ABOVE: The rugged peaks and clear streams of the Drakensberg are best explored by hiking one of the many trails that lead up into the mountains. Depicted here is the formation known as the Amphitheatre.
This area is bordered by the Free State to the north, Zululand to the east, Lesotho to the west and the Eastern Cape to the south. It is one of the most beautiful parts of South Africa, featuring the Midlands and the dramatic uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a World Heritage Site.
This is a summer rainfall region, and is quite temperate. Here, away from the ocean, winters are much colder, and there are regular snowfalls in both the Midlands and the high mountains.
The Midlands and Drakensberg fall within the Grasslands biome. Although the term ‘grasslands’ implies only grass species, only one in six species in the biome is, in fact, a grass. The remainder consist of bulbous plants such as arum lily, orchid, red-hot poker, aloe, watsonia, gladiolius and ground orchid.
The region is renowned for especially eland, which can be seen in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park as well as the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve, and the endangered bearded vulture (lammergeier) in the Drakensberg.
This region was largely spared the racial turmoil that gripped the rest of the country, but it had its moments during the first and second Anglo–Boer wars (1880–1881 and 1899–1902).
On 15 July 1842, Pietermaritzburg in the Umzunduze Valley surrendered to the British. It had been the capital of the short-lived Boer republic of Natalia, and would continue as the seat of government in the province.
In 1850 the British government obtained a single-storey Cape Dutch–style house in Pietermaritzburg as residence for the first English governor of Natal, Benjamin Pine. It was from here that the campaigns of the Anglo–Zulu War and first Anglo–Boer War were strategised. After subjugating the Zulu during the Anglo–Zulu War, the British turned their attention on the Boer republic of Transvaal. In 1877 they annexed it, which led to the start of the first Anglo–Boer War (known by the Boers as the War of Independence) on 16 December 1880. After a number of battles the combatants met at Majuba Hill, just inside the Natal border with the Transvaal, on 27 February 1881.
The British commander, Major General Sir George Colley, had occupied the summit of the hill on the previous day, presumably to outflank the Boer positions at Laing’s Nek. Colley, who until then was highly regarded, took no artillery with him and did not ask his troops to dig in.
While he assumed the Boers would disperse when they became aware of his position, which was made abundantly clear by Highlanders shouting and waving their fists, they instead organised a storming party led by Nicolaas Smit. Just after midnight the Boers reached the summit and engaged the enemy with tremendous fire while avoiding hand-to-hand combat. This battle led to the British signing a truce on 6 March and a peace treaty two weeks later. But it would soon be the scene of military action with the outbreak of the second Anglo–Boer War in 1899.
Transvaal President Paul Kruger snatched the initiative in October 1899 when British troops were still being rushed to southern Africa and those in the field were outnumbered two to one. To make the most of this advantage the Boers immediately took the offensive on four fronts: north into Rhodesia; west into the northern Cape; south into the northeastern Cape; and east into Natal, where they fought the first battle of the second Anglo–Boer War at Talana Hill near Dundee on 20 October.
The following day the Boers suffered their first defeat at Elandslaagte. In the first five months of the war, however, that setback was a rarity. The Boers swept south and ‘Mournful Monday’ (30 October) was a bad day for the British, as losses in the vicinity of Ladysmith soared to 1 272 men. Two days later, the Boers pushed Sir George White and his 13 500 men into Ladysmith and laid siege to the town. Ladysmith is best remembered for the slaughter of British troops at Spioenkop on the morning of 24 January 1900.
The old part of the city is the most beautiful. Along streets lined with oak and jacaranda are Gothic Revival and Edwardian and Victorian homes set in lush gardens. It is a favourite of watercolour artists.
ABOVE: The graves of those who fell in the famous Battle of Talana can be found in Dundee.
ABOVE: Gracious Edwardian and Victorian architecture forms a historical backdrop in the busy student town of Pietermaritzburg.
It is known by residents as Sleepy Hollow, a most appropriate moniker but for the occasional rousing. Initially established in 1839 by the trekboers, Pietermaritzburg slipped into a deep slumber after its conquest by the British – a condition only briefly unsettled by the Anglo–Boer wars. Not that the city was threatened, only that there was an influx of noisy troops to disturb the peace.
Highlights of Pietermaritzburg are a historical walking tour that takes in the city’s well-preserved architecture; the Natal Museum, which is the largest national museum in the province; the Railway Museum at Mason’s Mill, which features restored locomotives dating back to 1888; the Tatham Art Gallery, considered one of the best galleries in the country; the National Botanical Gardens, which attract a huge variety of bird life; the Butterfly House at Queen Elizabeth Park; and the exquisite Victorian Pavilion in Alexandra Park.
ABOVE: The Howick Falls, located in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, is just one of the many spectacular waterfalls found in the area.
ABOVE: Quaint guest houses and relaxed B & Bs along the Midlands Meander add to this route’s abundant charms.
ABOVE: Although best known for its annual swimming-endurance race, the Midmar Mile, Midmar Dam invites water sports throughout the year.
The city is on the edge of the Midlands and is close to all the major natural attractions in the region.
The Midlands Meander is one of the most popular tourism routes in the country, stretching from Hilton to Mooi River along the R103, taking in Howick, Lidgetton, Balgowan and Nottingham Road along the way. The route offers arts and crafts, outdoor activities, accommodation and cuisine in a scenic country setting.
There are a number of arts and crafts outlets here and a shop and gallery specialising in stained-glass items. In the way of food, there are several quaint bistros and eateries in the area.
One of the highlights of Howick is a visit to the Howick Falls, with its dramatic 95-m drop. Nearby, Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve is a great spot for picnics and walks, where there are zebra, antelope, giraffe and more than 270 bird species. Howick is close to Midmar Dam, site of the Midmar Mile endurance swim that takes place in February every year. If you are the adventurous type, then take a drive off to Karkloof Nature Reserve and take part in a canopy tour.
While meandering towards Balgowan you will pass through the Lidgetton Valley. The acclaimed Ardmore Ceramic Arts studio is situated here, and is worth a visit.
ABOVE: Breathtaking Sani Pass offers an enticing challenge for 4x4 enthusiasts and adventure travellers.
ABOVE: Nottingham Road Hotel is a firm favourite among the locals, who spend many a merry night in Notties Pub. Not surprisingly, the town has its own microbrewery – the Nottingham Road Brewing Company.
About 30 km from Howick, towards Nottingham Road, lies Michaelhouse, the Anglican Diocesan College of Natal. Founded in 1896, it is one of South Africa’s most well-known and prestigious boarding schools. Nearby is the Bosch Hoek Golf & Country Estate, for those who are looking for a bit of golfing rest and recreation.
Despite its myriad art galleries, shops and studios, Nottingham Road is famous for one thing: beer! Nottingham Road Brewing Company, one of the country’s most successful micro-breweries, can be found at Rawdons Hotel. A few kilometres outside of town is The Stables Wine Estate, which attracts visitors from far and wide during its Vine Budding, Blues, Grape Crushing and Winter Solstice festivals.
The pretty town of Mooi River is a textile and farming hub, and there are many excellent racehorse studs in the vicinity. In the town itself, history buffs should visit the Rhode House Museum, which has exhibits on local farming history. Passing through Mooi River towards Giant’s Castle you will find Hartford House, which serves fantastic cuisine in a picturesque setting.
This area is a mix between the gently undulating landscape of the Midlands and the mountains of the Drakensberg. Major towns are Kokstad, Harding, Ixopo, Underberg, Sani Pass and Himeville. Do not miss the annual Splashy Fen Music Festival at Underberg, usually held around Easter.
The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park predominantly occupies the Central Drakensberg. The 243 0000-ha area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 because of its incredibly scenic natural beauty and the rock art paintings that commemorate the San heritage of the area.
The dominant feature of this region is the Drakensberg, which stretches from the Eastern Cape to Mpumalanga. The range was created millions of years ago when an ancient seabed reared up to form a great escarpment that was then sculpted by erosion. It is a scenic wonder, most awesome in the Champagne Valley of the Central Drakensberg.
This is a region that has moved artists through the ages. The San decorated its caves and rock faces with fine rock art, and it galvanised the Tungay family to found the internationally renowned Drakensberg Boys’ Choir School in 1967. It is not difficult to see why. At the heart of its attraction is an Eden of gentle, rolling hills and vertical mountain faces, of domes and cowls and spear-like pinnacles, of endless valleys and plunging waterfalls, of giant yellow-woods and dazzling winter snows.
There are numerous hotels and resorts here, including Champagne Castle Hotel, The Nest Drakensberg Resort Hotel, Drakensberg Sun Lifestyle Resort, Champagne Sports Resort, Alpine Heath, Cathedral Peak Hotel and Monk’s Cowl, a pretty country lodge known for its golf course and spectacular views of the Champagne Valley.
The Royal Natal National Park is situated in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, and although it is known as a ‘national park’ it is actually a provincial park, managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. The main feature of the park is the spectacular Amphitheatre situated between the Sentinel and the Eastern Buttress of the Drakensberg, with a number of domes, including the largest, Mont-Aux-Sources, rising from a relatively flat plateau.
One of the most spectacular sites found in the Royal Natal National Park are the Thukela Falls (previously known as the Tugela Falls); the spectacular 947-m cascade can be reached by a number of hiking trails. Popular hotels include the Montusi Mountain Lodge and Orion Mont-Aux-Sources Resort. The Northern Drakensberg is the most popular area of the ’Berg.
ABOVE: The beautiful statue of Mahatma Gandhi is among several attractions best seen on foot on a walking tour of Pietermaritzburg.
ACTIVITIES
• Fly-fishing in the Midlands and Drakensberg
• Mountain and rock climbing in the Drakensberg
• Ice-climbing behind Giant’s Castle Game Reserve in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park during winter
• Karkloof Canopy Tours in Howick
• Rafting adventures in Winterton
• Paragliding in Bulwer
• Quad biking and off-road adventures in Himeville
ABOVE: The splendid Valley of a Thousand Hills provides a breathtakingly green landscape as far as the eye can see.
ROUTES AND TRAILS
• The drive over Sani Pass (45 km) into Lesotho, departing from Underberg, is the Holy Grail of 4x4 enthusiasts, and will take approximately 2.5 hours, including going through passport control and having a drink at the highest pub in Africa at Sani Top Chalet
• World’s View Trail (2 hours) starts at Voortrekker Road and steadily follows the wagon trail used by the Voortrekkers
• Midlands Meander (80 km) between Pietermaritzburg and Mooi River
• Valley of A Thousand Hills Route (90 km) follows the route of the Comrades Marathon between Durban and Pietermaritzburg
• Pietermaritzburg Dorp Spruit Trail (2 hours) starts at Voortrekker Bridge in Roberts Road and branches off to De Villiers Drive before meandering back to Roberts Road
• Giant’s Cup Hiking Trail (5 days) in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park
• Injisuthi Wilderness Trails (2–5 days) in the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park
• A walking tour of Pietermaritzburg (approximately 5 hours), starting off at Publicity House (opposite the Tatham Art Gallery) and ending at the City Hall
