CHAPTER 16

ZULULAND

ABOVE: This poignant memorial commemorates the Battle of Isandlwana, which took place here in 1879.

Bounded by Swaziland and Mpumalanga in the north and the Midlands in the west, the savannah-clad hills and valleys of northeast KwaZulu-Natal are known as the land of the Zulu – the ‘People of the Heavens’. Many visitors come here to experience Zulu culture, but there are plenty of other highlights in this region, including some of the best-known battlefield routes in the country.

CLIMATE

Summer brings not only rain but also intense heat to Zululand. By contrast, spring and autumn are more moderate while the winters can get extremely cold.

HISTORY AND HERITAGE

Zululand is where some of South Africa’s most famous and bloody battles were fought, and there are numerous battle sites, Zulu cultural villages, British forts and Boer monuments that bear testimony to this turbulent time in the country’s history.

In 1838 the Battle of Blood River/Ncome took place to avenge the murder of Voortrekker leader, Piet Retief. It was here that the Boers defeated the Zulus and their chief, Dingane, and declared the Republic of Natalia, which included much of present-day KwaZulu-Natal. Some four decades later, this part of the world saw more bloodshed during the Anglo–Zulu War in which the Zulu impis routed the British forces at Isandlwana. In the same year, the British army retaliated and defeated the Zulus at Ulundi.

The second Anglo–Boer War, also known as the South African War, took place from 1899 to 1902. Two of the war’s decisive events took place in Zululand: the 118-day siege of Ladysmith, which ended on 28 February 1900, and the Battle of Spioenkop that took place on 23 and 24 January that same year.

ABOVE: The graves at Rorke’s Drift are a popular stop along the Battlefields Route.

ZULU CULTURE

A once disparate group of clans and chieftainships, the Zulu people were melded into a mighty kingdom in the early 19th century by Shaka, whose spirit lives on to this day.

The Zulu hold their culture in high esteem, observing many old traditions, rituals and ceremonies. They believe that the ancestral spirits (amadlozi or abaphansi) are essential in their day-to-day lives, while the Supreme Creator, known as uMveliqangi (‘the one who came first’), or uNkulunkulu (‘the very big one’), is not that intricately involved.

The typical nuclear family (umndeni), which still exists in rural Zululand, includes all those people who are related to each other by blood, marriage or adoption. They dwell in a homestead often made up of circular, fenced huts with thatched roofs. A man is always the head of the household and his wife, or wives, and their children will always defer to his authority.

KwaZulu-Natal has a choice of cultural villages where traditional Zulu culture can be experienced. The best known of these is Shakaland, which is on the R66 from Eshowe to Melmoth.

KING SHAKA

Shaka, a great military strategist, was born in 1785. His father was a minor chief and his mother unranked, yet he went on to head up the Zulu nation by conquering the Nguni clans of present-day KwaZulu-Natal. Among his most famous victories were those against the Ndwandwe at Gqoki Hill, and Mhlatuze River. In 1828 Shaka was assassinated by a group that was led by his half-brother Dingane.

THE BATTLE OF ISANDLWANA AND THE DEFENCE OF RORKE’S DRIFT

After the British annexed Natal they let Zululand be for some time, but a desire for a federation of states in southern Africa soon changed their focus. One of the obstacles to this was the existence of the Boer republics and the Zulu kingdom. The Transvaal was annexed in 1877, after which British attention turned to the Zulu under Cetshwayo. The spark for war was provided by border incidents, especially along a disputed strip of land on the Zululand border with Natal, running from Rorke’s Drift to the Pongola River. An ultimatum was delivered to Cetshwayo on 11 December 1878.

When Cetshwayo did not respond, Lord Chelmsford invaded Zululand in January the following year. A column advancing from Rorke’s Drift encamped at Isandlwana on 20 January under Lieutenant Colonel Henry Pulleine, while Chelmsford moved on to join a reconnaisance party.

Underestimating the Zulu might, and not knowing that 20 000 warriors were advancing, Chelmsford did not order Pulleine to entrench. The Zulu army under Dabulamanzi kaMpande had outmanoeuvred Chelmsford with the intention of attacking the rear of the British forces on 23 January. When their position in the Ngwebeni Valley was detected by a scouting party led by Lieutenant Raw the following day, they decided to go on the offensive. With the Zulu in pursuit, Raw sent a messenger to warn Pulleine that an attack was imminent.

When the Zulu reached Isandlwana, kaMpande arranged his warriors into the traditional attack formation to encircle the British. This involved a strong central force (the chest) and flanking ‘horns’ that would close around the enemy. Able to see only those impi comprising the chest and right horn, Pulleine miscalculated the mortal threat and decided to meet the Zulu head on, instructing six companies to fan out. Until noon the British appeared to be holding their own against the centre, but then matters changed dramatically.

As soon as Pulleine realised that his soldiers were about to be encircled, he ordered a retreat back to the camp, where the battle continued for three hours before the British were finally overrun. It was the Zulu nation’s most glorious moment as assegais and ox-hide shields triumphed over the most modern weaponry of the day. And, while some historians have blamed the British defeat on a shortage of ammunition, it is more likely that Pulleine blundered by spreading his men along too wide a perimeter.

From Isandlwana, a reserve group of 4 000 Zulu soldiers advanced on the nearby trading post and mission at Rorke’s Drift, situated at a natural ford over the Buffalo River. Chelmsford had left a member of his staff, Major Spalding, in charge of this small garrison of 139 soldiers when he entered Zululand.

Unaware of the happenings at Isandlwana, Spalding rode out to ascertain the position of one of his companies, placing Lieutenant Chard in temporary command. Chard, a military engineer, was at the drift repairing pontoons when two survivors of Isandlwana, Lieutenants Vaine and Adendorff, rode in to warn of impending attack. A defensive perimeter was hastily constructed and the buildings fortified.

Late that afternoon, news arrived that the Zulu were crossing the river at Fugitive’s Drift. This resulted in a number of desertions, effectively halving the British garrison. Soon under furious attack, the tiny British force was able to hold out until four o’clock the next morning, when the Zulu retreated at last.

The defence of Rorke’s Drift, considered one of the most noteworthy in history, resulted in the award of 11 Victoria Crosses, as well as several medals for Distinguished Conduct.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Rolling grasslands, thornveld valleys and riverine forests are a feature of the Zululand landscape. This part of the world is known for its exceptional bird life; zebra, giraffe and wildebeest can also be found in various ecoreserves such as the Isibindi Game Reserve near Rorke’s Drift. Trout fishing is a popular pastime.

NOTEWORTHY PLACES

Several of the towns in the Zululand region contain notable battlefield sites, the most famous ones being Isandlwana, Rorke’s Drift and Fugitive’s Drift.

KwaGingindlovu

The small town of KwaGingindlovu was once the place of the military kraal of Cetshwayo, and the site of one of the battles of the Anglo– Zulu War. It was named KwaGingindlovu (‘the swallower of the elephant’) when Cetshwayo defeated his brothers for chieftainship.

Eshowe

Shaka’s capital KwaBulawayo was in the vicinity of Eshowe, and Cetshwayo also had a kraal in the area. The fascinating Vukani Collection Museum exhibits an excellent display of Zulu art and culture. The Battle of Nyezane, the opening battle of the Anglo–Zulu War, took place near the town from 22 January to 2 April 1879.

Ulundi

Ulundi was the place where, in 1879, the final phase of the Anglo–Zulu War took place. It was during the Battle of Ulundi that the British army finally defeated the Zulus. In the area was Ondini (‘high place’), the site of Cetshwayo’s royal residence, which was destroyed during the battle. The remains of Ondini have since been restored, and now form part of the Ondini Historical Complex, which includes the KwaZulu Cultural Museum. You can also visit the graves of King Mpande (Cetshwayo’s father), King Dinuzulu (Cetshwayo’s son) and Voortrekker leader Piet Retief. For nature lovers, the Ophathe Game Reserve, known for its bird life, is well worth a visit.

Dundee

Named by a coal miner from Dundee in Scotland, this town has the highest concentration of battlefield sites in South Africa. It was here that the Battle of Blood River/Ncome took place on 16 December 1838. Today one can visit the Blood River Monument where 64 bronze ox-wagons in laager formation commemorate the turbulent events of 1838, and the Ncome Museum, which offers a reinterpretation of the famous clash. In 1998 a memorial was inaugurated for the over 3 000 Zulu soldiers who died in the battle. Other historic battle sites in the area include Talana, Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift.

Vryheid

Vryheid has a multicultural heritage and its battlefield attractions include the Anglo–Zulu War sites of Hlobane and Khambule. The battle of Hlobane, during which Colonel Henry Evelyn Wood and his men suffered a bitter defeat by the Zulus, took place on 28 March 1879.

There are also Anglo–Boer War sites at Lancaster Hill, Scheepersnek and Holkrans, where an entire Boer commando was defeated just a few days before the peace treaty of 1902 was signed.

In the town itself, a number of historical attractions are worth visiting, including the 1908 Carnegie Public Library, Lucas Meyer House and the Old Raadsaal.

Ladysmith

Ladysmith was besieged by the British from 2 November 1899 to 28 February 1900 during the most crucial stage of the second Anglo– Boer War.

One of the best-loved anecdotes of this town is that on 25 December 1899 the Boers fired a shell containing a Christmas pudding and a note into town, instead of explosives. There are a number of historical buildings and attractions worth visiting, including the All Saints Anglican church, the Castor & Pollux cannons outside the Town Hall, the Court House (1889) and the Lord Vishnu Temple with its statue of Mahatma Gandhi.

Numerous battlefield sites in the vicinity include those at Spioenkop, Vaalkrans, Colenso, Tugela Heights, Elandslaagte and Surprise Hill.

ABOVE: Following his assassination, King Shaka’s corpse was unceremoniously dumped. A memorial in Stanger marks the possible burial site of this great Zulu leader.

DID YOU KNOW?

Isandlwana is the worst defeat the British have ever suffered against an indigenous army.

DID YOU KNOW?

The number of Victoria Crosses awarded for the defence of Rorke’s Drift is the most ever for a single action by a single regiment.

ACTIVITIES

• Birdwatching in Ophathe Game Reserve in Ulundi

• Champagne cruises on the Pongolapoort Dam near Mkuze

• Game drives in Thula Thula Game Reserve near Richards Bay

• Battlefield tours at Fugitive’s Drift, southwest of Dundee

• Fishing at various sites along the Buffalo River

ABOVE: On the site of the infamous Battle of Blood River/Ncome, a laager of 64 bronze ox wagons has been erected, vividly depicting the Boer defence system against the Zulu impis.

ROUTES AND TRAILS

• Day walks for guests at the Battlefields Country Lodge and Penny Farthing Country House in Dundee

• Izemfene Hiking Trail (2 days) in the Biggarsberg near Glencoe

• Several trails (3 hours–full day) in the Ntendeka Wilderness Area near Vryheid

• Guided tours of Isandlwana (5 hours) and Rorke’s Drift (3 hours), from Fugitive’s Drift Lodge near Dundee

• Hiking at the Entumeni Nature Reserve outside Eshowe

• Conducted walks at Zulu Nyala Game Ranch near Hluhluwe