green tomatoes
grilled skirt steak with caramelized butter, cumin and, 26–27
in ground beef and pistachio kebobs, 236–38
hot buttered hummus with basturma and, 200–202
Maria’s feta sauce with shrimp, melon and, 336–37
in Maria’s shrimp saganaki flambéed with ouzo, 296–97
and melon salad with mozzarella and oregano, 278–79
in moussaka, lamb steak with Turkish spices and, 166–69
peeling and seeding, 104
red lentil köfte with cucumber, pomegranate and, 12–14
in ricotta and bread dumplings with red wine and porcini mushrooms, 346–48
in salt cod fritters with red wine and sweet peppers, 157–60
in seared salmon with Egyptian garlic and coriander sauce, 20–21
-sesame jam, roasted crispy duck with, 192–94
sliced summer, with basil and walnut tabouleh, 258–59
in spicy fideos with chickpeas, vanilla, and saffron, 47–49
sun-dried, in harissa (North African chili paste), 152
in veal tagine with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
trout spanakopitta with avocado and salmon roe, 272–73
truffled leek sauce, cod with sweet potater tots and, 289–91
tuna:
deviled eggs with black olives and, 203–4
Greek pastries (sarikopites) with fennel, kasseri cheese and, 83–84
Turkish baharat spice mix for lamb, 232
Turkish cheese pancakes, 343–45
Turkish coffee, 32–33
Turkish-style grilling, 101
Turkish-style savory crackers (crick- cracks), 176–77
Turkish-style steak tartare, 120–22
Turkish tarator sauce, fried mussels with, 352–53
turmeric, 196–98
recipes with curry powder, fenugreek and, 199–225
turnip, for Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
tzatziki, beet, 252–53
U
Uglesich, Anthony and Gail, 282
Uglesich restaurant, 287
Uglesich Restaurant Cookbook (Uglesich), 282
Unsal, Ayfer, x, 28–29, 95, 117, 128, 176
Urfa chilies, 140–42
recipes with Aleppo, paprika and, 143–71
V
vanilla, 38–40
recipes with saffron, ginger and, 41–69
veal:
stock, for Brie soup with fried oysters and sage, 282–84
tagine with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
vegetable(s):
salad, chopped (fatoush), with crispy pita, yogurt, and tahini, 262–64
suggestions for Nookie’s pickles, 281
winter, Greek salad with apple, barrel-aged feta cheese and, 234–35
see also specific vegetables
vinegar:
balsamic, in braised beef short ribs with vanilla-glazed carrots, 66–67
white wine, for Nookie’s pickles, 280–81
W
walnut(s):
and basil tabouleh, sliced summer tomatoes with, 258–59
and bean pâté, Armenian, 334–35
and chicken pâté with smoky paprika, 146–48
in chopped romaine and cucumber salad with yogurt dressing, 256–57
in Persian fried chicken, 56–57
potato risotto with green olives, rosemary and, 294–95
and red pepper purée (muhammara), 153–55
watermelon:
granité and frozen yogurt parfait with real rose petal jam, 320–22
Maria’s feta sauce with shrimp, tomato and, 336–37
wine(s):
Beaujolais, 264
biodynamic farming and, 225
Greek, 244
moscato, black kale malfati in chestnut soup with, 125–27
poached figs in spiced red, with crème fraîche Bavarian, 132–35
red, in spoon lamb, 22–23
red, ricotta and bread dumplings with porcini mushrooms and, 346–48
red, salt cod fritters with sweet peppers and, 157–60
Riesling and Gewürztraminer, 61
rosé, 357
sparkling, in künefe with champagne-cardamom syrup, 34–35
sparkling, in Paopao cocktail, 36
white, in braised beef short ribs with vanilla-glazed carrots, 66–67
white, in chicken and walnut pâté with smoky paprika, 146–48
white, in C-licious orange-coriander sangria, 37
white, in egg-lemon soup with saffron and crab, 51–52
white, in fish fumet, 161
white, in fried mussels with Turkish tarator sauce, 352–53
white, in galette of tender pork with cumin and cider, 24–25
white, in Istanbul-style artichokes, 267–68
white, in roast chicken stuffed with basturma and kasseri cheese, 223–25
white, in veal tagine with Moroccan spices and almond couscous, 162–65
winter vegetables, Greek salad with apple, barrel-aged feta cheese and, 234–35
Wolfert, Paula, 88, 229, 269
Woodward, Sarah, 350
Wright, Clifford, 146
Y
yogurt, 330–31
in beet tzatziki, 252–53
dressing, chopped romaine and cucumber salad with, 256–57
fatoush: chopped vegetable salad with crispy pita, tahini and, 262–64
favorite, soup with toasted pasta and dried mint, 242–43
frozen, parfait and watermelon granité with real rose petal jam, 320–22
grano with Greek, and orange blossom honey, 304–5
for grilled skirt steak with tomato, caramelized butter, and cumin, 26–27
in ground beef and pistachio kebobs, 236–38
Leslie’s homemade, 333
in Persian fried chicken 56–57
recipes with nuts, cheese and, 332–56
in rice cakes, 65
yufka dough:
homemade, for Turkish cheese pancakes, 343–45
in pumpkin borek, 115–16
Z
za’atar, 228, 230
recipes with dried mint, dried oregano and, 231–47
Zencefil restaurant, 12, 15, 267
Zeytinoglu, Hamza, 146
zucchini fritters with nasturtium aioli, 308–9