ABOVE: Neat rows of trellised vineyards nestle against the backdrop of Simonsberg near Helshoogte.
With its rich history, stately Cape Dutch houses, panoramic views, world-class wines, good food and diverse cultures, the Boland is one of the most popular tourist regions in South Africa. Spectacular valleys surrounded by towering mountain peaks, sheer cliffs and fynbos-covered slopes create breathtaking scenery. Blessed with fertile soil, crystal-clear mountain streams and an ideal climate, the Boland is the centre of South Africa’s wine industry and is also the country’s largest producer of deciduous fruit.
To the south the region borders on the Over-berg, while the Hex River Mountains form a natural boundary with the Warm Bokkeveld to the north. The rugged Franschhoek Mountains demarcate the eastern boundary and in the west the sandy plains of the Cape Flats separate the Boland from the Cape Peninsula.
The Boland has a typical Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers. Moisture-laden air from the ocean provides some relief from the heat, but inland temperatures can reach into the mid-30s. The infamous southeasterly wind, commonly referred to as the Cape Doctor, reaches gale-force strength in summer. Winters are wet and cold, especially in midwinter when the high mountain peaks are often snow-capped. The rainy season starts in May and can last until early October. The winters are mild though with rainy spells followed by sunshine, clear blue skies and moderate to warm temperatures.
The Boland Mountain Complex is one of eight separate conservation areas of the Cape Floral Region, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. Covering a mere 0,04% of the earth’s land surface, this floristic kingdom is richer in plants than any similar-sized area in the world.
One-fifth of the total number of species that make up the Cape Floral Region has been recorded in the Boland Mountains; among them are the spectacular king protea, South Africa’s national flower, and the highest concentration of mimetes (pagoda bush) in the Western Cape. The vegetation is especially pretty in winter and spring when the mountain slopes are covered in masses of flowering ericas and proteas. The Hottentots Holland, Jonkershoek and Limietberg nature reserves and the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve form part of the Boland Mountain Complex.
Large mammals are poorly represented in the region but baboon, dassie (rock hyrax), klip-springer, common duiker and Cape grysbok are among species likely to be seen.
The Cape rock-jumper, orange-breasted sun-bird, protea seedeater, Cape sugarbird and Victorin’s warbler are among the more common endemic fynbos birds.
Originally, San hunter-gatherers and groups of pastoral Khoekhoen inhabited the region. The Khoekhoen grazed their livestock near Table Bay from December to March, when they would set off with their herds on a circular route that would eventually bring them back to Table Bay in the early summer.
When Jan van Riebeeck stepped ashore in April 1652 to establish a refreshment station for the Dutch East India Company, he was surprised to find hardly any Khoekhoe pastoralists in the area. They finally arrived with their herds in at the end of the year, but by mid-January they had moved on again. Van Riebeeck therefore sent several expeditions into the interior to barter for cattle in an effort to obtain fresh meat for the vessels of the Dutch East India Company. He also established gardens to supply grain and vegetables to passing ships.
The first vines were planted in 1655 and on 2 February 1659 the commander at the Cape noted in his dairy, ‘Today, thanks to God, wine has been pressed for the first time from the grapes of the Cape ...’
During an inspection tour of the interior in 1679, Governor Simon van der Stel and his party camped at a spot known as Wilde Bosch (‘wild bush’). Van der Stel was so enchanted by the place that he named it De Colonie van Stellenbosch and established an agricultural settlement there.
A cool climate and rich soils provided ideal conditions for the cultivation of grapes. Van der Stel planted 100 000 vines in the Constantia Valley in 1680 and also encouraged the establishment of vineyards further afield in Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek.
But it was the arrival of the French Huguenots in 1688 that brought about vast improvements in the Boland’s early viticulture. Many of the Huguenots hailed from the wine regions of France and they brought with them an intimate knowledge of the art of wine making. Disaster struck in the 1880s when overproduction and an outbreak of phylloxera almost destroyed the burgeoning industry. Many wine farms in the Drakenstein Valley were bought and amalgamated under the name Rhodes Fruit Farms – a company formed by financier, magnate and politician, Cecil John Rhodes. Farming switched to deciduous fruit and the valley played an important role in the establishment of the Cape’s fruit export industry. Some wine farmers persisted and replanted their vineyards, but it was the formation of the Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging (KWV) in Paarl in 1918 that laid the foundations of South Africa’s modern wine industry.
ABOVE: Magnificent hand carvings on the vats in KWV’s Cathedral Cellar in Paarl depict the history of wine making in South Africa.
The stately Cape Dutch manor houses that form the centrepiece of many historic Boland wine farms are part of the region’s unique architectural heritage. A U-plan and T-plan developed from the most basic design, the L-shaped house, but the ultimate symbol of wealth and status was the elegant H-shaped layout.
An integral feature of these magnificent thatched homesteads (built up to the first half of the 1800s) is the gable that ranged from plain leg-of-mutton and holbol specimens (common during the 18th century and featuring concave–convex curves) to the baroque and neo-classical examples that became popular in the early 19th century.
ABOVE: Lanzerac’s magnificent Cape Dutch manor house, in the Jonkershoek Valley, was built in 1830.
ABOVE: La Concorde, the headquarters of KWV on Paarl’s Main Street, features an imposing facade.
Stellenbosch Wine Route
Established in 1971, the Stellenbosch Wine Route was the first of its kind in South Africa and now consists of five sub-routes with over 146 winery members. The district is renowned for its gracious estates with their stately Cape Dutch manor houses and award-winning wines. Delheim, Alto, Spier, Blaauwklippen and Neethlingshof are among the very well-known estates.
Stellenbosch is also the starting point for the Western Cape Brandy Route, which includes 13 producers in Stellenbosch, Paarl, Wellington and Franschhoek.
Paarl Wine Route
The granitic soils of the Paarl area are ideally suited to the production of red wines and so the Paarl Wine Route is also affectionately referred to as the Red Route. Estates like Backsberg, Landskroon and Laborie have become household names, while Fairview with its characteristic ‘goat tower’ produces an extensive range of goat’s, sheep’s and cow’s milk cheeses in addition to a wide range of excellent wines. The historic Nederburg is host to the prestigious Nederburg Wine Auction each year.
Franschhoek Wine Route
Established in 1984, the Vignerons de Franschhoek (an association of wine growers) strives to uphold the French tradition of wine making in the Franschhoek Valley. The area produces award-winning white wines, dry white blends and Méthode Cap Classique sparkling wines made according to the traditional French Méthode Champenoise.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinotage are among the red varietals grown in the valley. The Franschhoek Wine Route comprises 19 producers, ranging from well-known estates such as Bellingham, Boschendal and L’Ormarins to boutique wineries.
Wellington Wine & Brandy Route
Blessed with an excellent climate and fertile soil, the Wellington area is a major grower of cuttings for the wine industry. Excellent white and red wines, as well as brandy, are produced by the 25 estates, cooperatives and wineries on the Wellington Wine & Brandy Route.
Tulbagh Wine Route
The sandstone and shale soils of the Tulbagh Valley are particularly well-suited to delicate white wines, but good-quality reds are also produced in the area. Theuniskraal, Twee Jonge Gezellen and Montpellier are well-known wine estates on this wine route.
Breedekloof Wine Route
The Breedekloof Wine Route meanders along the course carved by the Breede River and includes Rawsonville, Goudini and the spectacular Slanghoek Valley. This route has 23 members, among them well-known producers such as Badsberg and Slanghoek.
Worcester Wine Route
The Worcester district accounts for close to 25% of the total volume of grapes produced in South Africa for wine making. White cultivars predominate in this area, which produces excellent dry and semi-sweet white wines, dessert wines and brandies.
ABOVE: The chapel on Montpellier Estate in Tulbagh is a popular venue for weddings.
BRANDY – THE NOBLE LIQUOR
The first brandy from Cape wine was distilled by the assistant cook of the ship De Pijl in 1672. The country’s brandy industry has come a long way since Colonel Bird recorded, in 1822, that Cape brandy was ‘even worse than its wine’, and South African brandies have won numerous international awards in recent years.
The Western Cape Brandy Route – the first of its kind in South Africa – was established in 1997 and includes cellars in Stellenbosch, Paarl, Wellington and Grabouw. Worcester is a major producer of wine for brandy and the KWV cellar complex in town, with its 120 Woudberg copper pot stills and enormous maturation cellar, is the largest of its kind in the world. Worcester is also the starting point of the R62 Brandy Route that continues to Robertson, Montagu, Barrydale, Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn and De Rust.
ABOVE: A tour of the KWV brandy distilling cellar in Worcester provides a fascinating insight into the art of brandy making.
Founded in 1679, Stellenbosch is the oldest town in South Africa after Cape Town. The ancient oak trees lining the streets are a distinctive feature of the town, which is also known as Eikestad (‘oak town’). There is no better way to experience its old-world charm than to set off on foot with a copy of the pamphlet Historical Stellenbosch on Foot, obtainable from the local tourism office.
Dorp Street, with its gabled Cape Dutch houses and row of early 19th-century Cape Georgian houses, is one of the most attractive streets in the country. The Braak (‘village square’) initially served as a military training ground. Kruithuis, a whitewashed building with a barrel-vaulted roof and surrounding wall, was built as a powder magazine in 1777, while St Mary’s Anglican church on the northern side of the Braak dates back to 1852. The Rhenish complex, a mixture of Cape Dutch, typical English and Cape building styles on the western side of the Braak, is regarded as one of the best restoration projects in the country. A complex of four buildings from different periods of the town’s history comprises the Stellenbosch Village Museum: the 1709 Schreuder House, the 1782 elegant, double-storied Grosvenor House, the Bletterman House (a typical 18th-century Cape Dutch building) and the home of OM Bergh.
Stellenbosch is a well-known education centre and the integration of the University of Stellenbosch campus within the townscape lends a special atmosphere to this historic town.
ABOVE: The oldest oak trees in Stellenbosch date back to about 1760.
ARTS AND CRAFTS
• Set amid vineyards, the Rupert Museum in Stellentia Avenue (off Dorp Street) houses a unique collection of over 350 paintings, sculptures and tapestries. The gallery has three exhibition spaces: one for international art and two for 20th-century South African art.
• The Stellenbosch University Museum consists of the US Art Gallery and the Sasol Art Museum. Regular exhibitions by contemporary artists and students of the university’s Fine Arts Department are held in the US Art Gallery in the old Lutheran Church (built in 1814) in Dorp Street.
• The Sasol Art Museum has a permanent collection of 19th- and 20th-century art, artefacts from the Klasies River Caves (the site where the oldest known human remains in South Africa have been unearthed) and an extensive anthropological collection.
• The Rembrandt van Rijn Art Gallery in Stellenbosch is at Libertas Parva, a striking Cape Dutch homestead built in 1783. The permanent collection includes sculptures by Anton van Wouw, the famous nude by the Italian sculptor Giacomo Manzù and a 3,8-m-long panorama of Cape Town in 1808, painted by Joseph Jones.
• Cultural events ranging from orchestral music, opera and jazz to drama, dancing and ballet are staged at the Oude Libertas Amphitheatre in Stellenbosch from late November to end March. Concert-goers can enjoy spectacular views of the vineyards and mountains from the 430-seat open-air theatre on the slopes of Papegaaiberg. It has become a tradition to bring picnic baskets to the popular Sunday-night twilight concerts.
• Organic fruit and vegetables and handmade crafts are on sale at the Organic Farmers Market held on the lawn in front of the historic Mon Repos homestead at Oude Libertas every Saturday morning.
ABOVE: Oom Samie se Winkel, an authentic general dealer’s store in Dorp Street, is one of the town’s landmarks and a major attraction in Stellenbosch.
ABOVE: Members of the Royal Africa Corps built the Franschhoek Pass under the supervision of Major William Holloway. It was completed in 1825.
ABOVE: The Kruithuis in Stellenbosch is the only remaining Dutch East India Company-era powder magazine in South Africa.
ABOVE: Mooiberg Strawberry Farm’s delightful scarecrows are a well-known sight along the Stellenbosch– Somerset West road.
Nestling in a beautiful valley of the Berg River, Paarl is also known as ‘the town below the rocks’. The glistening appearance of one of the three granite domes so much resembled a pearl that Abraham Gabbema, the first Dutch official who reached the valley in October 1657, named it Peerlberg (‘pearl mountain’). The first 23 farms along the Berg River were awarded by Governor Simon van der Stel in October 1687 and several of the Huguenots who arrived at the Cape the following year settled here.
A 2-km stroll through the town’s historic heart begins at the landmark Strooidakkerk (‘thatched roof church’) with its scrolled gables. Consecrated in 1805, it is the oldest church building still in use in South Africa. Zeederburg Square opposite the church is overlooked by a cluster of buildings with Cape Dutch, Victorian and Georgian features. The walk ends at the Dutch Reformed parsonage (the neo-classical gable bears the date 1787) that houses the Paarl Museum. It portrays the area’s history and has a fine collection of early Cape furniture, silverware and porcelain.
KWV, one of the largest wine cooperatives in the world, has its headquarters in Paarl. The world-famous Cathedral Cellar with its barrel-vaulted roof, lightly tinted windows and huge vats decorated with carvings depicting the history of wine making is the highlight of a tour of the famous cellar complex. Paarl’s vineyards are renowned for their red wines, especially Shiraz.
The 11-km-long Jan Phillips Mountain Drive winds to the summit of Paarl Mountain where a scramble up Paarl Rock and Bretagne Rock is rewarded with spectacular views of vineyards, the lush Berg River Valley, Du Toit’s Kloof Mountains and Table Mountain.
BIRTHPLACE OF A NEW LANGUAGE
The campaign to get Afrikaans recognised as an official language was launched in the house of Gideon Malherbe in Paarl in 1875. Today, the Afrikaans Language Museum in Gideon Malherbe House has interactive multimedia exhibitions on the diverse roots, history, development and future of Afrikaans. Dominating the southern slopes of Paarl Mountain, the imposing Afrikaans Language Monument also commemorates the origins and development of the language.
ABOVE: The Afrikaans Language Monument, with its 57-m-high main column, is a landmark in the Paarl area.
Groot Drakenstein lies midway between Franschhoek and Paarl. Elegant Cape Dutch manor houses grace the estates of Lekkerwijn, Meerlust, Bellingham and Rhone. Bien Donné, an experimental fruit farm, is renowned for its herb garden, lavender fields and Cape Dutch homestead with its elaborately decorated neoclassical front gable.
Built in 1812, the Boschendal manor house is widely regarded as one of the most impressive examples of Cape Dutch architecture. A ring-wall encloses the H-shaped manor house on three sides, and a historic water furrow runs along the eastern side. The wine cellar, coach house, slave quarters, poultry house with built-in nesting boxes, and a threshing floor form part of the historic farm. Boschendal manor is furnished with antiques from the 17th and 18th centuries and has a priceless collection of Ming porcelain and glassware of the VOC (Dutch East Indian Company). It is open for public viewing.
The picturesque settlement of Pniel at the foot of Simonsberg in the Dwars River Valley was established as a refuge for freed slaves who had no abode after completing a four-year apprenticeship following the abolition of slavery in 1834. They built modest houses and established orchards, vineyards and vegetable gardens on the smallholdings allocated to them. A mission church, parsonage and school were built in 1843. The Fountain of Freedom, unveiled in 1993, is a reminder of the settlement’s origin.
Franschhoek lies in a spectacular setting of verdant vineyards, orchards and imposing mountain peaks at the head of the Drakenstein Valley. Historic farms with names such as Chamonix, Plaisir de Merle, Cabrière and Mont Rochelle are reminders of the Huguenots who settled here after fleeing religious persecution in France in 1688. The Huguenot Memorial commemorates these immigrants and their contribution to South Africa’s culture, while the adjacent Huguenot Museum is an information and research centre.
Franschhoek was proclaimed a town in 1845 and its architecture ranges from graceful Cape Dutch houses on wine estates to Victorian, Edwardian and Cape Dutch revival-style buildings. Several fine Victorian homes with cast-iron decorations line the upper end of Cabrière Street. The Dutch Reformed church with its neo-gothic and Cape Dutch features dates back to 1847, while the Old Parsonage was most likely built before 1850.
Fine cuisine complements outstanding wines – several of South Africa’s most acclaimed restaurants are in Franschhoek, earning it the reputation of the ‘gourmet capital of South Africa’.
One of the most unique collections of vehicles in the world can be viewed at the Franschhoek Motor Museum on the L’Ormarins wine farm.
ABOVE: The striking Huguenot Memorial in Franschhoek was inaugurated in 1948 in commemoration of South Africa’s French heritage.
ABOVE: Fine restaurants and quaint arts and crafts outlets line the streets of Franschhoek, a tranquil Boland country town.
Overlooked by the rugged Limietberge, the settlement established on the banks of the Kromme River was originally named Limiet-vallei (‘border or frontier valley’). The area became famous for its wagon-making industry and, following the settlement of French Huguenots at the end of the 1600s, became known as Val du Charron (‘valley of the wagon maker’). Today it is the centre of South Africa’s dried fruit industry.
When the town was proclaimed in 1840, it was named in honour of the hero of the Battle of Waterloo, the Duke of Wellington, who had defeated Napoleon 25 years earlier.
The Market building, dating back to 1847, is among the fine structures fortunate to have survived a disastrous fire that destroyed most of the town’s old buildings at the beginning of the 1900s. The nearby Dutch Reformed church was built in 1840, but its tower was only added 51 years later.
Ouma Granny’s House, a beautiful Victorian cottage, houses a valuable collection of antiques, while an interesting collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts, traditional musical instruments and jewellery, and Stone Age artefacts can be viewed in the Wellington Museum.
The founding of the Huguenot Seminary in 1874 and the establishment of the country’s first teachers’ training college in 1896 in Wellington are reminders of the important role the town has played in education.
Wolseley was established in 1875 where the Breede River winds its way between the Waaihoekberge, Witzenberg and Watervalberg. Deciduous fruit cultivation is the main activity here, but dairy, cattle and sheep farming is also practised. Two stone blockhouses built by the British in the early 1900s to protect the railway line south of the town are reminders of the second Anglo–Boer War of 1899–1902 (also known as the South African War).
Tucked away between the Ubiqua Mountains, Grootwinterhoekberge and Witzenberg, Tulbagh was founded in 1795 and named after then Governor Ryk Tulbagh.
Church Street has the largest concentration of historical buildings in the country – all of them carefully restored to their early- and mid-19th-century splendour after a devastating earthquake in 1969. Mon Bijou, a magnificent double-storied Georgian-style building, Ballotina with its unusual gable, and Paddagang, which dates back to 1821, are among the eye-catching architectural treasures in Church Street. Oude Kerk (‘old church’) with its elegant Baroque gable and attractive gateway is the centrepiece of the Volksmuseum complex that also has three annexes, at 4, 14 and 22 Church Street.
ABOVE: Tulbagh is renowned for its magnificent historical homes, which were meticulously rebuilt after an earthquake virtually destroyed the town in 1969.
ABOVE: A rich diversity of succulents bursts into bloom in the Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden in late winter and spring.
The Oude Drostdy, 4 km north of the town, was built in 1806 as a seat of local government and justice. It is the headquarters of a well-known winery and is furnished with an exquisite collection of early Cape furniture.
Also known as the ‘Capital of the Breede River Valley’, Worcester is the hub of the largest wine and fruit-growing district in the country.
Church Square is the historical heart of the town, which was founded in 1819 and named after the Marquis of Worcester, the brother of the British governor at the time, Lord Charles Somerset. Several gabled houses are among the fine Cape Dutch buildings in Church Street.
The Worcester Museum complex consists of four houses dating from the mid-19th century to the early 1900s. Beck House, a Cape Dutch homestead, has been furnished as a typical late 19th-century country house. Stofberg House next door dates back to 1920, while the Afrikaner Museum depicts an early 1900s doctor’s consulting room, dentist room and attorney’s office. A collection of paintings by two famous South African artists, Hugo Naudé and Jean Welz, is on permanent display in Hugo Naudé House.
Kleinplasie (‘little farm’) on the outskirts of Worcester consists of replicas of buildings representing different agricultural activities. The lifestyle of the pioneer farmers and the development of agriculture until around 1940 are portrayed in this interesting open-air museum. Visitors can watch demonstrations of home industries such as bread baking and soap making, as well as seasonal activities such as grape pressing and sheep shearing.
The Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden is situated in the foothills of the Brandwacht Mountains on the northern outskirts of town. It was established to conserve the rich and diverse flora of the Succulent Karoo biome. Plants from different Karoo regions can be seen in the garden’s cultivated section, while the remaining 144 ha have been left untouched. The aloes and geophytes (bulbous plants) flower during autumn and winter, but it is the spectacular displays of spring flowers that draw the crowds.
Worcester is known for its educational institutions, including special schools for the hearing impaired, the deaf and the blind.
A dense patchwork of vineyards makes the Hex River Valley one of the most spectacularly scenic areas in South Africa. In summer the vineyards are deep green; in autumn the leaves are transformed into a breathtaking kaleidoscope of colours – rich reds, orange, russet and shades of brown. Bounded by the Hex River Mountains and the Kwadousberg, the valley is one of the largest producers of table grapes in the country.
The Hex River Valley is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts with activities ranging from rock climbing, hiking and 4x4 trails to mountain biking and guided excursions to rock art sites.
ACTIVITIES
• Rafting trips (1 day and overnight) on the Breede River near Worcester
• Exotic-butterfly viewing at Butterfly World near Klapmuts, with other attractions including an aviary, spider room, iguana cage and a meerkat enclosure
• Nineteen lions, including a rare white lion, can be seen at Drakenstein Lion Park, also near Klapmuts
• Animal viewing in environmentally friendly enclosures at Giraffe House, between Stellenbosch and Paarl, with other attractions including jungle gyms, a giraffe jumping castle and free-flying bird and reptile shows
• Guided crocodile tours, and watching crocodiles being fed in summer, at Le Bonheur Crocodile Farm, between Paarl and Franschhoek
• Picnicking, swimming, braaing and antelope viewing at Wiesenhof Wildpark, 3,5 km from Klapmuts
• Falconry and flying demonstrations at the Eagle Encounters Raptor Rehabilitation Centre and close-up views of hand-raised cheetahs at the Cheetah Outreach at Spier between Cape Town and Stellenbosch
ABOVE: Jagged mountain peaks and sheer cliffs enclose the Jonkershoek Valley, just outside Stellenbosch.
ROUTES AND TRAILS
• Four Passes (320 km), Breede River (440 km), Paarl (155 km) and Ceres (280 km) fruit routes (round-trip distances from Cape Town)
• Limietberg Hiking Trail (2 days) in the Limietberg Nature Reserve near Paarl
• Seven different day walks (3–6 hours) in the Limietberg Nature Reserve
• Various trails (1–5 hours) in the Paarl Nature Reserve
• Nine walks (30 minutes–8 hours) in Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve near Franschhoek
• Five walks (2–7 hours) in the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve near Stellenbosch
