Coastal Cruises

Being all at sea doesn’t appeal? You can stay close to dry land by journeying round the coasts of Australia, Europe, and North and South America.

The marine wonderland of the Great Barrier Reef, a World Heritage Site off the northeast coast of Australia, is the earth’s largest living coral reef – it actually consists of more than 2,800 individual coral reefs. It is visited by around 70 local Australian boutique ship operators, who mostly offer one- to four-night cruises to the reefs and Whitsunday Islands. The area is excellent for scuba diving and snorkeling.

June through September is humpback whale-watching season; the Reef shelters the young whales, while the adults nurture them in the shallow waters. Note that the Australian government levies an environmental charge of A$6.50 per day (A$3.25 for those spending less than three hours in the Marine Park) on everyone over four years of age visiting the Great Barrier Reef and its environs.

Norway

An alternative to traditional cruise ships can be found in the year-round coastal cruising along the shores of Norway to the Land of the Midnight Sun aboard the ships of the Hurtigruten Group. The fleet consists of small, comfortable, working express coastal vessels and contemporary cruise vessels that deliver mail, small packaged goods, and foodstuffs, and take passengers to the communities spread on the shoreline.

Invariably dubbed ‘the world’s most beautiful voyage,’ this is a 1,250-mile (2,012-km) journey from Bergen in Norway to Kirkenes, close to the Russian border (half of which is north of the Arctic Circle) and takes 12 days. The service started in 1893 to provide connection to communities when there were no roads, and the name Hurtigruten – meaning ‘fast route’ – reflects the fact that this coastal express was once the most reliable communication link between southern Norway and its remote north. Today the company carries more than 300,000 passengers a year. It’s a good way to meet Norwegians, who treat the service like a bus.

You can join it at any of the 34 ports of call and stay as long as you wish because the vessels sail every day of the year (some port calls are of only one hour or so – enough to get off and on and unload freight). Most ports are repeated on the return journey, but stop at different times, so you may get a different feeling for a place, even if you’ve also visited it.

Note that double beds are available only in suite-grade accommodation (other cabins are dimensionally challenged, with sparse decor, furnishings, and minimal luggage storage space); many of the beds are fixed in an L-shape, or in a bed and sofa/bed combination. Note that most of the ships do not have stabilizers, and there is no doctor on board, nor indeed any medical facilities, but all gratuities are included in the fare.

At the height of summer, north of the Arctic Circle, there are almost 24 hours of daylight (there is no sunset between April 19 and August 23). Between November and February, the northern lights – if the atmospheric conditions are right – create spectacular arcs across the sky. Some specialist voyages are aimed at wildlife, birdwatchers, astronomy, and others, while onboard concerts and lectures celebrate the work of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.

A Hurtigruten ship on Norway’s Arctic coast.

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The ships can accommodate between 144 and 652 passengers. The newest ships have an elevator that can accommodate a wheelchair passenger, but, otherwise, they are plain, basic, practical vessels, with food that is more canteen-style than restaurant. A 24-hour restaurant provides items at extra cost. Note that the price of alcoholic drinks is extremely high (you can take your own on board), as it is throughout Norway, and that the currency is the Norwegian krone.

Archipelago-hopping can be done along Sweden’s eastern coast, too, by sailing in the daytime and staying overnight in one of the many small hotels en route. One vessel sails from Norrtalje, north of Stockholm, to Oskarshamn, near the Baltic island of Öland, right through the spectacular Swedish archipelago.

The Hurtigruten Group also operates utilitarian ships for expeditions to the Arctic, Antarctic, and Greenland.

Hebridean Princess in the Scottish islands.

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Scotland

The fishing town of Oban, two hours west of Glasgow by road, is the base for one of the world’s finest cruise experiences. Hebridean Princess is a real gem, with Laura Ashley-style interiors – posh enough to have been chartered by Queen Elizabeth II for a family-only celebration of her 80th birthday in 2006. The food is excellent, and includes locally sourced Scottish beef, local seafood, and seasonal vegetables. There’s fine personal service.

This ship, owned by Hebridean Island Cruises, carries up to 50 passengers around some of Scotland’s most magnificent coastline and islands. If you cruise from Oban, you can be met at Glasgow airport or railway station and taken to the ship by motor coach. Take lots of warm clothing, however (layers are best), as the weather can be changeable and often inclement.

There’s also the 54-passenger Lord of the Glens, operated by the Magna Carta Steamship Company and with many of its fittings taken from famous ocean liners and trains of yesteryear. It cruises in style through Scotland’s lakes and canals, although it’s not a steamship but a modern deluxe vessel. Some high-season sailings have historians and guest lecturers on board. Note that the cuisine is not up to the standard of Hebridean Princess, and drinks are very expensive.

North America

Coastal cruise ships flying the American flag offer a complete change of style from the large resort cruise ships. They are American-owned and American-crewed, and very informal. Being US-registered, they can start from and return to a US port without being required to call at a foreign port along the way – which a foreign-flagged cruise ship must do.

Accommodating up to 200 passengers, the ships are rarely out of sight of land. These cruises are low-key, low-pace, and not for active, adventurous types. Their operators seek out lesser-known areas, offering in-depth visits to destinations inaccessible to larger ships, along both the eastern and western seaboards of the US, including Alaska.

Most passengers are of senior years. Many prefer not to fly, and wherever possible drive or take a train to join their ship. During the summer, you might see a couple of children on board, but in general small kids are not allowed. There are no facilities for them, and no staff to look after them.

Destinations. Eastern US and Canadian seaboard cruises include the St. Lawrence River, Atlantic Coastal Waterways, New England (good for fall cruises), Cape Cod and the Islands – and Cape Cod Canal, the Great Lakes – and the Welland Canal, the Colonial Deep South, and Florida waterways.

Western seaboard cruises cover Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, California Wine Country, and Baja California/Sea of Cortez. Cruises focus on historically relevant destinations, nature and wildlife spotting, and coastal viewing. On some cruises, these boutique ships can dock adjacent to a town, allowing easy access on foot.

Swimming from Wilderness Adventurer in Alaska.

Aurora Expeditions

The ships. These ‘D-class’ vessels are less than 2,500 gross tonnage, and are subject neither to bureaucratic regulations nor to union rules. They are restricted to cruising no more than 20 miles (32km) offshore. Public room facilities are limited. Because the vessels are US-registered, there is no casino. They really are casual, no-frills ships with basic facilities, no swimming pools, little artwork, and no glitz in terms of the interior decor. They usually have three or four decks and, except for the ships of American Cruise Lines, sister company Pearl Seas Cruises, and Victory Cruise Lines, there is no elevator. Stairs can be steep and are not recommended for anyone with walking difficulties. Because of this, some have an electric chair-lift.

Accommodation is in outside-view cabins, some opening directly onto a walking deck, which is inconvenient when it rains. Each has a picture window and small bathroom. They are basic, with very limited closet space – often just a curtain across a space with a hanging rod for clothes. Many don’t have a television set or telephone. There’s no room service, and you may have to turn your own bed down. Cabins are closer to the engines and generators than aboard the large resort ships, so the noise of the generator humming can be disturbing at night. The quietest cabins are at the bows – although there could be noise from the bow thruster propeller. Most cruising is, however, done in the early morning, so that passengers can sleep better at night.

Tall passengers should note that the overall length of beds rarely exceeds 6ft (1.8m). Although soap is provided, it’s best to bring your own shampoo, conditioner, and other toiletries. The ships of Blount Small Ship Adventures do not have cabin keys. Hot and cold water lines may run close to each other in your bathroom, delivering neither really hot nor really cold water. Sound insulation is quite poor.

Activities. The main evening event is dinner in the dining room, with one seating. This can be a family-style affair, with passengers at long tables, and the food passed around.

The cuisine is decidedly American, with fresh local specialties. Menus aboard the ships of Alaskan Dream Cruises and Blount Small Ship Adventures are quite limited; those aboard the ships of American Cruise Lines offer slightly more variety, including seasonal items. You’ll probably be asked in the morning to choose which of the two main courses you’d like for dinner.

Evening entertainment consists mainly of after-dinner conversation. Most vessels are in port during the time, so you can easily go ashore for the local nightlife, although most passengers simply go to bed early.

The cost. These cruises are expensive, with an average daily rate of $400–800 a person, plus gratuities of about $125 per person, per seven-day cruise (these are shared by all personnel).

Coastal cruise lines in North America

There are several small ship cruise companies: Alaskan Dream Cruises, American Cruise Lines, Blount Small Ship Adventures, Lindblad Expeditions, Pearl Seas Cruises, Un-Cruise Adventures, and Victory Cruise Lines.

What differentiates them? American Cruise Lines, Pearl Seas Cruises, and Un-Cruise Adventures provide better food and service than the others. American Cruise Lines’ and Pearl Seas Cruises’ ships have larger cabins, and more public rooms. Drinks are included aboard the ships of American Cruise Lines and Victory Cruise Lines.

Hurtigruten ships
Ship	Tonnage	Built	Berths
Finnmarken	15,000	2002	638
Fram *	12,700	2007	328
Kong Harald	11,200	1993	490
Lofoten	2,621	1964	147
Midnatsol **	16,053	2003	652
Nordkapp	11,386	1996	464
Nordlys	11,200	1994	482
Nordnorge	11,386	1997	455
Nordstjernen **	2,621	1956	114
Polarlys	12,000	1996	479
Richard With	11,205	1993	483
Spitsbergen	7,025	2009	200
Trollfjord	15,000	2002	648
Vesterålen	6,261	1983	316
* for expedition voyages only ** for ‘soft’ expedition-style cruises