ABOVE: The West Coast is a place of laid-back hospitality and unassuming natural beauty.
The West Coast is known for its scenic beauty, warm hospitality and great seafood. This coastline is best explored slowly, on a loose itinerary without rigid time constraints. Drive north along the N7 or R27 from Cape Town and watch the pace of life slow down as the hustle and bustle of the city is replaced by picturesque fishing towns.
The West Coast has contrasting landscapes – there is the beautiful and sometimes desolate coastline, rolling wine and grain farms, the rugged Groot Winterhoek and Cederberg wilderness areas and the fertile Olifants River Valley.
Wind-blown shores along the West Coast are stabilised by hardy vegetation. Granite can be found in low outcrops as you approach the Langebaan area, and from the road you can see pronounced hills, often covered in fynbos, between the ocean and lagoon.
The cold Benguela Current accounts for the chilly winter weather, and an icy ocean – even in summer, when the West Coast is hot and dry with frequent strong winds. Spring is a great time to visit when temperatures are mild and the plant life is prolific, most splendidly evident in the displays of wild flowers.
The climate in the Olifants River Valley varies from that of the coastal region. Winters in the valley are chilly and wet, while summers are generally hot and dry, with temperatures sometimes soaring to 40 °C. Rain falls in winter, from May to September, and the area is often covered in mist in autumn. The climate is suitable for citrus farming and the citrus blossoms are a sight to behold. Millions of cases of fruit are packed here during the picking season that stretches from May to October.
Fishing has been part of life along the West Coast for hundreds of years. The major concentration of fish in these waters is due to vast amounts of plankton and nutrients brought in by the north-flowing Benguela Current. Seventy percent of all line-fish caught on the West Coast (mainly snoek) is landed at Yzerfontein harbour. Crayfish season extends from November until the Easter weekend each year, but you need a permit to catch a daily quota. Fynbos grows in this part of the world and in springtime the West Coast is renowned for its colourful displays of wild flowers.
Away from the coast, in the Olifants River Valley, mountain fynbos predominates. On the lower slopes of the Cederberg, visitors will find yellow daisies, wild olive trees, laurel proteas, buchu, rooibos tea and ridderspoor. Clanwilliam cedars grow on the upper cliffs, high above sea level. Wildlife is abundant, particularly in the Cederberg Wilderness Area where there are baboon, Cape clawless otter, aardvark, leopard and a variety of antelope, including klipspringer, duiker, grysbok and grey rhebok. Small predators include cacaral, bat-eared fox, African wild cat and Cape fox. More than a hundred bird species can be spotted, including a number of raptors such as rock kestrel, jackal buzzard and Verreaux’s (black) eagle.
A number of monuments, museums and memorials commemorate the history of the West Coast. Long before European explorers braved the oceans around the Fairest Cape, the indigenous Khoekhoen populated the area. Their clans included the GrigriQua, ChariGuriQua and CochoQua.
Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese seafarer, made amicable contact with the GrigriQua when he landed at St Helena Bay in 1497. Unfortunately, expansion of the small settlement at the Cape and exploration of the northern coastal region brought the later 17th-century colonists in conflict with various bands of the local Khoehoen. These indigenous people were nomadic and followed set grazing routes throughout the year that coincided with the availability of seasonal grazing lands for their cattle. This practice of transhumance, the antithesis of private property, resulted in land disputes and eventually conflict between the Khoekhoen and the colonists. Today, a mixed bunch of people make up the lively human landscape of the West Coast.
ABOVE: That Darling is a prime agricultural centre is evident in the many vineyards and wheat, dairy and sheep farms, as well as striking, yellow canola fields.
Negotiating the West Coast is easy, and there are a number of small towns and villages that deserve a visit, so make sure you have time on your itinerary.
This Jewel of the West Coast is celebrated for its incredible bird life and wealth of spring flowers that bloom when sunny skies chase away the winter rains. The expansive Langebaan Lagoon, with its lovely beach, is the focal point of the park. At Kraalbaai, on the western side of the lagoon, stop to see Die Preekstoel (‘pulpit rock’), a fascinating 4-m rocky outcrop.
Within the park is the Postberg Flower Reserve, open to the public only for the flower season in August and September. Further north is the West Coast Fossil Park, a place rich in fossils that is regularly visited by palaeontologists.
ABOVE: The West Coast National Park has some wonderful hiking options, including one- and two-day walks, and a cycling trail.
The picturesque mission village of Mamre, with its oak trees and small whitewashed cottages, is an architectural gem. It was established as a cattle post in 1701 to protect the settlers’ cattle from being stolen by the Khoekhoen. In 1807, the year after the Cape Colony once again came under British control, three farms in the area belonging to the former Dutch East India Company were transferred to the Moravian Missionary Society, and Mamre became a thriving mission station. There are several historical buildings in Mamre including the Old Mamre Moravian church, the Mamre School, the parsonage, the Old Mill and the Long House.
ABOVE: The Evita se Perron theatre is the brainchild of one of Darling’s best-loved residents, satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys.
Yzerfontein is some 80 km north of Cape Town. The name, meaning ‘iron fountain’, is derived from a spring in an ironstone formation about 3 km inland. Yzerfontein is renowned for its long beach and beautiful holiday homes. Whale watching is also a favourite pastime in these parts, with whales mating and calving in the bay during the winter months. Cormorants and seagulls abound on the little island of Meeurots (‘gull rock’).
Dassen Island, just 10 km southwest of Yzerfontein, is the main breeding ground of the African penguin. There are some 68 000 penguins on this 4,5-km-long by 2-km-wide island. Travellers can go to Dassen Island by boat and either enjoy sundowners on board or kayak around the island while watching the birds return to roost.
Travel along the R315 from Yzerfontein towards Malmesbury to reach the quaint town of Darling. The area is famed for its fynbos and wild spring flowers (more than 1 000 species). There are a number of private floral reserves in the area as well as one of the largest orchid nurseries in South Africa – Duckitt Nurseries on Oudepost Farm. The town has been made famous by South African satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys, and visitors are welcome to book tickets for performances at his theatre, Evita se Perron, at Darling station. Apart from theatre, Evita se Perron showcases arts and crafts made by the local community. Woodwork, pottery, beading and jewellery can be bought at Evita’s shop, and most of the proceeds go to community projects.
Families from all over South Africa head to Langebaan during the school holidays for seaside fun and recreation. This beach resort sits on the eastern shore of Langebaan Lagoon, which stretches some 17 km northwest to Saldanha Bay, and is well loved by water sports enthusiasts. Langebaan once supported the largest whaling station in the southern hemisphere; today it is the gateway to the West Coast National Park.
ABOVE: The beautiful Langebaan Lagoon is popular for its excellent water sports opportunities.
ABOVE: Die Winkel op Paternoster offers anything from home-baked biscuits to collectables and antiques.
ABOVE: Visitors to Velddrif can try bokkoms, a dried fish delicacy found along the West Coast.
This town is particularly popular in spring when flowers blossom en masse. Founded on the banks of the Zoute River in 1853, there are fossil displays at the nearby Elandsfontein farm, and the cast of ‘Saldanha Man’, an early hominid, can be seen at the local tourism office.
The country’s largest natural harbour, the port of Saldanha, lies with the West Coast National Park to its south and the Berg River mouth to its north. Fishing, oyster farming and the processing and exportation of iron ore are the major industries here that provide employment for many people along the West Coast. Visit the French Huguenot memorial for a touch of history. Hiking, flower viewing, whale watching and water sports are popular activities.
North of Saldanha lies the town of Vredenburg, the commercial heartland of the West Coast and a major distribution centre. It was founded as a Dutch Reformed parish close to a spring called Twisfontein in 1875. These days the main activities are wheat and sheep farming. If you are on a self-catering holiday, Vredenburg’s well-stocked supermarkets are an excellent place for buying supplies before filling up on fuel and continuing your journey along the coast.
About 10 km southeast of Vredenburg is the West Coast Fossil Park. Founded in 1998, it is one the richest fossil sites in the world. Displays include fascinating information on species that have been extinct for 5 million odd years, among them sabre-toothed cats, giant bears and several kinds of animals that were previously unknown.
The West Coast really comes into its own about 20 km northwest of Vredenburg as you approach the quaint fishing village of Paternoster, whose name is said to come from the prayers uttered by Portuguese sailors crawling ashore from a shipwreck in the adjacent bay. Crayfish netting and fishing are the principal economic activities in Paternoster, yet the seaside village is also gaining a reputation for some excellent restaurants and upmarket guest houses. Just 5 km from Paternoster you will find Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, which was established to conserve the indigenous sandveld fynbos. Along the road from Paternoster to the reserve, you pass the Cape Columbine lighthouse, built in 1936.
St Helena Bay has an interesting claim to fame – it is said to be the only major centre along the West Coast where the sun rises over the sea. It was here that Vasco da Gama first set foot on South African soil during his epic voyage around the Cape in 1497, and the Vasco da Gama Nautical Museum at Shelley Point is a must-see. St Helena Bay offers great opportunities for both whale and dolphin watching and is a popular holiday destination.
Velddrif, where the Great Berg River meets the ocean, is a laid-back fishing town. An unassuming place, it incorporates the upmarket resort of Port Owen, the scenic harbour at Laaiplek and the seaside resort of Dwarskersbos, known for its wide, inviting beaches and whale watching. Try the bokkoms, a West Coast dried-fish delicacy. Port Owen Marina is popular for yachting, while the Rocherpan Nature Reserve is excellent for birdwatching and is part of the Flamingo Birding Route.
This quaint West Coast village is situated on Verlorenvlei (‘lost marsh’), the largest freshwater wetland on the West Coast. It boasts abundant bird life and spring wild flowers. There are many historical attractions nearby including San rock art, the South African War battle site at Vegkop, and old buildings.
At the mouth of Verlorenvlei lies the relaxed village of Elands Bay. The marsh, which stretches for almost 30 km from Redelinghuys to Elands Bay, is home to a variety of bird species including pelicans, coots, ducks, Egyptian geese and flamingos. In addition to its spectacular bird life, Elands Bay is also a popular surfing destination.
At the mouth of the Jakkals River is Lambert’s Bay. Once just a fishing village, it is now a West Coast tourist magnet. Many come to visit the impressive Bird Island, which houses a busy breeding colony of Cape gannets. There is also excellent whale watching. For those who enjoy a bit of history, the Sandveld Museum has some interesting artefacts and antiques. There are a number of decent resort-type lodgings in Lambert’s Bay, as well as a few good restaurants.
Named by Dutchman Jan Danckaert, who claimed to have seen hundreds of elephant in the area, the Olifants River Valley officially forms part of the West Coast area. However, the towns here are rather different to those along the coast. This scenic river valley – running between the mountains of the Cederberg, Matsikammaberge, Bokkeveldberge and Gifberg – starts north of Ceres in the Skurweberg and Witzenberg mountains and stretches as far as the tiny coastal town of Papendorp. Despite its rugged appearance, the area’s fertile soil supports abundant citrus orchards and vineyards.
The Olifants River Valley is the hub of the rooibos tea industry. The story goes that when settlers arrived in the valley, they noticed that the Khoekhoen produced a potable beverage from the leaves of a ‘red bush’. Today the area is said to produce more than 3 000 tonnes of tea a year. You can enjoy a tasting at Rooibos Limited in Clanwilliam and enjoy the Rooibos Heritage Route between Wuppertal and Nieuwoudtville.
ABOVE: The Kardoesie farm stall in Piekenierskloof, with its beautiful views of the scenic and historic pass, is a great place to stop off for a bite to eat.
Like Vredenburg, Citrusdal was founded as a Dutch Reformed parish, and, as the name suggests, it is surrounded by citrus orchards. The natural hot springs, called The Baths, are a key attraction, as is the Citrusdal Museum, which pays tribute to the Khoe-San and the early pioneers. Take the Piekenierskloof Pass for glorious views of the Cederberg, orchards, valleys and wheat fields in the distance.
Stretching from the Middelberg Pass just east of Citrusdal to the north of Pakhuis Pass at Clanwilliam is the Cederberg Wilderness Area that covers 71 000 ha of rugged, mountainous terrain. The Cederberg forms part of the Cape Fold Belt and consists mainly of Table Mountain sandstone. Two of the most impressive rock formations in the area are the Wolfberg Arch and the Maltese Cross. The Cederberg is renowned for its ancient rock art found at more than 1 000 sites including caves and rocky overhangs. The rock art dates back to between 1 000 and 10 000 years.
In 1814, some 90 years after the first settlers arrived in the Olifants River Valley, the governor of the time, Sir John Cradock, changed the name of the town from Jan Dissels Valleij (after a botanist Jan Dissel) to the current Clanwilliam (after his father-in-law, the Earl of Clanwilliam). The town has many historical attractions including the Old Gaol and Magistrate’s Court that date back to 1808, St John’s Anglican Church dating to 1867 and the Dutch Reformed church of 1864. The local velskoen factory that makes shoes from animal hide should not be missed, and visitors should stop at some of the local wine cellars that are part of the Olifants River Wine Route.
Clanwilliam Dam is a must for water sports enthusiasts. It was built in the 1930s to irrigate the area and is now a popular angling spot. The Ramskop Nature Garden, located at the dam, has various wild flower species and a great viewpoint with panoramic views over the valley.
Some 50 km from Clanwilliam is the Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat. It offers relaxing spa experiences combined with rock art excursions and hikes in the Cederberg.
Lying in the rather remote Tra-Tra Valley, on the fringes of the Cederberg, Wuppertal is a tranquil town that was founded in the 1830s by Johann Gottlieb Leipoldt (the grandfather of author and missionary C Louis Leipoldt) who opened a Moravian mission station on a farm called Rietmond. Today’s visitors can explore a number of well-mapped-out 4x4 routes or ride in a donkey cart from Wuppertal to Heuningvlei via the Pakhuis Pass. There is also a rooibos tea factory that is open from January to April, the official tea season.
Established in 1944, this town is the hub of the Olifants River Valley agricultural region and is known for its fresh vegetables and grapes. Like Clanwilliam, there are numerous wine cellars nearby, which form part of the Olifants River Wine Route. For the adventurous, there is the Bergkraal 4x4 Route. It is also a good base from which to explore the Cederberg Wilderness Area before moving on to Namaqualand.
Dating back to 1923, Lutzville is a typical rural enclave, but it does have the second-largest wine cellar in the Southern Hemisphere, which offers tastings and cellar tours. An interesting excursion from Lutzville goes to Seal Island with its evidence of past sealing activities.
Doringbaai has great ocean views and a friendly atmosphere. The most important economic activities centre on a rock-lobster processing factory and offshore marine diamond mining.
Situated north of Doringbaai, Strandfontein (‘beach fountain’) is named after a spring that surfaces near the beach. It is a popular holiday resort and its long white beach is a major draw card.
Situated close to the mouth of the Olifants River, the fishing village of Papendorp offers good angling and birdwatching opportunities. Situated further inland on the banks of the river is Ebenhaezer, a small settlement that was established in 1831. From here book your place on the Crayfish West Coast Hiking Trail.
ABOVE: The people of the West Coast are relaxed and welcoming.
• Tandem skydiving with Skydive Cape Town just outside Atlantis
• Surfing, including windsurfing and kitesurfing, at Yzerfontein
• Sea-kayaking at Paternoster
• Scuba diving and shipwreck diving, with 37 wrecks found between Yzerfontein and Elands Bay
• Underwater photographic safaris at Paternoster and Langebaan
• Water sports such as kitesurfing, windsurfing and kayaking on Langebaan Lagoon
• Surfing at Elands Bay
• Mountain biking at Boschkloof Farm Cottage in Citrusdal and Kromrivier Cederberg Tourist Park, bordering the Cederberg Wilderness Area
• Quad biking at the Quad Farm in Citrusdal
• Quad-biking tours into the Cederberg from Clanwilliam
• Rock climbing, fishing, horse riding and rock art excursions at Kromrivier Farm in the Cederberg
• Gyrocopter trips and microlighting in Strandfontein
ABOVE: The Wupperthal shoe factory is famous for its hand-sewn velskoene, red ones being particularly popular.
ROUTES AND TRAILS
• Crayfish West Coast Hiking Trail (3–4 days) from Elands Bay to Ebenhaezer
• Strandveld Educational Hiking Trail (2 days) at the West Coast National Park
• SAS Saldanha Nature Hiking Trails, including the Red Route (14,5 km), the Yellow Route (11 km), the Green Route (9,6 km) and the Blue Route (4 km)
• Various coastal hiking trails through the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, including two day trails
• Cederberg 4x4 trails of various distances
• The Boegoeberg 4x4 Trail (30 km) near Clanwilliam
• Cederberg/Wuppertal 4x4 Route (1.5 day)
• Numerous hiking trails in the Cederberg Wilderness Area. Hikes to the Wolfberg Cracks and Wolfberg Arch require reasonable fitness levels; permits are available from one of the local farmers. Permits for the Maltese Cross can be bought at Dwarsrivier Farm.
