ABOVE: The rugged Wild Coast has one of the most pristine coastlines in southern Africa.
The greater Transkei region is bordered by Port Edward in the northeast and the East London in the southwest, while the Indian Ocean and the highlands that stretch towards the Drakensberg make up the southeastern and northwestern frontiers respectively. The coastal section of this area of the Eastern Cape, known as the Wild Coast, is probably the most rugged, unspoilt stretch of coastline in South Africa. Here you will find waterfalls, densely forested areas, deep river gorges, long beaches that seem to go on forever and incredible rock formations shaped over the ages by mighty waves. Most visitors come here for the scenic beauty and hiking trails.
This place of gentle green hills is home to the Xhosa people. It was here that the struggle for freedom was born from oppression, and was nurtured by some of the greatest political icons of the modern age.
The Transkei region is a temperate summer rainfall area with spells of truly wild weather ranging from tornadoes to blizzards and howling gales along the coast. The geology and weather combine to make the Wild Coast among the most treacherous waters in the world, as the many shipwrecks along this stretch attest. On 26 February 1852, the troopship the Birkenhead, an iron paddle steamer, sank along the Cape south coast. This incident entered seafaring lore as soldiers helped women and children onto lifeboats before lining up on deck to go down with the ship to the beat of a drummer. It is, however, a myth that the Birkenhead established the practice of ‘women and children first’. This honour, in fact, goes to the Abercrombie Robinson, which sank in Table Bay a decade earlier.
In fact, the Wild Coast is more notorious for dishonour in shipping. When the Jacaranda cargo ship ran aground here in 1971, it is alleged that the captain was in his cabin with a prostitute while his drunken crew were all incapacitated, save for the 16-year-old at the helm. Two decades later the captain and most of the crew of the Oceanos abandoned ship and passengers when the Greek liner foundered in the same waters, leaving it to the South African entertainment staff to avert tragedy.
The Wild Coast is twitcher heaven with approximately 320 bird species, but the greatest attraction is the ocean – where dolphins and whales are regularly spotted and where the fishing is excellent. A new marine national park is planned for the Pondoland area.
Dwesa and Cwebe are two small nature reserves situated in the central region of the Wild Coast. Bordered by the Indian Ocean and grasslands, both nature reserves are covered by lowland forest but acacia scrub and grasslands can also be found in these parts. The reserves are known for a wealth of bird species and small mammals. At Dwesa, rare bird species such as the mangrove kingfisher and the Narina trogon can be seen, as well as a number of typical forest mammals including blue duiker, bushbuck, tree hyrax and samango monkey. Crocociles have also been introduced to the rivers. At Cwebe the bird life is excellent particularly at the Mbhanyana River where one can also spot Cape clawless otter.
Pre-1994, South African history is a litany of conflicts and rivalries between the many groups that lived or had interests in the region. These began shortly after the Dutch settlers arrived in 1652, but the most serious took place from 1779 onwards when white farmers moving eastwards came up against black groups for the first time.
There were nine Xhosa or Cape Frontier Wars between 1779 and 1879. In these, the Xhosa were pushed back, first beyond the Great Fish River and then the Great Kei River. In April 1856, between the Eighth and Ninth wars, disaster struck when the tribe acted upon a redemptive vision by a teenage girl from the Centane district, Nongqawuse. They slaughtered their cattle and destroyed their crops in the belief that this would drive the whites into the sea. It was an act that devastated them, leading to mass starvation and impoverishment, and so weakened the nation that it eased white incursions into their area, which was incorporated into the Cape after the last war.
ABOVE: With more than 320 bird species on offer, including kingfisher, the Wild Coast is a twitcher’s paradise.
ABOVE: Traditional Xhosa homesteads, with their expertly thatched roofs, dot the hills of the Transkei.
But the National Party did not want the Transkei when they came to power in 1948, preferring to confer nominal independence upon it. In the mid-1950s the Tomlinson Commission – an initiative of the Ministry of Native Affairs under the architect of apartheid, Hendrik Verwoerd – issued a report that would form the basis for the Promotion of Bantu Self Government Act, which created eight ethnic Bantustans, later called homelands, and became the foundation for grand apartheid.
The central premise of the homelands policy was that there was no black majority, but rather groups of ethnic minorities, of which whites were one. Only the whites were South Africans, as all the black splinter groups belonged in clearly defined areas to be excised from South Africa and eventually given ‘independence’. As part of this scheme the Xhosa homeland of Transkei was given self-governing status in 1963, which was extended to full ‘independence’ in 1976. It was reincorporated back into South Africa prior to the first democratic elections in 1994.
ABOVE: A Xhosa woman calmly smokes a traditional pipe in the same way as her ancestors before her.
Once known as Cintsa, this sleepy coastal village is situated some 45 km to the northeast of East London. While technically falling just outside the Transkei, it is often considered the gateway the region. Picturesque in the extreme, with unspoilt stretches of thick indigenous forests, this seaside village is popular with families who are privy to this coastline’s best-kept secret. The lagoon provides hours of fun for children and the area is also known for rock-fishing. A few choice accommodation options are available and there are one or two renowned seafood restaurants in the area.
Another quaint village on the Wild Coast, Haga-Haga, is the haunt of travellers who have the inside track on its spectacular beaches and fantastic fauna, including blue duiker and Cape clawless otter. Situated where the Nyara and Quko rivers meet, Haga-Haga is a conservancy area with a strong Xhosa heritage. Hiking, deep-sea fishing and nature trails are popular and it is a great place to buy Xhosa arts and crafts.
Situated some 85 km northeast of East London, Morgan’s Bay used to be rather difficult to get to because of shoddy roads, but the now-tarred road from Kei Mouth makes the journey easier than in the old days. Known for its great beaches and laid-back holiday feel, Morgan’s Bay is also celebrated for its contrasting natural beauty consisting of savannah, valley thickets, forest and fynbos. There are over 271 bird species in the area.
Kei Mouth is situated where the Wild Coast and Sunshine Coast tourism regions meet at the Great Kei River. Once a sleepy little coastal village, Kei Mouth has seen some major development in the past 10 years, and although it continues to be a laid-back seaside resort, there are a number of accommodation options to choose from. This village is a great place for family holidays. The beaches offer excellent surfing and swimming opportunities (Wacky Point in particular is a well-known surf spot), and there are excellent fishing opportunities in the area.
This was the capital of the nominally independent Transkei, and is the biggest centre in the region. Of interest here is the Nelson Mandela National Museum and old colonial buildings. The St James and All Saints churches are notable and the Umtata Museum covers the natural and cultural history of the Transkei and is worth a look. The Umtata Dam is popular for outdoor activities and the Madiba hiking trail is a favourite for visitors to the area.
The Nelson Mandela National Museum in Mthatha is a living memorial to this struggle legend.
South African liberation and international peace icon Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela was born of Tembu royal lineage at Mvezo in the Eastern Cape on 18 July 1918. Arriving in Johannesburg in the early 1940s, he enrolled at the University of South Africa (UNISA) to complete his law degree started at the University College of Fort Hare in the eastern Cape.
He joined the African National Congress (ANC) and in August 1943 took part in his first march in support of the Alexandra bus boycott. Soon the youthful Mandela was pushing to the front of resistance marches. He was also at the forefront of changing the direction of the ANC.
He was instrumental in establishing the movement’s Youth League in 1944 and its armed wing, Umkhonto weSizwe (MK), after it was forced underground. In 1963, while serving a three-year sentence for leaving the country illegally and inciting workers to strike, he was charged with treason and sentenced to life in prison.
Mandela was released on 11 February 1990 and played a pivotal role in South Africa’s peaceful transition, becoming the country’s first democratically elected president in 1994. For his efforts he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. As a tribute to the man and his work, the Nelson Mandela Museum was opened on 11 February 2000.
The museum focuses on three sites in the Transkei region of the Eastern Cape. At the impressive Bhunga building in Mthatha, the story of his life is celebrated in his own words alongside gifts he received during his presidency.
At Mvezo visitors can see where he was born. And at the Qunu Museum in Qunu, the village where he was raised, a youth and heritage centre has been built.
ABOVE: The Nelson Mandela National Museum in Mthatha celebrates the life and times of this great man, who was born in nearby Mvezo in 1918.
ABOVE: The famous Hole in the Wall, situated near Coffee Bay, is a delightful natural attraction along the Wild Coast.
With wide stretches of beach and a magnificent lagoon, Mazeppa Bay is something of a fishing haven along the Wild Coast. First Beach is extremely popular and travellers can walk over a 100-m-long suspension bridge to reach Mazeppa Island (which is sometimes only accessible by the bridge at high tide). The lagoon is popular for water sports and there are a number of hiking trails in the area.
The Haven Hotel is an institution. Located between the Cwebe and Dwesa nature reserves, the establishment has been going for over 50 years and is still going strong. Family-type activities on offer include horse riding (on the beach), golf, hiking, canoeing, snorkelling and lots of activities for kids. The fishing is excellent in this part of the world.
Situated at the mouth of the Nenga River, Coffee Bay is relaxed in the extreme. Rolling hills, long beaches and friendly locals make it a great holiday spot. A highlight is the spectacular rock formation known as Hole in the Wall, a rugged natural attraction sculpted by the ocean and the elements, situated some 8 km south of Coffee Bay.
There are a few notable eateries and pubs in the area, as well as several hiking trails, but otherwise life revolves around the beach. The Coffee Shack, a backpackers lodge situated at the Bomvu River mouth, is renowned for its bonhomie (and great New Year’s parties).
Something of a hippie hideaway, Port St Johns, at the mouth of the Mzimvubu River, retains a casual but slightly decadent demeanour. Besides the beautifully painted museum, there are none of the typical attractions of most towns. Rather, it offers a raucous marketplace and beautiful beaches accessed through thick forest. There are intriguing trails leading from the town into verdant hills, but it is advisable to take a guide before venturing out.
ABOVE: Port St Johns is said to be named after the Portuguese vessel São João, which ran aground nearby in 1552.
ABOVE: Hikes along the pristine beach are a popular activity in this part of the world.
