Austria’s numerous mountain groups comprise two roughly parallel chains. Those already described that trace the southern borders and continue to spread through the south-central part of the country are known as the Hochgebirge, while those of the northern chain are the Mittelgebirge – relatively small, saw-tooth peaks of rugged limestone, many of which are shared with Bavaria. These are the fabled Kalkalpen, or Northern Limestone Alps.
With Bludenz in the west and Vienna in the east, the Mittelgebirge form an almost continuous, unbroken chain with but one summit (the Parseierspitze in the Lechtal Alps) topping 3000 metres. The western portion, including the Bavarian Alps, is largely contained in a rectangular block with Munich to the north and the Inn river valley to the south; the eastern section extending south of the Salzburg–Vienna autobahn, with the Enns valley providing an effective buffer against other mountain districts represented within these pages by the Niedere Tauern.
At either end of the chain the mountains are green and wooded, but in between the vast majority bear the hallmarks of other typical limestone ranges; that is, steep cliffs rising to sharply outlined summits linked one with another by airy ridges. There are few permanent snowfields and even fewer glaciers; the flora is rich and varied, lakes and tarns numerous, and huts evenly spaced. Communications are, in general, good, and the whole area is well patronized by local Austrian and German walkers and climbers.
Listing from west to east the Northern Limestone Alps consist of the Allgäuer and Lechtal Alps, the two separated by the long Lechtal valley which gives the latter group its name. Then comes the Wettersteingebirge, followed by the Karwendelgebirge, the last-named rising so dramatically behind Innsbruck as to dominate much of the town’s character. The Rofangebirge, also known as the Brandenberger Alps, continues the line north-eastward along the international border as far as the compact Kaisergebirge, which is located entirely within the Austrian Tirol to the east of Kufstein. The Berchtesgadener Alps are next, with the beautiful fjord-like Königsee rippling below the walls of the Steinernes Meer. East of the Salzach river come the Tennengebirge and Dachstein groups, the first soaring over Werfen, the second wedged between the Ennstal and the southern Salzkammergut lake district. Then comes the Totes Gebirge to the east of Bad Ischl, followed by the Ennstaler Alps, Hochschwab and a series of minor ranges less easily defined which blend into one another and change character as heights decrease; the valleys less crowded but still retaining charm, and walking expeditions concentrating now on rolling, vegetated crests and pastoral hillsides – delightful in themselves, though hardly Alpine in nature – until they fade among the hills of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods).
Ramparts of the Wilder Kaiser near the Grutten Hut
Among mountaineers the Northern Limestone Alps are known for their climbing and scrambling potential. In some districts a number of routes have been given permanent protection by means of metal ladders, cables and iron pegs – the so-called klettersteig (climbing paths) which are the equivalent of the via ferrata found in the Italian Dolomites and elsewhere. Many of these routes have been so skilfully protected that even non-climbers are able to venture with a degree of safety on walls that were hitherto the preserve only of those activists capable of climbing grades of III, IV or even V. However, where mention of any klettersteig is made in this book, our mountain walker should not be tempted unless he has considerable experience of the Alps, has no trouble with vertigo and is confident of tackling vertical rock faces often with a great deal of breathtaking exposure beneath the heels. The other qualification is that the walker be equipped with, and know how to use, a harness, sling and karabiner as a safeguard against a slip or a fall. Klettersteig, Scrambles in the Northern Limestone Alps (an English translation of Paul Werner’s German original) is a guidebook detailing 44 such routes, with an important introductory section that describes methods of self-protection.
Mention of climbing, scrambling and klettersteig routes should not, however, be allowed to distract us from the vast potential for mountain walking of every degree of seriousness that exists along this limestone chain. The scope being enormous, and the chain so long and complex, it is only possible here to provide a small sample in order to build a picture – however incomplete that picture might be. As I pick among the offerings I am aware that a lifetime’s activity is hardly sufficient to exhaust all that is available here, any more than it would be in almost any other Alpine district. There is, indeed, something for everyone; gentle valley walks, more strenuous routes to accessible summits, and no shortage of hut tours by which to explore individual groups in some detail. Of the many multi-day hut-to-hut walks, mention should be made right from the start of the three-week epic Kalkalpen Traverse which traces a meandering line between Bödele, south-east of Bregenz, to St Johann in Tirol near Kufstein – in effect exploring a large part of the chain along the Austro–Bavarian border, and including an opportunity to climb to the summit of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest point at 2963 metres. (See The Kalkalpen Traverse by Alan Proctor for stage-by-stage details.) There are also two trans-European long-distance routes that encroach on the Northern Limestone Alps: the E4 which extends from the Pyrenees to the low-lying Neusiedlersee on the Austro–Hungarian border, and E5 stretching from Lindau to the Adriatic.
The German Allgäu district pushes south against the Austrian border east of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), the Allgäuer Alps spilling over into the Tirol as far as the Lechtal. Although definitions change, this mountain group is generally considered to be divided by the Walsertal, the upper part of which is politically Austrian but with road access only from Germany. To the west of the Walsertal lie the Allgäuer Voralpen (the Alpine foothills), while to the east rise the Allgäuer Alps proper. Oberstdorf is the principal base for a walking holiday; a ski resort, spa and market town which claims to be (just) the southernmost town in Germany. Several valleys are easily accessible from it; three of these fan out towards the frontier ridge along which routes are possible. One of these glens leads to the highest mountain in the district, the Grosser Krottenkopf (2657m), rising among others above the huge Kempter hut.
Not only is the Kempter hut a suitable base for climbs on the Grosser Krottenkopf and nearby Muttlerkopf, walkers’ routes follow the frontier crest in both directions. One crosses the ridge into Austria on a four-hour linking trail leading to the Hermann-von-Barth hut (named after the Munich lawyer who put up some severe rock climbs in the late 19th century), accessible from Elbigenalp in the Lechtal. But perhaps the finest route leading from the Kempter hut is that of the Heilbronner Weg. This airy ridge walk traces a line along the bare and rocky crest heading south-west to the Waltenberger and Rappensee huts, taking in several summits along the way – including the Mädelegabel, Bockkarkopf and Wilder Mann. Much of the route is straightforward, but there are tricky sections and a protected klettersteig to add a touch of excitement.
The Allgäuer Alps are exceedingly well stocked with huts, there being no less than 22 provided by the Alpenverein, and around 20 more that are either privately-owned, or built by other alpine clubs. It will be seen then, that there is plenty of scope for making hut-to-hut tours, as well as single day walks from a valley base to a hut or two, then back down again.
The Allgäuer district is only marginally better off for huts than the neighbouring Lechtal Alps, whose mountains stretch from the Arlberg to the broad furrow of the Fernpass, with the Stanzer Tal and continuing Inn valley to the south, and the Lechtal itself to the north. Just to the north of the Stanzer Tal’s junction with the Paznauntal rises the Parseierspitze (3040m), highest of all the Northern Limestone Alps, with the Memminger hut below its north face and with a little collection of tarns nearby.
The Lechtal range has a south-west to north-east alignment, with a number of tributary glens nibbling into both flanks to give good routes of approach to various huts and mountain inns. The district has almost 500 peaks in excess of 2000 metres, many of which are attainable by non-technical routes. There are a few small glaciers and many high lakes and tarns. There is no one obvious base, and the best way to enjoy the walking potential is to take to the huts and move on day after day. Such hutting tours are enormously popular, of course, and the Lechtal Alps provide lots of opportunities with routes criss-crossing from north to south and from west to east. Some linking routes between huts, such as the partly-protected Augsburger Höhenweg that makes a direct crossing from the Ansbacher to the Augsburger huts, can prove to be demanding and serious undertakings that should not be attempted by Alpine novices. The Kalkalpen Traverse already mentioned works a route through the range, virtually from one end to the other, in eight stages along a noted high trail, and wandering this route would provide as good a means as any to see the best the district has to offer. The following outline tour is based on that high trail, but it also offers suggestions for alternative routes and a few summits, with lovely views, not only of the Lechtal and Allgäuer Alps, but southward too to the Verwall group and more distant Silvretta.
A Lechtal High Route
The first stage begins either at St Anton am Arlberg, or at the ski resort of Zürs just north of the Flexen Pass. If the former, then follow a trail north-west up to the Ulmer hut which is unfortunately approached through the Valluga ski area, with the second stage heading east on the way to the Leutkircher hut. The alternative starting place of Zürs gives access in only two and a half hours to the Stuttgarter hut, with the Leutkircher hut a further four hours away across the Erlijoch (2430m). It is also possible to reach the Leutkircher hut direct from St Anton without first going to the Ulmer hut. Once at the Leutkircher it would be worth spending a couple of hours on the ascent of the Stanskogel (2757m) which stands above the hut to the north-east and reveals an unforgettable panorama of the country through which the route continues.
The route of our tour now works an easy way across meadows to the Kaiserjochhaus on a pass backed by steep crags, then makes an eastward traverse over grass initially, then into increasingly rocky country with a steep climb over the Hinterseejoch (2484m) which gives views over both the Hintersee and Vordersee tarns. Below the pass the Theodor-Haas Weg is a high route that leads to the broad Alperschonjoch (2301m). A landscape of wild and barren mountains fills one’s field of vision from here; another joch is crossed (the Flarsch Joch; 2515m) followed by descent to the Ansbacher hut.
Since the next stage leading to the Memminger hut via the Winterjöchl and Griesslscharte takes about five and a half hours, this is the route adopted by most walkers. However, under good summer conditions fit and experienced mountain walkers/scramblers with no record of vertigo and with an extra day to spare, might wish to consider following instead the challenging Augsburger Höhenweg which goes to the magnificently situated Augsburger hut by way of two passes and a summit almost 3000 metres high: Parseierscharte, Dawinscharte and Dawinkopf (2970m), passing close to the Parseierspitze. This is a full-day epic that should not be tackled lightly, followed next day by a linking five-hour walk along the Spiehlerweg in order to gain the Memminger hut.
The two European long-distance paths, E4 and E5, converge at the Memminger hut, and the onward route to the DAV’s Württemberger Haus is shared with these combined classics for the climb to the Seescharte (2599m). Thereafter E4 and E5 part company. We follow the former while the latter descends to the valley. Our route makes a traverse of an extensive scree-slope, climbs the Grossberg Kopf (2612m) and then scrambles (aided by fixed cables) down to the Württemberger Haus.
At least two possibilities exist for the route to the Hanauer hut; the E4 trail (locally numbered 601) goes first by way of the Gebäudjöchl, Rosskarscharte and Steinkarscharte to the Steinsee hut, while a more direct route (path 627) crosses the Bitterscharte and Gufelsee Joch – with an option of climbing the Kogelseespitze (2647m), an easy summit with very fine views – before wandering down to the Hanauer hut.
Two stages remain on our traverse of the Lechtal Alps, the first of which takes in the summit of the Muttekopf on the way to the hut of the same name in about five hours, the second which descends easily to Imst in the Gurgltal. But should you have time and energy for more it would be feasible to extend the tour by crossing the Scharnitzsattel above the Muttekopf hut, then over the Hahntennjoch to spend a night at the Anhalter hut, and next day descend to Nassereith below the Fernpass. As will have been illustrated, the options for hut-to-hut tours in the Lechtal Alps are almost limitless.
A Lechtal High Route – Summary | |
| Day 1: | St Anton am Arlberg – Ulmer Hut (then to Leutkircher Hut) |
| or: | St Anton am Arlberg – Leutkircher Hut |
| or: | Zürs – Stuttgarter Hut – Erlijoch – Leutkircher Hut |
| Day 2: | Leutkircher Hut – Kaiserjochhaus – Hinterseejoch – Alperschonjoch – Flarsch Joch – Ansbacher Hut |
| Day 3: | Ansbacher Hut – Winterjöchl – Griesslscharte – Memminger Hut |
| or: | Ansbacher Hut – Augsburger Höhenweg – Augsburger Hut (then via Spiehlerweg to Memminger Hut) |
| Day 4: | Memminger Hut – Seescharte – Grossberg Kopf – Württemberger Haus |
| Day 5: | Württemberger Haus – Gabäudjöchl – Rosskarscharte – Steinkarscharte – Steinsee Hut – Hanauer Hut |
| or: | Württemberger Haus – Bitterscharte – Gufelsee Joch – Kogelseespitze – Hanauer Hut |
| Day 6: | Hanauer Hut – Muttekopf – Muttekopf Hut |
| Day 7: | Muttekopf Hut – Imst |
| or: | Muttekopf Hut – Scharnitzsattel – Hahnennjoch – Anhalter Hut (then to Nassereith) |
Making a buffer between the Lechtal Alps and the Karwendelgebirge, the comparatively small Wetterstein group spills over both sides of the Austro-German border south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and includes the Zugspitze, which straddles the border itself and is easily reached by cable-car from both sides. It’s a compact district neatly outlined by four major roads that effectively contain it in a square block. The mountains are composed of a particularly hard type of limestone known as wettersteinkalk, and are separated by the lovely alpine meadows of the Ehrwalder Alm from the Mieminger Kette, whose highest summit is the Östliche Griesspitze (2759m), but whose best-known peak is the 2661 metre Hohe Munde overlooking the Inn valley above Telfs. The Inn forms part of the district’s southern limit. The Fernpass marks its western extent, the Scharnitz Pass the eastern, while Garmisch-Partenkirchen is the obvious springboard from which to approach the mountains on the northern side.
The Wettersteingebirge holds a number of good rock climbs (the 1400 metre north face of the Hochwanner, for example), while several exciting klettersteig routes have been created in both the Wetterstein and Mieminger Kette. For such a small area huts are plentiful and access is not at all complicated.
A west to east crossing from Ehrwald to Leutasch can be made in a single day, while a high route which includes the Zugspitze is also possible (but in two days or so), thanks to conveniently located huts. As the highest German summit, the Zugspitze suffers the indignity of over-zealous mechanisation; a cog railway, cableways, restaurants, souvenir and refreshments stands – even a German post office – and a ‘hut’ (the Münchner Haus) that was built in 1897 on the very summit. The summit panorama, however, is magnificent and extensive. Far to the north the Bavarian plain stretches beyond the mountains, while southward a jumble of Tirolean peaks is dashed with snow and glacial pockets.
For klettersteig enthusiasts the Zugspitze has its own special appeal with two ‘climbing paths’ to consider. That which ascends from the Höllentalanger hut on the north-east flank is claimed to be the longest continuous artificially protected route in all the Northern Limestone Alps, while the alternative from the Austrian Touring Club’s Wiener-Neustädter hut on the west side, takes advantage of a series of near-vertical ladders used by maintenance engineers at work on cableway pylons. The first route is particularly exciting, and has the added interest of ascent of a small crevassed glacier, the Höllentalferner. There is also, of course, the famous ridge route of the Jubiläumsweg that picks a way along the Höllentalgrat connecting the Zugspitze with the Signalgipfel on the Hochblassen; much of it exposed, some of it protected, but not all, and for experienced, equipped scramblers only. But even if the thought of an exposed klettersteig fails to appeal, the walk up to the Höllentalanger hut from Hammersbach is certainly worth tackling for the section through a water-cut gorge (translated as ‘the gorge of Hell’s valley’) with tunnels and galleries bored through the rock, and wild thrashing water thundering everywhere.
In the Mieminger group south of the Zugspitze the handsome Hohe Munde attracts walkers and scramblers alike. Summit views are excellent, and there are several small huts in the neighbourhood that give easy access to the mountain. It also has a little-known klettersteig linking the south side of the summit ridge with the Niedere Munde, in the midst of surprisingly wild scenery.
The view north along the Maria-Theresien-Strasse in Innsbruck, backed by a huge wall of mountains, is one of the most easily identifiable of all Austrian scenes, since it appears with such frequency on postcards, calendars and the covers of chocolate boxes, that it has become hackneyed to a marked degree. Yet despite such familiarity it remains a potent symbol for the old provincial capital of Tirol, and few who love mountains could fail to be drawn to it. Those mountains are, of course, part of the Karwendelgebirge.
These rugged, pale grey mountains run west to east in four roughly parallel chains divided by deep valleys, rucked and folded between the Inn valley to the south and the German border to the north, while a fifth, smaller district (the Soiern group) clusters in a horseshoe of peaks beyond that border in Bavaria itself. The western limit is marked by the Scharnitz Pass and the Isar valley, the eastern by the Achenpass above the turquoise Achensee – the largest lake in Tirol.
Heading north away from Innsbruck these four main ridges are the Solsteinkette (locally known as the Nordkette since it dominates the northern aspect of the town), Bettelwurfkette, Hintere Karwendelkette and the Vordere Karwendelkette. The highest of the many peaks is the Birkkarspitze (2749m) which soars above the Karwendelhaus in the Hintere Karwendelkette and is accessible to walkers and scramblers. Much of the rock is brittle, yet the walls of the Karwendelgebirge were adopted as a training ground for young climbers from Munich and Innsbruck especially, and most notably by Hermann von Barth, from the latter years of the 19th century on. The tremendous north face of the Lalidererwand (2615m), for example, was climbed by a rope of four in 1911. Next to this the Lalidererspitze rises directly above the Falken hut in a 700 metre thrust of rock, while other notable peaks are (in no particular order) the Lamsenspitze, Grosse Bettelwurf and the Speckkarspitze.
Of the many possible bases for a walking holiday Scharnitz is perhaps the best general centre, but with some 30 or so huts scattered throughout the district, once again it is the ex-centrist who will get the most out of an exploration by wandering from hut-to-hut and from one valley to the next. Since the mountain ridges are so severe, and the valleys so deep in between, any attempt at a north–south crossing (or vice-versa) will be handicapped from the start. Valley walks however can be very rewarding in this nature reserve once noted for its abundant wildlife, but there are many summits that can be reached without resort to technical aids, while the Karwendel as a whole has a number of challenging klettersteig routes too.
Of all the opportunities for walkers in the area to collect summits, one of the best is in the Soiern district where a group of five, 2000 metre peaks containing a deep lake-filled basin, attracts with a first-class circular route that goes over one summit after another. The hut used as a base for this round, the Soiernhaus, was built in 1867 on the edge of the Soiernkessel as a royal hunting lodge for Ludwig II, King of Bavaria. It now belongs to the Hochland section of the German Alpine Club, who enlarged it in 1968.
In his Mountain Walking in Austria Cecil Davies describes a handful of routes accessible from the Bavarian side of the border, including the round of the Soiern horseshoe, and Paul Werner’s Klettersteig guide has several protected climbing paths outlined for the Karwendel range. But our walker who has ambitions to drift from hut-to-hut across the district will find at least two traverse routes to choose from. The Kalkalpen Traverse and trans-European E4 trails pass through, and in Jonathan Hurdle’s Walking Austria’s Alps Hut to Hut yet another possible crossing is described.
Hut-to-Hut Across the Karwendelgebirge
The standard west to east traverse (if it can be so described) takes three days to walk from Scharnitz to the Achensee, but with an optional extra day used to climb the Birkkarspitze. From Scharnitz the first stage leads to the Karwendelhaus in a little under five hours, and gives an opportunity for those with the time next day to climb the Birkkarspitze and the three peaks of the Ödkarspitze linked by a fine ridge and with good views to add to the day’s pleasures.
The Karwendelhaus is tucked against cliffs at 1765 metres, the Lamsenjoch hut at the end of the next stage sits almost 200 metres higher at the top of the lovely Falzturntal with the Lamsenspitze behind it. It’s a seven-hour walk from one to the other, passing the Falken hut and alongside the Lalidererspitze after three hours, then over the easy Hochjoch saddle into the Engtal, and finally crossing the Lamsenjoch overlooking the Falzturntal.
For the last stage about five hours will be needed to reach Pertisau on the Achensee. It’s an easy valley walk that visits Gramaialm after about two hours and the Falzturn Alm an hour after that. Because of the proximity of a road through the valley from Pertisau there are likely to be plenty of others wandering there, but it’s a pleasant stroll and a remarkably undemanding end to a low-level traverse of the Karwendel mountains. (Steam trains maintain a link between the Achensee and Jenbach in the Inn valley, where main line connections can be made for Innsbruck.)
Hut-to-Hut Across the Karwendelgebirge – Summary | |
| Day 1: | Scharnitz – Karwendelhaus |
| Day 2: | Karwendelhaus – Ödkarspitze – Birkkarspitze – Karwendelhaus (optional) |
| Day 3: | Karwendelhaus – Falken Hut – Hochjoch – Lamsenjoch – Lamsenjoch Hut |
| Day 4: | Lamsenjoch Hut – Gramaialm – Falzturn Alm – Pertisau |
This triangular-shaped group is located south of the German border where it spreads east of the Karwendel mountains beyond the Achensee, the point of the triangle being marked by Kufstein, the Inn valley effectively drawing a line along its southern edge, while the valley of the Brandenberger Ache virtually dissects the district in two. The mountains here are of modest dimensions, for not one tops 2300 metres, and several of the summits are easily reached by walkers, including the Sagzahn (2239m) which has a short, 50 metre stretch of klettersteig ideal for first-time users of a ‘climbing path’.
The Alpenverein’s ‘green book’ lists only three huts of the German Alpine Club (the Bayreuther, Erfurter and Ludwig Aschenbrenner), but there are half a dozen other privately-owned huts and inns, including the flower-bedecked Kaiserhaus in the very heart of the district in the Brandenberger Ache valley, and the Erzherzhog-Johann-Klause near the head of the same glen which is linked by a cross-country trail with the Aschenbrenner hut. The Erfurter and Bayreuther huts are situated in the bottom south-west corner of the range, the first approached from Maurach by the Achensee, the second from Münster in the Inn valley. A recommended route linking the two huts crosses the Schafsteigsattel (2173m) above the Erfurter hut, then over the Sagzahn to the Vordere Sonnwendjoch (2224m), followed by a zig-zag descent on a waymarked path round the Berglkopf to the Bayreuther hut. This route has as its highlight the protected climbing path referred to in the previous paragraph, and because of this safety precautions should be adopted. There is, however, a more straightforward route from one hut to the other, while the Bayreuther provides several opportunities for interesting excursions to be made over green pastures weaving among the steep crags.
A two-day crossing of the range from the Erfurter hut to Hintere Thiersee near Kufstein is part of the Kalkalpen Traverse, this tour being broken with a night spent in the little village of Steinberg am Rofan. It would also be feasible to extend this tour by straying into other valleys that are tributaries of the Brandenberger Ache, and making a circuit or two along the way, using perhaps the Kaiserhaus or Erzherzhog-Johann-Klause for accommodation.
Lying east of the Inn valley and north of the Kitzbüheler Alps, the Kaisergebirge offers some of the loveliest mountain scenery in all the Northern Limestone Alps. Although they may be admired from the roads and resorts that encircle this district of sharp peaks and impressive walls, the very best can only be properly seen from the many trails that push into the heartland.
Ellmau and the Wilder Kaiser flank of the Kaisergebirge
It’s a small, compact range built like a capital letter H lying on its side; two parallel groups facing each other across the Kaisertal. The northern sector is the Zahmer (tame) Kaiser, the southern being the celebrated Wilder (wild) Kaiser. The Zahmer Kaiser has no real high mountains, for its most elevated point is only 1999 metres (the Pyramidenspitze), a summit easily reached from the Vorderkaiserfelden hut in less than three hours. The highest of the Wilder Kaiser is nearly 350 metres higher in Ellmauer Halt (2344m), whose three jagged peaks can be climbed from the Grutten hut, or from the Anton-Karg-Haus at Hinterbärenbad in the Kaisertal.
The Kaisertal is something of a sanctuary, a romantic oasis of lush green meadows and woods from which the sheer-sided cliffs burst in fantastic, theatrical shapes. The whole district is protected as a nature reserve and offers an abundance of outings for walkers, scramblers and rock climbers. Not surprisingly there are some exciting klettersteig routes too, including the Widauersteig on the 2113 metre Scheffauer which dates from 1911, and the Eggersteig, established in 1903 and reckoned by those in the know to be the most ambitious route open to walkers in the area, but this is said to be dangerous when wet, or if troubled with snow or ice.
This last-named route tackles a cliff-face traverse, a slabby couloir and the high pass of the Ellmauer Tor (1995m), a massive ‘gateway’ in the mountains east of Ellmauer Halt. A high path, the Höhenweg Hochalm, leads from the Vorderkaiserfelden hut to the Stripsenjoch Haus complex in about three hours. A zig-zag descent then enters a basin below the Stripsenjoch to begin the Eggersteig proper, and makes a dramatic undulating traverse of the north-facing cliffs of the Flieschbank along a narrow ledge safeguarded with cables. Suddenly rounding a corner the Steinerne Rinne, a huge couloir between the Flieschbank and Predigstuhl, draws you up steep slabs with help from fixed ropes on an exhilarating scramble (this is no place to discover you suffer from vertigo) until eventually you emerge at the often snow-carpeted Ellmauer Tor, with its distant views across the Kitzbüheler Alps to the Grossvenediger and other snow peaks of the Hohe Tauern. A diversion of half an hour will take you to the summit of the Hintere Goinger Halt (2195m), then it’s a descent either to the Grutten hut or Gaudeamus hut to finish the route – or if you’ve energy to spare, continue on a further hour’s walk from the latter hut down to Ellmau.
This southern side of the range offers plenty of good day walks that nibble at the very edges, as well as a number of summits accessible by challenging trail. But an excellent two-day traverse was created in 1990 between Kirchdorf and Kufstein that makes a very rewarding outing indeed. With the Grutten hut set at the half-way point, the Wilder Kaiser Steig would be worth tackling as a gentle introduction to the countless opportunities that exist for multi-day hut routes in the Eastern Alps.
In the Kaisergebirge huts are plentiful and the whole district is fairly easy of access. Kufstein, overlooked by a grim 13th-century fortress, makes a reasonable base on its western rim, otherwise there’s Söll, Scheffau, Ellmau, St Johann in Tirol, Kirchdorf or even Kitzbühel along the southern edge for walkers with their own transport.
To the east of the Kaisergebirge and south of Salzburg, the Berchtesgadener Alps take their name from the popular Bavarian resort town overlooked by the Watzmann massif. At 2713 metres the Watzmann is the highest mountain entirely in Germany (the Zugspitze is, of course, shared with Austria). First climbed in 1801 it’s a distinctive mountain with several peaks and towers; it dominates the town and has a stunning east face, said to be the highest in the Eastern Alps, with several hard routes upon it.
A great horseshoe of mountains, open-end towards the north, provides logic for the area to be included within German territory despite the fact that a glance at the map would seem to indicate that it ought to be Austrian. Much of the northern side of the border is protected as a national park, including the Watzmann, nearby Hochkalter (2607m) which contains the last remaining German glacier, and the beautiful Königsee. Towering over this charming lake great slab walls form part of the Steinernes Meer (‘Sea of Stone’) – Austrian mountains seen as a distant backdrop from Zell am See. Not surprisingly for a limestone district there are scores of caves, the best-known being the Schellenberger Eishöhle; one or two others have been exploited as salt mines.
The German and Austrian Alpenverein has provided a large number of huts in the district and, together with several privately-owned huts and inns the walker has almost 40 different lodgings to choose from among these mountains, while Berchtesgaden and Ramsau in Germany, and Lofer, Saalfelden, Werfen and even Bischofshofen in Austria, offer valley based opportunities. Much of the walking is quite demanding, especially above the Königsee and in the high karst country of the Steinernes Meer; many summits are attainable without technical ability, others call for scrambling skills or minimal rock climbing competence, and there are some dramatic klettersteig routes too of varying lengths and degrees of seriousness. But there’s enough mountain walking of a more sedate nature for those who require it.
Throughout the summer tourist ferries journey along the dark green waters of the Königsee, stopping briefly at the grassy promontory of St Bartholomä on the western shoreline with its little baroque chapel bearing two red onion-topped towers. A trail strikes off from here heading roughly northward, soon climbing among cliffs high above the lake, enters forest and then joins a road leading to the Küroint hut. From here one could either continue on a round to Berchtesgaden, or climb to the Watzmann Haus perched on a shoulder of the Watzmann at 1930 metres. An alternative approach to this hut comes via the Mitterkaser Alm, reached from the Wimbachklamm bus stop on the Berchtesgaden to Ramsau road.
As its name implies the Watzmann Haus is used as a base for climbs on the Watzmann itself. The standard route leading to the most northerly of the summits (Hocheck; 2653m) provides dramatic views, but is not unduly difficult, while the ridge linking Hocheck with the Mittelspitze (the highest summit) is narrow but protected. This is part of a fine klettersteig route that crosses the three main summits and descends to the Wimbachgries hut to achieve a superb traverse of the mountain. It’s very exposed in places, but the route has been so well engineered that dangers are few and difficulties no more than climbing Grade I.
On the Austrian side of the mountains the Schönfeldspitze (2653m) in the Steinernes Meer offers another klettersteig route in a splendid setting, beginning at the Riemann Haus (approached from either Saalfelden or Maria Alm). Hochkönig (2941m) is the dominant mountain hereabouts, and is the highest in the Berchtesgaden Alps. Protected paths are to be found here too, not only on the main peak, but on others in the massif; one of the longest and most serious being that which tackles the Hochseiler from the north.
The whole area is full of lonely charm, as is the north-eastern corner known as the Hagengebirge with the Blühnbachtal cutting below. Many years ago when I worked in more crowded mountains further south, I would escape to the Steinernes Meer on the odd day-off and there visit solitary alms, pick my way over ribs of limestone pavement, photograph the flowers that grew in abundance, and rejoice in hours of solitude. Regrettably there was seldom time to do more, but there’s a fine west to east crossing that may be made of the district, setting out from Saalfelden and ending in the Salzach valley at either Werfen or Bischofshofen, where the startlingly white crags of the Tennengebirge soar out of the east flank of the valley.
This small block of mountains was once a continuous part of the Hagengebirge until the Salzach managed to breach the wall by making a cut through what is now the defile of the Lueg Pass (562m) between the old market town of Werfen, and Hallein, best known for its salt mine. Seen from the south a majestic wall of pale limestone rears up out of a dark undulating blotch of evergreen forest; from the main road leading to Salzburg it is a teasing vision. From Werfen a better view is obtained, and at evening time that wall holds on to the alpenglow until shadows from the valley swallow every mountain feature. Best of all, and rightfully too, the true nature of the Tennengebirge is revealed only from close aquaintance. Some may choose to drive the twisting road that climbs the south-west flank and then take a cable-car to the tourist honeypot of the Eisriesenwelt – the world’s largest known system of ice caves, 45 kilometres of which have so far been explored, and whose entrance is near the privately-owned Dr Friedrich-Ödl-Haus. Others will do better to explore a network of trails that wind through the forest and lead to a realm of high pastureland backed by glorious crags riven with gullies.
Wengerau at the south-west corner of the Tennengebirge
The highest of its summits is the Raucheck at 2431 metres, but the whole wall maintains a regular altitude of around 2300 metres, broken only by occasional stony saddles, while the pastures and forests that clothe the ankles are rucked and contorted in charming fashion. There are just six huts of the Alpenverein and another half-dozen that either belong to the Austrian Touring Club, or are privately-owned, but the group is so compact that every corner is made readily accessible. To the south lie western outliers of the Niedere Tauern range, while the better-known Dachstein mountains crowd to the east.
The actual outline of the Tennengebirge is as follows: the western limit is marked by the Salzach river as far south as its confluence with the Fritzbach just outside Bischofshofen. Then eastward along the Fritzbach to Niedernfritz where the St Martinbach flows from the north. The boundary now moves along the St Martinbach to St Martin and Lungötz, then follows the Lammertal on its long north-westerly curve out to the Salzach near Golling, north of the Lueg Pass.
Between Werfen and the Fritzbach valley a road cuts off to the east at Pfarrwerfen, rising in six kilometres to the small winter sports area of Werfenweng (bus service from Pfarrwerfen), from where a two-hour walk leads to the Dr Heinrich-Hackel hut. This modest-sized refuge serves as a useful base for climbs on the Tauernkogel, Eiskogel and Bleikogel, among others. A trail heads up to the Tauernscharte (2103m) between Tauernkogel and Eiskogel and leads to some scrambling routes in the heart of the range, as well as another route that breaks away to reach the Laufener hut on the Tennalm. Another, more gentle, trail goes east from the Heinrich-Hackel hut, crosses the Jochriedel (1720m) and descends to the Lammertal, while below and to the west of the hut lies the beautiful Wengerau valley, at the head of which is a narrow but magnificent little amphitheatre of rock faces topped by the Vorderes Streitmandl (2378m). On the neighbouring Mittleres Streitmandl is perched the Edelweiss hut, built there by the Edelweiss Club of Salzburg, while yet another, the Leopold-Happisch-Haus, is located in the Pitschenbergtal below the Tiroler Kogel.
A superb, long day’s tour of 20 kilometres or more could be made from Werfen itself, heading at first through forest above the motorway tunnel to the Alpengasthaus Mahdegg (beautifully situated below the Raucheck and Fieberhorn, and with lovely views west across the valley to the Hochkönig and surrounding Steinernes Meer), then up to Elmaualm on tilted open pastureland backed by soaring rock walls. One summer’s day I came here alone and sprawled in the sun-warmed grass while dozens of horses grazed around me in sheer contentment. When they moved on I had the mountains to myself, even though there’s yet another small hut nearby; a peaceful spot with an alternative trail climbing steeply to the Werfener hut at the foot of the Hochthron’s south-facing crags. Leaving the Elmaualm the circular tour then descends into the head of the Wengerau valley and follows this south to the few buildings of Wengerau where a series of farm trails leads to Pfarrwerfen and back to Werfen with its crag-topped castle overlooking the town.
There are many footpaths and scrambling routes to be exploited on the south side of the Tennengebirge mountains, and several worthwhile days could be spent here. The range is much less busy than the neighbouring Dachstein; much is accessible from a valley base, but with several huts perched in idyllic locations linking routes prove to be perennially tempting.
On the south flank of the Dachstein lies Sulzenalm, with the Bischofsmutze in the distance
Honeycombed with impressive caves, crowned by a prominent karst landscape and embedded with glaciers, the Dachstein mountains block the southern edge of the Salzkammergut lake district south-east of Salzburg. Between the main massif itself and the deeply-cut Ennstal to the south, a long precipitous wall plunges steeply to the broad green terrace of Ramsau, while on the northern side above the Hallstätter See will be found the famed Dachstein Caves (Dachsteinhöhlen), Giant Ice Cave (Reiseneishöhle) and the deep Mammoth Cave (Mammuthöhle) all reached by cableway from Obertraun. The jagged western edge of the massif, the six kilometres long Gosaukamm, curves north-west above the Gosautal, and is known locally as the Salzburg Dolomites. In the upper part of the Gosautal the largest of a string of lakes has cableway access to the Gablonzer hut from which a fine network of paths provides plenty of opportunities to explore the Gosaukamm and the delightful alms that surround it.
Walkers with their own transport could nibble at the range from one of a number of comfortable valley bases. On the south-western edge Bischofshofen gives access not only to the Dachstein but to the Tennengebirge also. Schladming in the Ennstal has the Dachstein to the north and the Niedere Tauern to the south. Salzkammergut resorts, notably Bad Ischl and Bad Aussee, enjoy prospects of both Dachstein and Totes Gebirge ranges, while picturesque Hallstatt nestles at the very foot of the highest of them all, the 2996 metre Hoher Dachstein which also happens to be the second highest of all the Northern Limestone Alps. As for mountain-based accommodation, the Alpenverein and others have established no less than 20 huts, bivouacs and inns here, thus offering almost unlimited opportunities for the enterprising walker to make tours, circuits and ascents – including one or two klettersteig routes – all in a landscape of great charm and beauty.
The Gosaukamm may be approached by road via the straggling village of Gosau on the northern side, Annaberg-im-Lammertal on the west, or from Filzmoos to the south. The most popular way is to drive to the dam at the north-western end of the Vordere Gosausee, for there are very fine views across the water to the Gosau glacier draped down the flank of the Hoher Dachstein; a scene that has been reproduced on countless postcards and calendars. The road continues alongside the lake and goes as far as the Hinterer Gosausee, but is closed to private vehicles. Walkers are not restricted, of course, and from the last lake, which is set in a lovely basin, a trail climbs eastward to the Adamek hut (2196m) at the very foot of the Gosau glacier. From there the Hoher Dachstein may be climbed in about three hours. But before looking at the main Dachstein block we ought to concentrate briefly on the Gosaukamm, and to do so it is necessary to return to the dam at the Vordere Gosausee and follow the lead of Cecil Davies whose guidebook describes a three-day circuit. Although three days are given for the tour, it could be completed in much less time, but a leisurely pace allows plenty of opportunities to divert from the basic route and to ‘collect’ the odd summit that appeals.
Tour of the Gosaukamm
The first hut to reach is the Gablonzer which, as we have already seen, is partly accessible by cable-car from the dam. The walker, however, may decide to ignore this and follow a path instead; a twisting trail that climbs for around 600 metres above the lake before gaining the hut which is very busy in winter on account of the skiing potential of the surrounding area. In summer many of its visitors come up by cable-car just for the day and return to the valley in late afternoon. Should you find the place unacceptably crowded when you arrive, book a place for the night and then visit the nearby Zwieselalmhöhe, a celebrated viewpoint with snowfields of the Hohe Tauern seen in the distance. South of the hut rises the Grosser Donnerkogel (2055m), a mountain whose summit may be reached by a scramble without difficulty in less than two hours.
Next day take a path up to the Oberer Törlecksattel, followed by the Unterer Törlecksattel at the northern end of the Gosaukamm range, then skirt the western slopes along the Austriaweg unless, that is, you failed to climb the Donnerkogel yesterday and wish to make amends; in which case take the left-hand path. The rustic Theodor-Körner hut, dominated by the 2100 metre Angerstein, is easily reached by the direct Austriaweg, and from it the trail continues roughly south-eastward towards the Bischofsmütze. The route is then forced away in a wide diverting arc before reaching the foot of the Durchgang, a steep but trouble-free gully topped by a significant pass to the west of the Bischofsmütze. Over this views extend to the Niedere Tauern range beyond the unseen Ennstal. The Austriaweg now curves round the southern edge of the Bischofsmütze to gain the popular Hofpürgl hut which, fortunately, has places for more than 150. Most of these places will be needed too, since it is easily reached from the roadhead at the Aualm (accessible from Filzmoos).
The third and final stage of the tour starts with a 300 metre climb to the Steiglpass. On the way an alternative trail (the Linzer Weg) breaks off to the right towards the Hoher Dachstein and the Adamek hut. Over the pass the Steiglweg entices through a stony trough and down to tree-dotted slopes below a wild collection of grey thrusting pinnacles. The way leads along a natural terrace whose supporting cliffs plunge to the upper Gosautal. This terrace steadily eases down, and the trail eventually returns to the dam at the far end of the Vordere Gosausee where the tour began.
Tour of the Gosaukamm – Route Summary | |
| Day 1: | Vordere Gosausee – Gablonzer Hut (Zwieselalmhöhe &/or Grosser Donnerkogel optional) |
| Day 2: | Gablonzer Hut – Theodor-Körner Hut – Durchgang – Hofpürgl Hut |
| Day 3: | Hofpürgl Hut – Steiglpass – Steiglweg – Vordere Gosausee |
The main Dachstein block is easily gained from the Ramsau terrace above Schladming – there’s even a cable-car (the Dachstein-Südwandbahn) swinging up to the Schladming glacier where there’s summer skiing. This cable-car makes it possible to tackle an assortment of routes on the Hoher Dachstein and its close neighbours without a long approach march being necessary. And it is, perhaps, better for walkers to enter from the south too, as the following tour suggests.
A Dachstein Circuit
As with most tours described in this book, the circuit proposed here begins with a short first day which assumes weariness after travel from home. In fact it would be possible to take a bus from Schladming most of the way to the Dachstein-Südwand hut (1910m), were conditions so foul as to make walking a misery. In reasonable summer weather, however, it would be advisable to take the bus as far as Ramsau village from where a three-hour walk will lead to the private Dachstein-Südwand hut via the Austria hut. Depending on which route is taken there should be plenty of opportunities to stop for refreshment on the way, for there are several other huts, inns and restaurants dotted around the Ramsau terrace.
Next day follow the Pernerweg westward under the looming Dachstein cliffs on what is normally the route to the Hofpürgl hut on the edge of the Gosaukamm. Instead of going all the way there, branch off on the Linzer Weg to cross the main Dachstein ridge at the Reissgangscharte (1954m), and descend to the Adamek hut in a moraine- and glacier-charged landscape.
On day three the route begins by briefly descending westward into the Gosautal, then breaking away to the north over naked rock to gain the 2190 metre Hosswandscharte. Through this the route now swings to the right, tight against the base of crags supporting Hosskogel and Hoher Ochsenkogel (‘like some monstrous beehive’ is how Cecil Davies described it), then over the Hoher Trog (2355m) to the large Simony hut in time for lunch. Baedeker praised the view from this hut, as have others since, for it gazes out across the Hallstätter glacier to the Hoher Dachstein, whose summit may be reached by way of that glacier in about two and a half hours. From the Simony hut to the Schlicker Haus (also known as the Gjaidalm-Schutzhütte) there’s a steady descent across bleached limestone pavement to the Gjaidalm near the head of the cableway from Obertraum.
The final stage crosses back to Ramsau on a waymarked route across the eroded limestone plateau known as Auf dem Stein to the Feisterscharte (2198m), winding among sink-holes and fissures that could create all sorts of difficulties in poor visibility. Then down to Ramsau (Kulm) by way of the Guttenberg Haus 60 metres below the pass; a longish day but in good visibility a very rewarding one.
A Dachstein Circuit | |
| Day 1: | Schladming/Ramsau – Austria Hut – Dachstein-Südwand Hut |
| Day 2: | Dachstein-Südwand Hut – Reissgangscharte – Adamek Hut |
| Day 3: | Adamek Hut – Hosswandscharte – Hoher Trog – Simony Hut – Schilcher Haus |
| Day 4: | Schilcher Haus – Feisterscharte – Guttenberg Haus – Ramsau |
| It would be perfectly feasible to extend this circuit by including the Tour of the Gosaukamm. To do this simply walk from the Dachstein-Südwand hut on day two as far as the Hofpürgl hut, rather than follow the Linzer Weg to the Adamek hut. Then make a two-day tour of the Gosaukamm back to the Hofpürgl hut, and next day cross the Reissgangscharte to the Adamek hut to rejoin the described route. | |
The so-called ‘dead mountains’ rise north-east of the Dachsteingebirge and form the second of the main massifs of the Salzkammergut region. Though not as high as the Dachstein, and completely lacking in glaciers, it is nonetheless an impressive group of mountains with the largest high plateau to be found anywhere in the Northern Limestone Alps. It is this high plateau that gives the region its name, for it is a veritable desert of stone, a seemingly barren wilderness furrowed by erosion and pocked with sink-holes. Therein lies some of its dangers and some of its charms.
The Totes Gebirge is guarded on most sides by challenging cliffs that offer fine rock routes of all grades. There are dozens of summits in excess of 2000 metres, the highest being the rugged Grosser Priel (2515m) found in the north-eastern corner, from which the whole mass is tilted towards the south-west, while the north face of the massif plummets down to the sombre Almsee, a hauntingly beautiful spot reached from Viechtwang east of Gmunden.
Lakes being a major feature of the Salzkammergut it comes as no surprise to discover several other attractive lakes and tarns, apart from the Almsee, cast about the fringes of the region. The little Offensee to the west of Almsee is designated as a nature reserve; south of that lies the even smaller Wildensee at 1534 metres, while the larger Altausseer See and Grundlsee on the southern edge have shoreside resorts in an open setting, and above them more tarns lie cradled under bare limestone crags. South-east of the main plateau, at a lower elevation, is the Mittendorfer Seenplatte (Mitterndorf Lake Plateau), a secondary terrace-like plateau of alpine meadows and tarns transformed in winter into a ski-touring playground.
Clearly there is much that may be achieved here, and with almost 30 huts and inns providing accommodation – in addition to the various outlying resorts – all one needs is sufficient time and energy to go exploring. Mountain Walking in Austria gives outline descriptions of three routes worth tackling, one of which is a north-south crossing of the range which begins at the Almtalerhaus (approached from Grünau-im-Almtal) and ends by the Grundlsee by way of the Welser and Pühringer huts. Sections of the route are protected, but the way also makes a traverse of the barren and almost featureless limestone plateau whose guiding waymarks are easily obliterated by unseasonal snowfall. In inclement weather the serious nature of such a route becomes apparent.
The Northern Limestone Alps
Location:
Extending eastwards along the Austro–German border as far as Salzburg, then continuing in a rough line towards Vienna south of the Salzburg–Vienna autobahn.
Principal valleys:
Every one of the individual groups that comprise the Mittelgebirge chain has its own principal valleys, most of which are named in the preceding pages, but are too numerous to list here.
Principal peaks:
Parseierspitze (3040m), Hoher Dachstein (2996m), Zugspitze (2963m), Hochkönig (2941m), Östliche Griesspitze (2759m), Birkkarspitze (2749m), Watzmann (2713m), Grosser Krottenkopf (2657m), Grosser Priel (2515m), Raucheck (2431m), Ellmauer Halt (2344m), Sagzahn (2239m)
Centres:
The main centres for each group are given in the foregoing text.
Huts:
Literally hundreds of huts, both private and belonging to the German and Austrian Alpenverein, make this one of the best-hutted regions in the whole Alpine chain.
Access:
Since each mountain group is surrounded by roads access is no real problem here. The Austrian rail network can also be valuable in getting from one region to another. International airports are at Zürich (for the far west), Innsbruck, Munich, Salzburg and Vienna.
Maps:
Most areas are covered at a scale of 1:25,000 by the Alpenvereinskarten. Kompass Wanderkarte and Freytag Berndt provide wide coverage at 1:50,000 – with varying degrees of accuracy. Ensure you buy the most up-to-date sheets.
Guidebooks:
Walking in Austria by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press) includes routes in the Kaisergebirge and Dachstein ranges.
Klettersteig, Scrambles in the Northern Limestone Alps by Paul Werner (translated by Dieter Pevsner, Cicerone Press) describes 44 of these exhilarating routes covering several areas. The introductory section dealing with methods of self-protection should not be skipped.
Walking Austria’s Alps Hut to Hut by Jonathan Hurdle (Cordee/The Mountaineers) outlines multi-day treks in the Lechtal Alps, Karwendelgebirge and Dachstein groups.
Hut Hopping in the Austrian Alps by William E. Reifsnyder (Sierra Club) describes a tour in the Lechtal Alps.
Walking in the Bavarian Alps by Grant Bourne & Sabine Korner-Bourne (Cicerone Press) gives details of 70 walks along the Austro-Bavarian border country.
Walking in the Salzkammergut by Fleur & Colin Speakman (Cicerone Press) is a guide to various routes in this attractive and ever-popular lake district.
Other reading:
Classic Walks in the Alps by Kev Reynolds (Oxford Illustrated Press, 1991) has a chapter by Cecil Davies dealing with a circuit of the Gosaukamm in the Dachsteingebirge.
Walking & Climbing in the Alps by Stefano Ardito (Swan Hill Press, 1995). One section is devoted to a 9-day route from St Leonhard, near Salzburg, to the Kaisergebirge.
The Mountains of Europe by Kev Reynolds (Oxford Illustrated Press, 1990) contains a good review of all the main mountains in the Austrian and Bavarian Alps written, once again, by Cecil Davies.
The Outdoor Traveler’s Guide to the Alps by Marcia R. Lieberman (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, New York) gives basic information about several groups in the Northern Limestone Alps.