Ester Kokmeijer
This is expedition-style cruising in a modern, but minimalist ship
The Ship. Designed to operate in polar waters, Fram sails from Reykjavík, Iceland, operating Greenland and Spitzbergen cruises from May through September, and winter cruises to Antarctica. It suits mature adults who like exploring independently.
The ship’s design reflects Norwegian and Greenlandic culture, using an extensive mix of wool, leather, and oak. The interior decor is decidedly Inuit. The few public rooms include the Quilac observation lounge, an Internet café, board room, and a small shop. There is no walk-around promenade deck. Hurtigruten doesn’t have a great culture of hospitality and service, so many passengers feel they are traveling with a transportation company rather than a cruise line. The crew to passenger ratio is really low, and service training is poor, so there’s little attention to detail.
In Antarctica, the ship is a fairly capable expedition vessel, but it can still get stuck in heavy pack-ice. MV Fram was assisted in January 2013 by the British Royal Navy’s ice patrol ship HMS Protector. An Expedition Leader organizes everything to do with a specific voyage. Expedition specialists provide daily lectures. Boots are provided; they come in European sizes – so it helps to know yours before you go.
Life on board is very relaxed, so formal attire is never needed. Smoking is allowed only on the open deck – and not at all when Fram is in port. The ship operates in Norwegian and English. There are no safety deposit boxes. Hurtigruten operates a no-tipping-required policy. All in all, the ship should provide a fine expedition-style experience in a modicum of comfort.
Accommodation. There are 13 price categories (too many), according to size and location. The good thing is that no cabins have obstructed views. The largest accommodation is one Owner’s Suite, which consists of a bedroom, living room, and bathroom with Jacuzzi tub. Six cabins at the aft of the ship, overlooking the stern and the ship’s wake, have a shared balcony. There are several price grades for the standard cabins, which typically have one bed and a sofa that converts to a fold-down bed, or two pull-down sofa beds; there’s little room and only a few shelves (these cabins are really only good for daytrippers).
Dining. Restaurant Imaq, the main dining room, is located aft and connects to the main lobby via an arcade. Local cuisine and recipes, including bison meat and fresh fish, are featured. However, several meals are of the self-help buffet variety only. An extra-charge bistro and self-serve buffet is available for snacks. Dessert items are particularly good. Alcohol prices are very high.
Entertainment. There isn’t any. Guides and lecturers organize talks and informative briefings based on the cruise area.
Spa/Fitness. Saunas are located one deck above the exercise area; there’s also a small, well-equipped exercise room.