Ever since the book Red Wine With Fish was published twenty-five years ago, gastronomes in the know have been happily wolfing down their poisson with a lively red. And yet old rules die hard, especially when they are perpetuated by pop culture. Take Parks and Recreation’s moody Craig Middlebrook, who while auditioning to be a sommelier, hilariously exclaims, “What kind of monster orders red with fish?!” Even James Bond has dissed the pairing, when, in From Russia With Love, he confirms the villain’s identity by noticing his seemingly poor taste: “Red wine with fish. Well, that should have told me something.”
British secret agents notwithstanding, red wine can be delightful with seafood, especially when the red is relatively light bodied, crisp, and low in tannin. The reach-for choice is a light-style Pinot Noir, which is why Oregon Pinot and fresh salmon is as classically Oregonian as the old-growth forests and bearded bartenders. You get a gold star if the salmon is grilled or wood smoked, as Pinot’s lightly oaked cherry-spice profile flatters the smoke kissed. It need not be salmon, either. Any rich, oily fish, such as tuna, trout, or mackerel, has the intensity to stand up to a lighter red. An accompanying savory or earthy sauce, such as one featuring mushrooms, will build an even stronger bridge to a red wine.
Pinot Noir is just the launchpad, as lighter, tangier styles of Rioja, Chianti, and even Zinfandel fit the bill, as do exotic delicate reds, such as ones from the Loire, Blaufränkisch from Germany, Zweigelt from Austria, and the sommelier-darling, Poulsard from France’s Jura region.
But can oysters and shellfish join our harmonious voyage on the red sea? A hearty “aye” to that, though the dour-minded find that matching them with red wine can sometimes leave an unpleasant tinfoil sensation in the mouth. That may be the case with hefty, tannic reds, but slurp your Beausoleil oysters with a chilled, svelte, low-tannin Beaujolais and your sailing will be smooth.