ABOVE: Scenic Hermanus, a popular weekend getaway from Cape Town, draws visitors with its excellent beaches and whale watching.
A drive about 60 minutes east from Cape Town will take travellers over the mountain into the far southern region of the African continent. This is the scenic Overberg, quite literally ‘over the mountain’. The Overberg stretches from Hangklip to the Breede River, bordered by the ocean to the south and the Langeberg mountain range to the north.
This fertile region produces fruit, flowers and wine, and there are great beaches, beautiful mountain passes, quaint towns and lots of local bonhomie. Sometimes known as the Whale Coast – so named because of the hundreds of gentle giants that visit these waters every winter – the Overberg coastline’s claim to fame is that it is here, at L’Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa, that the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet.
The Overberg has a predominantly Mediterranean climate. The days are long and warm in summer; February and March are when wine grapes are harvested and the southeaster makes its presence felt. April and May offer mild days, and sometimes there are heady north winds along the coast as well as misty conditions. June and July mark the rainy season.
The Overberg sports some of the finest expanses of indigenous fynbos vegetation and the coastline supports a variety of marine birds and wildlife. The UNESCO-recognised Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve boasts more than 1 600 species of indigenous flora and fauna.
ABOVE: The striking southern doublecollared sunbird is a common resident in the Overberg region.
The mountains of the Overberg presented a challenge even for the indigenous Khoekhoen who migrated with the seasons in search of grazing for their livestock. Later, for Jan van Riebeeck and the early settlers, the Hottentots Holland Mountains were a major obstacle that prevented expansion and exploration of the eastern interior. The first recorded crossing happened in 1662, by the fiscal Hendrik Lacus who traversed the mountain on a cattle-bartering expedition. Steep and dangerous, the pass continued to be the only link between the Cape of Good Hope and the eastern interior, and by the time of the arrival of the 1820 British settlers, an average 4 500 ox-wagons were using it annually.
In 1828, engineer Charles Michell was commissioned to build a new pass to the south of the old one. It was named after the then governor of the Cape Colony, Sir Galbraith Lowry Cole. These days, Sir Lowry’s Pass offers one of the most scenic drives in the Western Cape.
Several quaint towns lie along this section of coastline. It includes Rooiels, Pringle Bay and Betty’s Bay – all with excellent beaches, holiday accommodation and relaxed eateries, as well as fun outdoor activities. The area is part of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, the country’s first-ever proclaimed reserve of this kind. Highlights include the penguin colony at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay and the wild horses in the Rooisand Nature Reserve near Kleinmond.
A thriving resort town, Hermanus is said to offer the best land-based whale watching in the world. Listen out for the Whale Crier who sounds a kelp horn when he sights whales, particularly from June to November when the southern right whales arrive to mate and calve in Walker Bay. The annual Hermanus Whale Festival takes place at the end of September each year and is a major event on the tourism calendar. Fine beaches, great fishing, top-notch restaurants, and numerous art galleries and curio shops all add to the attraction of this popular holiday destination.
ABOVE: Hermanus boasts the world’s only Whale Crier, who blows his kelp horn to alert the town that the whales are making an appearance in Walker Bay.
This small Victorian village, located on the banks of the Klein River, is situated just 33 km from Hermanus. It is a leafy, relaxed town that has retained its original village market square as well as its historical architecture. Stanford boasts a microbrewery, where five types of beer can be tasted. The Stanford area, including the nearby Salmonsdam Nature Reserve, is known for its prolific bird life.
ABOVE: Stanford, situated on the Klein River, is a relaxed coastal town with a distinctly Victorian feel.
The fishing village of Gansbaai has become synonymous with great white shark-cage diving. Visit Danger Point Lighthouse, built in 1895, with its 360-degree views of the ocean. De Kelders and Klipgat caves are notable – the former is the only freshwater cave on this coastline, and the latter contains Middle and Later Stone Age deposits that provide an insight into the lifestyles of those who lived along this coastline as much as 65 000 years ago. Further exploration of the coastline will reveal the wrecks of the Johanna (1682), Nicobar (1783) and Birkenhead (1852).
A national heritage site, the village of Elim is the world’s southernmost Moravian mission station, founded by German missionaries in 1824. The Moravian church tower, at the centre of the village, houses the oldest working clock in South Africa. The nearby Geelkop Nature Reserve is known for its rare dwarf Elim fynbos.
ABOVE: The quaint village of Elim, a heritage site, retains much of its 1820 charm.
A popular stopover between Cape Town and L’Agulhas, Napier is a quiet rural enclave with decent accommodation and a few eateries and farm stalls. The town developed around the Dutch Reformed church, built in 1838. See the Ox-wagon Monument, the Rose Boats & Toy Museum and the All Sorts Militaria Museum collection.
ABOVE: The farm stalls and country shops in Napier are a good place to stop off and buy local produce.
Bredasdorp, the economic heart of a dairy- and wool-farming district, is known for its shops, galleries, restaurants and historical buildings. Visit the interesting Shipwreck Museum, the Merino Ram Statue and the Dutch Reformed church. There are three nature reserves in the vicinity – De Mond, Heuningberg and De Hoop.
Officially the southernmost town on the African continent, L’Agulhas is the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic oceans. Early Portuguese explorers named the area Cabo das Agulhas (‘cape of needles’) when they discovered that compass needles show no real deviation between magnetic and true north here. Local attractions include excellent hiking trails at Agulhas National Park and the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, built in 1849.
Struisbaai is a relaxed, resort-type destination known for its unbroken 14-km stretch of beach. Good swimming, surfing and other water sports are offered. The harbour was built in 1959 and is worth a visit. The restored fishermen’s cottages at Hotagterklip and the thatched Anglican church are heritage sites.
Arniston was named after the nearby wreck of the British East Indiaman Arniston (1815). The coastal town is also known as Waenhuiskrans (‘wagon house cliff’), after the Waenhuiskrans Cave, an enormous sea cave that is said to be big enough to house several ox-wagons. Arniston is a picturesque town, with quaint whitewashed cottages clustered together. It is lovely for swimming, and offers wonderful beach walks.
ABOVE: Sleepy Struisbaai is a fishing and angling paradise.
ABOVE: The famous lighthouse at L’Agulhas guides vessels in both the Indian and Atlantic oceans.
ABOVE: The quiet fishing village of Arniston, with its picturesque whitewashed homes and silky beaches, is an ideal seaside retreat.
ABOVE: The skilful craftsmen and -women at Kapula Candles in Bredasdorp create beautiful handmade candles.
During the 19th century, Malgas, on the western bank of the Breede River, was a busy inland port, with ships entering the river from the sea at Port Beaufort to deliver and collect goods at the small harbour. Today it is a popular weekend destination, with birding, fishing and water sports as some of its attractions. Nearby, at Cape Infanta – where the Breede River enters the sea – is the biggest whale nursery on this coast.
Head off the N2 near Steenbras River to the rural farming towns of Grabouw and Elgin. Fruit grows abundantly in this part of the world; the Elgin area in particular is known for its apples. Attractions include the Elgin Apple Museum on the banks of the Palmiet River, Elgin Valley tours showcasing the agriculture of the area, and eco-activities in the Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve and Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve.
There are a number of wine estates in the valley specialising in cool-climate wines such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Visit Paul Cluver Wines, South Hill, Elgin Vintners and the Thandi Wine Project, an initiative wholly run and managed by the local community.
Sometimes called the ‘Sleeping Beauty’ of the Overberg, Villiersdorp was founded in 1843. This tranquil rural village is surrounded by mountains and farmlands. The Villiersdorp Wild Flower Garden is known for its birds, fynbos and herbs. There are also numerous wine cellars in the area, and it is the only place in the country with its own Tractor Museum. Nearby Theewaterskloof Dam is popular with water-sport enthusiasts and anglers.
Caledon is renowned for its wild flowers, natural mineral waters and hot springs, and for hosting the largest population of the endangered blue crane. There are more than 50 wine estates in the area to visit and the Caledon Hotel, Spa and Casino offers fun and entertainment.
Head off some 27 km from the N2, along the R406, and you will find Genadendal (‘vale of grace’). Founded in 1738, it is the oldest Protestant mission station in South Africa, and the buildings around Church Square are all heritage sites. Visit the Mission Museum, Moravian church and Wagon House, and pay your respects at the famous pear tree, planted by Genadendal’s first missionary in the 18th century.
ABOVE: Local shops, like this one in Villiersdorp, offer the best food and wine from the area and are worth a visit.
ABOVE: Historical Genadendal is home to numerous heritage sites.
ABOVE: Caledon, at the foot of the Klein Swartberge, is renowned for its rolling landscapes, wild flowers and hot springs.
Located 6 km from Genadendal, Greyton lies in the foothills of the Riviersonderend Mountains and is a popular getaway for Capetonians. Attractions include many restored buildings such as St Andrews church, Greyton Lodge, the Post House, the Moravian church and the Smouswinkel. There are several trails through indigenous fynbos in the Greyton Nature Reserve. The Von Geusau chocolate factory should not be missed.
Situated 65 km north of Caledon on the N2, Riviersonderend lies at the centre of a wheat-farming community. It offers pristine mountain and river scenery and is renowned for its blue crane colonies.
Historical Swellendam, at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, is the third-oldest town in the country. Here the Drostdy Museum is worth a visit, as is the Dutch Reformed church on Voortrek Street with its four architectural styles.
Just a short drive south of Swellendam is the Bontebok National Park that supports a population of more than 200 of the antelope for which it is named, as well as Cape mountain zebra, grysbok, red hartebeest and grey rhebok. It also offers excellent birdwatching, hiking and mountain biking opportunities. To the north of the town is the Marloth Nature Reserve, an area of mountain fynbos and afro-montane forest.
Wedged in between Heidelberg and Swellendam, Suurbraak is a quiet rural town also known as Xairu (‘paradise’). Surrounded by the majestic Langeberg Mountains, some 7 km from the Tradouw Pass, this former mission station dates back to 1812, and many of the original houses are still standing.
ACTIVITIES
• Whale watching at Hermanus and various other coastal spots
• White-water rafting, abseiling and canoeing in the Hangklip–Kleinmond region
• Eco-adventures in the Fernkloof Nature Reserve above Hermanus
• Fishing in the Walker Bay Nature Reserve near Hermanus
• Penguin spotting at Stony Point, Betty’s Bay
• Fishing, fly fishing and angling in Hermanus and Gansbaai
• Tandem paragliding from the Raed-na-Gael launch spot in Hermanus
• Golf at the 18-hole Arabella Country Estate near Hermanus or the 9-hole course of the Kleinmond Golf Club
• Birdwatching in numerous places including the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve
• Shark-cage diving and shark viewing in Gansbaai
• Water sports on the Breede River
ABOVE: A drive from Gordon’s Bay to Pringle Bay along the R44 allows for dramatic views of this rugged stretch of coastline.
• Hiking trails in the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve
• Whale Trail (5 days) in De Hoop Nature Reserve, east of Bredasdorp
• Walks in the Harold Porter National Botanical Garden near Betty’s Bay
• Various hiking trails in the Fernkloof Nature Reserve near Hermanus
• Beebos Horse Trails outside Napier
• Spookdraai Hiking Trail (2 hours) at L’Agulhas
• Green Mountain Eco Route in Elgin Valley, with a variety of hikes and self-drive options focusing on flowers, wine, food, adventure or art and music
• Perdeberg Hiking Trail (5–6 hours) near Kleinmond
• Hikes in the Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve (the entrance is in Viljoen’s Pass between Grabouw and Villiersdorp)
ABOVE: The Drostdy Museum in Swellendam was built in 1747 and was originally the seat of the landdrost, or magistrate.
