Seven Months on the Oregon Trail, 1864
Mary Louisa Black
EDITOR’S PREFACE
From my research and interviews with people who remembered her, I think she was a very strong, determined woman. It was her idea to emigrate to Oregon as it was her people who had come earlier, and were already settled here.
These words appeared in a letter written from Jacksonville, Oregon, to the editor of this set of books. The writer was Marguerite W. Black, whose husband, John M. Black, is the grandson of Mary Louisa Black, the writer of the following diary.
Mrs. Black had heard about this publishing project as a listener to the all-night talk show on Radio Station KGO, San Francisco. Her letter was written on January 19, 1980. I telephoned her immediately after receiving an initial letter from her. She told me that she was a kind of family historian, how the family papers were destroyed in a fire in the home of one of the daughters in the 1930s, but that the diary and family Bible had been loaned to her and thus were saved.
I have asked Mrs. Black to write an introduction and epilogue for the diary for publication, telling of the family relationships as revealed in the diary.
INTRODUCTION BY MARGUERITE W. BLACK
The writer of the following diary of the day to day life in a wagon bound for Oregon in 1865 was Mary Louisa (McRoberts) Black. She wrote in a 3½ by 5¾ inch leather covered note book in which she had been keeping household notes and farm accounts for several years. She was the wife of John Maupin Black, and they lived on a farm near Mexico, Audrain County, Missouri, at the time they decided to emigrate to Oregon.
A brief background of her life reveals that she was the eldest of eight children born to John McRoberts and Sarah Stevenson (Caldwell) McRoberts. She was born on a farm in Champaign County, Ohio, July 15, 1835. Some time between 1850 and 1854 the McRoberts family moved to Audrain County, Missouri, where the last of the eight children was born. As the eldest in such a large family, Mary Louisa learned responsibility early in life. She had a good common school education, and was skilled in all the household tasks common to rural pioneer life. She helped with the farm animals and poultry. She also was familiar with the use of a few basic drugs and home remedies for the common illnesses of the time.
Her husband, John Maupin Black, was the sixth of the ten children of Isaac and Sarah Maupin Black, born December 5, 1830, in Callaway County, Missouri. His parents were born in Kentucky in the 1820s, bringing with them several slaves, as was common in the South. John Maupin grew up on his parents’ farm, and it may be assumed that the Black family and the McRoberts family were well acquainted, for they all lived in Audrain County in the 1850s.
It is recorded in the family Bible that Mary Louisa McRoberts and John Maupin Black were married on June 16, 1856, in the town of Mexico, Missouri, by the Rev. N.L. Fish. John Black was twenty-six years old, and his bride was twenty-two. They made their first home on his father’s farm. It appears that they lived there nine years, and during this time four children were born to them. The first, a daughter was stillborn in 1857. The second, another daughter, Sally, was born in 1859. A third daughter, named Myrtilla, was born in 1861, and a son, Isaac Clifton, was born January 21, 1865.
John’s father, Isaac, died in September 1864. His will mentions his wife, Sarah, and provides for her care. The rest of his estate was divided among his five living daughters and three sons. John received “the land upon which he resides, and a negro girl named Jane.” A change in their lives was about to take place.
Stories about the wonderful land of Oregon were widely circulated in the midwestern states during these years. Many families sold out and joined the migration to the west. Among these were relatives of Mary Louisa Black. Mary (Caldwell) Hanna, and her husband, Josiah, with their adult children, Joseph and Jemima, had made the journey to Oregon in 1862, settling in the Upper Rogue River area in Jackson County.
Josiah Hannah had been trained in the potter’s craft in a pottery owned by his wife’s people, Robert and Thomas Caldwell, near Fulton, Missouri. He carried his potter’s wheel with him to Jackson County, Oregon, and set about establishing a pottery. Suitable clay was found in the area, a kiln was built, and the Hannas were soon making jugs, crocks and other items for the pioneer housewives.
Mary Hannah wrote to her niece, Mary Louisa Black, about the possibilities of land being available adjoining theirs and offered help in getting settled if the Blacks would make the journey to Oregon. This was evidently an encouragement to John and Mary Louisa Black, so they began making preparations for the overland journey in the spring of 1865. The farm was sold and everything not needed on the journey was also sold or given away. The slaves were given their freedom.
Among the supplies that Mary Louisa carried with her was a collection of drugs from a list given to her by their family doctor, complete with instructions for their use. In the diary she frequently mentions taking these drugs for various illnesses experienced by members of the overland party. This list is here published at the end of the epilogue.
They started out with two wagons and two teams of work horses, several extra horses and some cattle. The second wagon was driven by a man called “Wat.” When he left them at the California cutoff, Mary Louisa drove it the rest of the way. The baby, Clifton, was a little over five months old. Myrtilla nicknamed “Tilla”) was three, and Sally was five years old.
The Blacks were to join a wagon train being organized by James T. Kirk and his brother, of Kirksville, Missouri. With James Kirk were his wife, Virginia, and their four year-old son, Crockett. The train was to leave Council Bluffs about the first of May. To reach this place the Blacks drove north on what is now “State Route 15,” through the towns of Paris and Shelbina. On the way they met with an unexpected and tragic delay. Somewhere between Paris and Shelbina near the end of April they were camped near a train of freight wagons, which had a chuck wagon and a camp cook. After a visit to this camp little Sally was stricken with food poisoning and died within hours. It was believed that she mistakenly ate some spoiled food. The only written word of this tragic accident is the following listing in the family Bible: “Sally Black, daughter of J.M. and M.L. Black, died May 1, 1865, age 5 yrs, 8 mo, and 24 days.” Despite this terrible blow, there was no turning back.
The diary begins with the listing of the town of Shelbina on May 5; St. Joseph on May 8; and Council Bluffs on May 11. The next day, May 12, the Kirk train, made up of 109 wagons, pulled out for Oregon. The train was organized into “wings,” each traveling some miles from the others. These wings took turns leading the way. Mary Louisa mentions this arrangement several times in her diary.
When the Kirk train arrived in the Willamette Valley in early October, they scattered in all directions. The Kirk family settled near Junction City, north of Eugene. Others went east, around Heppner, and some settled on the coast. Little is known of some of the families who traveled so close to the Blacks and are mentioned in the diary so often. As far as we know, the Blacks were the only ones headed south to Jackson County.
The long months of constant travel, the sickness and other troubles finally brought them to a halt at a place Mary Louisa calls “Mr. Knight’s.” Efforts to find out where this was have not been successful. Some time between September 29 and October 22 they stopped there to rest and recuperate.
A message was sent with some south bound travelers to Josiah Hannah as to their location. The Hannahs set out with team and wagon and a load of supplies to rescue them.
As Mary Louisa notes in the diary, they arrived at Hannahs on November 17, 1865, after “seven months on the Oregon Trail.”
On the inside cover of the diary note book is the following Bible verse:
PSALM CXXVI
5. They that sow in tears shall reap in joy.
6. He that goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come again with rejoicing, bring his sheaves with him.
THE DIARY
Shelbina [Missouri] May 5
St. Joseph May 6
Council Bluffs May 11
Plattsmouth May 12
Salt Creek May 20
Ft. Kearney May 30
June 2 Plum Creek
June 5th Cottonwood Rain
June Passed Through Julesburg
June 16 Left right wing Rain
June 18 no grass near the road Cold
June 19 Mountains in sight. Come to scatering timber. We will camp near plenty of wood tonight & rest tomorrow (Not much)
June 20 We camped last night near a spring but not much grass. We traveled about 8 mile before breakfast, came to grass & water and some wood by carrying some distance.
June 21 Crossed the Platt by fording at Fremonts Orchard.1
June 22 Traveled most of the time today through grass knee high.
June 23 Last night the cattle were stamping from 10 Oclock till day. We encamped togather. [In margin:] Saw some wigwams Kirk corelled to fight
June 24 We passed the Ferry this morning, they were crossing 2 wagons at a time & charging $7 for a four horse team & besides having to work the roaps themselves. Numbers were going above the ford, nooned on the Chackle pod.2 in a nice shady place near a ranch, the cattle mowed their grass for them John browned coffee [In margin:] Correlled separate. No stampeed. plenty of prarie dogs along the road
June 25 Sunday morn, we camped last night near the Cashlapoo. about ½ mile from the main company. I hear some talk of staying here till noon, & have preeching. The grass is short. They said yesterday, where we stoped to noon, that there was a ranch about every 4 mile. Most of them deserted. We have plenty of wood so far, on this stream Willow & cotton wood. The ranches occupy the best grass. I hear the order to gear up. One weeks time has made quite a difference in the looks of the mountains. we can desern timber on the black hills.
June 26 The Arapahoos, about 20 came into camp yesterday evening. Exhibiting all the characteristicks of natives, excepting they had long hair filled with ornaments. That is 3 of the number. I suposed 2 to be chiefs & one of their squaws—
Nooned 26 at the foot of the black hills. We passed kirks train stoped to rest & water. They have passed us about half and halted. They are passing on I think from their whooping they are crossing Cashly poo, which seams to merge from the Black hills to the left. Evning camp, we travailed up the canyann till camping time. Passed a saw mill and several nice cabins. I saw 3 hens quietly picking in front of one of the cabins, first I have seen since we left Salt creek. The Canyan is about ¼ of a mile wide. The grass is grazed almost too close. I climed one of the second rate hills, & had a fine view of the camp and the valey we are going up, but could see nothing of Kirks encampment.
27 Morning—I rested well last night. They are in a rush to get started. no alarms during the night. We nooned near the top of the hills. Some of the teams belonging to coopers Train stampeed, runing against the hindmost wagon of our train, smashing one wheel. They took back a wheel, and brought up the wagon & divided the load, we came up some very steep long rocky hills. Day fell on a large rock three times.
28 About 10 o’clock A.M. Every one is busy. John is having his horses shod, while a great many are helping to repair the broken wagon. I was quite sick this morning with diareah. I took a full dose of Laudanum this morning, and some quinine about 8 I feel some better. I have just finished cutting out a pair of drawrs for myself. The women have finished their washing, we camped near the junction of the two mountain roads. Dodson lies about 2 mile ahead when we camped we passed the place Kirk camped about 11 A.M. The left wing leads this afternoon. A horseman came forward just now to halt the train. Another stampee. some of the mule teamsters would not lock coming down a long hill. they ran by some ox teams, causing them to stampee. thats the first report. Wat mounted the black mule and has accompanied the man to the rear, a cold mountain wind is facing us The stampee commenced before they came to the hill. & they ran down running against the hind wheel of a hack occupying a place near the front of the right wing. It was accasioned by a matrass falling from the hind hounds of a wagon. it was an abandoned one laying by the road side, and the man picked it up.
29th We camped in the mountains again. I am still sick this morning, had a rundown just at daylight, some mint, resembling Peppermint & tasted like penoroyl.3 John gathered the first evening we encamped in the mountains, was a great relief to my stomach. The hills on this side are grey colored rocks, with pines scatered over them. The stage passed this mo Nooned on the road side. made a fire under a large pine to boil some tea. soon after we halted a soldier came riding up for the Dr of our train to go back to the next station, to take an arrow out of a mans back, he lives at the station & has been hunting for them for a number of years. it was done rite in the rear of our train, by some Arappahoos, who shook hands with him, pretending friendly, and when he turned to leave they shot him, the arrow passed through his lung, the Dr says, the same that visited our camp Sunday eve are the authors of the mishcief. As near as we can learn. The hunter new them.
30 June. Noon. we have travailed over a tolerable level road to-day. Stoped about 10 Oclock on accont of finding good grass & water. Silas Davis lost an ox last night, he has never been well since we crossed the Platt, Evening encampment. We have just crossed the Laramese river on a bridge, for 50 cts a wagon. not much grass in sight. The musquetoes are so bad on the stock. our horses took the river just below the camp. The young sorrel could not swim, but they all got acros and clambered up an almost perpendicular bank on the other side Mr Kellys mule tied head & foot attempted to follow, and was drowned.
1 July I was very sick all day at the stomach. Took a dose of Calomel & laudanum at noon. John is sick too—
2 July. I feel nearly clear of sick stomach this morning & my bowels are more quiet than they have been. I ate some brownd rice boiled for my supper & rested tolerable well during the night. I have used Paregoric & Tannin freely & some spirit to strengthen my stomach. Calomel was the first thing that settled my stomach. We have been travailing over the roughest rockeyest road I ever saw We nooned near a ranch, which had beem vammoosed this morning for we met them. They reported 100 Indians seen in this vicinity & that they had kill 2 Emigrants. There was a large bank of snow in a ravine to the left of the road, in sight of our noon camp nearly all of the train got some Leut Davis gave us some & Wat broght some to the wagon. We are encamped tonight, on a nice mountain stream at a respectful distance from Kirk, Cooper & Dodson. Indians is the chat.4 John has gone to the other camp—Tolerable grass.
3d of July. Noon. Kirks train corelled to gather once more. Just passed the remains of a burned ranch. Lately done, passed a calf lying near the road with its legs cut off, showing the Indians had taken a hasty feed from it the stage corralled with us. It is about 25 mile to Ft. Halock.5 It is near the place we are correlled that a large train has had a fight lately with indians. a shield with a fresh scalp tied to it was found near the place, and a chiefs head dress, and some of the trinkets they wear round their neck. Some of Coopers Train found them. The shield consist of raw hide taken from the face of a buffalo stretched over a hoop about the size of the top of a large woden bucket. There is considerable excitement in camp, we met 2 stages with heavy guard this morning moving every thing from the stations—
4th of July. No alarms during the night. John is still complaining. all hands endeavoring to get an early start. A halt. we passed the remains of a wagon that had been plundered and burned, part of one wheel was left & some of the cooking vessels and a good many small pine boxes, coming on a short distance was some clotes and feathers scatered over the ground, apparently the contense of a feather bed. We have been halting for about an hour, we are in the rear of all the trains, and those that have come back say there is a very bad hill to go down— We are over the bad place—
July 5. We camped last night within 3 mile of Hallack. Where we are now halted in the place. aranging as I thought to pay tole but I think I was mistaken, all ranches are deserted ecepting those at the tole bridges, where they always keep a guard to collect. Sure enough, we had to pay 50 cts for crossing little tole bridge. The travelers give the soldiers here a bad name. a great many of then have Indian wives. The stage that correlled with us night before last lost their team last night. The station near which we have camped say the Indians tried to run off their stock today. They think they are in a large body in the mountains near here. It is the opinion of som that they are trying to moove south. It is reported at the Ft that the Indians killed one of the Sheren boys & scalped him. he is buried at the Ft. Those that went in the P.O. say there was an ox team load of eastern mail at Hallack.
July 5th After candle light. Today been a busy day. Mrs McClure gave birth two twins, one lived till 12 Ocl A.M. The other but a few minutes. They were buried at the ranch. July 6th. We came to the ferry across North Platt over a very rough mountain road. had to go out 4 mile to get grass for the cattle.
July 8th washed this fore noon. Kirks train ferried this fore noon we will endeavor to cross this evening. The boys left us the 6th. Silas and family occupy their place. we have had a busy day. The right wing of our correll is nearly over. The soldiers at this place showed us about 30 steel pointed arrows that had bin shot at them yesterday, while ther horses to graze. one did serious damage to one of their horse. They hardly think he will recover About 4 Oclock P.M. All the wagons are acros but 4. They cross 2 wagons at a time & swim the cattle & horses. John has come. Reports all right. We will travail to grass to night.
July 9 P.M. we are encamped in a barrain mountain country ¾ of a mile to grass. no water fit to drink. a great deal of dissatisfaction through camp. some want to go on.
10th Nooned near a ranch plenty of wood and water but short grass
11th of July. From the length of the shadow I would take it to be near 12 Oclock. We are halted on a high mountain, a wagon haveing broken down, and they are removing the load. We must be very near the summit. There was snow near the road yesterday, but the water we camped last night on was flowing east. Emaline had a very high fever all day yesterday, she thinks she is some better today. I am so much pushed with work I have no time to write. Tilla has the flux too & requires a good deal of attention We came about 2 mile from where the wagon broke down, and correlled on the hill side among sage brush and rocks. There is some nice grass in a small valey, surrounded by high hills excepting the side next the camp, which gives us a fair view of it. There is a nice stream running between the correll and grass, & a spring comes out. I tried to fish some but having no success. I washed some of the babes clothes. The train is going separate in order to accommodate each other on account of the scarcity of grass. We remain with the main portion.
12th of July The rigt wing moved forward and when we halted to noon it kept on with the exception of 2 families Mr Farris & Mr May’s. Mr Farris’ wagon broke down in both the hind wheels. the train cannot move on untill they are repaired Mrs Davis is some better. We have been traveling down the western slope since yesterday morning.
13th of July We travailed till after night last night, & had to stop in a place where we had no grass for the stock, nooned today on a desert place, without water & I cannot tell the prospect for grass. the stage passes us nearly every day. Camped to night at the watering place. had to go of with the stock to get grass, traveling through a barrain country
14th Our road to day has been very rough & dusty, no grass near the [trail?] got some by going about a mile & half from the road. but we hauled water for cooking, no wood but sage brush. but that is as good as chips. We had some rain at noon, which made our travail this evening more pleasant.
15th To day our road has not been quite so hilly, and the day has been cloudy occasionally thundering. the earth & streams show there has been rain quite recently. The hill have assumed a striped appearance, some say we are now within 100 miles of Bridger. The train keeps grass hunters a head, which they have succeeded in finding so far within 2 miles from the road, we camp near the road, and detail hands to take the stock & keep them all night
16th Sunday. I rose this morning with the sun as John went out last night with the horses. I gethered sage brush & made out my yeast biscuit & put them on to cook, & Emaline finished the balance. It is now ready. Silas is on the sick list this morning—
17th We are geared up ready to start. Went about 4 mile to grass, and not very good at that. encamped near a branch tolerable good water. We are now traveling down Bitter creek. We moved on till about 1 Oclock. we came near the creek & camped near Rock station the houses have been built of rock for some time. I am not well atal I think it is the water that physics me.
18th They took the stock out to hunt grass but failed to get any for the cattle, which they brought back and correlled. John & Silas found grass for the horses, but it was very hard to get at. the most of the horsemen came in with the cattle, which made me feel quite uneasy. Tilla fretted with the ear ache nearly all night. which was very cold and windy and drizzling—
19th They took the stock to grass with the expectation of staying all night but came in directly after dark.
21d. I have been too sick to write any for 2 days. I have the flux now, but I do not feel as badly as when I was first taken, we have been travailing through a rough barrain country, can get cedar and pine wood to burn, no good water yet. but we will soon get to snow water. Where we have encamped there is a range of level toped hills off to the left along Bitter creek, to the right is a rocky range with some scatering dwarf cedars and pines, & some tolerable grass — last night we had to feed our horses grain we had been saving for an emergency. they correlled the cattle and we had to tie some of the horses to our wagon, and they tore the curtain badly, and kept me awake nearly all night.
22nd We are at Green river, we have got dinner, and drove down to the landing and watering the horses, we will soon commence crossing. the right wing leads today, and our wagon is 4th It is about 3 Oclock P.M. nearly all the train is acros have crossed since 12 Oclock. 1 wagon at a time. There is a train on this side, and it does appear that they must be making wages to day. $1.50 per wagon with 4 head of stock, a large freight train crossed this A.M. Reeds wagons of Mexico [Missouri] are with them & one of the Gilberts of Long-branch. We have corelled facing a strong cool wind. I am some better to day. but was very sick last night Green River will do to drink. John reports another train coming in sight on the other side, he is hitching up—.
23rd Sunday. They found good grazing for the horses but most too short for cattle, about 1½ miles from camp. I got out yesterday evening and helped about supper. still had flux at night and up once through the night. took a dose of salts this morning & some Jamaca ginger, which I think has been of benefit or getting to better water. I cooked some peaches and fried some pies for John to take out with him we have stayed all day at this place. they had to go down some steep places to get to grass, and some very narrow side mountain road, just room for the horses to go single file. we are drinking Green river water, which looks green—
24th The flux is not so frequent but when I have actions I am puped out.
24th Now we have passed the station which was said to be 14 mile from where we camped yesterday, we are near the creek. I wish we could get out of the mountains. I would judge from my feelings it is about 1 Oclock. I feel little able to cook. Geared up and made a short drive came to good grass about ¼ mile from the road. we are correlled once more in a grassy place, plenty of mountain currants I have never used them
25 Encamped for the night on Blacks fork of Green river, about 30 miles from Bridger. The road we have been traveling has lead us across Hams fork 3 times we have come in sight of the snow mountains again but our road today has been very good. we nooned on Hams fork just at the ford, on good grass. I am getting able to do a good part of the cooking. John & Silas killed 1 rabbit & 3 sage chickens the[y] ate well.
26th We found out this morning that we had left the Bridger road last evening so Uncle Billy Davis decided he would leave the train before he would miss going by Salt lake, which he did & Silas still remains with us much against his mothers wishes. We are traveling the direct Origon rout.
27th This morning John had to get breakfast. Emaline is still sick & I had a return of f[l]ux last evening. Took a dose of salts and intend to diet from this time out. I have been eating fresh meat. we had good grass & water by traveling till sun down. camped again on Blacks fork Nooned near Blacks fork. Silas has gone to the hills for Cedar to cook with which is a mile distant to the left. Some talk of sending to the Ft for letters. The Levi & John Faris geared the buggy and started for the Ft They all washed this afternoon. I was not able
28th We crossed Blacks fork soon after we struck the Bridger road. We are nooning on good grass, no water but what we hauled, but we watered the teams when we crossed the creek. I must help get dinner — After dinner, wrote a line to leave for Thompson who waited at the Ft for us, and had gone back to the next station. The Whites said expecting to meet us. but we came to the sight of the Ft. on a much leveler road.
29th We have just crossed a very bad ford on a small creek a tributary of Green river & while halting for the rest of the train to get over (as our wing leads today) two Indians came riding down the hill to the right. There must be more of them from the amount of dust we saw in that direction. This morning we just decided it to be another train. but I expect it was a gang of Indians. The 2 are painted red.
30th We are geared up ready to start, but have had a detainme[nt] on account of the cattle having strayed up the branch. we are encamped on a grassy place and plenty of water. Sold our old featherbed fora sack of flower Nooned near a spring plenty of grass. Silas’ babe is sick & I have all the cooking to do & glad that I am able to cook too This afternoon our road resembled a walk through a flower garden we traveled till late before we could get to water passed plenty of grass.
31st Old Mr Enna a consumptive going to the mountains for his health, died last nigt, and was buried about 9 Oclock this morning. we will stay here till we eat dinner. The babe is not much better.
August 1st We walked all day yesterday on account of Old Mrs Turpin being too sick to be moved, we are travailing in Wasach or Bear mountains over a very rough hilly road. I am writing during a halt in the train caused in the rear as we are forward this morning and Mrs Turpin is near the rear of the other wing I fear she is worse, is the cause of stops. They caused a stop to wait for the train to close up after crossing a bad ford in a small creek. We are nooning on Bear river, a fine looking stream.
Aug 2d Last night ice froze 1/8 of an inch in the grass. The snake indians come in to barter fish & antelope hides for bread, coffee
3d Mrs Turpin is very feeble. We are halting till noon on her account. I see they [are] fixing the cariage. I expect we will move out after dinner John bought a Elk hide of an indian for a small camp kettle. After 12 Oclock. I have just awoke from a short nap after dinner. John made a hair line yesterday and caught some fine fish. the largest was about 15 inches long speckled and had very small scales and the meat had a yellowish red cast.
4th We are geared up ready to start. The left wing leads to day in order to get Mrs Turpin out of the dust. We paid 2 $ tole today came a new road down the river bottom came to a vilage, got some onions lettice & butter. we are near the line between Idaho & Utah. irrigated from the mountains off to the right. They are mormons.
5th We are geared up ready to start they say 30 mile to Soda springs. About camping time, late too, we met some packers who told us it was 10 mile to wood and water, but we took a road turning towards the river, had to travail till 2 hours after night & I then had to get supper. Their is flax growing in these bottoms but not much in a place. very scatering.
6th Sunday morning I feel quite well this morning with the exception of a soarness in my face caused by some decay in teeth I have. John got breakfast this morning, as I canot stand the cold mountain air before sun up. the nights are pinching cold. Nooning at Soda springs. I have to brown coffee so I must get at it. I have browned and ground my coffee. The Indians come round begging & picking up the scraps. we have detained too long in this place. We came a few mile and encamped near the river. as they say here we have a long drive before we get to water again. The next waters we strike is of the Columbia.
7th Nooning on a nice stream in a valey in the mountains, so the statement about the waters of the Columbia was not so.
8th. Morning. We came to this place in good time last evening, a regular camping place, a stream with willow and grass. Lewis buried an infant here yesterday still born.
They moved out this morning while we were at breakfast There is several sick in our train. I saw the full moon rise from behind the mountain last evening.—
9th Noon. After dinner. being the first leasure I have had when the wagon was still. we have come over a rough road to day, in one place just room for the road between high mountains. some think we have come over the summit. This has been the dusty’s road we have had. This evening, not much grass either.
10th Nooned without grass. passed a station. The country is very barrain and dusty We are encamped near a fine stream, with plenty of grass—
11th All of them raised their wagon beds but us. we raised our load. we have to ford the stream and it is full. We travailed till after night. We passed good camping places, but too early to camp.
12th We are laying by to-day in consequence of our tiresome travail yesterday. I sided up my wagon, swaped a large tin of peaches for as many beans and cooked half of them for dinner, and washed some in the evening.
13 Sunday. Mrs Turpin Complained terably last night. I sat up from 10 till about 1 Oclock but she got no ease. We are detaining again on her account. There is several sick in the train. we are using spring waters John killed 3 chick I cooked them for dinner. gave 2 to the sick It is about ½ mile to the River, which is suposed to be the head waters of the Columbia.
14th We passed the falls that have been in hearing of our camp for 2 days soon this morning. some thought it fell near 40 feet. all the streams have falls. we nooned near another Cascade in the river, but quite small. I could not see the principle one till after we passed by. it looked like snow. it was so white. We travailed till night before we came to the river bottom. There is the only place where there is any grass. it was very near eaten out here. the road has lain over steep mountains mostly all evening.
15th We are nooning on a small branch with plenty of grass near what seems to have been a station, but [ ? ] less as have been 2 others we passed yesterday. Tilla is complaining. We travailed till late, and then had very indifferent grass & no water. went to bed without supper.
16th Started by day light without breakfast. Travailed till after 10 before we came to water. I was quite sick during the night with diareah. it looked like I would give quite out before I could get something to eat. the sun shone but our road has been very steep and rocky, and very dusty, almost insufferable. We nooned about 3 hours in order to give the cattle time to graze—
17th 18th I have had the diahria for two days this morning is the first time I have felt able to write since I wrote the last. I feel clear of misery but am very weak We are encamped near the river. The hills here are composed of large round dark colored rock that is the hills we have to travail over about like a rocky creek ford. Nooning on a branch road this fore noon.
19th We encamp within a few mile of a ranch, on a place that has lately been mown. It rained last night and the sun is shining as brigt as I have always been used to seeing it do after a storm. and I hear some tiny notes of birds among the willows on the branch. It lightened and thundered about like it does in Mo— We halted on the same branch and as it is 25 mile to grass, they stay here till morning.
20th started early. came to a ranch about 10 and stoped long enough to water the teams. They say 17 mile to grass. We came to the ferry about noon. got our dinner and was soon crossing the Snake river in a row boat. We had to come down a very steep side mountain road. The wagon I was in came very near run off. I had to get out and walk about a quarter down hill, we had good grass for the stock.
21st The right wing came over last evening. The wind was against the progress of the boat. This morning is still and the[y] are making rapid progress. The wagons & horses are over & they are swimming the cattle. There is a river coming out of the right bank forming several falls before reaches the bottom. it makes quite a noise. The bluffs here are almost perpendicular, there hight is beyond my estimation. 10 Oclk A.M. The order is to get dinner and start a few cattle are on the other side the[y] could not make [them] swim the river. they are going to bring them on foot. The cattle crowded up on the boat and sunk it and came near drownding some of the men. They had their boots and clothing on. They all went to the other bank. They were late night getting them over.
22d The train is trying to get in motion, her mooving now resembles a stern wheel boat at a low stage of the Mo R going up stream — Noon camp. The hill we had to come up to get out of the river bottom was about the worst we have had. The bottom was sandy. The midle portion side mountain, and the top pure rocks in steps about 2 foot high, and on a turn — watered at a spring and had a little grass too. the road is deep sand heavy pulling— Travailed till about 10 Oclock before we came to water. They say there is grass near but it is too dark to hunt it as the horses are tied to the wagons. Morning light did not find much grass for the stock. The word is another long drive to supplies of grass & water
23d We stoped at noon long enough to rest the stock & let them pick from scanty fare afforded. We came to grass & water, nice place to camp Dean is stopping a short distance above & Easton went up there to rest his sick family his oldest child is not expected to live hiself & wife both sick—
24th Considerable trouble with the stock, they scattered considerable. Old Sorel to the other correll. Puss lost hiself in the willows. McMurrain, McClure & us came on about 5 mile to the next station, in the night
25 Came to water at about 5 mile, we watered the teams, and drove till noon. had some dry bunch grass. 10 miles to good grass & water twelve Ocklock is ecceptionely hot. evenings & mornings cool. we drove till after night last night We came to good grass and water, several acres of blew grass. looked nice but the stock would not eat it. There was plenty of rye. Old Sorrel is very poor in flesh and spirits.
27th We got up early this morn got to a ranch where there is indifferent water and some grass. we fed the last shelled oats to Old Sorrel. a heavy rain fell last night, and it was very hot. I did not rest well. We camped tonight site close to a small stream coming down from the mount north of us. Tolerable grass. Lewis and Cravan camped near—
27th We watered our teams at a ranch said to be 10 miles from where we camped last night. Whites came on in the night. camped just behind us. I am trying to write home but I have so little time I make slow progress I have bread cooked for dinner. I will employ all the leasure that gives me. we are encamped in a place that has been mown long for the grass to start which makes it good grazing.
28th Started early this morning after having good grass and spring water but the long drives are bringing down our stock. morning after a five mile drive, at a place where they raised some vegetables by irrigation I bought 2 lbs of potatoes for 31 cts and cooked them for dinner. They were small & I think had been dug some time. They looked wilted some of them got good grazing by going 1 mile up the mountains—
29th Tues We camped last evening on a hill. Craven is encamped on the valey. We came 5 mile farther than White & Lewises.
30 Weds. Came over some very rocky dusty hilly roads, stoped and hired pasture at 25 cts per head, within a short distance of Boise City, sold the shot gun for 14 oz of gold dust valued at $20 Sold Old Sorrel for $25.
31st We passed through Boise yesterday, considerable place, bought sack of oats there. Then met a man hauling in a load and traded the elk hide for another sack $11 came about 5 mile fed on oats. Camped at a camp we came on with some mule teams from Mo going to Oregon. McClure wanted to fall in with White again. McMurrain is not going as far as we are. I am writing during a halt to fill the water kegs—
1st Sept. We camped last night where we stoped at noon. The wind blew so hard we could not go on. Today is cold we have come down a steep hill, the most of the road has been hilly very hilly. The M come on in the evening very happy about our going ahead. We are traveling down Piett [Payette] river, nooned on a branch grass looked green and nice but was salty. Durham is the name of the Old gentleman we are traveling with son in law Brown & family 2 married sons and families & Mrs Bell his sons wifes mother [unreadable word] going to Oregon very clever folks. Just about camping time a heavy storm set in and we were compeled to halt, and it soon commenced pouring The hail in balls a size larger than buck shot. The horses showed every sign of there intentions to beat a hasty retreat, and the men had to unharness during the thickest of the shower.
2d This morning is cold and drizling rain. We made a poor nooning came on to the Piatt and crossed it., then drove till late and camped in the snake bottom & grazed the stock on an island in the river.
3 We had a good road this forenoon encamped on a small stream called the Weazen [Weiser]. drove constant this afternoon, reached the camping place about Sundown ranches all along
4th There is a large pack train encamped at this place. About 10 Oclock. We have crossed the Snake again & waiting for the balance of the wagons to come over. They make quick trips and drive the wagons with 4 horses on at time, we brought all over at one load, except our le[a]d mare [unreadable word] Tilla is very sick with diahrea & the road today has been rough we are now in Oregon—We encamped on Burnt river, passed some packers that had lost some of their stock. Old Mr. Durham is very uneasy John went out with the stock to stay all night
5th Tilla was very sick in the night. I gave her a dose of worm medicine, when it operated she vomited and was very sick. We are nooning in a place almost destitute of grass. John fed his horses some oats. The roads have been side mountain mostly & hilly. Our drive this afternoon has been as rough as well could be. we camped near Burnt river and got good bunch grass by going a mile up the Mt.
6th Late in the evening we halted today on account of Mr Durhams little son’s being very sick. I have been washing all day. I never saw nicer water for the purpose, the bed of the creek are composed of bare rock which stand up out of the water and one can walk in on them and dip up the water without soiling it. John started early this morning to make breaks to both his wagons he has finished the one on this wagon.—
7 & 8th Today & yesterday have both been cold we halted today about 3 Oclock on acount of the cold wind, it is as cold weather as we have the first of Nov in Mo. it rained last night and we have come facing a cold west wind to-day & yesterday.
9th So cold this morning I can hardly write, heavy frost, & ice. We meet large pack trains. Met 11 yesterday, we are in Powder river valey, camped in hearing of a quartz mill
10th We passed by Ringo yesterday evening came 8 mile to this camp, got supper after night, it is raining this morning, we are in the valey skirted by snow crested pine covered mountains, we are noonin on the summit of the Blue moun[tains] we have been coming up all the forenoon, the horses are very tired, drizzling all the time too we travailed till late through a cold rain, stoped close to a deserted store house I cooked supper in it. Tilla is very sick.
11th Late in the evening. Encamped again in the Blue Mt. rained all day. The road has been hills all the time. They say we will have better roads from here to the Landing, we have good grass for the cattle.
12 They are stopping to trade for some beef. The roads have been fine since we left the Daily ranch at the foot of the Mt. some men at the quartz mill gave John a fine hound that some emigrants had left at the house just before we came to this a fox hunter had a mate for him, and offered John a sack of flour 50 lbs for him worth here $6.50. John sold it to Mr Durham for $5. intends taking it in horse feed, it looks almost like a miracle.
13th 14th 15th Morning we laid bye here yesterday, at the junction of Daily and Grand Rond road on account of Liza Durhams being to sick to travail. Jackson, Ringo, & some of our friends of Kirks Train we had not seen since we left are camped with us. Thompson passed bye yesterday morning. The name of the creek is Birch creek. Tilla has been very sick for several days, which has gave me such a press of work I have not had time to write
16th During a halt at a ranch I avail myself of an opportunity to write. It looks more like living than anything I have seen, plenty of grain stacks, pigs in a pen near where we are stoped and fatning hogs and hens singing around and plenty of little chicks, all black with white toping, we have had some steep hills to climb this morning. Emaline is complaining.
17th Sunday Morning. We are going to make a short drive this fore noon & rest the balance of the day, at a large spring, those say that are acquainted with the road.
18 Monday noon. I finished a letter home yesterday which occupied all the leasure I could get we came to the spring about 1 Oclock & stayed till this morning. John was quite sick when we stoped. Took Opium & slept all evening Emaline and 2 of her children on the sick list I have my hands full with sickness & stubbornness. I am almost at a loss to know what to do but resolve to do my duty.
19th This morning Silas says Bell is sick. I doctor myself & children & feel conserned about Bell but he has neither asked for medicine nor my advise. I would not have even known it if it were not for my own observations. There is a good physician in the train. That is enough — we are encamped close to a willow branch I do not know the name Gresham is just below us. Ringo above. To judge from the down hill we came in on—
20th 21st We are stoped to noon. Silas called the Dr this morning for Bell, & said he must stop at the John Day river till he could come up to see her, so we came on as our team is weak, and needs to be on grass. The mules & rone [roan] can stand it better than our other poor mares since we left them, it has been up hill all the way. They will be apt to be late getting in. The Dr has an ox team. They passed just as we were getting ready to bring in the horses
22d We took the Mt. road this morning. 2 of Mr Durhams sons and families Mr Fort and Gresham of our train went to the landing to ship. Cooper, Ringo, Old Mr Durhams family, Brown, Rosenberger & our selves are encamped convenient to the first water we came to. that is about that we came to-day Emaline is very complaining, & Bell is very low & they gave Cora a dose of blue mass to-day.
23d Evening camp, we arrived at the camping place about 2 O’clock. Bell is low Emaline not able to tend her, I took her in my wagon and tended her till we got here, her recovery is very doubtful—
24th 25 th 26th Silas family have been so sick and Tilla sick too. I have not had any time to write. Bell is better. I carried her yesterday in my wagon & tended her & Tilla. she is so low she cannot raise her head. Emaline is down & will not take a bit of attention from my hands. I make her diet for her & get Mrs Brown to take it to her. she is some better I think all the train have tried to prevail on Silas to stop with his sick family, but he still insists on crossing the Mt. we tarried yesterday till about 3 Oclock. we could get good pasture at 10 cts per head by making a short drive, and we were paying 25 cts. I washed and baked light bread. The women near where we were camped brought some delicacies to the sick we had desperate roads. Cross De shoots river [Deschutes] on a tole bridge $2.00
27th Morning. We made the drive by sun down, camped within The Enclosure & they could just unharness the teams & let them go on fine grass, and nice running water near us. Mrs Durham’s little girls have taken up with the children, & Tilla is enjoying herself finely. We came to a very steep side Mt road & all the teams had made a start up but our Old wagon when they went back to help Silas up he told them he believed he would go back & stop as Emaline was worse, so they had to stop there untill Mr Black & Will Rounberger took him back. We gave them $10 leaving us but 16. While they were taking him back to house where they left him as comfortable as could be expected, as those that were left tried to get the wagons up with the assistance of some men travailing in a light 2 horse vehicle. The third drive our wagon got nearly to the top of a short steep turn in the road and stoped. The wagon commenced running back. I called to the inexperienced foreigner to hold the wheel but he kept beating the horses untill they became ungovernable and the wagon turned off the road he then tried to hold it by grabing the fore wheel The man that was driving behind jumped down from his seat Hallowing for those within to get out, and just got to the hind wheel in time to save the wagon. I made all the haste I could to get the children out. it then took all hands to get the wagon back on the road.
28 th Nooning at the entrance into the Mt. called Barlow’s gate they talk of making a short drive into the Mt. I am not well.
29th In the Mt. detained to mend the hind axle of Mr Browns wagon, which has just broken down after a steep short drive & a late start. The sun is shining brightly when we came to the camping place late yesterday evening, we found Mr Brown & Rosenberger there long enough to have good fires. Rosenberger had made his fire against a very tall pine which stood near his wagons about 10 Oclock Will raised the alarm that the tree was windshaken and rapidly burning down. They all went to work and backed the wagons up hill on sideling ground and then cut the tree down to make all things safe, which fell square across the road, which had to be cut off and drawn to one side by oxen this morning which detained us considerable.
Oct. 22. At Mr. Knights, where we stoped because was not able to travail. I am now able to walk about & all the rest are sick. Sent for the Dr for Mr Black, as he was worse than ever last night.
Nov. 3 Left Knights—Landed at Uncle Josiah Hannah 17th [Dec.] December 1st Isaac arrived at Uncle Jo’s 2nd [Jan.] It snowed last night in the valley. This morning is rapidly melting
10th Raining. Rogue river out of its banks. Still at Uncle Joes
1866 January 10th Moved home to a little cabin about one and half miles above Uncle Joes close to the river.
Jan 19th Heavy snow fell last night & it has been raining all day and had a nice time getting a bucket of water.
EPILOGUE
Mary Louisa and John Black, with the two children, stayed at Hannah’s eight weeks, and they paid them $10, according to a later entry in the notebook. John bought land as soon as possible, and they lived in a cabin already in existence on it until a large hewed log house was built. In the yard near the road Louisa planted five shell bark hickory nuts which she had brought with her from Missouri. Two of them grew, and one is still alive as of this writing. The trunk is about 14 inches in diameter, and the tree has wide-spreading branches because the top has been cut to avoid contact with a power line directly over it. A crop of very hard hickory nuts is produced every year on this lone shell bark tree. The old log house was still intact until the early 1920s. Some time during those years a new owner took it down and replaced it with a different type of log house, which still stands today.
Isaac Black, John’s older brother, arrived in December 1865. He stayed with them from time to time, but he did not take up land. He became a miner. Records show that he had a mining claim with two other men on Jumpoff Joe Creek in Josephine County, Oregon, in 1867. He was living with the Blacks in Jackson County when the census was taken in 1870. He returned to Missouri about 1875.
Over the years the Hannahs and the Blacks worked together to develop and farm their land on opposite sides of the Rogue River. Within a year or two Josiah Hannah built a ferry boat and operated it between their two properties. Soon other settlers were crossing on it, so Josiah Hannah applied to Jackson County for a license to run a toll ferry. The license was granted in June 1869, and by 1872 the county had surveyed and opened a public road to Hannah’s ferry, which gave better access to the Upper Rogue country and to Fort Klamath. Hannah’s ferry operated until 1874, when a new road and another ferry came into use.
Tragedy struck Mary Louisa and John Black again in 1867 when baby Clifton died in a diphtheria epidemic. They buried him at the edge of a field below the house. There is no trace of the little grave today, as the fields have been inundated by floods several times over the years.
Two years later on October 14, 1869, a son, Lee, was born, and four years later, in 1873, another daughter, Martha, saw the light of day. Mary Louisa taught her children to read and write in her own home, as there was no public school close by until 1890. They were as competent as any of their peers. Before she was twenty, Tilla took the teacher’s examination, and she taught a few terms.
As the family grew, they all helped to make a living. The girls tanned deer skin, made gloves and sold them. They also raised turkeys and chickens and sold eggs. Lee worked as a logger in the woods and also in the hay fields in Klamath County. He and his father killed deer and sold the fresh meat to the miners around Jacksonville. In 1891 John M. Black won the bid to operate the county ferry across Rogue River about three miles north of their farm. His salary was $25 per month, and he carried out his contract faithfully for four years.
Martha was the first of the Black children to marry. She married Peter E. Betz in 1904, and they lived on an adjoining farm for over fifty years. They had no children, but they were devoted to their nieces and nephews. Next to marry was Lee. In November 1905, he married a local school teacher, Helen Holtan, and brought her home to live with Mary Louisa and John. Two daughters were born to them while they lived there: Olena Martha, b. September 1906, and Lottie Myrtills, b. February 1908.
John Maupin Black died on February 20, 1907. He was buried in Central Point Cemetery, near Central Point, Oregon. The property was divided up among the three children. After the estate was settled, Lee sold his share, and he and Helen started looking for a farm of their own. They found one on Forest Creek about ten miles from Jacksonville in the Applegate River valley. It consisted of 268 acres of land mostly timbered, with about 45 acres under cultivation. There was a small house, log barn and other buildings, on the site of an old saw mill. Lee and Helen, with their two small daughters, moved to this ranch in June 1908.
After the death of her husband in 1907, Mary Louisa made her home with Tilla. Two years later Tilla married bachelor neighbor, Chris Bergman, and he built a simple board and batten house for them. They farmed his land as well as hers for many years. In 1910 Mary Louisa’s health began to fail, and she passed away on June 20, 1911. Over on Forest Creek just six days earlier, on June 14, 1911, her grandson John Maupin Black II, was born to Lee and Helen Black. She probably never got to see him, but we hope she knew about him before she died.
Lee and Helen Black had two more children, a daughter, Ruth, born 1915, who died in infancy; and another daughter, Helen Isabelle, born April 26, 1918. Lee and Helen Black lived out their lives on this ranch. She died in 1928, and he lived until 1945. They are buried in Logtown Cemetery, near Ruch, Jackson County. John M. Black II inherited the ranch, and with his wife, Marguerite, still lives there.
MARGUERITE W. BLACK
LIST OF MEDICINES
This was evidently provided by the Black family’s doctor for use on the long overland journey. It is among the Black family papers.
Dear Friend,
I give you below a bit of medicines for your trip across the plains. Such as are in powder form you must get the druggist to give you a sample of the dose to enable you to administer it.
| Laudanum | 4 ounces dose 25 drops |
| Turpentine | 16 ounces dose 1½ teaspoonful |
| Castor oil | 1 bottle ½ pt dose ½ tablespoonful |
| McLeans pills | 3 boxes |
| Calomel | ½ drachm |
| Blue Mass | ½ drachm |
| Quinine | 4 drachm |
| Sugar of Lead | 4 drachm |
| Coal oil | 1 pint |
| Eye Water made of | 2 grains of Sulpt of Zinc to one ounce water. Get two ounces made up. |
| Paregoric | 8 ounces and mix one ounce of Tannin with it — for bowel complaint of children — dose your oldest child ½ teaspoonful — for the infant give ten drops — for Tillie ¼ teaspoonful. |
| Ipecac | 2 drachms — dose 20 grains, 5 grains every 15 minutes |
| Epsom Salt | ¼ pound dose heaping tablespoonful |
| Mustard Seed | ½ pint or 1 box ground mustard |
| Blister Plaster | 2 ounces |
| One thumb lancet | and tooth forceps for the company. One will do the crowd. |
| Blue Stone | 2 drachms |
| Hartshorn | ½ ounce |
You are likely to take no other diseases on the route besides common Diarhoea, Dysentery, and Mountain Fever.
For Diarhoea give the paregoric and tannin — for an adult, I tablespoon is a dose. Or take a dose of tannin with 25 drops of Laudanum and repeat every 3, 4, or 6 hours. Sometimes a dose of the Blue Mass at first is best, then begin on the other.
If you take dysentery or flux (all the same) be sure and not keep the bowels locked up over 12 hours at a time. You must begin on Salts — full dose, after they act two or three times (which you will know by a change in the stools to a more natural character) then quiet the bowels with a full dose of Laudanum and repeat it in six hours. Then at the same time, on the next day that you gave the Salts, you give another dose and give Salts every day at the same time of day, repeat dose in six hours if the first dose not act — then follow it with Laudanum as before. Nearly all of the deaths from flux are from keeping the bowels too much closed.
Mountain Fever — This is the easiest thing treated in the world. You first give a very active purgative, nearly a double dose of McLean’s Pills or Blue Mass and Calomel combined, then 40 drops of Laudanum, and sponge the body often with tepid water — repeat the Laudanum from 25 to 40 drops so as to keep the patient under the influence of it 48 hours. Then if there be any fever left, repeat the purgative (a common dose now) followed by the Laudanum.
Colic — give a double dose of Castor oil with ½ teaspoonful of turpentine — repeat every three hours. As soon as it acts your colic is gone.
Cholera Morbus — give oil and Laudanum with mustard over the whole bowels.
1Fremont’s Orchard was a stopping place for the overland stage in Colorado. Frank A. Root and W.E. Connelly, The Overland Stage to California (Glorietta, N.M., 1970) pp. 102, 224.
2She spells Cache la Poudre three different ways, all wrong, on two pages. Merrill J. Mattes tells us that next to “Robudoux” this French name was mis-spelled more often than any other. The English translation would be “Powder Cache.” J. Frank Dawson, Place Names in Colorado (Denver, Co., 1954), p. 12; Merrill J. Mattes, Platte River Road Narratives (Urbana, Ill., 1988), p. 595.
3Pennyroyal is a plant of the mint family, also the oily juice of that plant.
4Evidently she means here that the conversation was about Indians.
5Fort Halleck, Carbon County, Wyoming, was a short-lived Civil War fort (1862–1866). It was a strategic post on the Overland Stage route. It was built by the Eleventh Ohio Volunteer Cavalry. Wyoming, A Guide to Its History, Highways and People (New York, 1952), p. 237; Mae Urbanek, Wyoming Place Names(Missoula, Mont., 1988), p. 70.