Including the Rätikon and Verwall Groups
By contrast with the Western Alps where the various mountain groups generally cover a large area comprising numerous valley systems, Austria appears from the map to host a surprising number of Alpine chains; far more than a country of this size would normally warrant. In truth many of these are simply neighbouring massifs that border a single district, and which have been conveniently named after a local valley by those who live in their shadow. Thus we have the Ötztal Alps, Stubai Alps and Zillertal Alps, for example, that are easily located by reference to their ‘home’ valley. In our survey of the Eastern Alps of Austria though, a number of other groups will be gathered together under one chapter heading, such as the Northern Limestone Alps, while just a few of the more important regions will be subjected to closer individual scrutiny; among them each of those mentioned above. So it is that we begin with a trio of neighbouring groups whose total area is considerably less in extent than many of those chains previously described, but whose close proximity provides the walker with an opportunity to drift from one to another as the whim decrees, and whose scenic quality is invariably inspiring.
With Germany to the north, Switzerland to the south and west, the tiny principality of Liechtenstein neatly contained in a block of 157 square kilometres to the south-west, and with Tirol to the east, Vorarlberg is Austria’s westernmost and second smallest of its nine provinces. Cutting right through the centre, and effectively dividing it into north and south, the Klostertal carries the Feldkirch–Bludenz–Landeck highway – the main link with the rest of the country across (or beneath) the Arlberg Pass which straddles the provincial border with Tirol. To the north of this divide the Lechtaler Alps form part of the Northern Limestone Alps, but to the south the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps follow the Austro–Swiss border, while the Verwall (or Ferwall) group is contained within an inverted triangle of valleys: those of Montafon and the Paznauntal forming the down-strokes of the V, and the linking valleys on either side of the Arlberg Pass closing that V with a bar to the north, thereby completing the triangle. Of these mountains the Rätikon Alps are composed of limestone, while the Silvretta marks the western end of a long crystalline band that stretches across much of southern Austria; a mountainous band comprising the so-called Hochgebirge.
Although the three districts are conveniently brought together here under a common heading, it will be easier to outline their walking potential if we look at them separately. For this we begin with the Verwall group whose identity is rather different to that of its neighbours to the south.
Despite the fact that a handful of peaks exceed 3000 metres, the Verwall group gives the impression of being somewhat lower than either the Rätikon, which has no 3000 metre summits, or the Silvretta, which has many. Cecil Davies once described them (in The Mountains of Europe) as ‘... solemn mountains of darkly coloured rock, with steep flanks and corries filled with stony rubble.’ By contrast with their close neighbours in the Silvretta, these mountains are devoid of all but their last glacial remnants, and reveal little permanent snow. They are nonetheless bold but welcoming peaks, their abrupt walls interspersed with green hills and hollows and glens bright with tarns – in addition to those more solemn features of rock and rubble noted by Davies. They have an abundance of climbing routes; summits too that may be reached by little more than a vigorous uphill walk, others that demand an exciting scramble, while there’s a refreshing supply of walking trails that criss-cross from one side to the next. Deep little glens bite into their flanks, effectively sub-dividing the range into even smaller groups and, without reference to provincial boundaries, intrude into both Vorarlberg and Tirol.
As we have seen, the northern limit of the Verwall group is drawn by the Klostertal and Stanzer Tal, the two valleys linked by the 1793 metre Arlberg Pass (crossed as long ago as AD945), on the eastern side of which lies the ever-popular winter sports resort of St Anton. Access from the north, then, is either by the major highway of the Arlbergstrasse, or by the Feldkirch–Landeck–Innsbruck railway line which tunnels beneath the pass. From St Anton a narrow road slips into the Verwalltal, one of the central glens in the northern part of the district; another runs parallel to this into the Moostal, thus providing two easy access points, and with accommodation available in Alpenverein huts. Of these, the Konstanzer hut sits at a junction of glens deep within the Verwalltal; the Darmstädter hut has a glorious location at the head of the Moostal and below the Kuchenspitze, at 3170 metres, the highest of the Verwall mountains. A high route links these two huts across the 2739 metre Kuchenjöchl. Immediately to the north of this col the small summit of the Scheibler is worth aiming for, since it rewards with arguably the finest mountain panorama of the district.
Other access routes for walkers coming from the north are via Klosterle and Stuben, both of which are located on the Klostertal side of the Arlberg Pass. From Klosterle the Stubener Weg crosses the mountain wall west of the Kaltenberg and then divides; one path drops into the Gaflunatal, the other branches east along the Pfluntal glen to the Konstanzer hut. The route from Stuben, our second entry point, also aims for the Konstanzer hut passing first the Kaltenberg hut. This is a trail of high regard, and a little more demanding than the previous route. It passes below the Kaltenberg glacier, skirts a tarn and crosses the 2573 metre Gstansjöchl before swooping down to the Pfluntal just short of its junction with the Verwalltal.
From the south a public road served by bus climbs out of the Paznauntal a short distance upstream of Galtür, and goes as far as the dammed Kops lake in beautiful rolling countryside that surrounds the Zeinisjoch. This pass, and also that of the broad, tarn-bright saddle of the Winterjöchl to the north, forms a watershed between tributaries of the Rhine and the Danube; one whose outlet is the North Sea, the other which flows to the Black Sea. The Zeinisjoch is of particular geographical significance since the Zeinisbach which rises just above the pass, divides in two near the actual joch, with one branch spilling south-westward to the Montafon valley (and thence to the Rhine), whereas the south-east stream flows down to the Paznauntal and, via the Trisanna and the Inn, eventually to the Danube. Footpaths follow both these infant streams. Others traipse across pool-speckled pastures to the south, enjoy views of inverted mountain peaks and, from the upper ridges, gaze off to the Silvretta where an impressive row of glaciated summits outline a bold horizon. Routes also descend to the Bielerhöhe, the road pass linking Montafon and the Paznauntal at the Silvretta Stausee, but the Zeinisjoch is also a good springboard from which to explore northward beyond the Verbella Alpe and into the very heart of Verwall across the Winterjöchl, on which sits the Neue Heilbronner hut with the twin Schiedsee tarns nearby casting reflections of the impressive Patteriol (3056m) and its rugged consorts.
In the far west the Silbertal makes a long inroad towards the heart of the Verwall from Schruns, the major resort of Montafon where Ernest Hemingway spent the winters of 1924–25 and 1925–26 writing, skiing and gambling. Named from the mining of silver carried out there prior to the 16th century, the nearby village of Silbertal may be reached by bus from Schruns. Upstream the valley is joined by a tributary from the north, but further still at the Untere Gafluner Alp it splits either side of a dividing spur with one glen becoming the Gaflunatal, the other continuing as the upper Silbertal. Again, walking routes abound. One option would be to make a circuit of that dividing spur along the Emil-Roth-Weg. Another possibility is to cross the Silbertaler Winterjöchl (with a direct view of the jagged Patteriol opposite) into the Schönverwalltal glen and either wander downstream to the Konstanzer hut, or upvalley to the Neue Heilbronner. A third option is to follow through the Gaflunatal, then break away northwards on a trail that climbs over the walling ridge via the modest little Reutlinger hut, and then continues down to the Klostertal.
The Verwall group seen from the Radsattel, above the Wiesbadener Hut
The Verwall’s eastern edge is flanked by the Paznauntal, a lovely gentle valley that makes a moat for both the Verwall and Silvretta mountains. On the Verwall side a cable lift alleviates some of the uphill struggle of gaining high trails. Yet high routes score across and along these green hills, with more huts inviting an overnight stay and making possible a rich assortment of routes. From Kappl, on the left bank of the Trisanna, a trail loops its way up the hillside overlooking the village, goes into the little Blanka glen, then crosses the Kappler Joch (2672m) and descends 200 metres or so to the Austrian Alpine Club’s Edmund-Graf hut. Originally built in 1885 this enjoys a wonderful situation in morning shadow of the Hoher Riffler. That mountain rises to the north-east, the 3168 metre summit marked by a cross, and the steep little Pettneuer glacier hanging in a corrie between the Kleiner and Hoher Riffler. Ascent from the hut is highly recommended. There is nothing unduly difficult in the route to the south summit, although a short stretch of grade II climbing is required to gain the main peak. The panorama revealed from the crown is quite magnificent, while an alternative walking route from the hut goes down through the Malfontal along a jeep track to Pettneu in the Stanzer Tal; another follows the Riffler Weg (which becomes the Kieler Weg on the south side of the Schmalzgruben Scharte) to the Niederelbe hut.
Another route worth considering from the Paznauntal begins in Ischgl, rises through the Madleintal to a little tarn under the dolomitic Seeköpfe, then crosses the 2786 metre Doppelsee Scharte to gain the Darmstädter hut in about five hours. This could be used as the first stage in a two-day north-bound crossing of the Verwall, the second stage consisting of an easy stroll down through the Moostal to St Anton.
Having given a very rough outline of the district, it is now time to offer suggestions for a multi-day tour or two to add to those already made. A glance at the map immediately produces a litany of ideas, the first of which makes a long traverse of the south side from Schruns in the Montafon valley to Valzur, midway between Ischgl and Galtür in the Paznauntal. Basically this is a two-day traverse, plus time to reach the Wormser hut where a marked route begins. The hut is easily reached by cableway from Schruns to Kapellalpe, followed by a 15 minute stroll. Unsurprisingly this makes a very popular day out for visitors to Montafon, and it may be that you prefer an alternative approach. In which case take the footpath from Silbertal that climbs southward to the Schwarzsee tarn cupped below the Hochjoch, then via the Kreuzjoch to reach the hut. This involves a height gain of more than 1300 metres, and all the early part of the walk is through forest. From the Wormser hut the Wormser Höhenweg traces a meandering line as far as the Heilbronner hut on the Winterjöchl. This 20 kilometre trail makes a demanding eight-or nine-hour day, but with a whole series of fine viewpoints to enjoy. The next section of the traverse is comparatively gentle. By taking another marked trail heading roughly south-east the Friedrikshafener hut is reached in about three and a half hours, followed by a plunge downhill to Valzur.
Instead of making a traverse of the district, however, you may prefer a circuit, finishing back in Schruns. Such a tour is feasible by diverting from the traverse at the Neue Heilbronner hut. Here you simply wander down valley a short distance, then veer west over the Silbertaler Winterjöchl and walk all the way through the lush Silbertal – there’s a choice of accommodation on offer long before you reach Schruns. But let’s suppose you are more interested in going to St Anton, and have the inclination to explore something of the Verwall heartland on the way. For this a minimum of four days should be allowed; but much better to ease the route into five stages, including a first one up to the Wormser hut via Silbertal, and the second day spent walking along the classic Wormser Höhenweg. Once again Heilbronner is the point at which the next phase of the route is determined; in this instance we make our subsequent destination the Konstanzer hut. There are two ways to achieve this, but the first (two hours directly down the Schönverwalltal) is not really worth taking unless the weather is such that a recommended high route alternative is out of the question. This high route goes by way of the Wannensee tarn and the 2683 metre Wannenjöchl, a col in the splendid ridge south of the Patteriol, then down into the Fasultal which leads to the Konstanzer hut. Although this should take no more than about four hours in good conditions, there’s much to see and to enjoy, and it’s a good preparation for the next stage which leads across the Kuchenjöchl to the Darmstädter hut. Although it may well be possible to continue down to St Anton after this crossing, the Darmstädter hut is not one to scurry away from in undue haste. Spend a night there and appreciate the charm of its location, then amble down through the Moostal on the fifth day.
In his guidebook to Austria’s mountains, Cecil Davies outlines another hut-to-hut route which makes a loop of the eastern Verwall from St Anton to Pettneu. In this he suggests as the first stage a three-hour walk through the Verwalltal to the Konstanzer hut, and the second a crossing of the Kuchenjöchl to the Darmstädter hut including, for those inclined, the ascent of the Scheibler. For the third day Davies chooses the Hoppe-Seyler Weg to the Niederelbe hut for its witness to some grand rock scenery, and with a summit or two to collect from the hut. Day four follows the Kieler Weg and Riffler Weg as far as the Edmund-Graf hut, then wanders down the Malfontal on the final stage to Pettneu in the Stanzer Tal.
This brief outline of routes does little more than scratch the surface of possibilities; suffice to say that the Verwall group will repay the attention of any mountain walker, especially if he or she intends afterwards to move on to one of its more southerly neighbours. Which is precisely what we will do here.
Tracing a rough south-easterly line along the borders of Liechtenstein, Austria and Switzerland, the Rätikon Alps present a ragged – in places almost Dolomitic – skyline; an eruption of grey limestone peaks wearing aprons of scree, eased here and there with green ridge and projecting spur. Not one of the summits quite reaches 3000 metres, the highest being the popular Schesaplana at 2965 metres, so these are not big mountains by standards set by the Western Alps. However, neither bulk nor extremes of altitude are essential to the enjoyment of mountain scenery, and the walker will appreciate a particularly rugged form of beauty here, with sufficient huts and valley bases from which to explore the best on offer.
On the Swiss flank the valley of Prättigau (Val Pratens, the ‘valley of meadows’), which flows between Klosters and Landquart, marks the region’s southern extent, with a few tributary glens draining to it from the Rätikon ridge crest. On the Austrian side it’s the Montafon valley that forms the chain’s northern limit, and while trails undulate along each flank close against abrupt and impressive crags, there are no less than 12 walkers’ passes that cross the frontier ridge. The Rätikon Höhenweg Sud makes a traverse of the Swiss flank, while a parallel route on the Austrian side of the border is known as the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord. Both are equally fine, if relatively short, outings of three or four days, but by use of one or other of the passes mentioned above, the two linear routes could be made into a circular, or perhaps a figure-of-eight, tour.
Being the highest of the Rätikon Alps, the Schesaplana is a popular summit for both walkers and climbers
St Antönien nestles among pastures on the south slope of the Rätikon Alps
The Rhaetian railway journeys between Landquart and Klosters, providing a reliable service throughout Prättigau for non-motorised visitors. Access to the mountains is usually made either from Grüsch (for the Schesaplana), or Küblis for the Sulzfluh and neighbouring peaks. An infrequent Postbus service goes from the latter up a beautiful valley to the village of St Antönien, where a minor road continues to Partnun. From St Antönien a footpath climbs northward to a little tarn on the way to the Garschina hut at the foot of the dramatic Sulzfluh (2818m). Pushing north-east from Klosters Dorf, the Schlappintal is much shorter than its neighbours to the west, although above Schlappin it curves sharply to the right and flows parallel with the frontier crest.
There are three SAC huts on the southern slopes of the Rätikon (the Garschina, Schesaplana and Enderlin – this last-named being located at the western end of the chain above Maienfeld); there’s one on the Bettlerjoch belonging to the Liechtensteiner Alpenverein (the Pfälzer hut), while the Austrian side boasts almost a dozen huts of the German and Austrian Alpenverein.
As we have already discovered, the Montafon valley forms one of the outlines of the Verwall group and rises south-eastward from Bludenz to the Bielerhöhe, the lake-trapped saddle traversed by the sinuous Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse. However, before reaching the Bielerhöhe the border between the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps is reached at the straggling village of St Gallenkirch, the dividing line running through the Gargellental to the south.
It is from the Montafon valley that we will concentrate most of our attention on the northern flanks of the Rätikon Alps, beginning at Bludenz, south of which the River Ill flows into the main Klostertal. In fact the old town stands at the intersection of no less than five valleys, two of which give access to the Rätikon mountains. The first of these is the Brandner Tal, which digs into the mountains south-west of Bludenz. The winter sports resort of Brand lies 12 kilometres into the valley, but the road (bus from Bludenz station) continues as far as the Lünersee cableway. The Lünersee is a high lake dammed to service an important hydroelectric scheme. When the dam was built the rising waters drowned the second of the Douglass huts (the first had been destroyed by avalanche in the winter of 1876–77), but a third building to carry the name of this British mountaineer and industrialist, now overlooks the reservoir beside the cableway terminus at an altitude of 1976 metres, while less than an hour’s walk away the Totalp hut stands on the slopes of the Schesaplana.
This peak is a natural lure for walkers based for a day or two in or above the Brandner Tal. The ascent is quite straightforward, but whilst there is no glacier to contend with when tackled from the Lünersee, the approach invariably crosses one or two snowfields, and for inexperienced Alpine walkers it could be a serious undertaking. For all its modest height and relatively innocent appeal (by Alpine standards, that is), the Schesaplana still deserves to be taken seriously and the German guidebook makes a point of warning ill-equipped and inexperienced tourists against attempting it. From Brand a route via the Oberzalim and Mannheimer huts, is quite strenuous (‘rather fatiguing’ is how it was described 100 years ago) and takes from five to six hours to achieve. But from the Douglass hut three hours should be sufficient in good summer conditions (two from the Totalp hut). Being the highest of the Rätikon peaks the summit panorama is vast. Here is how Baedeker described it in 1888:
The magnificent view embraces the whole of Swabia as far as Ulm on the N., the Vorarlberg and Algäu Alps to the N. E., the Oetzthal, Stubai, and Zillerthal Alps to the E., and to the S. and W. the Swiss Alps from the Silvretta and Bernina to the Gotthard and the Bernese Alps, the Prättigau, the valley of the Rhine, the Appenzell Mts., and the Lake of Constance; immediately below us on the N. are the extensive Brandner Glacier and the Brandner-Thal.
The big block of the Kirchlispitzen carries the Austro-Swiss border beyond the Cavell Joch
West of Schesaplana the Kleine Furka (Chlei Furgga) crosses the frontier ridge between the Schesaplana hut on the Swiss side of the range (Seewis is the nearest village), and the lovely Gamperdonatal which drains north alongside the Liechtenstein border and spills into the River Ill between Bludenz and Feldkirch. Two routes on the Austrian side link up with the Kleine Furka crossing; one that comes from Brand in the Brandner Tal, the other from Nenzinger Himmel in the Gamperdonatal. By combining these a loop trip could be created, using the Oberzalim hut for accommodation should the plan be to extend it into a two-day tour.
East of Schesaplana the frontier ridge stutters above the Lünersee over assorted minor summits, then drops beyond the Kirchlispitzen among imposing crags to the Schweizertor (2137m), the ‘Swiss Gate’. On the north side of this the Rellstal flows down to the lower Montafon valley. The Rellstal is the next glen to the east of the Brandner Tal, and the dividing ridge is topped by the pyramid-shaped Zimba, locally known as the Matterhorn of Austria. At the mouth of the valley sits Vandans, an old settlement of Rhaeto-Roman origins whose houses, hotels and bridges are almost swamped in summer beneath an extravagence of flowers. From it an unsurfaced private road projects deeply into the Rellstal, where a trail climbs out of the glen to gain the Lünersee and the Douglass hut, while another continues from the roadhead up and over the Schweizertor, then down into the Swiss glen that leads to Schuders and, eventually, to Schiers. A third trail option takes walkers to the DAV’s Lindauer hut set appealingly beneath the three towers of the Drei Türme; a romantic location with an adjacent well-kept alpine garden. An alternative route of approach to this hut crosses the Schweizertor, where the scenery is transformed with savage abruptness, then makes a traverse of the Swiss slopes of the Drusenfluh before returning through the Drusentor which lies above the Lindauer hut. Walkers planning to spend a night or two here, might contemplate a circuit of the massive Drusenfluh or, should they be experienced scramblers, be tempted to give part of a day to the ascent of one or more of the Drei Türme towers – but note that the smallest of these should be left to dedicated rock climbers. There’s also a brace of north-bound walking routes from the hut, both of which eventually lead to Latschau, Tschagguns and the Montafon valley.
Tschagguns and Schruns virtually face each other across the River Ill, but whereas Schruns occupies the mouth of the Silbertal with the Verwall mountains beyond, Tschagguns provides immediate access to two glens draining the Rätikon Alps; the Gauertal and Gampadelstal. Latschau huddles by a small lake at the entrance to the Gauertal, and is connected to Vandans by chairlift, while a funicular climbs the hillside behind Latschau up to the Golm where high trails strike out along a green ridge and down into neighbouring glens. The Lindauer hut sits at the head of the Gauertal with both the Drei Türme and Sulzfluh as a backdrop. On the north-east slope of the Sulzfluh, the Tilisuna hut overlooks the little Tilisunasee in a bowl of pastureland; the two huts being linked by an energetic half-day trek along one of the loveliest sections of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord which takes in the Bilken Grat.
But one of the most popular ways of reaching the Tilisuna hut from the Montafon valley is by way of the chairlift from Tschagguns to Grabs, followed by a steady climb south to Alp Alpila, then to the little pool of the Tobelsee and skirting the 2460 metre Schwarzhorn before coming to the hut in about two and a half hours. Arriving at the hut with time to spare, the ascent of the Sulzfluh is seen almost as an obligation; there are no difficulties, but the way is interesting and the summit panorama quite magnificent.
Having maintained a rough easterly trend across the head of several valleys, the frontier ridge now makes a severe southerly turn above the Tilisuna hut and climbs over the Weissplatte (2630m), the mountain that blocks the Gampadelstal. Almost at the head of this glen the Plasseggenjoch entices a trail across the border where it then forks; one option leads down to Partnum and St Antönien, another edges west to the Garschina hut, while a third choice renounces the pleasures of descent on the Swiss side and merely skirts the upper slopes (fixed rope safeguards), returns to the Austrian side at the Sarotlapass (2389m) and then heads directly downhill to Gargellen.
The Gargellental is the uppermost glen on the Austrian flank of the Rätikon Alps, the longest tributary of the Montafon, and the dividing line between the Rätikon and Silvretta districts. The valley is narrow and wooded in its lower reaches, then more open where it forks above the resort of Gargellen. Striking south-eastward the Vergaldatal pokes into the edge of the Silvretta, while the main valley continues southward before curving as the Wintertal under the frontier ridge among broad meadows and alpenroses. South of Gargellen, and before the glen makes its curve, the small, mostly unguarded Madrisa hut sits on the left bank of the stream at 1660 metres.
There’s plenty of good walking here, both in the valley itself and across a variety of frontier cols. These passes are listed in a counter-clockwise direction round the head of the valley, beginning south-west of Gargellen at the 2379 metre St Antönierjoch which gives access to the St Antöniental. Next is the Gafierjoch which is linked on the Swiss side with the Madrisajoch (2612m); then comes the Schlappinerjoch at the very head of the valley. This is an old crossing, formerly one of the ‘wine routes’ which these days makes an obvious choice for those planning to visit Schlappin or Klosters. Recollecting the wine trade, the multi-day route of the Via Valtellina uses the Schlappinerjoch on its way from Bregenz. Beyond the col it then marches across the south-eastern corner of Switzerland and into the Italian Valtellina.
On the approach to Gargellen from the Montafon valley, the village appears to be dominated by the 2770 metre peak of Madrisa. Behind this, just south of the frontier ridge, rises the larger Madrisahorn (2826m). A three-day circuit of this ‘home mountain’ of the Gargellental could be made by crossing the Schlappinerjoch from either the village or the Madrisa hut, and descending the Schlappintal to Klosters where a night is spent. The next day wander down through Prättigau to Küblis, then ascend the St Antöniental to spend the second night in St Antönien itself. The final day crosses back into Austria via the St Antönierjoch with a return to Gargellen.
A rewarding one-day circular walk at the head of the Gargellental involves going south from Gargellen towards the Schlappinerjoch, then swinging left into the Wintertal, and steadily rising past a few scattered farm buildings to the Valzifenzer-Joch (2485m) on a ridge spur that separates the Wintertal from the Vergaldatal. Descending the east flank of this spur the route (not always clear on the ground) eventually hits a major trail in the valley bed, then follows this glen downstream all the way back to Gargellen.
Finally, at the head of the Vergaldatal a route crosses the Vergaldnerjoch and continues beyond the limits of Rätikon to the Tübinger hut, first of the DAV’s Silvretta mountain bases. Having thus reached the eastern limit of the Rätikon Alps in a brief overview of the various glens that flow from it, it is time to look at a multi-day west to east traverse along part of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord which flanks the Montafon valley.
Rätikon Höhenweg Nord
The complete höhenweg is a multi-day extravaganza that begins on the outskirts of Feldkirch, follows the Liechtenstein border southward, then crosses that border and cuts through the south-eastern corner of the principality before returning to Austrian soil and heading roughly eastward along the mid-height flank of the mountains. In the two English-language guidebooks that include this route, both suggest a much shorter version, with a start being made at the Lünersee above the Brandner Tal. This is perfectly understandable, since the Douglass hut on the shoreline is easily reached by public transport, which is useful for those who have spent a day or so travelling from home to get there. The approach route therefore is by bus from the railway station at Bludenz to the valley station of the Lünersee cable-car which, in a few painless minutes, swings you up to the Douglass hut. On arrival there an hour and a half’s stroll round the lake will go some way towards salving your conscience and easing muscles of travel-ache. A better alternative, of course, should you have the necessary time and inclination, is to wander up to the Totalp hut above the lake to the south-west.
The three-day tour to Gargellen consists of short (half-day) stages with optional extras. But none should decry prospects of a four hour walk from one hut to the next, for with fine scenery to absorb, those four hours could so easily stretch to six or more. The first real day’s trekking along the high route, then, is a four-and-a-half-hour stage from either the Douglass or Totalp huts to the Lindauer hut. Being well-marked a popular trail leaves the lake to rise over grassy hillsides to the Verajöchl (2330m), enjoying on the way views of the north face of the Kirchlispitzen, the Schesaplana behind to the west, and the big, bold Drusenfluh ahead to the east. A 200 metre descent then leads to the gash of the Schweizertor with its abandoned customs house, where a decision needs to be addressed with regard to the onward route.
The standard Rätikon Höhenweg remains on the Austrian flank, rises to the third pass of the day (the Öfa Pass), then makes a longish descent of the Sporentobel below the towering Drusenfluh before arriving at the Lindauer hut. However, an alternative trail cuts round the Swiss flank of the Drusenfluh, makes a loss then gain of about 200 metres in height (with a desolate stony bowl in between), and returns to the northern side at the Drusentor whence the Lindauer hut may be reached via slopes of scree and old moraines. The standard route is very fine; but the Swiss alternative provides a different outlook and adds a further two hours to the route.
The unmistakable Drei Türme in the Rätikon Alps
Stage two is even shorter than the previous day’s, requiring probably no more than three hours in all for the direct Lindauer to the Tilisuna hut route, despite the fact that the trail is steep in places and with many windings. But this could be seen as a distinct advantage, for the extra time won from the afternoon may be used in climbing the Sulzfluh which forms a powerful backdrop to the Tilisuna. The day begins among pinewoods, then up the vegetated rim of the scenic Bilken Grat where the trail exchanges pale limestone of the Sulzfluh for the surprise of dark igneous-metamorphic rock, and then on gaining the Schwarze Scharte (2336m), one discovers green-black serpentine. From the ‘Black Col’ the Verwall group is seen beyond the Montafon valley, while just below lies the Tilisunasee – the hut itself cannot be seen from here, although it will only take about 20 minutes of descent to reach it.
While the Lindauer hut was snug on the edge of pinewoods at the base of the Drei Türme, the setting of the Tilisuna hut is more open and spacious, the Sulzfluh rising in sprawling terraces of limestone pavement behind, green pastureland ahead. Conditions being favourable, having booked in and taken refreshment at the hut, it would be worth setting out for an ascent of the Sulzfluh. There is nothing technically difficult about the normal route, for there are guiding cairns, glorious views, and the large summit cross as a constant lure. And from that crown a fine panorama includes the plunging south flank that disappears into blue misted valleys.
The third and final stage of this high route tacks south-eastward to the frontier crest at the Grubenpass. Instead of crossing into Switzerland, however, the trail remains left of the border and, heading south now, makes a traverse of the east flank of the Weissplatte before gaining the crest once more at the Plasseggenjoch which marks the head of the Gampadelstal. At this point the Höhenweg Nord passes through to the Swiss side and follows a belvedere of a trail aiming south-east to the attractive Sarotlapass. Through the pass, guarded by towering walls, the hillside falls away into the deep and wooded Gargellental. The trail twists its way down to Röbialpe, and from there to the welcome of Gargellen.
Rätikon Höhenweg Nord – Route Summary | |
| Day 1: | Douglass Hut (or Totalp Hut) – Schweizertor – Lindauer Hut |
| Day 2: | Lindauer Hut – Schwarze Scharte – Tilisuna Hut (ascent of Sulzfluh optional) |
| Day 3: | Tilisuna Hut – Plasseggenjoch – Sarotlapass – Gargellen |
| The route is waymarked and there should be no orientation problems. Under normal summer conditions there’s nothing difficult about the route; snow patches may be lying in the early part of the season, but there are neither glaciers nor permanent snowfields to contend with. As it’s a very short hut-to-hut route, walkers with time at their disposal are urged to consider linking it with a crossing of the neighbouring Silvretta range. Details of this continuing route will be found at the end of the following sub-chapter which deals with the Silvretta Alps. | |
Of the three districts included in this chapter the Silvretta Alps are the most scenically dramatic and appealing, thanks largely to the glaciers that plaster many north-facing slopes. This glacial coverage extends to a small degree on the southern, Swiss, side of the range, yet Piz Linard, the highest of its mountains which stands well within Swiss territory and overlooks the Lower Engadine, has no permanent ice at all.
The boundaries of the Silvretta group follow obvious river valleys. Those on the Austrian flank are the Ill (Montafon) and Trisanna (Paznaun) on either side of the Bielerhöhe running along the northern edge, with the Gargellental on the west and Fimbertal on the east. The Swiss boundaries are formed by the Schlappinabach above Klosters on the west, then south from there to Davos, and through the Flüelatal, over the Flüela Pass and down to the River Inn at Susch in the Lower Engadine. This is the southernmost point of the district, from where the unmarked boundary follows the Inn downstream to its junction with Val Sinestra. Follow Val Sinestra north and up the Val Chöglias to the Austrian border to outline the eastern limit.
It will be noted then, that the bulk of these mountains lies south of the border, despite the fact that the Silvretta is generally spoken of as an Austrian range. As mentioned above, the Austrian side is daubed with glacial ice and broad snowfields that not only add a lustre, but provide a dimension of grandeur that is sometimes absent on the southern flank. The north side is also, perhaps, easier of access, and better equipped with huts in the higher regions. Some of the Swiss glens are tightly cleft and forested lower down; their Austrian counterparts are more open. On the Engadine side villages will be as memorable as some of the mountains. On the Tirolean slope the contrast of green meadow and bold ice-clad peak is often the very thing that calls a walker to the Alps year in and year out; yet valleys, glens and mountain walls as seen from the south have an undeniable attraction too.
Let’s look first at the southern side and assess its qualities and its rewards for walkers, beginning with those valleys immediately accessible from Klosters. As was pointed out earlier, Klosters is served by trains of the Rhaetian Railway out of Chur. With its sheltered position, lovely views, lots of accommodation and facilities for the active as well as the non-active visitor, its main appeal where we are concerned is in the surrounding glens. Of these the northern valley of the Schlappintal has already been visited in our survey of the Rätikon district, with a crossing of the Schlappinerjoch. However, east of the little hamlet of Schlappin (immediately below the joch) the upper reaches of the glen project eastward, following the line of the frontier crest. The mountains that wall this upper glen maintain a fairly constant altitude of around 2800 metres, but just short of the north-east corner the Garnerajoch offers a way over the frontier at a modest 2490 metres. On the Austrian side, just 300 metres below, sits the Tübinger hut at the head of the Garneratal. If one were to spend a night there it would be possible to create a splendid circuit by crossing the Plattenjoch next day and descend via the Seetal glen below the Gross Litzner, followed by a long valley route back to Klosters, about 12 kilometres from Alp Sardasca. The route to the Plattenjoch involves a glacier crossing, but there should be no crevasses to confuse the way and the col is gained in about two hours from the hut. Note that there is also a small, sometimes guarded hut in the Seetal at an altitude of 2065 metres, found near a small tarn.
The Silvretta Stausee (reservoir) from the Bielerhöhe, with outliers of the Silvretta Alps on the far side
The valley by which Klosters is reached from the Seetal glen makes a profound cut in the mountains east of the resort. Most of the walking appeal is centred on this valley for it forks upstream of Monbiel (private cars allowed as far as this village), thereby doubling one’s options. The north-east branch leads to the Sardasca alp where it sub-divides beneath a great curving wall of mountains. A minibus service from Klosters-Platz railway station may be taken as far as this point. Due north of Alp Sardasca the Plattenjoch trail climbs into the Seetal glen, with the Seetal hut tucked against a huge boulder some 400 metres higher than Sardasca. Eastward a trail noses up to the Unter Silvretta Alp and continues climbing to the frontier ridge; another branches off to gain the SAC’s Silvretta Haus at 2341 metres (reached in about four and a half hours from Klosters). This three-storey hut stands just 20 minutes below the Silvretta glacier, the ice of which is crowned by the Silvrettahorn, Silvretta Egghorn and Signalhorn. Ibex and plenty of marmots are likely to be seen in the vicinity. A recommended route for experienced mountain walkers links the Silvretta Haus with the Bielerhöhe (or either the Saarbrucker or Wiesbadener huts) on the northern side of the frontier across the 2688 metre Rote Furka, which is gained by a short stretch on the Silvretta glacier.
The south-forking branch of the main valley which flows down to Klosters, offers a number of walking opportunities. This glen, the Vereinatal, has a roadway (Vereina bus from Klosters) forcing into it from Alp Novai which projects as far as Berghaus Vereina at 1943 metres, a traditional inn with dormitory places as well as standard hotel rooms. Here the glen opens to the Vernela glen just north of east, the Süsertal sneaking south of east, and the Jörital which continues southward. Each one of these is worth exploring. The first is blocked by the Verstanklahorn but has the walker’s pass of Fuorcla Zadrell crossing behind Piz Linard into Val Lavinuoz; the second has a trail leading up and over the Vereinapass by which Val Sagliains and eventually the Lower Engadine may be reached; and also gives access to the Flesspass which leads via the little curving Val Fless to Val Susasca midway between the Flüela Pass and Susch. As for the Jörital, this has a trail which explores a wilderness of tarns, dying glaciers under the Flüela Weisshorn, and the secluded Jöriflesspass which also leads a trail into Val Fless.
While Davos forms a cornerstone of the Silvretta district it is a little too far removed from the main walking action provided by these mountains, other than for the motorised visitor prepared to spend part of the day driving to and from various access points. Nonetheless, this major resort of canton Graubünden, noted mainly for its skiing, does have plenty of good walking nearby, albeit mostly among those valleys and glens that dig into the Albula Alps to the south.
Remaining with the Silvretta Alps we now turn to those glens that drain into the north side of the Lower Engadine. The south side of this important valley has already been visited in the earlier chapter dealing with the Bernina Alps. But in order to study the Swiss slopes of the Silvretta district proper we will concentrate on that section of the valley between Susch at the foot of the Flüela road pass, and the small village of Ramosch with the glen of Val Sinestra enticing behind it. Accommodation will be found in most, if not all, villages along the bed of the valley. Scuol has the best choice, including a campsite, while other villages, especially those along a terrace above the river, offer more peaceful lodgings and some attractive sgraffito-patterned buildings. Every village in the Lower Engadine displays a sturdy vernacular architecture that has more than a hint of Italian influence; thick, solid-looking walls with tiny inset windows peeking behind wrought-iron grilles; elegant arched doorways that open to an enclosed inner courtyard from which various rooms emerge; the outer walls often adorned with a frieze of well-crafted symbols, patterns or pictures, and with geraniums dazzling against the white or soft pink plasterwork.
Above Susch to the north soars the conical Piz Linard (3411m), highest of all the Silvretta mountains. The village is set rather too close beneath it to be able to form a proper opinion of this peak, for it appears foreshortened from this angle and one really needs to stand back a little further to the south in order to assess its qualities. Zernez is better placed for this, and when travelling down valley suddenly the mountain provokes an involuntary lift of the head, for it rears up in a graceful sweep of dark rock to a fine point created by four equal ridges that taper pencil-like with Val Sagliains to the left and Val Lavinuoz carving along its right-hand flank. Yet despite the graceful line drawn, it is hard to believe that Piz Linard is quite as high as the map suggests, for it has no glaciers, no permanent snowfield, no extensive ridge systems. And should you feel impelled to attempt a route on it, you will discover that its rock is brittle and forbidding – as my wife discovered to her cost many years ago when we were climbing without helmets. But even if you are uninterested in climbing, or are not equipped for it on this occasion, a visit to the hut on its southern midriff would be well worthwhile, followed perhaps by a walk up into the little corrie of Val Glims which creates a central scoop in the face of the mountain, then bear left to gain the south-west ridge at Fuorcla da Glims (2802m) for a truly fine view across a maze of ridges and shadowed glens. The Linard hut (Chamanna dal Linard; 2327m) is an old-fashioned, traditional hut with modest facilities, mostly unguarded other than at weekends when meals may be provided. It evokes a wonderful atmosphere, especially if there’s practically no-one there, and forms a complete contrast to some of the large, semi-luxurious inn-like huts on the Austrian side of the border. It’s reached by an obvious trail in about two and a half hours from Lavin, while the walk up to Fuorcla da Glims will take another hour and a half from there.
While Piz Linard stands well to the south of the frontier, that frontier snakes its way along an ice-encrusted series of ridges that link the most popular of the district’s mountains. Probably the best known of all is Piz Buin (3312m) which looks so impressive from the north, especially with the tumbling Vermunt glacier sweeping down towards the Wiesbadener hut. When seen from the south, however, the mountain takes on an entirely different personality. Not less attractive, but certainly very different, like a towering cocked hat dashed with a sparing amount of ice and snow. The glen which drains from it is Val Tuoi; a real charmer with enchanting Guarda at its entrance.
Originally built in 1913, but modernised in the late 1980s, Chamanna Tuoi stands in the upper basin of Val Tuoi below the Vermunt Pass at an altitude of 2250 metres. An easy walk of about two and a half hours along a track takes you to it from Guarda, with pleasures all the way. The hut itself is perfectly placed for ascents of Piz Buin, Dreiländerspitz (3197m) and Jamspitz (3178m), as well as the crossing of two glacier passes: the Vermunt and Silvretta – the first of which leads to the Wiesbadener hut in the Ochsental, the second to the Silvretta Haus below the Silvretta glacier. Without rising to the temptation to climb any of these peaks or cross these passes, a there-and-back stroll to the Tuoi hut would have value in itself, for the delights of Val Tuoi are such that time spent there will always be time well-spent. However, a full-day’s circuit could be accomplished by tackling the ice-free pass known as the Furcletta (2735m) in the east walling ridge of the valley, followed by descent of Val Tasna to Ardez, completing the round along the lane that links that village with Guarda. There’s some pretty rough ground on either side of the pass (one and a half hours from Chamanna Tuoi), and the Tasna side could be a little problematic when late-spring snow is still lying; but other than this the route is straightforward and immensely rewarding. Allow eight hours or so for the full circuit.
The wild Val Tasna which empties into the Inn between Ardez and Ftan has options worth considering by those walkers for whom border crossings have particular appeal. Though wooded in its lower reaches, above the forests there are fine meadows lush with flowers in early summer. Just beyond Alp Vermala about three hours from Ardez, the glen forks; the left branch is Val d’Urezzas by which the Furcletta and Val Tuoi are reached, while the continuing valley is known here as Val Urschai. This latter glen curves north-eastward, becoming increasingly stony. A trail continues through it, crosses to the north bank and climbs over moraine and scree round a spur of Piz Futschöl to gain Pass Futschöl at 2768 metres. Across this runs the Swiss-Austrian border from which a grandstand view is to be had of the Fluchthorn beyond the upper basin of the Jamtal, and with the Augstenberg rising over your left shoulder. The Jamtal hut lies 600 metres below the pass and is reached by an obvious path.
Another pass option accessed from Val Tasna is the icy Fuorcla da Tasna (2835m) east of Pass Futschöl. This leads to the Fimbertal and the Heidelberger hut. However, the route to it is both long and arduous, and the pass is more frequently crossed in reverse, from north to south.
The final glen on the Swiss side of the Silvretta is the long and winding Val Sinestra, with Ramosch at its south-eastern gatepost, the tiny village of Vnà set on a terrace 400 metres up the hillside behind it, and Sent facing south across the Engadine just to the west of the glen’s wooded entrance. That entrance is a deep shaft which becomes something of a gorge, dark, narrow and forested, and with a road leading along the west bank as far as a large Victorian spa hotel. North of this a trail eases along the east bank to join a track some 40 minutes or so from the hotel. At Alp Zuort the valley forks. Off to the left rises Val Laver in which there are several small alp buildings, and at its head Fuorcla da Champatsch (2730m) between Piz Nair and Piz Champatsch offers a walking route over the mountains and steeply down to Scuol (about eight and a half hours from Sent) with fine views across the Engadine to the dolomitic peaks of the south side, while Fuorcla Davo Dieu (2807m) suggests a poorly marked route over the north rim of the glen to the Heidelberger hut. The continuing valley above Alp Zuort is Val Chöglias which also forks twice more; the first time by the hamlet of Griosch, and the second at Alp Chöglias. By swinging left at Alp Chöglias the 2608 metre saddle of Cuolmen d’Fenga takes a path down to the Heidelberger hut which, though it belongs to the DAV and sits on the northern side of the watershed, is still within Swiss territory. The Austrian border crosses the Fimbertal a little below the hut. This crossing takes about six hours from Sent.
Having studied the various Swiss valleys of the Silvretta Alps it would seem appropriate before transferring to the northern side, to map out a multi-day route that traverses this southern flank. Such a tour would reward with an assortment of views, would give an opportunity to see both the wild side and the settled nature of these mountains, and enjoy the solitude of the inner glens and the architectural splendours of some of the best of Lower Engadine villages.
Tour of the Southern Silvretta
Klosters is the obvious place to begin our journey. Not only is it easily accessible by public transport, but should you choose to link the tour to a multi-day trek along the Austrian flank, it would be perfectly feasible to come down to this resort from one of the frontier ridge crossings above it. Our first day, then, will be spent walking to the Silvretta Haus in order to enjoy close views of the Silvretta glacier. The full day’s walk could be drastically shortened by taking the minibus to Alp Sardasca, which would leave a two-hour approach, but much will depend on your state of fitness, weather conditions and so on.
Next day descend to Alp Sardasca and continue downstream as far as the junction with the Vereinatal where you bear left and walk through the gorge as far as Berghaus Vereina. With time in hand, spend the rest of the day exploring either the nearby Jörital or Süsertal, and on the third day follow a trail behind the Berghaus aiming north-east through Val Vernela to cross Fuorcla Zadrell at its head. It is interesting to note that a century or more ago this crossing was frequently made by the pastor of Lavin, Fr Zadrell (after whom it is named), who would walk from his own parish to that of Klosters in order to conduct services on the same day. Shades of Pastor Johann Imseng of Saas Fee. Once over the fuorcla descend into Val Lavinuoz and continue down to Lavin where you either spend a night, or arm yourself with provisions and go up to the Linard hut for a more remote and atmospheric lodging.
Day four leads to Chamanna Tuoi in the shadow of Piz Buin. Initially follow a track along a low hillside terrace towards Guarda. It eases into the mouth of Val Tuoi and makes a visit to that village non-essential. However, such is the beauty of this Engadine gem that a half-hour spent wandering Guarda’s cobbled streets will add, rather than subtract from the day’s pleasures. Only when you’ve satisfied curiosity should you then take the path that climbs through meadows above the village, and soon joins the main track nosing into the Tuoi glen. This goes all the way to the hut.
On day five the tour continues with a crossing of the east-walling ridge at the saddle of Furcletta. Once down in Val Tasna one has a choice of either bearing left and taking the trail over Pass Futschöl to the Jamtal hut on the north side, or of turning right and wandering downstream towards the Engadine, skirting hillsides to Ftan, then down to Scuol for the next night’s lodging. Should you choose the latter suggestion I would urge you to ignore ‘upper’ Scuol where modern buildings have no particular appeal, and wander down towards the river where ‘old’ Scuol is far more attractive.
A final day could be spent in one of three different ways. Assuming the plan is to end the holiday in the Lower Engadine, a full day’s walking could be enjoyed by taking a bus to Sent, then wandering through Val Sinestra to Alp Zuort and heading left into Val Laver for a short, steep ascent to Fuorcla da Champatsch, which gives a long descent back to Scuol – with an option of a cable-car ride down from Motta Naluns if your knees have had it by then. The second choice is less demanding, and entails taking the morning bus again to Sent, and walking through Val Sinestra to Alp Zuort, then back by way of Vnà and Ramosch, while the third alternative involves crossing Cuolmen d’Fenga to spend a night in the Heidelberger hut on the north side of the ridge, and from there amble down valley and over the border into Austrian territory, thence to Ischgl in the Paznauntal.
Tour of the Southern Silvretta – Route Summary | |
| Day 1: | Klosters – Alp Sardasca – Silvretta Haus |
| Day 2: | Silvretta Haus – Alp Novai – Berghaus Vereina |
| Day 3: | Berghaus Vereina – Fuorcla Zadrell – Lavin (or Linard Hut) |
| Day 4: | Lavin (or Linard Hut) – Guarda – Tuoi Hut |
| Day 5: | Tuoi Hut – Furcletta – Ftan – Scuol (or Furcletta – Pass Futschöl – Jamtal Hut) |
| Day 6: | Scuol – Alp Zuort – Fuorcla da Champatsch – Scuol |
| or: | Scuol – Alp Zuort – Vnà – Ramosch – Scuol |
| or: | Scuol – Alp Zuort – Cuolmen d’Fenga – Heidelberger Hut |
On the northern side of the frontier ridge the Silvretta Alps are confined to a series of glens draining into either the Montafon valley or the Paznauntal. The district’s western limit is marked by the Gargellental which, as we have already discovered, is the divider between the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps, while the easternmost glen is the Fimbertal which empties into the Paznauntal at Ischgl. The link between the Paznauntal and the Montafon valley is the Bielerhöhe, the summit of the impressive Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse toll road between Galtür and Partenen. It is this road which provides the main point of access for all but high foot pass approaches to the Austrian flanks. A public bus through the Montafon valley is usefully linked with the main railway station at Bludenz, while coming from the east buses run through the Paznauntal from Landeck station. Several villages in both valleys offer a good range of comfortable lodgings, while Club huts of the Austrian or German Alpenverein will be found in practically every inner glen.
Our review of the Austrian glens begins in the Gargellental and works eastward. Under the sub-chapter dealing with the Rätikon Alps it was noted that this glen cuts into the mountains south of St Gallenkirch and forks above Gargellen. All the western slopes of the valley belong to the Rätikon, those of the eastern flank to the Silvretta Alps, while above Gargellen the south-east branch, known as the Vergaldatal, is the first of the true Silvretta glens not shared with the neighbouring range. (The southern glen at the fork is the Wintertal, in which the Madrisa hut is set.) The north-east walling ridge above the Vergaldatal holds an interesting walk along its crest, an opportunity to climb the modest Zwischenspitz (2685m), and a crossing into the little Vermeltal. But of major interest is the crossing of the Vergaldnerjoch to the head of the Garneratal where the Tübinger hut is conveniently placed for both climbers and hut touring walkers.
The Garneratal is approached from Gaschurn by a road-cum-track that projects deep into the valley. An alternative high-level trail along the west-walling ridge gives greater interest, better and more extensive views and is eased at the start by optional use of the two-section Versettla chairlift. From the top of the upper lift a clear trail, waymarked and popular in its early stages, follows the ridge crest which soon maintains a rough south-westerly direction to the Matschuner Jöchli. Splendid long vistas are companions for much of the way; there are summits to cross (none difficult) and plenty of interest throughout. From the Matschuner Jöchli the ridge kinks south-eastward; the trail crosses the Kuchenberg and the high point of Vorderberg (2553m) before descending to the Vergaldnerjoch where it joins the route from the Vergaldatal, dropping to the Mittelbergjoch and finally to the Tübinger hut. A very fine walk of about six hours. The hut has accommodation for more than 100, and is owned by the German Alpine Club (Section Tübingen). There are several routes linking it with other Silvretta huts on both sides of the frontier, including a trail that crosses the Hochmaderer Joch in the ridge dividing the Garneratal from the little Kromertal, and which descends to the Madlener Haus, or by a valley trail to the Saarbrücker hut. On its own this makes a useful connecting route, but even without fulfilling the route in its entirety, it would still be worth going up to the joch (2505m), and then scrambling the 300 metres to the summit of the nearby Hochmaderer; a fine viewpoint demanding only a half-day’s exercise. Better and more dramatic views are obtained, however, by climbing south-east of the hut to gain the frontier ridge at the Plattenjoch with options of descending on the south side to the Seetal hut, Alp Sardasca and Klosters, or eastward to the Saarbrücker hut by a route adopted on our traverse of the Austrian Silvretta outlined below.
The Kromertal, at whose head stands the Saarbrücker Hut
Flowing roughly parallel to the Garneratal is the Vermunt valley, the lower part of which carries the Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse up to the Bielerhöhe. South of the dammed Vermunt Stausee an upper glen is known as the Kromertal, with a trail climbing through to gain the Saarbrücker hut (highest in the district) with its view of the Litzner glacier and with the Gross Seehorn and magnificent Gross Litzner standing proud above it. (The rocky pyramid of the Kleiner Litzner is gained in half an hour from the hut on a route equipped with cables and ladders.) There are two routes of approach from the Silvretta road; one by a track cutting upvalley from the dammed lake, the other being a more pleasant trail working round the hillside from the busy Madlener Haus at the Bielerhöhe.
With road access right to its door the DAV-owned Madlener Haus is often crowded, and lacking in any mountain atmosphere such as that which often gives the inn-like Austrian huts the edge over commercial hotels. In fact the nearby Berggasthof Piz Buin offers a better outlook with views across the large expanse of the Silvretta Stausee (in the shadow of whose massive concrete dam the Madlener Haus crouches), and not overly expensive rooms. In view of this I’d suggest spending a night or two there should you arrive at the Madlener Haus to find it packed with motorists.
Another option is to wander a clear trail alongside the lake and at its southern end veer left into the Ochsental glen, near the head of which is found the 200 bed Wiesbadener hut at the foot of Piz Buin. Its situation is truly Alpine, even if the waitress service in the dining room suggests a more sophisticated environment than one of glacier-hung peaks and a wilderness of moraine, such as that on view from the window. Walkers with some Alpine experience and the necessary equipment to deal with crevassed glaciers could happily spend several days here romping from peak to peak or touring the high snows weaving among summits and cross-border cols. None of the peaks are especially difficult; most have non-technical routes, and the glaciers are seldom complicated. But they all deserve to be taken seriously.
A walkers’ circuit that takes in the Wiesbadener hut, stony Hohes Rad and the Bieltal provides a very fine and rewarding day out from the Bielerhöhe, with good close views of Silvrettahorn, Piz Buin and Dreiländerspitz and their dazzling glaciers, as well as a lovely panorama from the 2934 metre summit of the Hohes Rad, or the lower Radsattel that has plenty of charm too. That is but one option from the Bielerhöhe. Another is an exploration of the Klostertal, the glen which cuts south-west from the mountain end of the Silvretta lake. The Klostertaler glacier hangs at the southern end of the glen, but on the western side of this a trail climbs to the Kloster Pass on the frontier ridge. This is an old crossing between the Bielerhöhe and Klosters which descends on the Swiss side to Alp Sardasca and thence down the long valley to Klosters itself – a full day’s walk of about eight hours.
The Bielerhöhe marks the boundary between the provinces of Vorarlberg and Tirol, as well as the districts of the Verwall to the north and Silvretta Alps to the south. On the eastern side of the pass the pastoral valley of the Kleinvermunt is really an extension of the upper Paznauntal. Coming down from the pass one wanders a vague path along the right bank of the Vermuntbach with barely a snow crown in view, pastures rattling with cowbells, tiny pools here and there showing a palette of green reflections. Then the valley bows to the right and the long trench of the Paznauntal proper sweeps ahead; a typically Tirolean valley of neat meadows, rolling pastures and trim villages lit with balconies of flowers. The first of these villages is Galtür, cramped astride the main road and with a minor paved road cutting south into the Jamtal.
The Jamtal is a long valley, deep and narrow and headed by a crowding wall of glacier peaks. On either side extensive ridge spurs push northward from the main watershed crest, and both these high spurs also hold glacial cravats draped around summits at altitudes in the region of 3000 metres. The narrow paved road from Galtür penetrates as far as the Jamtal hut, 10 kilometres into the glen, although hut users may drive only as far as the Schiebenalm, roughly halfway through. There is also a footpath which parallels the road for much of the way on the right bank of the Jambach that offers a much more pleasant means of approach to the hut. The original Jamtal hut was built in 1882, when it was described as being ‘well fitted up by the German Alpine Club.’ It has since been rebuilt, considerably enlarged and refurbished, and can now accommodate more than 200 walkers and climbers. Baedeker wrote of its situation as ‘picturesque ... above the junction of the Futschölbach and the Jambach, commanding a magnificent view of the majestic Fluchthorn to the E., and the Augstenberg and the great Jamthal Glacier to the S.’ The ‘great Jamthal Glacier’ has withdrawn considerably in the century or more since those words were written, although it remains one of the largest of Silvretta icefields. But the view from the hut remains very impressive.
For an even better view and a wider perspective, the 2987 metre Westlichen Gamshorn above to the north-east is highly recommended. The Fluchthorn, second-highest peak of the Silvretta Alps, rises to the east, its southern ridge carrying with it the frontier that curves round a neat corrie at whose entrance the Jamtal hut nestles. In the crest of the south wall of that corrie Pass Futschöl invites a route over to Val Urschai, Val Tasna and the Lower Engadine. East of that the Kronenjoch (2974m) offers a four-hour crossing to the Heidelberger hut, while the Zahnjoch between Fluchthorn and Zahnspitze is a more traditional way between these two huts, although in recent years its popularity has been overtaken by the easier but longer Kronenjoch route which has no crevasses to contend with.
The main valley to the east of the Jamtal is the Fimbertal, shared unequally between Switzerland and the Austrian Tirol, despite being geographically on the northern, or Austrian, slope of the mountains. In extent it is even longer than the Jamtal, with the dividing spur splitting north of the Fluchthorn where the two parallel ridge systems effectively cradle the smaller Laraintal (the Kompass map gives the spelling as Lareintal). This is one of those rare Silvretta glens that boasts no mountain hut, but the Äussere Larainalpe a little south of the entrance has restaurant facilities and is served by a minor road from Tschafein, midway between Galtür and Mathon. The Laraintal is a lovely peaceful glen, flush with alpenroses in summer and with the snow-patched Larainferner presenting a white face at its southern end. The Fluchthorn’s north summit marks the south-east crown of this glacier and the point where the two ridge spurs combine. A trail explores the valley as far as the lower reaches of the glacier, but another breaks away by a locked customs hut at 2133 metres and climbs the eastern hillside to gain the Ritzenjoch (alias Fuorcla Larain). This col is marked by a frontier sign, and descent on the far side takes you into Swiss territory, with the large white Heidelberger hut set on the right bank of the river in what is known here as Val Fenga, but which lower down becomes the Austrian Fimbertal.
A jeep track from Ischgl is the usual route of approach to this hut, a popular place for an overnight stay on account of its ease of access (transport to the door can be arranged), pleasant setting and friendly atmosphere. The first Heidelberger hut was built in 1889, but the present building, with room for about 150, is a result of extensions made in the late 1970s. It stands some 14 kilometres or so from Ischgl, but those who choose to walk have a gentle, welcoming valley to wander through above Gampenalpe. The lower reaches are wooded, their slopes strung about with various lift systems that form part of the so-called ‘Silvretta-Ski-Arena’. But beyond Gampenalpe the scene takes on a more natural and grander appeal. Here an alternative route breaks off to the south-east and climbs to the Zeblasjoch (also known as the Samnauner Joch; 2545m) on the frontier ridge. This is an old crossing point which links the Paznauntal with the Swiss Samnauntal, and from the pass a view is gained of the Ötztal Alps in one direction, and the towering Fluchthorn in the other. A second route joins the Gampenalpe trail at the joch having come from the Heidelberger hut by way of Fuorcla da Val Gronda on a subsidiary spur.
With pastures cut by numerous streams spread across the valley floor, and with an attractive rim of mountains on show to the south, the hut enjoys a restful setting – a good place to wind down at the end of an energetic holiday perhaps. But there is more to the valley than a simple environment for peaceful relaxation, for our walker who is lured by high cols and remote back-country glens will find rich pickings here. A glance at the map shows at least nine passes (two of which admittedly are glacier passes) that seduce in an arc around and above the Heidelberger hut, and the mountain activist with imagination, ambition and the energy to match, could conjure an assortment of tours that dodge back and forth across the ridges; cross-border loops, or into neighbouring glens that also spill into the Paznauntal. In short, the valley offers much, and its hut enables that potential to be fulfilled.
The Silvretta Traverse
Matching the Tour of the Southern Silvretta outlined above, this multi-day hut-to-hut route explores the Austrian side of the mountains and could be usefully tacked on to the three-day Rätikon Höhenweg Nord, also described elsewhere in this chapter, to give an eight-day trek, or linked with the southern tour (which would need to be reversed) thereby creating a trek of 11 or 12 days in a complete circuit of the Silvretta Alps. But even without these extensions the traverse on its own is well worth tackling for its landscape value, sense of challenge and pleasures gained on staying at some of the huts along the way. The straightforward six-day traverse would effectively begin by walking upvalley from St Gallenkirch through the Gargellental, to either spend the night in a Gargellen hotel or guesthouse, or at the Madrisa hut. But note that a bus service runs from St Gallenkirch to Gargellen, while the Madrisa hut stands about 45 minutes’ walk to the south of that resort.
The trek proper starts in earnest next day with a crossing of the Vergaldnerjoch which leads to the Tübinger hut. It’s not a long route, four to five hours should suffice, but with a height gain of some 1100 metres from Gargellen to the pass, that will probably seem quite enough for the early part of a walking tour. If the previous night were spent at the Madrisa hut you’d need to descend to Gargellen first in order to return the key. But if others are staying there with responsibility for the key, an alternative route could be taken. This would entail heading upstream through the Wintertal, then crossing the Valzifenzer-Joch and descending to the head of the Vergaldatal, before tackling the steep uphill trail that leads to the Vergaldnerjoch. That would certainly add something to the day and provide extra challenge, were any needed. Once over the Vergaldnerjoch a second ridge (in effect this is more a spur) is crossed at the Mittelbergjoch from where the Tübinger hut can be seen.
A full day is required for the next stage, but with two possible routes to take, the choice of which will depend largely on weather conditions. The preferred route climbs very steeply to the south-east above the Tübinger hut, crosses a small, crevasse-free glacier and reaches the Plattenjoch (2728m) in about two hours. Excellent views of the Gross and Kleine Seehorn are won from this frontier pass, although fine views are ten a penny on this route. From the Plattenjoch the way continues towards the east to gain the 2745 metre Schweizerlücke, then the descent begins over two further small glaciers and boulder slopes, and on to the Saarbrücker hut in time for lunch. The next section of the day’s walk takes an easy trail to the Madlener Haus at the Bielerhöhe, followed by a two-hour stroll that goes as far as the Wiesbadener hut in full view of Piz Buin.
The alternative, poor weather, route between the Tübinger and Wiesbadener huts avoids the lofty Plattenjoch-Schweizerlücke crossing, and instead goes by way of the lower Hochmaderer Joch to the Madlener Haus, and there joins the final stage of the outlined route.
Stage four is quite short (four to five hours) but strenuous in places. Study of the map clearly shows that the most direct way from the Wiesbadener to the Jamtal hut involves a lot of glacier work, and since the assumption is made here that our trekkers are neither equipped with ice axes or ropes as a safeguard against crevasses, we must look for an alternative crossing. Happily there is one that avoids an over-long valley slog, and that is via the Getschnerscharte, a 2839 metre col above the Madlenerferner, a little glacier that has all but disappeared now. From the Wiesbadener hut a popular trail climbs northward over the steep Radsattel – an hour’s detour left at this saddle gives an opportunity to collect the summit of the Hohes Rad – and down to the Bieltal glen. A faint waymarked trail leaves the main path, crosses the Bielbach, makes a rising traverse northward, then swings right for the climb to the Getschnerscharte via snow slopes, scree and boulders. On the east side of the ridge descent to the Jamtal is uncomplicated but tiring on the legs since the mountainside is steep down to the Jambach. The hut is located on the opposite side of the stream, with the Fluchthorn rising behind it to the east.
Piz Buin above the Wiesbadener Hut
The penultimate stage of our traverse is destined to finish at the Heidelberger hut. It would be feasible to continue down through the Fimbertal to Ischgl, but it would be a shame to do so for the hut’s situation is such that one ought to give time to enjoy it. And a night spent there also provides an opportunity to tackle alternate ways out.
But first the route from the Jamtal hut. Jonathan Hurdle’s guidebook which includes this route (Walking Austria’s Alps Hut to Hut) suggests using the Zahnjoch by which to gain Val Fenga, but in the more recently published West Col guide to the Silvretta Alps Jeff Williams warns of crevasses on the eastern side and suggests the Kronenjoch as a safer alternative. The latest Kompass map also marks the Zahnjoch route as being the ‘old way’, while the Kronenjoch trail is the ‘new way’. By this latter route the Heidelberger hut should be reached in about four hours, exclusive of rests.
For a last day’s walking on this traverse, rather than take the obvious valley route down to Ischgl, I would advocate crossing the Ritzenjoch into the parallel Laraintal and then ambling slowly down through this quiet glen to either Galtür or Mathon. Or, should your plan be to make a full circuit of the Silvretta region, the outward route from the Heidelberger hut would lead across the Cuolmen d’Fenga and down the long Val Sinestra to the Lower Engadine, there to join the Tour of the Southern Silvretta. Whichever option is taken, a good day’s walking is almost guaranteed.
The Silvretta Traverse – Route Summary | |
| Day 1: | St Gallenkirch – Gargellen (or Madrisa Hut) |
| Day 2: | Gargellen (or Madrisa Hut) – Vergaldnerjoch – Tübinger Hut |
| Day 3: | Tübinger Hut – Plattenjoch (or Hochmaderer Joch) – Madlener Haus – Wiesbadener Hut |
| Day 4: | Wiesbadener Hut – Radsattel – Getschnerscharte – Jamtal Hut |
| Day 5: | Jamtal Hut – Kronenjoch – Heidelberger Hut |
| Day 6: | Heidelberger Hut – Ritzenjoch – Galtür (or Mathon) |
| or: | Heidelberger Hut – Cuolmen d’Fenga – Val Sinestra – Sent |
The Silvretta Alps
Location:
On the Swiss–Austrian border, the neighbouring Rätikon Alps also share a border with Liechtenstein, while the Verwall group lies just to the north within Austria’s far western province of Vorarlberg, and part of Tirol. The Swiss side of both the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps lie within canton Graubünden.
Principal valleys:
In the Verwall group these are the Verwalltal, Moostal, Silbertal and Paznauntal. The Rätikon glens on the Austrian side are: Gamperdonatal and Brandner Tal near Bludenz, while the Rellstal, Gauertal, Gampadelstal and Gargellental all flow into the Montafon valley. On the Swiss side the main glens are St Antöniental and Schlappintal that drain to the Prättigau valley. The principal Silvretta valleys in Switzerland are the Vereinatal, Lower Engadine, Val Tuoi, Val Tasna, Val Sinestra. In Austria these are the Paznauntal, Garneratal, Jamtal and Fimbertal/Val Fenga.
Principal peaks:
Piz Linard (3410m), Fluchthorn (3399m), Piz Buin (3312m), Silvrettahorn (3244m), Dreiländerspitz (3197m), Kuchenspitze (3184m), Schesaplana (2965m), Drusenfluh (2628m)
Centres:
Bludenz, Schruns, St Gallenkirch for the northern Rätikon and western Verwall; Galtür and Ischgl for the eastern Verwall and northern Silvretta; Landquart and Klosters for the southern Rätikon; Klosters and Scuol for the Swiss Silvretta.
Huts:
Many huts on both sides of the border. The majority belong to the German, Austrian or Swiss Alpine Clubs; a few are privately owned.
Access:
By train to Bludenz, then bus, for the northern Rätikon and western Verwall, or to Landquart or Klosters for the Swiss side of the Rätikon. Rail to Landeck or St Anton for the eastern Verwall or Austrian side of the Silvretta; rail from Chur to Scuol for the southern Silvretta. Nearest international airports at Zürich and Innsbruck.
Maps:
For the Verwall group and northern side of the Silvretta, the Kompass Wanderkarte sheet 41, Silvretta Verwallgruppe at 1:50,000 is perfectly adequate. The Swiss side of the Silvretta is contained on 1:100,000 LS sheet 39 Flüelapass, while the Rätikon Alps are represented on Kompass Wanderkarte sheets 21, Feldkirch, Vaduz and 32, Bludenz, Schruns, Klostertal, both at 1:50,000. Freytag Berndt produce a single sheet at 1:100,000 scale which covers all three areas – sheet number 37, Rätikon, Silvretta & Verwallgruppe. The 1:60,000 Wanderkarte Unterengadin, published by Kümmerly + Frey covers most of the Silvretta Alps.
Guidebooks:
Walking in Austria by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press) Giving more than 100 routes in 10 different regions of Austria, the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps are well represented.
Walking Austria’s Alps, Hut to Hut by Jonathan Hurdle (Cordee/The Mountaineers) gives details of a seven-day tour of the Rätikon and Silvretta Alps.
Walks in the Engadine, Switzerland by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press) includes routes on the Swiss side of the Silvretta range.
Silvretta Alps by Jeff Williams (West Col) is mostly for mountaineers, but with useful information on huts and hut approaches on both sides of the border.
Other reading:
The Mountains of Europe by Kev Reynolds (Oxford Illustrated Press, 1990). A chapter by Cecil Davies on the Austrian Alps includes these three districts.
Classic Walks in the Alps by Kev Reynolds (Oxford Illustrated Press, 1991) includes a three-day section of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord described by Cecil Davies.
Over Tyrolese Hills by F. S. Smythe (Hodder & Stoughton, 1936) tells of a long traverse of the Austrian Alps from Schruns to Mittersill in Pinzgau in the summer of 1935, during which Smythe climbed a number of peaks in the Silvretta, Ötztal, Stubai, Zillertal and Venediger groups.
