ABOVE: Table Mountain watches over yachts in the harbour at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront.
Much praise has been lavished on the beauty of Cape Town and its surrounds. In fact, the compliments have been flooding in ever since Sir Francis Drake rounded the subcontinent back in 1580 and proclaimed it ‘the Fairest Cape’. Today’s tourists regularly vote Cape Town one of the world’s top destinations, classing it among a select number of ‘places to see before you die’.
Even the briefest of visits to this historic city, sheltered in the protective embrace of Table Mountain, will reveal that there is little exaggeration in all the acclaim. The coastal drives around the peninsula offer many scenic surprises – turn a corner and find a raging sea straining against sharp cliffs, push on to the next bend and the frame becomes quietly pastoral. The vistas are matched by a history equally dramatic in which a clutch of cultures melded to form a unique community. Indigenous, Asian and European influences have added colour and variety to architecture, cuisine and entertainment.
Much of iconic Table Mountain is conserved by the Table Mountain National Park, which stretches across the peninsula. Besides the cable car ride up the mountain, a highlight is magnificent Cape Point at the southern tip and the rewarding views from its summit, reached by a short funicular ride. Mountains, ocean, beaches and forests offer a number of activities such as mountain biking, hiking, walking and birdwatching.
The region has a Mediterranean climate. Summers are long and average 15–27 °C on the coast, with an occasional heat wave. Inland temperatures are slightly higher. March and April are particularly pleasant. Winters are mild, around 7–18 °C at the coast and 5–22 °C inland, but this is the rainy season and spates of wet days are not unusual. A gusty southeasterly characterises spring and summer. Dubbed the Cape Doctor, it clears the skies of pollution and may have you chasing umbrellas on the beach, but it is great for some wind sports.
Much of the Western Cape falls into the Cape Floristic Kingdom – smallest of the six floral kingdoms of the world, but famous for its high diversity of plant species, most of them endemic. This floral wealth has earned the Cape Floristic Kingdom World Heritage Site status. Made up of eight protected areas covering 553 000 ha, this botanical heritage site includes an estimated 9 000 species of flowering plants and represents an astonishing 20% of all the floral species of Africa.
Fynbos (‘fine bush’, endemic heathland) is one of the Cape’s most distinctive vegetation types and contains the three largest of more than 100 fynbos families: proteas, ericas and restios. These can be seen in abundance in the Table Mountain National Park and at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden.
Situated on Rhodes Drive in Newlands, the 528-ha Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is one of Cape Town’s top attractions, renowned for its indigenous plants and themed gardens. On warm summer evenings, picnickers bring along snacks and drinks and enjoy the concerts that are held here.
Two creatures occurring along the peninsula coastline bump South Africa’s famed Big Five up to a Big Seven: the great white shark and the southern right whale. When the whales arrive between June and November, whale watching becomes an exciting pastime. Cape waters attract a number of shark species, and several shark-cage diving operators offer tourists a safe, close-up experience of these predators of the deep.
ABOVE: To mark his achievement of reaching the Cape, Bartolomeu Dias erected a stone cross, the Padrão de São Filipe, in 1488, a replica of which can be seen at Cape
ABOVE: The Cape Peninsula has a large population of chacma baboons, many of them resident at Cape
ABOVE: Cape Point is situated in the southern section of the Table Mountain National Park and offers splendid views of the ocean and surrounding mountains.
Long before European settlers arrived, family groups of San hunter-gatherers occupied southern Africa, from the hot Kalahari Desert and the desiccated Karoo to the more temperate eastern and western coastal lowlands. About 2 000 years ago, a wave of new immigrants reached the Cape’s shores when Khoekhoe herders, bringing with them cattle, sheep and the craft of pottery, moved into the region. Today the two groups are collectively referred to as the Khoe-San.
In 1488 Bartolomeu Dias became the first European to round the Cape, thereby opening a route to the East and heralding a frenzied period of empire building by the nations of the Northern Hemisphere. For nearly two centuries thereafter the Cape became a refreshment and repair stop for passing ships. English sailors had expressed an interest in annexing it in the early 17th century, but King James I was not keen. Neither were the Dutch, until the Dutch East India Company received a report by surviving sailors from the company trader Haerlem that had run aground in Table Bay during a storm in 1647. Based on their favourable description, the Company decided to establish a permanent refreshment station at the tip of Africa, and in 1652 Jan van Riebeeck was dispatched to the Cape to build a fort and lay out a garden. From then on the bay and its settlement would be known as the Tavern of the Seas.
Colonisation by the Dutch, and their encroachment on land used by the nomadic Khoekhoen, inevitably led to conflict, and a series of wars raged between 1659 and 1677. About that time, in 1657, the first slaves were brought to the small settlement at the Cape. Later, the Company also shipped in political prisoners who had been fighting for independence from Dutch rule in Indonesia. Among these were teachers of Islam, or Auliyah (‘friends of Allah’).
The biggest problem facing the Dutch was protecting their sea route to the East, which they were able to do until 1795. At that time the Netherlands was under French occupation and so, to prevent the Cape from falling into the hands of Napoleon Bonaparte, British forces engaged the Dutch at the Battle of Muizenberg. Britain handed the Cape back to the Dutch in 1803 when the situation in the Netherlands had improved, but retook it three years later at the Battle of Blaauwberg when French control strengthened again, and so began 155 years of British rule.
All of these influences have left a mark on the architecture of the region, the most notable of which is the Cape Dutch style characterised by ornate gables on buildings, many of which were laid out in an ‘H’ shape. Outbuildings included stables, coach houses, wine cellars and slave quarters. Later Capetonians favoured flat-roofed, double-storey homes in the style of the Koopmans–De Wet House in Strand Street (Cape Town), now a museum. Other architectural styles to look out for are the colourful homes and mosques of the Bo-Kaap, the Herbert Baker influences of the 1890s in constructions such as Rhodes Memorial and St George’s cathedral, and the art deco buildings of the 1930s and 1940s in the CBD. More recent trends include the modern, geometric mansions overlooking the beaches of Clifton and Bantry Bay, their vast windows making the most of the Atlantic Seaboard’s spectacular views, and the spurt of boutique hotels featuring ‘afro-chic’ interiors.
ABOVE: The historic walls of The Castle of Good Hope are dramatically lit at night.
Some of the Muslim holy men brought to the Cape as political prisoners were of noble birth; those who died here were buried in shrines known as kramats or mazaars. The kramats, many of which look like miniature mosques, can be found from Muizenberg to Mowbray, with four on Signal Hill. The most visited by pilgrims is that of Sheikh Yusuf, in the dunes at Macassar. He was the first to read from the Qur’an in South Africa, and is regarded as the father of local Islam. Other important kramats are those of the last Malaccan sultan, Sheikh Abdurahman Matebe Shah, at the gates to Klein Constantia, and of Sheikh Sayed Abdurahman Maturu on Robben Island.
ABOVE: There are a number of kramats in and around Cape Town, revered within the Muslim community.
ABOVE: The spectacular Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden boasts a massive array of indigenous plants.
Completed in 1679, the Castle of Good Hope is the oldest building still in use in South Africa. It is designed in the shape of a pentagon; its thick stone walls were once lined on the inside with residences, government offices, storerooms and stables. The entrance, planned to resemble the brick-and-stone town approaches common in the Netherlands, was topped by a belfry in 1682. A few years later, the internal courtyard was divided in two by a Kat, or defensive wall. On either side were the official quarters of the governor and senior staff, as well as a great hall with an ornamental balcony from where official proclamations were read out.
The best preserved of all the Dutch East India Company castles, it was declared a national monument in 1936. Extensively renovated during the 1980s, it is today the Western Cape headquarters of the South African army, and open to visitors. On show are a number of military exhibits, the Castle Military Museum and the William Fehr Collection of artworks depicting early life at the Cape. Around November, it hosts the annual Cape Town Military Tattoo.
Once a symbol of oppression, Robben Island was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. The island lies in Table Bay and has superb views of Cape Town, 9 km away. On its highest point, Minto Hill (only 30 m above sea level), rises one of the oldest lighthouses in the Southern Hemisphere.
But it is as a place of banishment and exile that it achieved notoriety. Miscreant sailors were offloaded here, as were Muslim activists rebelling against Dutch colonisation in the East. The British banished troublesome chiefs here, and for a time it was used as a leper colony. Finally, in 1960, the government constructed a maximum-security prison on the island to incarcerate anti-apartheid activists, among them Nelson Mandela.
Robben Island is now a living museum. Tours leave from the Nelson Mandela Gateway at the V&A Waterfront and include a boat trip across Table Bay, a visit to the prison and a bus tour of the island.
Commander Simon van der Stel was appointed governor of the Dutch settlement at the Cape in 1679. Six years later he was granted the right to select a tract of land for his personal use and chose a valley he named Constantia. There he planted vines, orchards and oak trees, and built the first of the great Cape homesteads. Today, Groot Constantia is one of the leading tourist attractions of the region. Accessed along an avenue of oaks, the manor house features gables, dungeons and a stone bath in which the slaves washed their feet before pressing grapes. A wine cellar with a pediment depicting Ganymede and Bacchus was added later.
ABOVE: The 19th-century Victorian guest house on Robben Island consists of the old Dutch reformed parsonage and British Commissioner’s residence.
After the death of Van der Stel in 1712, the estate was divided into three: Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia and Buitenverwachting, all of which constitute the Constantia Wine Route.
Iziko Museums of Cape Town maintains three venues at Groot Constantia: the beautifully restored Manor House is a must for those interested in early Cape history; the Orientation Centre contains artefacts from the early days of the estate; and the original Cloete Cellar houses historical drinking vessels and wine-making equipment. There are also conference facilities and the fine Jonkershuis Restaurant, which specialises in Cape Malay cuisine. Weather permitting, there is no better way to enjoy this national heritage site than with a picnic on the lawns overlooking the vineyards.
Founded in 1825, this museum focuses on natural history and the human sciences. Its nucleus is a social and maritime history collection obtained in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The oldest museum in the country, it is set in the Company’s Garden in central Cape Town. A modern planetarium was added in 1987.
The sixth municipal district in Cape Town once housed a racially mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, labourers and immigrants and was renowned for its vibrancy. But it was brought to an end by apartheid – its residents were forced to leave; their homes flattened by bulldozers.
The District Six Museum preserves memories of the once lively area, as well as the history of forced removals, through collections, exhibitions and education programmes. It is located in the old Methodist Mission church in Buitenkant Street.
ABOVE: The District Six Museum pays tribute to the vibrant and diverse community of District Six, prior to forced removals during apartheid.
Cape Town central includes the city bowl and central business district (CBD), the V&A Waterfront and the Atlantic Seaboard. It is a hive of fun and entertainment – all in one compact area – where visitors can shop, enjoy sidewalk cafés, visit heritage sites or simply soak up the beauty of this magnificent city.
Located on Darling Street, the City Hall, built in 1905, overlooks the Grand Parade that was once the parade ground of Dutch troops.
ABOVE: Cape Town’s City Hall and Grand Parade.
Situated on Upper Adderley Street is the oldest garden in South Africa, planted by Jan van Riebeeck in 1652.
Explore the cobbled streets, colourful houses and local restaurants of the Bo-Kaap, home to some of Cape Town’s Muslim community. A visit to the Bo-Kaap Museum is a must.
Cobblestoned Greenmarket Square hosts one of Cape Town’s most popular open-air markets where local arts and crafts, clothing, sunglasses and African curios are for sale.
ABOVE: Colourful Bo-Kaap houses.
This suburb is a friendly place with a number of restaurants, delis, quaint old buildings and sports facilities, not forgetting the Cape Town Stadium, renovated extensively for the 2010 FIFA World Cup™.
The main road of this seaboard suburb is lined with restaurants, shops and nightclubs, and has an excellent beachfront promenade for seaside walks.
ABOVE: Nelson Mandela Gateway, launching point of the Robben Island ferry.
This popular destination in Cape Town’s working harbour has more than 450 stores, a wide variety of restaurants, arts and crafts markets and a worldclass aquarium. It is also the gateway for tours to Robben Island.
One of the finest on the African continent, the Two Oceans Aquarium celebrates South Africa’s marine treasures. It is situated at the V&A Waterfront and is a great place to visit with children.
ABOVE: Table Mountain cable car.
Take a 5-minute ride in the Cableway’s revolving cars to the top of Table Mountain and enjoy incredible views of the city, the ocean and surrounds. There are 12 viewing sites and decks, and several marked trails.
Although sometimes fondly referred to as a grownup fishing village, Cape Town is a world city with a wealth of restaurants, pubs, nightclubs and entertainment venues, many of which are situated in Long Street – the hub of the city’s nightlife scene.
ABOVE: The candy-striped Green Point Lighthouse, built in 1824 and the oldest in the country, is situated alongside the Green Point promenade.
ABOVE: The colourful Cape Minstrel Carnival, also known as Tweede Nuwe Jaar (second New Year), epitomises local Cape culture.
Cape Town is one of the world’s most picturesque cities. The cosmopolitan centre is framed by majestic Table Mountain on one side and the blue Atlantic Ocean on the other. It is an ultramodern African metropolis where high-rise buildings housing big corporates dwarf historic monuments. This is a city comfortable with its contrasts; one that celebrates its diversity. It also boasts many gorgeous beaches, Camps Bay and Clifton being the hot favourites nearest to the city bowl.
Simon’s Town, beneath a ridge of mountains in False Bay, is South Africa’s principal naval base. In its time, it has seen everything from pirate brigs and slavers to the ships of the world’s leading navies.
There is a lot to do in and around this town, including visiting four excellent museums: Simon’s Town Museum, the South African Naval Museum, the Warrior Toy Museum and the Heritage Museum. Visitors can also go on guided historical walks (starting just beyond the railway station alongside Admiralty House) to explore the town’s heritage (booking is essential). A visit to Boulders Beach, where you can stroll along a boardwalk to see the African penguins, is an absolute must.
Kalk Bay is idyllically set on a slip of land between mountain and sea. This tranquil village is perfect for a lazy day spent ambling along and viewing the many antique, curio and clothing shops that line the main road. It is a place where people go to dine, and there are a number of excellent restaurants to choose from. Feasting on prawns and beer at the legendary Brass Bell is an enticing prospect. This eatery is situated on the seaside of the railway line; incredible ocean views are served as part of the deal.
A highlight is a visit to the colourful working harbour where fresh fish can be bought as they come off the boat. For a taste of local culture, the famous Kalky’s offers the best fish and chips. For energetic visitors, the mountain behind Kalk Bay is pocked with caves to explore.
ABOVE: Rhodes Memorial, built in remembrance of Cecil John Rhodes, offers a panoramic view of Cape Town’s southern suburbs and beyond.
ABOVE: Kalk Bay is a bona fide fishing harbour and a great place to buy fresh fish straight off the boat.
ABOVE: Simon’s Town’s main road has a variety of shops, galleries and restaurants to entertain the passer-by.
ABOVE: Chapman’s Peak Drive – one of the finest routes along the Atlantic Seaboard – affords spectacular views.
Fantastic beaches can be found along this stretch of the Cape Peninsula. Horse riding on Noordhoek’s Long Beach is very popular and there are a number of riding schools in the area. You can also work up an appetite by walking along the beach to the wreck of the Kakapo (1900). Noordhoek Farm Village has some lovely shops and eateries, or try the famed Red Herring restaurant and bar.
Near Kommetjie, you can join the Masiphumelele Township walking tour and learn about the local Xhosa community. Scarborough is a sleepy little beach town, great for picnics, surfing and sundowners. While here, see if you can spot the aptly named Camel Rock.
A visit to the nearby Cape Point section of the Table Mountain National Park is a must. The point was initially called Cabo Tormentoso (Cape of Storms) by Bartolomeu Dias when he made his first tumultuous rounding; King John II of Portugal later changed it to Cabo da Boa Esperança (Cape of Good Hope) as the turn of the land gave hope for finding a sea route to India.
Apart from dramatic, pristine beaches, fynbos, baboon, buck, zebra and ostriches, highlights include the old lighthouse (238 m above the ocean), the Vasco da Gama beacon and Dias cross, the Padrão de São Filipe.
Take a drive over Chapman’s Peak to visit Hout Bay harbour and enjoy seafood at the Mariner’s Wharf restaurant. There’s a great fish market here, too, and trips to see the seals on Duiker Island can be booked in the harbour, where there is also a small museum.
ABOVE: Seagulls serenade in Hout Bay harbour, another great spot to buy the catch of the day and enjoy the sights and sounds of a working harbour.
The historical suburb of Constantia, reached from Hout Bay via Houtbay Road, is closely linked to the wine heritage of the Western Cape. The leafy, upmarket suburb is home to the Constantia Wine Route and some of the oldest vineyards in the country. This green belt lies to the south of Kirstenbosch and is known for its oak trees, farm stalls, Cape Dutch architecture and wines. The five vineyards that make up the Constantia area are Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig and Steenberg. There are several award-wining restaurants here, making it a food-and-wine lover’s heaven.
This funky suburb in the southern suburbs is known for its fun restaurants, bars, coffee shops and somewhat bohemian vibe. Close to the University of Cape Town, the large student population of ‘Obz’ peacefully co-exists alongside other residents who have made this arty suburb their home. There are quaint houses situated along the narrow Victorian streets and excellent food stores, street cafes and unpretentious pubs on Lower Main Road. The Groote Schuur Hospital overlooks Observatory from a distance.
Framed by the Hottentots Holland and Helderberg mountain ranges, this scenic part of the Cape offers a mix of attractions. The townships of Crossroads, Langa, Nyanga, Guguletu and Khayelitsha are home to a vast number of Western Cape residents. There are various guided township tours in these sprawling communities. Visitors usually get the chance to see a local shebeen (bar), visit a sangoma (traditional healer), and browse in an arts and craft centre. The Lwandle Migrant Labour Museum outside Somerset West commemorates the township’s origins. Lwandle was established in 1958 as a single-sex hostel to house migrant labourers working in the fruit and canning industry in the Western Cape.
For nature lovers there is the Edith Stephens Wetland Park in Philippi with 37 bird species and a number of reptiles, as well as the endangered Isoetes capensis plant (a diminutive water fern on the Red Data List of Threatened Species) that dates back some 200 million years. The Helderberg Nature Reserve on the outskirts of Somerset West is well known for its 100-year-old oak trees and excellent hikes.
• Dungeons big wave surfing off Hout Bay
• Tandem skydiving at Melkbosstrand
• Paragliding from Lion’s Head
• Abseiling from Table Mountain
ABOVE: Abseiling down Table Mountain is a popular choice for adventureseekers visiting the Mother City.
There are excellent hiking trails in and around Cape Town – too many to mention in detail, but maps are available at the Information Centre at the V&A Waterfront. Some popular choices are:
• The guided ‘slackpacking’ Hoerikwaggo Trail (3 days), starting at the V&A Waterfront and ending at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden
• Pipe Track (1–3 hours) from Kloof Nek
• Lion’s Head walk (2 hours) from Signal Hill Road, especially popular on a full-moon night, when hikers ascend in time to watch the sun set and the moon rise
• Skeleton Gorge and Nursery Ravine hikes (2–3 hours each) from Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden
• Platteklip Gorge (3 hours one way) from Tafelberg Road to the top of Table Mountain, with the option of either walking both ways or taking the cable car in one direction
• Constantia Corner Path (3.5 hours) from Constantia Nek
