Chapter 1: Basic Understanding of the Canning, Curing, and Smoking Process

This chapter is designed to help the beginner and challenge the experienced meat preserver to learn all the different ways that meat can be preserved. There is some interesting chemistry involved in the process of making meat safe to eat after a long period of storage. Along with some basic instructions, general safety issues will be discussed, with more specific information to come later in the book. All temperatures in this book are in Fahrenheit, unless otherwise stated.

What is Canning, and how is it Beneficial?

The process for preserving food in glass jars was invented by Nicolas Appert in 1809 in response to a challenge from Napoleon to find a way to feed his army. As the size and complexity of armies increased, it became more difficult to provide food when the army was on the move. The traditional method of an army scavenging and living off the land could not be sustained during long-term campaigns. When Appert first discovered the canning process, he did not have any knowledge of the science of bacteriology or food decay. Over a period of 14 years of experimentation using trial and error, he discovered that food heated to temperatures above 212 degrees and sealed in glass bottles could be preserved safe for human consumption for long periods of time.

Appert preferred using glass bottles for food preservation. Since the preservation process that was discovered was initially in response to a need to feed troops on long campaign, glass bottles presented a problem due to the risk of breakage during transport. By 1822, Appert had discovered how to store preserved food in tin-plated steel cans, solving the problem of food loss during long-distance transportation. Over time, the technology was developed to mass-produce preserved foods in metal cans. This is where the word “canning” came from. Today, only specialty food products are commercially packaged in glass jars.

To make it simple, canning is the process of sterilizing the container, preparing the food to be stored, and sealing the container so no contaminants can enter and spoil the food. Care in each of these three steps is essential. The jars used must be cleaned and sterilized to ensure that no bacteria can come in contact with the food that is being preserved. Different kinds of food require specific preparation methods depending on the chemical makeup of that particular commodity. The difference primarily revolves around the temperature the food must be prepared at. Modern canning jar manufacturers have provided the home canner with a special lid that makes it easy to seal canning jars. When the home canning jars have been filled with properly prepared food and the canning lids put in place, the prepared jars are set out to wait for the distinctive “pop” that indicates the jar is sealed and ready for storage. Canning jar lids also provide a means to indicate when a jar is unsealed and allowed air and moisture to enter the jar. Sealed lids are slightly concave, while an unsealed lid will no longer have a concave appearance but will be level or slightly bulged. Food jars that are found in an unsealed condition should be disposed of in a manner that will not contaminate other food being prepared in the kitchen. Spoiled food products should not be allowed to come in contact with any surface being used for food preparation. Dispose of spoiled food items in the garbage disposal, or dump the spoiled food into a trash bag and put in a dumpster outside.

Many can remember going to grandmother’s cupboard or basement and seeing shelves stacked with jars full of all kinds of nutritious food, food that was prepared to feed the family through the long winter months. Preserved food stored in grandmother’s basement or your own basement can provide you and your family with a significant measure of security and well-being. When the electricity goes out because of a big storm, food preserved in glass jars is not affected by the lack of electricity. It can be a valuable resource to get your family through difficult times. The safety of food stored for a long time can be easily inspected by making sure the lids remain sealed and by simply looking at the appearance of the food in the glass jars.

Curing and Smoking Fish and Meat

Curing and smoking meat represent a two-part process, so they are usually considered together. Curing meat in the home involves using salt and nitrates to preserve or save the meat for use in the future. The length of time that cured meat can be safely stored depends on the actual curing process, and the temperature the meat will be stored at. For example, chicken and turkey are usually exposed to a light cure so that the salt does not overwhelm the taste of the meat. A light cure does not use heavy salt concentrations, and the meat is not exposed to the cure for more than a few hours. Chickens and turkeys are usually smoked just enough to add flavor to the meat, and they are not smoked sufficiently enough to be stored without refrigeration. A chicken or a turkey that has been lightly cured and smoked will require refrigeration at or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The safe refrigeration time for poultry that has been smoked and cured in this manner is extended for up to three weeks, and it can be kept frozen for up to one year. Chicken and turkey cured and smoked sufficiently enough to store without refrigeration would be a very salty product that would not be acceptable taste-wise to most people.

Fish that has been lightly cured can be stored in the refrigerator for a period of ten to 14 days and may be kept frozen for two or three months. Since many smoking processes do not raise the temperature of meat high enough to cook it, the meat will need to be put through a curing process to preserve it from spoilage. Preparation of meat for smoking begins by curing the meat in either a brine solution that has been mixed according to a specific recipe determined by the type of meat, or dry cured with a salt mixture that is rubbed into the meat.

The availability of refrigeration will determine the level of curing that meat must be exposed to. If the meat will be used in areas where refrigeration is not readily available, it will be very important to follow through with the complete salting process. A point to remember is that not all curing and smoking processes cook meat. For example, cold smoking does not raise the temperature of meat to a high enough temperature to cook meat, so these products will need to be fully cooked before human consumption. A product such as salt pork may be fully preserved, but was not cooked prior to the salting process, and will still need to be cooked before it is consumed. It is essential to follow the cooking directions that are a part of the curing and smoking recipe being used

The benefits of curing and smoking meat

An important benefit to curing meat for use in the home is to maintain a readily available source of meat when the electricity goes out and there is no refrigeration. Home-cured meat might also be very important to your family in a natural disaster when normal sources of commercially available food supplies are not available. For some people, the greatest benefit might be to know that their family will not be exposed to some of the various chemicals that are found in commercially prepared meats. People who cure and smoke meat at home can effectively eliminate these chemicals from their family’s diet. The following list describes many of the non-food additives that can be found in processed meats. Consumers should always read ingredient labels to understand exactly what they are consuming when they purchase processed meats. This list alone should be enough to convince people of the value of preserving good quality meat in the home.

Non-food chemical preservatives and additives in processed meats

1. Alkaline phosphates are chemicals that increase the pH factor in meat. The abbreviation pH stands for potential hydrogen. Alkaline phosphates are used to increase the amount of water processed meat has the capacity to hold. All meats except fresh sausage and ground beef contain this chemical. The level of alkaline phosphates consumed will affect the balance of acids and alkaline in the human body.

2. Sodium erythorbate is sodium salt of erythorbic acid. This chemical is added to meat to reduce nitric oxide in meat, which brings about a faster cure and helps meat to retain a pink color. It is produced from sugars derived from sugar beets, cane sugar, and corn. If consumed in excessive amounts, it may be considered a carcinogen.

3. Sodium nitrite is used in meat and fish to control changes in color and to control the bacterium that causes botulism. If consumed in high amounts, it can be toxic to humans and animals. Its concentration in meat is regulated since it can form carcinogenic nitrosamines when exposed to excessive heat.

4. Monosodium glutamate, also known as MSG, is a sodium salt that is used as a flavor enhancer in processed meats. It is made through a fermentation process from sugars derived from such crops as sugar beet or sugar cane. Some people claim to have MSG intolerance, but scientists have yet to substantiate these claims.

5. Maltodextrin is derived from cornstarch in the United States, and it is derived from wheat in Europe and Asia. It is used to manage the amount of moisture in processed meats and can be used as an artificial sweetener. Wheat-based maltodextrin is a concern for people with intolerance for glutens. It is important to read the ingredients label of processed meats very carefully if you have celiac disease, as these people cannot digest gluten properly.

6. Antioxidants are used to slow the process of meat becoming rancid, which gives meat a longer shelf life. Proponents of the use of antioxidants claim significant health benefits from consuming these agents. There is significant on-going scientific research into the validity of these claims.

Additional non-food chemical preservatives and additives in processed foods

1. Aluminium silicate is a mineral salt that is used to keep dried milk in vending machines from caking. Although consumption of small amounts of this additive has not been found to present a serious health risk, reproductive and development problems have been found in experiments with animals exposed to aluminum compounds.

2. Amino acid compounds are used to fortify processed vegetables and are important to the human body in the correct combinations.

3. Ammonium carbonates are used in baked goods. These chemicals can affect the mucous membrane and can contribute to the loss of calcium and magnesium from the human body.

4. Antimicrobials are used to prevent the growth of molds and bacteria.

5. Antioxidants are used to keep foods from turning rancid and developing dark spots, as well as to aid in preventing the loss of important vitamins.

6. Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are used to inhibit fats and oils in foods from becoming rancid. They have been linked to several types of cancer.

7. Magnesium oxide is used as an anti-caking element in dairy products, canned vegetables, and can be used as a medicinal laxative.

8. Sorbitol is a sugar-alcohol based sweetener used in various food products. It has been linked to irritable bowel syndrome.

Tips for Smoking Meat

After meat has been prepared in salt brine or packed in dry salt, the smoking process can begin. Smoking uses the heat of burning wood to cook the meat while adding flavor to the meat through the variety of wood being used. In America, the wood varieties that are used are hickory, mesquite, oak, pecan, alder, maple, apple, cherry, and plum.

Depending on how much heat the meat is exposed to during the smoking process, further cooking may be necessary before the meat is consumed. Meat exposed to temperatures of 165 to 185 degrees will fully cook. The best method to insure meat in the smoker is fully cooked is to use a meat thermometer and probe into the deepest part of the cut to insure the heat has reached all the way to the center. Hot-smoked meat can be considered fully cooked under these conditions. Although hot-smoked meat is fully cooked, most people will heat it thoroughly before serving it to their family and friends. Cold smoking does not expose meat to temperatures above 100 degrees, so cold-smoked meat must be cooked prior to consumption. Cold smoking is designed to give flavor to the meat, not cook it.

Cold-smoked meats that were only lightly cured must be refrigerated. The availability of refrigeration expands the range of curing and smoking options that are available in two ways. Meat that can be kept refrigerated does not need to be fully cured, but it can be cured to impart a desired taste. Meat that can be kept refrigerated does not need to be fully cooked in the smoking process, but it can be cold smoked to impart a desired taste also. Smoked meat being carried in a backpack for long hiking and camping trips without refrigeration should be fully cured and hot-smoked. If prepared and packaged properly, smoked meats will be a wonderful addition to your outdoor activity.

The primary benefit of smoking meat is the flavor that is imparted to the meat by the wood that was used in the smoking process. Each type of wood gives the meat a distinctive flavor. Flavor is a matter of opinion, so if you are just learning how to smoke meat, you may want to do some experimentation or find someone who is an experienced meat smoker and taste some samples of his or her work. The best type of wood to use is purely a matter of opinion and depends also on the size and capability of the smoker.

Woods such as hickory, mesquite, and oak give meats a stronger flavor than woods such as pecan and alder. Other woods such as maple, apple, cherry, and plum will give meat a sweet flavor. The decision as to which type of wood to use will probably be determined by what is available in your area for a reasonable cost. Purchasing wood at the lumberyard or a major home improvement store probably will be cost prohibitive. You will need to look for places that create scrap pieces, like carpenter shops or wood mills that may be in your area. The fun of exploration and discovery may even be an enjoyable activity for the whole family. The following chart will provide some guidance on which woods work best with different varieties of meat:

• Alder produces a slightly sweet flavoring that works well with fish, pork, and poultry.
• Apple produces a fruity, sweet flavoring that works well with pork and poultry.
• Cherry produces a sweet, fruity flavoring that works well with beef, pork, and poultry.
• Hickory produces a strong flavoring that works well with any meat that you want to impart a strong smoky flavor to.
• Maple produces a milder sweet flavoring that works well with pork and poultry.
• Mesquite produces a strong flavoring that works well with beef, fish, pork, and poultry.
• Oak produces a medium flavoring that should work well with any meat you choose to smoke.
• Pecan produces a nutty flavoring that will work well with poultry and ribs (beef or pork).

What is cold smoking?

Cold smoking is the process of using smoke to flavor meat without bringing the meat to a cooking heat. A good example of the value of cold smoking is the cold smoking of fish such as salmon. Salmon has been an important food resource for many cultures living near the sea for centuries. Ancient people had to fully cure salmon in a wet brine solution and hot smoke the fish to preserve it as a food source that would last several months. Since the modern world now has dependable refrigeration, cold smoking has become the preferred method to enjoy smoked salmon. Since cold smoking does not heat the meat to a cooking temperature, the result is a more delicate texture.

Commercial producers of cold-smoked salmon from locations around the world use a wide variety of wood types, imparting a unique flavor. People have come to prefer cold-smoked salmon from places like the Pacific Northwest or from Scotland. To protect the financial value of their product, nations such as the United States and the United Kingdom have enacted food labeling laws that require the label on cold-smoked salmon to indicate where it was smoked, where the fish was caught, and which smoking process was used. The exact flavor that is imparted to salmon, or any other fish or meat, by the cold smoking process is very important to people.

A good example of cold smoking today that people might recognize is cold-smoked ham. A quality, commercially cold-smoked ham may cost from $45 to more than $100, but it is a price that many people are willing to pay to get the flavor that the cold smoking has imparted to the meat. Curing and smoking are the reasons that pork products have the distinctive tastes that people enjoy so much. It is possible to find fresh pork that has not been cured or smoked, but most of the pork in the grocery store has been cured and smoked. Fresh pork that is slaughtered and sent straight to the cooking pot, and then to the table, would not have the wonderful taste that you have come to look forward to. This is why we have names like “cold-smoked ham,” or “sugar-cured ham;” these are the processes that make the meat so good to eat.

The cold smoking process itself does not preserve meat. The initial preservation process in salt brine or a dry salt pack will still need to be accomplished before smoking the meat. The cold smoking process can take several days or even weeks, depending on how deeply you desire the smoke to penetrate the meat. The ideal temperature for cold smoking meat or fish is 80 degrees or lower, and certainly never above 100 degrees. There is a dangerous temperature zone you must be aware of when cold smoking. In the temperature range between 100 and 140 degrees, dangerous bacteria such as salmonella can grow and multiply. These bacteria are not killed until cooking temperatures rise above 140 degrees. Cold smokers are not designed to heat meat to temperatures that high. The important thing to remember is that fish and meat that are cold smoked will need to be cooked to the proper safe temperature when the time comes for consumption.

Think About Food Safety as a Family Safety Issue

Foodborne illnesses are serious issues to consider when preserving meat and fish at home. Since the bacterium that cause foodborne disease and illness are commonly found in the animals that enter the slaughterhouse, commercially prepared foods must meet strict safety regulations that have been established by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). People who hunt and fish, or people who raise animals on their own property for slaughter, need to follow the same safety standards that have been established for commercial food producers.

Fish and meat that reach our dinner table have been monitored for safety from the farm or hatchery, through the slaughterhouse, through the packing facility, and all the way through the retail distribution system. Even after all of the inspections, tainted food still makes it through the system occasionally and onto our dinner tables. This is why it is so vitally important for the person preserving food for consumption in the home to know exactly what the safety rules are. The first place to begin is to look at the chemistry that goes on behind the scenes.

Common foodborne diseases

1. Campylobacter is found in the intestines of healthy birds. This bacterial pathogen is almost always found in uncooked poultry of any variety. The symptoms of the illness it causes will include fever, diarrhea, and abdominal cramps. Humans contract this disease by eating raw or undercooked chicken and other poultry. Additionally, other foods are infected when they come in contact with juices dripping from affected uncooked chicken and poultry. When handling raw poultry, it is essential to contain drippings from the bird and sanitize any kitchen surfaces uncooked poultry juices have dripped on.

2. Salmonella is a bacteria found in the intestines of birds, reptiles, and mammals. Symptoms of this disease may include fever, diarrhea, and abdominal cramps. People with weakened immune systems are particularly susceptible to this disease invading their bloodstream and causing life-threatening infections.

3. E. coli O157:H7 is the most common type of the E. coli bacteria. It is a bacterial pathogen present in cattle and other animals. Humans are infected when food or water has come in contact with very small amounts of feces. This disease may cause bloody diarrhea and painful abdominal cramps with very little fever. In rare cases, it can cause a related complication called hemolytic uremic syndrome (HUS), which will not appear until several weeks after the initial symptoms caused by E. coli. The most serious problem HUS can cause is kidney failure. Again, the best precaution is proper food handling procedures and keeping slaughtered meat away from animal waste products.

4. Calicivirus or Norwalk-like viruses cause a very common form of foodborne illness called gastroenteritis. This disease is rarely diagnosed because most labs do not have the necessary tests available. This disease causes acute gastrointestinal illness with vomiting and diarrhea. The disease is usually over in two days for most people. This disease is passed from person to person through kitchen workers handling food products with unwashed hands.

The chemistry behind meat preservation

Many interesting and curious chemical interactions take place when the meat preservation process starts. Conversely, if meat and fish are not preserved, chemical processes quickly lead to spoilage and disintegration of the product. This may not be a very pleasant process to consider, but it is important to understand so that you can keep your family safe when consuming the foods that are preserved in your home. Bacteria are very small organisms that you must use a microscope to see. Bacterium begins working on meat and fish just as soon as the animal dies of natural causes or is slaughtered. Since many destructive bacteria are found on the skin or in the intestines, incomplete or sloppy slaughtering and cleaning procedures can accelerate the spoilage of the meat or fish. The following chart provides some ideas and precautions to observe when slaughtering and butchering animals for human consumption.

Slaughtering and butchering meat safety precautions

1. Never harvest an animal for human consumption that is obviously sick.

2. When cleaning or field dressing an animal, never allow the contents of the intestines or bladder to come in contact with the meat.

3. Deer harvested in states where chronic wasting disease (CWD) is known to exist must be tested before the meat is butchered for human consumption. CWD is a neurological condition that affects deer and elk and causes a deterioration of body condition with behavioral problems and leads to death. Although there is no evidence that the disease has been transmitted to humans, the possibility does exist. When butchering in areas like Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, and other Midwestern states, do not allow any spinal fluid or brain tissue to come in contact with the meat until after the animal has been tested and declared free of CWD. The brochure published by the state game and fish department that lists hunting regulations will inform hunters if CWD infected animals are present in the state. The game and fish department also has information on laboratories that can test for the presence of this disease.

4. When butchering an animal, always be on the lookout for any sign that the animal is sick and the meat may not be safe for human consumption. Sick animals will act strangely, look weak, and have deteriorated body mass. Normally healthy animals will run from contact with people, but sick animals may be overly aggressive or seem to be seeking assistance with their abnormality.

5. Do not hang the carcass up for aging for long periods of time when temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In any case, it is not recommended to hang the carcass for more than a few days. While the carcass is hanging, keep dirt, dust, and rodents away from the meat.

6. During slaughtering and butchering, it is recommended that anyone handling the meat use protective gloves as a preventative measure against spreading disease.

7. When cleaning fish, do not return the internal organs to the water the fish came from.

8. If fish or birds are cleaned in the kitchen, ensure that all waste materials are properly disposed of and counters and sinks are sanitized to prevent the spread of disease. To dispose of unwanted animal parts, place the unwanted items in a plastic trash bag and tie the bag closed securely. Take the bag outside and place in a trash container or dumpster. If you run unwanted parts down the disposal, you will need to ensure that all parts are flushed clear, and you should sanitize the disposal with a chlorine bleach solution.

Enzymes are important elements in the biological processes that make life on earth possible. Enzymes are proteins that facilitate chemical and biological processes in the body. They can be described as the workmen in cells that break down nutrients providing the energy needed to fuel life. After an animal dies, the enzymes in the body continue to work, reducing biological components down to smaller elements. The actions of the bacteria and enzymes will bring about a change of color in the meat and the smell of spoilage.

A third chemical process in the decaying of meat and fish is the oxidation of fat as it comes into contact with the air. Oxidation is easily defined as a process of reduction, or the transfer of electrons from one element to another. During oxidation, electrons from the fatty material in meat transfer to the oxygen the meat is exposed to. When fatty pieces of meat are left in contact with oxygen over a long period of time, the meat will develop a very bad smell. This smell signifies that the meat is turning rancid. Because of this chemical process, meat that is used for drying should always be of a leaner cut.

Meat and fish preservation techniques are designed to inhibit the decaying process for as long a period of time as possible. Some preservation techniques even enhance fresh taste and appearance. To the extent of the material covered by this book, techniques that inhibit decay in meat and fish are heat, drying and curing, refrigeration and freezing, the use of sugars, salts, and nitrates. Commercial meat-processing companies use several other chemical preservatives that were discussed earlier. Commercially applied food preservation chemicals are not readily available to the general public and are not necessary in home food preservation projects, since these products are not being mass-produced for sale to the consumer.

Heating food prior to consumption destroys the biological and chemical processes that lead to spoilage. Heating food to the proper temperature kills dangerous bacteria that lead to food poisoning. Of all the preservation methods available, heating food to preserve it for later use is the easiest and most cost-effective way to prepare meat and fish. Try to imagine what life would be like without the aid of fire in your everyday life.

Drying and curing meat and fish removes moisture that microorganisms need to live and develop. Dried and cured meat can be kept safely in a refrigerator for up to three weeks. Refrigerating below 40 degrees and bringing meat down to freezing temperatures stops bacteria from growing. The sugar-curing process increases the temperature of the food to temperatures higher than microbiological organisms, such as the ones described earlier in this chapter, can survive. Sugar curing has the benefit of adding wonderful flavor to meat such as pork. The other side of curing is the use of salt and nitrates. Bacteria cannot live in meats that have been soaked in salt brine or dry packed in salt in a curing box. In high concentrations, salt is toxic to bacteria.

General understanding of sanitation rules

The elimination of pathogens that cause foodborne illnesses is the reason for adhering to strict sanitation rules when preserving meat and fish. It takes very little contamination to cause spoilage of the meat you have worked so hard to put up for your family’s enjoyment and nutrition. Sanitation begins with the meat product itself. If you have gone into the field and harvested an animal or went fishing and caught a great fish, field dressing and cleaning should be done with great care and clean water. Most states no longer allow fish to be cleaned in the body of water they were caught in because people in the past have left a dirty mess that someone else had to be paid to clean up.

Tables and counters used as working surfaces should be sanitized with cleaners that have been certified safe around food preparation processes. The most effective sanitizing agent is still a chlorine bleach solution. Bacterial organisms, such as E. coli and salmonella from the intestinal tract, can contaminate meat and fish if proper handling procedures were not followed when the animal was slaughtered and cleaned. These disease-causing organisms can be transferred to non-contaminated products if working surfaces are not properly cleaned between pieces of meat. If you process your wild game in the garage or out on the porch, you will still need to ensure that all surfaces that come in contact with the meat have been sanitized.

The following chart by All QA Products provides excellent information on sanitation procedures to keep a work area sanitary and safe from contaminants that could harm your family.

How to mix and use bleach solutions

Normally, 1 tablespoon of concentrated bleach per gallon of water at room temperature is considered to be the equivalent of 200 parts per million (PPM). This is the standard for cleaning food preparation surfaces.

Chart courtesy of All QA Products

As you can see in these simplified instructions, there are some constant procedures.

• First, the temperature has to be right (hotter temperatures decrease the effectiveness of bleach solutions).
• Second, the time of exposure has to be at least one minute for a bacterial kill.
• Third, and perhaps most important, the concentration of chlorine must be adequate.

Here is a guideline for mixing bleach solutions:

Sanitizing activity	Ratio
Pots, pans, dishes, and utensils	2 oz. / 5 gal (about 0.3%)
Food contact surfaces	1.5 oz. / 3 gal. (About 0.4%)
Food processing equipment	3.5 oz. / 3 gal. (About 10%)

Sanitation concerns also apply to all the utensils being used to prepare your meat or fish. Cross contamination of meat products from unsanitary use of food processing equipment is a valid concern. All of this discussion of sanitation and cleaning may seem extreme, but the next time you hear a report on the news about someone getting sick from the food they have eaten, remember what you have read in this book.

The final part of this discussion on sanitation is canning jars and lids. Please do not assume that those new canning jars and lids you just purchased are clean and ready for use right out of the box. Those jars may still contain some residue from the manufacturing process and any contaminants that were picked up in shipping. Just think how terrible it would be if all of your hard work canning healthy food was spoiled and ruined for use because you sealed jars that were not properly cleaned.

Please follow all the cleaning instructions that came with that box of new jars you purchased at the hardware store. If you are using used jars and do not have cleaning instructions, just remember that the jars, lids, and metal band should be thoroughly cleaned with hot water and soap. If you have a dishwasher, that would be the best place to clean your canning equipment. Canning jars being used for meat do not need to be sterilized separately because they will be sterilized along with the meat in the canning process. Canning jars that are used for other foods such as jams, jellies, and pickled products that are processed for less than ten minutes and are not prepared in a pressure cooker canner do need to be sterilized separately.

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