ABOVE: The coastal city of Durban, with its high-rises, palm trees and ocean views, is sometimes referred to as the ‘Miami of South Africa’.
The KwaZulu-Natal coast stretches from Port Edward in the southwestern corner of the province all the way northeast to Maputaland on the Mozambique border. It is lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean and incorporates many charming bucket-and-spade destinations along the way. The KwaZulu-Natal province is bordered by Mpumalanga in the north.
Durban, sometimes called eThekwini, hugs a wide lagoon of the Umgeni River. It is KwaZulu-Natal’s commercial hub and Johannesburg’s seaside playground. Luxury high-rise hotels define its Golden Mile beachfront where the vibe is always laid-back and friendly. The city has much to offer in the way of fantastic restaurants, fun hangouts and leisure venues. And for those who love the great outdoors, it is a beach and surfer’s paradise. Durban is also home to one of the largest Indian communities outside of India, and no visit to the city would be complete without an exploration into this fascinating culture.
The area is hot and humid in summer and warm in winter, which is why it is a year-round destination. One of the biggest selling points of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline is that 320 days of sunshine per year are guaranteed. During the summer months temperatures are frequently in the early 30s, but can reach over 40 °C in places like Maputaland.
Durban’s mangrove-girt and lush vegetation give it a tropical feel. Birds are plentiful as are small mammals, especially vervet monkeys. But it is the ocean that provides most interest. uShaka Marine World, the fifth largest aquarium complex in the world, is the ultimate marine fantasy park, housing 0,5 km of viewing tanks, 7 massive aquariums and 25 additional marine exhibits. The complex encompasses restaurants, shops and water fun rides.
A highlight on the calendar is the ‘sardine run’ around mid-June to July. In an annual migration, millions of sardines, hungrily pursued by a host of predators – from sea birds to sharks and dolphins – are swept north up the coast from their breeding grounds near the Agulhas Bank off the Cape coast. If the gigantic shoals come close enough inshore, locals and holiday-makers rush to gather up the little fish in buckets, nets or whatever they have to hand. Ragged-tooth sharks, nicknamed ‘raggies’, are found along the Aliwal Shoal off Durban’s South Coast. The South Coast is also a great place for dolphin watching, and it contains tropical sea life and corals as well as cold-water fish and sponges.
When Vasco da Gama sailed past on Christmas Day 1497, he named the area Terro do Natalia (‘territory of the nativity’). Natalia was later shortened to Natal. In 1824 Henry Francis Fynn obtained land from King Shaka, the famous chief and military genius who reigned over the Zulus until he was murdered by his half-brothers in 1828. Fynn established a trading and ivory-hunting post at the port.
The town grew and in June 1835 the residents changed its name to D’Urban in honour of Cape governor of the time, Sir Benjamin D’Urban.
The arrival of the Voortrekkers from the Cape startled King Dingane, Shaka’s successor, leading to the Battle of Blood River on 16 December 1838, in which the Zulus were defeated.
In 1842 the British came, but they were soon held under siege at Old Fort by the Boers. A long month later reinforcements arrived from Port Elizabeth and the Boers were defeated. When the British annexed Durban as a dependency of the Cape Colony in 1845, most of the Boers trekked again.
Durban took on a very British air until 1860, when the first Indian immigrants arrived on board the Truro as indentured labourers to work on sugar-cane farms. From the outset these new arrivals faced intense discrimination, which led to them taking a leading role in the Struggle for Freedom that started with the arrival of Mohandas Gandhi, later known as Mahatma (‘great soul’) Gandhi, in 1893.
Gandhi was born in India and arrived in the British colony of Natal to take up a position as advisor to a Durban law firm. He had intended to spend only a year in South Africa, but the racial slights he experienced convinced him that his help was needed to change things; he stayed for 20 years. In 1894 he founded the Natal Indian Congress, which later would be at the forefront of the struggle. Its philosophy was one of passive resistance, but when this proved inadequate he reformulated it into Satyagraha, Sanskrit for ‘truth and firmness’.
Spearheading a seven-year campaign of strikes and burning of registration cards, Gandhi was jailed on a number of occasions. While the government was able to violently quell this resistance, their methods caused an outcry, forcing them to negotiate concessions with him. Conditional on this, though, was that he leave the country, and in 1914 he returned to India.
But Gandhi’s stay here is not forgotten and there are a number of memorials to him in the Durban area.
ABOVE: The monument to Dick King and his horse, Somerset, was erected on Durban’s Victoria Embankment in 1915.
The South Coast, also known as the Hibiscus Coast, offers such an array of beach holiday destinations that visitors are spoilt for choice. It starts at Port Edward, ending at, but not including, Durban. The area is known for family beach holidays and resort apartments, and during the summer season hordes of holiday-makers from Gauteng make their way to the South Coast to enjoy fun in the sun. Umbrellas dot the beaches and small coastal businesses, shops and restaurants thrive in the holiday season.
Port Shepstone is the major town along this strip of coast; the famed Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve is about 40 km from here. Umkomaas lies at a river mouth, where visitors can hire boats and explore upriver. Other pleasant towns with typical beach attractions include: Southbroom, Ramsgate, Margate, Uvongo, St Michael’s on Sea, Shelly Beach, Pennington, Scottburgh, Illovo Beach and Amanzimtoti.
Durban’s Golden Mile between uShaka Marine World and the Suncoast Casino is the most frequented beach area in South Africa. Here, modern hotels rub shoulders with Art Deco establishments, restaurants, clubs, entertainment venues, and arts and crafts outlets. Running between the built-up area and the golden beach is a promenade that is a firm favourite of joggers, strollers, rollerbladers and buskers. Here too is the renowned Fitzsimmons Snake Park, and ornate rickshaws pulled by elaborately dressed Zulu men can be hired for a unique sightseeing spin.
ABOVE: Uvongo, on the South Coast, is a popular destination during the summer school holidays when families take time off to romp in the lagoon.
ABOVE: Yachts are a familiar sight in Durban. The city has two yacht clubs, namely Royal Natal and Point.
Berea, an exclusive suburb of Durban, is perched on a ridge overlooking the city. Known for its varied architectural styles including Edwardian, Art Deco, Victorian and super modern, it is a lovely quarter whose streets are lined with trees.
Durban’s Botanic Gardens were founded in 1848 and today include an array of orchids, palms and subtropical trees as well as a mixed arboretum of Asian, American and African trees. The lovely Mitchell Park is a popular picnic area.
Greyville Racecourse is located in Berea and is one of the country’s famed courses, known especially for the Vodacom Durban July horse race that is a well-visited annual event.
Durban’s Florida Road is the place to be for visitors in search of great restaurants and clubs away from the frenzy of the beach area.
Over 30 eateries cater for nearly every taste, and, apart from these fashionable establishments, there is also a variety of eclectic shops, two boutique hotels and a number of comfortable B & Bs.
The shore from Durban to the Tugela River further north is known as the Dolphin Coast and offers some of the best beaches in South Africa with regular sightings of its namesake. The North Coast, however, stretches all the way until the Mozambican border, and its last section is called Maputaland. There are a variety of coastal towns to choose from and travellers can quite comfortably meander along the coast on a succession of wide toll roads and stop where the mood strikes them. While the more popular destinations are described below, other, quieter possibilities include Umdloti Beach, Umhlali, Sheffield Beach, Blythedale Beach and Zinkwazi Beach.
Durban’s suburb of uMhlanga Rocks has grown from a seaside village into an entertainment and business hub. uMhlanga is a family destination offering resort-type accommodation and child-friendly facilities. The boardwalk that stretches along the beachfront from the Breakers Resort to the postcard-pretty uMhlanga lighthouse is a favourite with joggers and power-walkers. In past years it has taken a beating from Mother Nature, when massive waves and flooding did some serious damage, but is slowly being rebuilt.
Home to local mogul Sol Kerzner’s first hotel, The Beverley Hills (also known as the ‘Heavenly Bills’), and the historic Oyster Box Hotel, the area now features glitzy high-rise establishments and apartments to rival Miami’s in stature and style.
There is much to do in the area. An informative visit to the Natal Shark’s Board (the shark research centre responsible for protecting South Africa’s beaches and renowned for its painstaking marine research and conservation work along this coastline) is recommended. A number of cruise operators offer opportunities to enjoy sundowners at sea and dolphin watching. For nature-lovers, the Hawaan Forest is recommended.
Fashionistas and shoppers will not want to miss the Gateway Theatre of Shopping, a gargantuan mall with cinemas (including an Imax theatre), shops, restaurants, fun activities for children and its very own wave park called Wave House.
Zimbali Coastal Resort, situated along the Dolphin Coast some 45 km north of Durban, is a residential, resort and golfing development sprawling over 700 ha that offers exquisite ocean views from various vantage points. Zimbali has two private championship golf courses and numerous activities are available.
Willard Beach, the main swimming beach at Ballito Bay, is safe for bathers as it is watched by lifeguards seven days a week and protected by shark nets. Ballito is a firm favourite along this coastline.
ABOVE: The Victoria Street Market in Durban is an excellent place to buy a multitude of Indian spices without breaking the budget.
ABOVE: Creative sand sculptures are something of a specialty among the artistically inclined who frequent Durban’s beaches.
ABOVE: Vervet monkeys and a variety of wild birds and small antelope may be found in the Hawaan Forest, near the uMhlanga Lagoon.
Salt Rock is yet another fabulous destination for family holidays. There are beautiful beaches complete with tidal pools, and there are lifeguards on duty. On the way to Umhlali passers-by will find the Flag Animal Farm with its playgrounds, tea garden and various activities for the children, including milking demonstrations and a petting farmyard.
This small village at the mouth of the Tugela River has an old fort dating back to before the Anglo–Zulu War. The Ultimatum Tree, a massive wild fig under which Cetshwayo was presented with the challenge that led to that war, is a national heritage site. The prevalent bird life and excellent fishing, both from the shore and deep sea, are its biggest attractions. The nearby Harold Johnson Nature Reserve has picnic and braai facilities, and there are several campsites for overnight visitors.
Richards Bay is South Africa’s largest harbour for bulk cargo of coal and steel. The town has an industrial character and is the largest commercial centre in the region. It boasts an airport that provides convenient access to Maputaland from the rest of the country.
A sleepy fishing village-cum-holiday resort, St Lucia is a good base for visitors heading off to the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and its major attractions, including Cape Vidal, Mission Rocks and Charter’s Creek. The Lake St Lucia Estuary is a well-known fishing spot and the coast off St Lucia is known for game fishing. Visitors can take a sundowner cruise across Lake St Lucia and spot crocs and hippos. Modest, but air-conditioned resort-type accommodation is available in town and there are a number of B & Bs.
The world-famous Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park is the largest of the province’s game reserves and considered by many to be its finest. Proclaimed as far back as 1895 as two separate parks – Hluhluwe and Umfolozi – the combined park currently preserves 96 000 ha.
Umfolozi gained international acclaim in the 1950s for its conservation project ‘Operation Rhino’ aimed at saving the white rhino from extinction. One of southern Africa’s densest populations of this once-threatened species, along with their black cousins, enjoys protection in today’s Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park.
ABOVE: White rhino, although herbivores, are massive beasts, typically weighing between 1 400 and 3 600 kg.
ABOVE: Lake St Lucia forms part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and is hippo and crocodile country.
ABOVE: Game viewing on the St Lucia Estuary is best done from the safety of a sundowner cruise.
Apart from the rhino, the remaining members of the Big Five are residents here, as is the rare endangered wild dog and a wide variety of other animals. Bird life is also prolific, and more than 300 species can be found here, including African finfoot, Rudd’s apalis, eastern bronze-naped pigeon and eastern nicator.
Visitors to the park can self-drive or take an open 4x4 game drive. Alternatives to exploring the parks include boat cruises on Hluhluwe Dam or self-guided walks. There are a number of beautiful picnic sites of offer, which provide ablution and barbecue facilities.
The jewel in the crown of Zululand is undoubtedly the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Its Zulu name tells you that ‘you are in the land of miracles’. It is said that when Shaka died his aide Ujeqe fled, as it was customary for them to be buried along with their monarch. Ujeqe wandered into Thongaland (present-day Maputaland) and on his return exclaimed, ‘I saw wonders and miracles in the flat land and lakes of Thonga’. iSimangaliso was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. It covers approximately 332 000 ha, including 220 km of pristine Indian Ocean coastline, and extends from the northerly Kosi Bay, where ancient fishing communities thrived, to past Maphelane in the south. The park is a robust interaction of eight interlinking ecosystems that are home to a profusion of fish, fauna and flora. Then there are the 25 000-year-old coastal dunes, which are among the highest in the world.
The South African version of the Great Barrier Reef, Sodwana Bay with its coral reefs is a favoured holiday spot of divers and snorkellers. The bay boasts a continental reef close to the shoreline, which makes for deep waters that are popular with fisherman. Places like Mabibi and Rocktail Bay can only be reached by 4x4.
This exquisite bay consists of four lakes that feed into the ocean and form part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Kosi is known for its traditional fishing kraals, or fish traps, used by the Tsonga people for centuries. It is also a breeding ground for leatherback turtles, and eco-friendly turtle tours take place from November to February. Accommodation is available with local communities, but this needs to be organised in advance by contacting the provincial parks authority, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife.
ABOVE: Reminiscent of prehistoric creatures, leatherback turtles may be seen at Kosi Bay.
ACTIVITIES
• Surfing and swimming at a number of excellent beaches in Durban, including Blue Lagoon, North Beach and South Beach.
• Airplane hops over the city and coastline from Virginia Airport, Durban North
• Charter and yacht cruises from uMhlanga Rocks main beach
• Go out to sea with the Natal Sharks Board
• Wreck diving off the coastline; popular sites include the Fame off Ballito, the Fontao off the coast of uMhlanga and the T-Barge between Durban and uMhlanga
• Kayak safaris out to sea from uMhlanga or Ballito
• Kitesurfing down the North Coast, especially at Ballito
• Snorkelling at Cape Vidal and at Aliwal Shoal, which is one of the top five sites in the world, off Durban’s South Coast
• Diving in Sodwana Bay, rated one of the world’s top 10 dive sites
• Picnicking, braaing and camping at the Harold Johnson Nature Reserve near Tugela Mouth
ABOVE: Durban, with its warm sea, great swell and practically year-round summer climate, is a surfer’s paradise.
• Three interlinked trails (10 minutes–1 hour) at the Burman Bush Nature Reserve, just 8 km from Durban city centre: the Pithi Trail (180 m); the Hadeda Trail (500 m); and the Umgeni Trail (1 km)
• Six trails (45 minutes–6 hours) in Krantzkloof Nature Reserve in Kloof
• Walk (2 hours) in Silverglen Nature Reserve in Durban
• Four interlinked trails (15 minutes–1 hour) along the Palmiet River Valley in Palmiet Nature Reserve in the greater Durban area
• Red Trail (2 hours) at the Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve in the greater Durban area
• Oriental Walkabout (2–3 hours) that takes in the Indian culture of the city, starting and ending at the Durban Tourist Junction, and visiting Jummah Mosque, the historical Grey Street business precinct and the famous Victoria Street Market
• Inanda Heritage Route (1/2 day) that begins in the Phoenix section of Inanda Township and ends at the Muti Market, taking in the site where Gandhi’s first ashram (Hindu religious retreat) stood; Ohlange High School in Inanda, founded by the first president of the ANC, John Dube; and Inanda Seminary
• Shembe Pilgrimage (3 days) by members of the Shembe religious sect (and anyone else), which covers 80 km each New Year’s Day from the church’s headquarters at Ebhohleni, Durban, to the Holy Mountain, Nhlangagazi, near Ndwedwe
