Red Rice

Arroz Rojo

Serves 6 to 8 Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 25 minutes, plus resting time Can be made up to 2 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated

This version of Mexico’s classic red rice comes from the kitchen of the Chepe train that winds its way through the Copper Canyon in northern Mexico. Amazed as I was to see a fully working kitchen rocking along old wooden tracks and a dining room with meals served by waiters on formally set tables, I was even more incredulous when I forked chef Jesus Lay’s excellent rice into my mouth.

Red rice gets its zest from being cooked in a seasoned tomato puree. Diced fresh carrots, corn, and peas are steamed in the rice until they are tender but still crunchy. Any vegetable will work, and Mexican cooks tend to sneak in a couple of whole jalapeño or serrano chiles too. If you are having Mexicans over, watch out: Those chiles are the treasures we all hunt for.

• 2 cups long- or extra-long-grain white rice (see the sidebar) or jasmine rice
• 1 pound ripe tomatoes, quartered, or one 14½-ounce can tomatoes
• ⅓ cup coarsely chopped white onion
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, or to taste
• About 3 cups broth from Mexican Chicken Broth or canned chicken or vegetable broth
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 fresh Italian parsley sprigs
• ¾ cup peeled and diced carrots (optional)
• ½ cup fresh or frozen green peas (optional)
• ½ cup fresh or frozen corn kernels (optional)
• 1–2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, left whole (optional)
• 2 tablespoons water, if needed

1. Soak the rice in a bowl of hot water to cover for about 5 minutes. Drain in a sieve and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear; drain well.
2. In a blender or food processor, puree the tomatoes with the onion, garlic, and salt until smooth. Pass the puree through a strainer into a large liquid measuring cup; note the amount and reserve. Pour enough chicken broth into another liquid measuring cup to make 4 cups liquid total—you want to keep the two liquids separate, since you will add the puree first.
3. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until the rice becomes milky white, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the tomato puree, mix gently, and cook until the puree darkens, thickens, and has mostly been absorbed by the rice, about 3 minutes.
4. Stir in the chicken broth and add the parsley, carrots, peas, corn, and chiles, if using. Bring to a rolling boil, cover, and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed but there is still some moisture in the pan. The rice should be cooked and tender; if it is not but all the liquid has been absorbed, add the 2 tablespoons water, cover again, and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove from the heat and let the rice rest, covered, for at least 5 minutes.
5. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve.

MEXICAN COOK’S TRICK: Mexican cooks often soak rice in hot water to get rid of excess starch, any dirt, and the talc that is sometimes used as a milling aid, as well as to soften and relax the rice. Removing the excess starch helps keep the grains separate, so the cooked rice is fluffier and less sticky.