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Chapter 7

Bee Products

If sitting in the sun on a nice comfortable chair, sipping iced tea, and watching your bees busy at work is not the only enjoyment you want to get from being a beekeeper, then there are plenty of productive things to do to keep you as busy as your bees. Processing honey, forming wax, packaging propolis and larvae, dipping candles, making cosmetics, and working in the world of apitherapy will fill your days with both fun and profit.

Selling Honey

Honey is most often sold by the pound, with prices ranging from $6 - $8 a pound. It is usually sold in plastic or glass containers. Glass has a certain classy look to it, but plastic is durable.

The label should contain pertinent information, such as company name, ordering details, and ingredients. The National Honey Board organization’s Web site (www.honey.com) has printable labels, advertisements, and fliers available free of charge.

Proper fill is to just about the circle in the neck of the jar, so that when one holds a jar of honey and looks straight on, one cannot see through; there should be no space between the jar lid and the honey-fill line.

According to veteran beekeeper Lynda Cook Rizzardi, one of the best phrases that some beekeepers use in packaging is, “Do neither over-fill nor under-fill a jar of marketable honey. If you over-fill, you are cheating yourself; if you under-fill, you are cheating the customer.”

Cost of honey and honey products might seem expensive to some buyers, but it is your honey, and it is your price. Remember that the beekeeper has purchased the bees, possibly a new queen, the hive body, frames, foundation, supers and spacers, and any other needed supplies. He or she has also personally checked the progress of the work in the hive, removed supers for packaging and processing, cut the comb and extracted the honey, jarred the honey, labeled, and done all the preparation to distribute or show the product. The bees do not do all the work.

Show honey

Honey entered in competition is known as show honey. Competition exists at state, national, and even international levels. Other bee products that can be judged include cuts of honeycomb, honey frames, beeswax, and honey bees.

Most competitions will have similar criteria to judge the honey for awards. Cleanliness is absolutely crucial. There should be no debris or foreign matter — bee wings, body parts, hairs, dirt, dust, lint, or particles of any kind — in a jar of honey.

The color and flavor of show honey is dependent upon the major blooms in season during the honey flow. Different flowering trees, shrubs, and flowers provide color and flavor. If a beekeeper is fortunate enough to have different colors and flavors of honey, it is best to keep these separated for judging and selling purposes. Both experienced and new beekeepers quickly learn that customers want a variety of honey flavors and products. Some beekeepers will mix everything they remove from the hive and have a blended, neutral color and flavor.

There are five color divisions for the comb or chunk honey entries, including white, extra light amber, light amber, amber, and dark amber. Criteria for these entries generally include cleanliness, accuracy of fill, absence of crystals, flavor, and container appearance. The comb honey is also judged on neatness and uniformity of the cut comb, the absence of water, cappings, uncapped cells, and pollen.

The cut refers to the honeycomb. The entire comb should be cut at one time. Cut the comb so that it will reach to the neck of the jar. When filling with the extracted honey, try to keep the cut comb centered in the jar. Once the jar is filled, take a thin-bladed knife and remove any of the wax capping that may float to the top.

Honey frame entries may be entered using deep, medium, or shallow frames, generally in either a light or dark category. The judge will look for uniformity of appearance, absence of uncapped cells’ cleanliness, absence of travel stains across the comb surface, uniformity of color and comb draw, and freedom of granulation and pollen.

Beeswax entries are divided into several categories: a molded piece of wax, weighing a minimum amount; a novelty piece of wax; candles; or products of wax (furniture polish, lip gloss, lotions, and creams). A judge will look for cleanliness, uniformity of appearance, and color. A nice lemon-yellow color is considered the standard in judging the wax alone. Also noted are aroma, absence of cracks and shrinkage, the skills involved, and the design.

Honey bees should be viewed from a special observation box. The observation hive must contain a frame of brood, a frame of honey, and a marked queen bee. The judge will look at the comb in both frames to see if it is even in appearance and color; look at the brood pattern in the brood frame; check the rate of worker cells in the brood frame; examine the sufficiency of the laying queen; and check the conformity of the bees to the species specified on the entry tag.

Using wax

Wax is a big part of any beekeeper’s business. There are many product ideas, from candles to cosmetics, that might appeal to the newcomer.

Most beekeepers make their candles from the wax cappings of honey cells. This is the lightest colored wax. Wax is white when it is first made, but it quickly changes with exposure to honey and pollen. The actual comb can be used as well but melts down to a much darker color.

To prepare the wax, begin by soaking the well-strained cappings water overnight. The next day, drain the caps and place in an enamel, ceramic, or stainless-steel pot. An old coffee pot works well. Never use aluminum or iron because it stains and discolors the wax. Heat the pot in a double boiler. Never heat directly over the actual flame or heat source because wax is extremely flammable. Use an electric heat source instead of gas or another open flame fuel. If no double boiler is available, fill a larger pot with water and insert the pot with the wax over the hot water. Be careful not to let the water boil. If water gets into your wax, it causes imperfections and sputtering in candles. Never leave the room when melting wax.

Once the wax is thoroughly melted, pour it through a filter. A double layer of paper towels works well for small quantities of wax. These paper towels are great to save for use in lighting the smoker when opening the hive and working with the bees. After the wax is completely filtered, set it aside to cool.

Cleaning the wax is important for strong-burning candles with little smoke. The easiest way may be to melt it in a pan of water. Wax is light and will float, and all the impurities will sink. Heat the water. As the wax melts, ladle it off the surface and put it in a clean plastic container.

Take small chunks of the cooled wax and re-melt them in a double boiler or over a pan of boiling water. After melting, filter again — but this time, filter through a piece of clean cloth. Stretch the cloth over a metal coffee tin and secure with a rubber band. Leave just enough slack in the cloth to form a slight dip for the wax to sit in as it drips through the filter.

This second filtering is also important. The more finely the wax is filtered, the better your candle products. After this last filtering, put the clean wax into a milk carton. The wax cools inside and, when hardened, can easily be removed.

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Author’s Apiary

Beeswax: The multi-purpose wonder

We have discussed some great uses for beeswax, but there are many more. It is also used in dentistry, blacksmithing, and in cartoon animation. Here are some other fascinating uses from beekeeper Lawrence Cutts. Beeswax can be used to:

Candle making

Even the hobbyist beekeeper might be inspired to indulge in the art of candle making. Some will make an entire business of their handmade beeswax candles and, of course, their other products. Beeswax makes the best candles because it retains its form, smells better, and burns slowly with less smoke. For the beekeeper who is considering making candles for fun or profit, beeswax can be heated and poured into molds, rolled, or dipped.

Dipping candles is one of oldest technique of candle making. It is by far the most difficult, but worth the time and effort if your plan is to sell in bulk. To get started, dip a wax-coated wick into a tall double boiler of melted wax. Dip the wick, wait one to two minutes, and dip again. Repeat this process. Each time the candle is dipped, a small layer is left on the wick. After the candles have dried — but are not too hard — slice the end with a sharp knife to give it a flat end.

Poured candles can be bigger and stronger than dipped candles. Hang the wick over a ceramic bowl or pie plate to catch the wax. Pour the hot wax over the wick, slowly twisting the wick to ensure total coverage. Lean the wick over a prop and let dry. Repeat as many times as needed. Temperature is important here: If your wax is too cold, it will stop before it gets to the bottom of the wick and not cover smoothly. If it is too hot, it will run to the bottom of the holding container, and not enough will stick to the wax.

Roll the candle on a countertop or between two sheets of glass or plastic to straighten. Cut the nut or bolt from the wick and trim the ends of the candle to an even edge.

Maybe your dream is to make holiday-themed or religious-shaped candles. Molded candles can take the shape of anything. Get a bucket full of sand for this procedure; insert the closed mold into the sand to keep it upright and to protect any surfaces from spilled wax.

Be sure the metal molds are warmed to room temperature. Coat the inside of the mold with a cooking oil spray or a liquid detergent. Use a paint brush; make sure to get the oil or detergent in every nook and cranny. Do not leave any air bubbles, because they cause imperfections in the candle surface. Let the molds sit overnight. Add a light dusting of talcum powder to help prepare them for wax pouring.

Insert the wick into the mold, pulling it out at least 2 inches on the underside. Tie that end around a bobby pin, toothpick, or something else to hold secure and keep the wick from slipping back into the opening of the mold.

Clamp the mold together and insert in the pan of sand until snug. Fill the mold from the open hole at the top. Let cool several hours, then fill in any shrinkage that has occurred. Beeswax loses a considerable amount of mass as it solidifies from liquid form. The bigger the mold, the more shrinkage will occur. Fill the candle again as it dries. Allow to cool slowly. Fast cooling of beeswax results in warping and weak candles with cracks and distortions. Wrap in newspaper and put in a cool, dry place for 24 hours.

When unmolding your candle, patience is the key. Loosen any clamps and slowly pry apart your mold. If your molds are metal mold and are being difficult to remove, try putting them in the freezer for 15 minutes, then give them a sharp tap with the butt of a knife.

Place candles on newspaper and allow them to air dry. Wrap them in tissue paper and store in an airtight container. After several days, a whitish bloom will cover the candle. No worries — this is normal and only has to be buffed away with a cloth.

Show wax

Wax can be shown at local county and state fairs as well as contests all over the world. Wax contests have their own criteria for judging such as purity of the wax, color, and weight. It can be judged in blocks of pure, natural wax, candles, cosmetics, and household goods like furniture polish. Contact your local agricultural division for information on local contests.

Cosmetics

Beeswax is a great protectant for the skin. It has emollient properties as well as soothing and softening characteristics that help the skin retain moisture. It is used in cosmetic as a thickening agent, emulsifier (a mixture used in makeup to keep surfaces smooth and liquids dispersed), and humectant (a substance used in makeup to absorb water). When mixed with oils, butters, and other natural ingredients, it becomes a gentle addition to the medicine cabinet.

Beeswax cosmetics, like Burt’s Bees® products, are fairly easy to make at home. To get started, gather a few items such as extra virgin olive oil, a scented essential oil, and beeswax.

Try making a simple lip cream by mixing one part beeswax to four parts extra virgin olive oil. Melt the wax and oil together in a double boiler. Once the wax mixture is at the right consistency, let it cool and add a few drops of an essential oil like peppermint or spearmint. When the mixture is almost cool, pour it into small containers.

Hand creams are a bit looser in consistency. To make a hand cream, simply use more olive oil. Start with a mixture of one part beeswax to six parts olive oil. Mix the same way as the lip cream. Melt the wax in a double boiler, or put the wax into a pot and place that pot into a larger pot of boiling water. Melt the wax slowly and stir in the olive oil until it is completely mixed together with a smooth consistency. Remove the mixture from the heat and add in the essential oil of your choice. Try rose or lavender.

Bee Larvae

The larvae of honey bees are highly sought-after commodities, and in many parts of the world it is considered a delicacy. In China it often appears on restaurant menus, and in Vietnam it is possible to eat the larvae straight from the hive.

Bee larvae must be fresh for consumption, so it is important to have a buyer already lined up. Check the monthly newsletters and beekeepers publications for ads from companies looking to buy larvae and other bee products. Larvae can be sold fresh and powdered, and the bees must be free of disease and pests.

Check the state and federal laws before shipping products overseas and before purchasing any bee larvae.

Apitherapy

Apitherapy is the practice of using bee products for medicinal purposes and to promote healthy living and healing. It can be any bee product, like venom, honey, wax, propolis, or royal jelly. Apitherapy is used for the treatment of illnesses and health issues like gout, shingles, burns and cuts, multiple sclerosis, tendonitis, and other various wounds and infections.

Honey can be used as a dressing for burns, cuts, and scrapes. It is highly antibacterial and can help to keep wounds sterile and heal them faster.

Royal jelly is the food that bees produce for themselves and their brood. It is used in some cosmetics and touted for its revitalizing properties. You can even get royal jelly in capsule form and use it to aid in the treatment of many illnesses.

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There are some beekeepers who will harvest the pollen from bees as they enter the hive. Pollen can be used to alleviate allergy symptoms and build up a resistance to other allergens.

Propolis is used for several medicinal reasons and health issues. It is very antibacterial and found in many therapeutic and cosmetic creams.

Bee Venom

Bee venom is not just a poison — there are many useful functions for this deadly natural concoction, as well. Selling bee venom is a valuable part of many a beekeeper’s business but should be handled with care. A lethal dose for an adult human is considered to be 2.8 milligrams of venom per kilogram of body weight. For example, a person weighing 60 kg (132 pounds) has a 50 percent chance of surviving injections totaling 168 mg of bee venom.

Bees were used for medicinal purposes dating back to ancient times. Egyptians treated ailments and diseases with ointments made from bees. Writings from over 2,000 years ago show that the Chinese used it as well. Even Hippocrates mentions bee stings in his writings. Galen, a Greek physician and author, wrote about bee treatments, and Austrian physician Philip Terc wrote a paper titled “Report About a Peculiar Connection Between the Bee Stings and Rheumatism,” based on clinical studies for bee stings in 1888. All of these studies spread throughout Europe and into the United States. It was considered a “folk remedy,” but professionals in the medical field began to investigate its usage on a pharmacological level. Doctors started using the venom in injections for therapy. In recent times, people have begun practicing this kind of therapy by themselves without the help of professionals.

Bee venom is a viable commodity and used by people all over the world. Russia is best known today for using bee venom in therapy, but it is becoming more common across the globe. The clear, watery liquid is odorless. It is made up of several unstable components that can be lost if not collected properly. Venom is mostly water, with the remainder being a certain amount of proteins, peptides, sugars, and acids, many of which are also contained in a bee’s blood. Melittin is the main chemical compound found in bee venom. It is a very potent anti-inflammation agent. The other compounds provide pain relief and alter nerve pathway transmissions.

Venom is sought after mostly for the physiological effects it has on the human body. Traditional medicine has used bee venom for centuries in the treatment of rheumatism.

Bee venom therapy, or apitherapy, has been used to treat a long list of ailments like arthritis, epilepsy, asthma, myositis, neuralgia, malaria, and even temporary relief of cancer. It has been found that beekeepers who are often stung rarely have problems with their joints or muscles. Recently, bee venom has been deliberately used in the treatment of neurological disorders, such as multiple-sclerosis.

Bee venom can be used through natural bee stings, subcutaneous injections, electrophoresis, ointments, inhalations, or tablets, but it is a very dangerous substance. Bee venom therapy should only be performed by someone with extensive knowledge.

The venom is obtained by some doctors in glass vials to be injected under their patient’s skin. There are few side effects, but the idea is to actually create some inflammation, swelling, and itching. A few manufacturers provide high-quality venom products in the form of a balm or cream to be applied directly to the infected area. Many patients prefer this method.

Bee venom can be sold in any form, including whole bee extract, pure liquid venom, an injectable solution, and — most often — as dry crystals. It is complete in any form and ready for sale. Preparing the venom for sale must be done in extremely clean and hygienic conditions, considering it will be used on humans.

Bee venom extraction kits and myriad containers for storage and sale are available throughout the Internet. There are also tutorials and training courses online and in many communities.

Propolis

Propolis is the “bee glue” that bees make from the substances they gather from plants and trees. It is what they use to do various tasks in the hive like cover holes and make repairs. Bees use propolis because of its amazing antimicrobial properties to sterilize their home and make repairs.

It is necessary to remove it all from the top edges of your supers, or it will be difficult to open the hive during the winter. Propolis is extremely sticky when it is warm and when it is cooled; it becomes a glue that is nearly impossible to break through.

The best way to remove propolis is with a trap. Propolis traps are similar to queen excluders because they are constructed of a screen that is laid across the top bars of the hive. The trap must be small enough so that bees cannot squeeze through it. If the bees cannot get through the space, they will instinctively fill the holes with propolis. When it is full, you can remove and store it. When you are ready to use it, chill for a few hours, then smack it hard against an object; it will shatter into pieces that you can pick up and work with.

Propolis has several uses, from a tincture similar to iodine to a cream for scrapes, cuts, and minor abrasions.

To make a tincture, place one cup each of propolis and pure grain alcohol in a pot with a tight-fitting lid; heat on low. Every 10 to 15 minutes, shake the pan gently without removing the lid. Once is the mixture has completely dissolved, allow it to cool and strain through a coffee filter; place in a bottle when cool.

To make a cream, melt one tablespoon each of beeswax, propolis, honey, and paraffin. Once the mixture is cooled, pour into jars.

Mead

One of the most well-known honey products is mead. It is known as the drink of the gods, as Zeus was said to have consumed it regularly. The ancient Druids also produced and consumed mead. During the Middle Ages, it was wildly popular in the northernmost regions of Europe, where wine grapes were not easy to grow. With its past in the hands of the great gods, as well as in the tales of Druids and Viking warriors with great goblets of the golden liquid, most people who have never tried mead are in for quite a surprise upon their first sip. It is an amazingly delicious and delicate drink.

Mead is an alcoholic drink made from honey, water, and yeast that has been allowed to ferment. In the simplest of terms, it is a wine made from honey instead of grapes. It can also be made with a variety of fruits and spices. Mead is sometimes called by other names, depending on what fruits and spices have been used in its production. It is most often a clear liquid that has a slight golden tint. The alcohol level ranges between 7 percent and 24 percent, and it can have a dry or very full taste. The taste (dry or sweet) depends on when the fermentation was stopped and the amounts of honey and water used in proportion to each other. It can taste as light as a white grape juice, and as rich and full as a dessert wine. If the fermenting process continues while the product is bottled, it results in a bubbly drink similar to champagne. There are various types of mead and recipes, each with its own specific name:

Mead is brewed and then allowed to ferment. The yeast is the worker bee in this instance and does all the work of turning the mixture into a delicious beverage. Many beekeepers who have experience in this honey product suggest that boiling should be avoided; the mixture should be brought to a temperature just below boiling to allow the best flavor of the honey to shine through in the finished product.

The biggest downside to making your own mead is that it takes a long time. Six months is the average time most beekeepers will allow their mead to ferment. It can be longer, but certainly not shorter.

One important part of mead making is cleanliness. It is imperative to keep everything clean and sanitary. Using a bleach soak is one technique. Soak everything in a bucket of bleach for several hours before beginning. The yeast involved with the capped jug is like an incubator. As the yeast begins to work, it can become a hotbed for many types of bacteria to grow. Keeping the entire workplace sterile, as well as the utensils and equipment, is essential to making great mead.

For those who plan to sell their mead, a few tools are needed, such as a fermenter, a glass carboy, and an airlock. If you plan to sell your product, those items are necessary. For mead makers who simply want to experiment, you will need a few basic supplies: a gallon jug of spring water, a packet of yeast, a balloon, a rubber band, 2 to 3 pounds of honey, a small box of raisins, a sliced apple, and a clove.

Begin the process by pouring half of the water into a clean, sterile container. Place the honey in a sink full of warm water to make it easier to pour. Place the apple, the honey, half the box of raisins, a small clove, and the package of yeast into the jug. Add enough water until the level reaches 3 to 4 inches below the top of the jug. Cap the jug and shake vigorously for at least five minutes. The shaking mixes the yeast and also adds air to the mixture. The yeast needs a lot of air for the mead to taste its very best.

Remove the cap and put the balloon over the mouth of the jug. Wrap a rubber band around the mouth of the balloon to keep it in place. If the balloon seems to be getting too big, poke a hole in it; it will allow some of the gases to escape while keeping it protected from impurities.

Once the balloon starts to inflate, the process of mead making is under way. The gases that are forming inside the jug are gathering in the balloon. Set the jug inside a cabinet that stays cool and dark. Check it frequently to make sure the balloon is still in place.

By the third week, the balloon will deflate, signaling that fermentation is complete. Pour the liquid into a strainer then into another clean glass jug. Strain all the fruit and spices from the mixture into the new jug and put a clean balloon over the mouth of that jug.

Place the new jug into a cool, dry storage space. Leave for five months. Check on it every few days and watch as it grows clearer. Mead can also be entered in competitions and sold at novelty events like Renaissance fairs and Medieval festivals.

You can package and label your mead if you intend to sell it or give it as gifts. If you have chosen a name for your mead, make sure it is prominently displayed on the label. This enables your brand of this unique beverage to gather a foothold in the business.

Include information such as all ingredients used and the date it began to ferment next to the date it was bottled and packaged. True mead drinkers enjoy having this information and are hesitant to purchase or drink anything without this information. Remember once again: If you sell any food or beverage from your home, you must have a license.

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