ABOVE: Rolling farmlands, big skies, abundant cosmos and rocky outcrops comprise a typically eastern Free State scene.
The Free State is located on the interior plateau in the heart of the country. This province is bounded by the Drakensberg and the Kingdom of Lesotho to the east, the Vaal River to the far north and the Orange River to the south. To the west are the Northern Cape and the North West Province.
It is known as ‘the bread basket’ of the country, with more than 70% of the country’s grain produced here, but despite its thriving agricultural industry it is a laid-back kind of place. Apart from Bloemfontein, there is not much urban life – and it seems the locals like it that way.
Known for cattle, sheep, dairy and wheat farming, the plains of the Free State offer tranquil driving spaces and home-grown hospitality. This is the heart of boerekos (farm food) country, and big skies and rugby really do rule the day here. On the other end of the cultural spectrum, a township like Botshabelo is definitely worth the detour, as is an informative visit to a cultural village.
The climate is typical of the interior plateau – winters are cold, rain generally falls in summer and there is lots of sunshine. Bloemfontein’s maximum summer temperature is a warm 26 °C and its maximum winter average is 16 °C.
Towns on the Eastern Highlands (Clarens, Harrismith and Bethlehem) and the Golden
Gate Highlands National Park lie at a much higher altitude than the rest of the country, which means that snow falls on mountain peaks during winter and the roads can be icy.
There is a joke that goes if you are lying flat on the ground in the Free State you can see 14 days into the future. The flat interior landscape does, however, boast a wealth of grasslands and magnificent trees such as the sweet thorn. Many tree species are restricted to river banks and valleys, but there are some exceptions. The rare Psilotum nudum is an ancient fossil fern, dating back millions of years, that is found in the seepages of sandstone caves in places like the Korannaberg. Typical Karoo-type vegetation is also found in the southwestern Free State, where visitors will see wild pomegranate, red cancer bush and a number of succulents.
When it comes to fauna, the Free State is certainly not Big Five country, but it does have prolific wildlife in sanctuaries such as the Golden Gate Highlands National Park and other nature reserves throughout the province.
The wars that swept across southeast Africa and the interior from the 1750s until the late 1830s, known as the Mfecane (‘the crushing’), or Difaqane, permanently altered the political structure of African society in much of the region. The series of upheavals triggered by expansionism and battles for power and territory fractured communities and led to the demise of once powerful chiefdoms and the formation of new ones. The southern Highveld, part of present-day Free State, was not immune to the conflict. Here, the Sotho leader Moshoeshoe managed to resist attacks by Difaqane marauders while expanding his influence and consolidating the Sotho nation under his paramountcy. Remnants of various defeated clans who moved into the area joined Moshoeshoe, who gave them refuge in return for protection of his kingdom. The Sotho had lived and farmed in the lowlands between the Caledon River and the Maluti Mountains, before eventually occupying the mountain fastness of Thaba Bosiu in present-day Lesotho.
Also in search of agricultural land were the trekboers (migrant stock farmers) who arrived in the central interior in 1824 from the Cape Colony. In 1836, they were followed by the first parties of the Great Trek, escaping British rule in the Cape. The Boers soon clashed with the Ndebele, led by Mzilikazi, who was routed by a combined Afrikaner, Griqua and Barolong force at Mosega. The Ndebele were finally driven out by the Voortrekkers in 1837, and settled in the Matopo Hills in present-day Zimbabwe.
Other newcomers to the region were the British, who sought to impose Her Majesty’s rule on the territories across the Orange River. When in 1848 the Governor of the Cape, Sir Harry Smith, declared British sovereignty over the region between the Orange and Vaal rivers, conflict ensued. Later that year, the Boers, led by Andries Pretorius, were defeated at Boomplaats near present-day Trompsburg, and Pretorius fled across the Vaal river.
ABOVE: The iconic sandstone Sentinel, also known as The Brandwag, watches over the Golden Gate Highlands National Park and is a dramatic sight at sunset, when it becomes a canvas of pink, orange and golden hues.
ABOVE: The Gariep Dam is South Africa’s largest storage reservoir.
ABOVE: Built in 1870 and used to store ammunition, the Kruithuis (‘gunpowder house’) is located just outside Philippolis.
In 1854, at the Bloemfontein Convention, Britain granted the Boers independence in the Orange River Sovereignty, paving the way for the establishment of the Orange Free State republic. The convention precipitated a series of wars, with disagreements over the boundaries of the new republic and competing land claims being the main sources of strife. Increasingly desperate, Moshoeshoe appealed to the British for protection, and in 1868 the British annexed what was left of the land belonging to the Sotho as the Basutoland protectorate.
By the time the second Anglo–Boer War (also known as the South African War) broke out in 1899, Basutoland was under direct rule from Britain, protecting the mountain kingdom from being drawn into the escalating conflict between the British and the Boers.
In an effort to contain the Anglo–Boer War, British commander-in-chief, Lord Kitchener, introduced the notorious scorched-earth policy in March 1901. The intention was to sweep the country bare of anything that could sustain the Boers, including burning their farmsteads and destroying their crops. The English forces deported women, children and black farm assistants to concentration camps, where thousands of them succumbed to illness in poor living conditions. Many of these camps were in the Free State. At the end of the Anglo–Boer War, Bloemfontein was made the capital of the Orange River Colony. When the Union of South Africa was proclaimed in 1910, Bloemfontein became the judicial capital of the country.
The Gariep Dam, formerly known as Hendrik Verwoerd Dam, is the largest reservoir in the country. Now a popular place for water sports and outdoor activities, the town of Gariep Dam is one of the newest in South Africa. Attractions include the Gariep Dam Nature Reserve and a fish hatchery. A short distance from the town is the Norvalspont Concentration Camp, which was laid out in February 1901 and closed down in October 1902.
Once a missionary outpost, Philippolis is the oldest settlement in the Free State. In 1822 a small Griqua community, under Adam Kok III, joined other groups already living here and the town began to thrive. However, in 1862 the government of the Republic of the Orange Free State bought all the land owned by the Griqua for £4000. The Griqua people left and eventually settled near present-day Kokstad. Attractions include the Adam Kok House, Gariep Museum, historic cannons, and the Van Der Post Memorial Garden. Visitors can also spend the night in the Philippolis Old Gaol.
ABOVE: The city of Bloemfontein is home to the Supreme Court of Appeal, and is also South Africa’s judicial capital.
ABOVE: Sunflower fields are found across the Thaba Nchu region.
This small town was founded in 1929 as a French mission station, and is now best known as the birthplace of local actor Patrick Mynhardt (1932–2007), famous for his one-man show Boy from Bethulie and for portraying the Herman Charles Bosman character Oom Schalk Lourens on stage. The DH Steyn sandstone bridge is impressive and there are a number of historical landmarks including the Dutch Reformed church (1887), South African War Concentration Camp (1899–1902), Louw Wepener Monument, Ox-Wagon Monument and Pellissier House Museum. There is also the Tussen-die-Riviere Nature Reserve for game viewing.
Smithfield is something of an artists’ haven. It is an eclectic place and even has a UFO sighting centre. Activities and attractions include San rock art, the Basotho War Memorial located in front of the City Hall, the Caledon River Museum, General De Wet House and Market Square.
Jagersfontein was once the property of Jacobus Jagers, a Griqua farmer. In the 1870s the farm was declared open for public diggings after a 50-carat diamond was found here. In 1873, Jagersfontein yielded the 972-carat Excelsior diamond and in 1895 the 637-carat Reitz diamond was also found here. Although there is no mining today, Jagersfontein still has the feel of a pioneer town. Visit the Open Mine Museum and the Old Mine. There is also the three-day Diggers Groot Gat Hiking Trail.
Bloemfontein, the epicentre of the Motheo region, is the Free State’s capital city and South Africa’s judicial capital. There are a number of examples of historical architecture, such as the imposing City Hall, the 1849 First Raadsaal (parliament), the 1892 Fourth Raadsaal, the fascinating National Museum and the celebrated Oliewenhuis Art Museum.
The history of the Anglo-Boer conflict is explored at the famous Anglo–Boer War Museum in Bloemfontein. A series of art collections, dioramas and exhibits highlights the causes of the war and its development, and provides a glimpse into life in the concentration and prisoner-of-war camps. Adjacent to the museum is the Women’s Memorial. Erected in 1913, it is dedicated ‘to the glorious memory of the mothers, women and children, who, during the recent war, passed away, or had otherwise suffered bitterly, either in the concentration camps or outside’.
For great views of the town (and a good spot for sundowners) go to Naval Hill, the site of an old observatory built in 1927 and the Franklin Game Reserve established in 1928. For restaurants, shops and entertainment under one roof, the Loch Logan Waterfront is a good choice.
To the northeast of the city is the scenic Soetdoring Nature Reserve, a 7 500-ha reserve that is home to an array of plants and birds. African wild dog and lion can be found at the predator park.
ABOVE: All sorts of fascinating shops can be found in Ficksburg, including the Blik Plek where everything has been made out of recycled goods.
ABOVE: Ladybrand is renowned for its sandstone architecture and elegant historic buildings that date back to the early 1900s.
Head along the N8 for some 45 km to reach Botshabelo, the second largest township in South Africa. Visit the Botshabelo library to see Sotho arts and crafts exhibitions, as well as Onverwacht farm, which was the very first settlement in Botshabelo. For rest and relaxation there is the Rustfontein Nature Reserve where visitors can enjoy boating, angling and game drives.
To the east of Bloemfontein is Thaba Nchu, meaning ‘black mountain’. At the heart of this settlement is the 2 138-m-high Thaba Nchu Mountain, once the stronghold of the Barolong people. There are a few notable attractions here including the Wesleyan mission station, which houses Chief Moroka’s grave, Moroka House, the Mabana Cultural Centre and a number of arts and crafts outlets. There are also plaques marking the trails made by Voortrekkers during the Great Trek. For nature lovers, there is the Maria Moroka Nature Reserve. Known for its bird- and wildlife species, it also incorporates the Groothoek Dam.
Situated 18km from Maseru and founded in 1867 after the Basotho wars, Ladybrand has a fascinating history, which is recounted in various exhibits at the local Heritage Museum. The Ladybrand area is famous for its many rock-art sites, including the paintings that can be seen on the walls of the Modderpoort and Tandjiesberg caves.
Modderpoort, just outside Ladybrand, is famous for the Cave Church, also known as the Rose Chapel, a shelter once occupied by the San and now used as a pilgrimage site. The grave of the Sotho prophetess Mantsopa Makheta is also worth a visit.
Clocolan was once home to the Basotho, who were driven out of the area in the early 1800s. This quaint town, laid out in 1906, is an important farming centre; wheat, maize, sunflowers and asparagus are all farmed in the vicinity. Visitors can take a tour of the Deemsters Asparagus Factory.
Great examples of San rock art can be seen at the De Hoek and Nebo farms, while in town more contemporary creations are produced by numerous arts and crafts projects.
The annual Cherry Festival takes place every year during November in the small town of Ficksburg, where fun and festivities are the order of the day. Ficksburg has a number of interesting attractions; the Ficksburg Jail and the Fick Memorial, as well as numerous rock-art sites on surrounding farms, are all worth a visit. There is also the Meulspruit Dam and the Mpharane Nature Reserve, and a number of outdoor activities including hiking, game viewing, trout fishing and mountain biking are available.
Sitting in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains, Clarens is framed by sandstone peaks. Fittingly called ‘Jewel of the Free State’, this charming little town has become a haven for artists, whose work can be viewed at the numerous galleries that make up the Artists’ Amble. A gallery of a different kind, the cave at Schaapplaats Farm is adorned with San rock paintings. Surrender Hill, a historic second Anglo–Boer War site, is nearby (en route to Fouriesburg). The Fertility Cave near Surrender Hill is used by sangomas who believe that it has special healing powers. The traditional healers live in the cave and drink the ‘holy water’ that drips from cracks in the rocks. During February and October, people come here to seek their curative powers.
Founded in 1849 by Sir Harry Smith, the town of Harrismith is surrounded by hills and is something of an economic crossroads in the Free State. The Platberg (‘flat mountain’) sits at 2377 m and is the town’s visual landmark. For outdoor enthusiasts, the Sterkfontein Dam (the third-largest dam in the country) is an excellent spot for fishing and water sports and is surrounded by the Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve. Other attractions include Anglo–Boer War memorials, the Debora Retief Garden with its 250-million-year-old fossilised tree and the Harrismith Wildflower Gardens that contain 20% of the region’s plant species and an Anglo–Boer war blockhouse.
Situated at the foot of the Maluti Mountains, Bethlehem (‘house of bread’) falls into the Thabo Mofutsanyana District, and it is the commercial centre of the area. This is wheat country and the region produces 65% of the country’s crop, which is how the town got its name. The Ash River flows alongside the town and it is a favourite spot for canoeists and water-sport enthusiasts. For history buffs, there are numerous sites worth visiting including the Battle of Bethlehem Monument, the Nazareth Mission church (housing Bethlehem Museum), the Sol Plaatje Memorial and Baartman House, which among other things has exhibits of wagons and horse carriages. There is a delightful walk that goes past numerous sandstone buildings, many of which are heritage sites.
Located on the banks of the Wilge River, Frankfort offers Edwardian architecture and a decidedly homely atmosphere with something of a resort feel. The Wilge River is the place for dinghy adventures, and there are also 4x4 options.
The story goes that Parys was named by a German land surveyor who said that the Vaal River reminded him of the River Seine in Paris – but this is where the resemblance between this town and its famous namesake ends. You can, however, visit the mini Eiffel Tower outside the Parys Information and Tourism office on Water Street and inspect a second miniature replica of the tower as well as a mini version of the Arc de Triomphe on Karl Preller Avenue.
ABOVE: The little town of Parys is a great weekend getaway for visitors from Johannesburg and Pretoria in search of some R & R.
ABOVE: Clarens has a wonderful bohemian atmosphere, with its fun arts and crafts shops, galleries and eateries.
Parys may not be a cosmopolitan city, but it is a great getaway destination and is growing as an arty hideaway for stressed-out city dwellers. Water sports are popular here too, and there are numerous accommodation options including B & Bs and guest houses. There are also good restaurants.
Parys lies near the centre of the Vredefort Dome, an enormous impact crater that dates back some two billion years, making it the oldest meteoric impact site in the world. With a radius of 190 km, it is also one of the largest on earth. The Vredefort Dome was declared a World Heritage Site in 2005.
Like Parys, Vredefort is situated in the Vrede-fort Dome World Heritage Site. It is a small mining town that is known for its adventure activities as well as San rock art.
Just two hours from Gauteng, Kroonstad is a growing town and a wealthy agricultural area. It is at the heart of the region’s agricultural industry and is also known for its fishing opportunities on the Vals River.
A quaint town on the banks of the Sand River, Virginia got its name by courtesy of a few railway surveyors who etched the name of their birth town on a boulder here. There are a few fun activities in town including a trip to the Virginia Game Reserve, a tour of a nearby gold mine and a visit to a biltong factory. There are also several hiking trails, such as the Hamerkop and Paradise Flycatcher trails.
Welkom is the principal town in this area and the second largest in the Free State. It flourished after gold was discovered on the farm Welkom in 1946. Attractions include the Clock Tower, the Gold Museum, the Welkom Museum, the Flamingo Pan and the Ernest Oppenheimer Theatre.
A number of parks add greenery to the city. Situated just outside the town is the Oppenheimer Park Golf Course. The Phakisa Freeway with its Grand Prix racing circuit is also situated in Welkom.
VAAL DAM
The Vaal Dam is popular for sailing, angling, yachting and all manner of water sports. Deneysville, in particular, is known for its yachting enthusiasts.
ABOVE: The Vaal Dam, fed by the Vaal and the Wilge rivers, was constructed in 1938.
ACTIVITIES
• Horse riding safaris (2 hours–10 days) with Bokpoort Horse Safaris in Bokpoort, just outside of Clarens
• River rafting on the Ash River near Clarens
• Hot-air ballooning over Clarens
• Pony trekking in the Maluti Mountains
• Boating, angling and game drives at Rustfontein Nature Reserve near Botshabelo
• Game viewing and birdwatching at the Maria Moroka Nature Reserve near Thaba Nchu
• Fishing at the Meulspruit Dam in Ficksburg
ABOVE: The Vaal River near Parys offers grade one, two and three level rapids, so there is something for everyone.
ROUTES AND TRAILS
• The Sandstone Route stretches from Clarens to Ladybrand
• Waterkloof Hiking Trail (2 days) near Ficksburg
• The Rhebok Trail (2 days) in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park
• Dome trails (1–2 days), a canoe trail and a mountain bike route at Vredefort Dome
• Diggers Groot Gat Hiking Trail (3 days) at Jagersfontein
