Cooked Green Salsa

Salsa Verde

Makes about 2 cups Preparation Time: 5 minutes Cooking Time: 18 minutes Can be made up to 5 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated

This is my house green salsa, a piquant blend of simmered tomatillos, chiles, garlic, white onion, and cilantro. The ingredients are pureed and then given a quick cook-down to thicken and deepen the flavors. Bright and smooth, the salsa goes with nearly everything: tacos, quesadillas, sunny-side-up eggs in the morning. And just like Charred Tomato Salsa, salsa verde can be used as a cooking sauce for fish, chicken, shredded meat, or the vegetables of your choice.

• 1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
• 1 garlic clove
• 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, or to taste
• ⅓ cup coarsely chopped white onion
• 1 cup cilantro leaves and top part of stems
• 1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, or to taste
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Place the tomatillos, garlic, and chiles in a medium saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer and cook until the tomatillos change from bright to pale green and are soft but not falling apart, about 10 minutes.
2. With a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos, garlic, and 1 of the chiles to a blender or food processor. Add the onion, cilantro, and salt and puree until smooth. Taste for heat, and add more chile if necessary until you have the desired amount of heat.
3. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Pour the salsa into the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, 6 to 8 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

MEXICAN COOK’S TRICK: Once the tomatoes and chile are charred, you can remove the skins or leave them on. Like many cooks, I keep them for more intricate flavor and a more rustic texture.

Cilantro Although it was born in the Mediterranean, not Mexico, cilantro has put down such strong roots in our cuisine (five centuries’ worth!) that it’s hard to imagine cooking without it. Also known as culantro, coriander, or Chinese parsley, cilantro is sometimes confused with Italian flat-leaf parsley, which it resembles. But cilantro leaves are lacier, thinner, and more delicate, and their flavor and smell are a world apart from those of parsley: distinctive, strong, and pungent. Mexican cooks use the leaves and the thin upper part of the stems, which have a lot of flavor and a nice texture.

People have strong feelings about cilantro—they tend to love it or hate it. Those who hate it think it tastes soapy, and research shows that there may be a genetic predisposition behind that opinion. I’m in the group that loves cilantro, but I use it sparingly. A couple of sprigs are usually all that is needed.

Cilantro is a key ingredient in many salsas and guacamoles. It is also used to flavor beans, salads, stews, and rice, and the leaves are often placed in a bowl on the table as an optional garnish.