The Gila Trail: Texas to California, 1868

Harriet Bunyard

INTRODUCTION

In the pioneer Savannah Memorial Park in El Monte, California, are three grave stones of particular interest to anyone who seeks information about the Larkin S. and Frances (Stewart) Bunyard family. The cemetery records list the following persons as having been buried there:

L.S. Bunyard	died 6–18–1889	age 77
Frankie Bunyard	died 1898	age 81
Hattie Bunyard	died 1897	age 51

Harriet (Hattie) Bunyard was the author of the following diary telling of their longjourney from McKinney, Texas, to El Monte, California. One insight gained from the cemetery records is that she remained an unmarried woman all her life.

The best reference for the names of the Bunyard children is the 1870 census of El Monte Township, which reads as follows:

Mollie Bunyard	27 years old
James B. [Beal]	25
Hattie [Harriet]	21
Daniel	20
Josephine	15
Oscar	12
Fanny	10

The children’s father was Larkin B. Bunyard. His birthplace had been North Carolina and date of birth November 11, 1812. The maiden name of the mother was Frances (Fanny) Stewart. Her birthplace was Tennessee. Harriet was born in Texas.

The story of the family was gathered up by the researchers of the Works Progress Administration (W.P.A.) in 1937. It is one of moves westward over many years.

They lived in McKinney, Texas, for a number of years. There the father had taught school. He also operated a cotton gin for a period. Upon reaching California, Larkin Bunyard became a farmer, and this was the trade he followed until a year before his death in 1889.

In the El Monte area the Bunyards settled on a tract of twenty-five acres just west of town. Although there were no improvements on the land at the time, they were able to purchase a three-acre tract just south of Main Street in El Monte, where a house had been built.

This was a deeply religious family of the Baptist faith. Politically they leaned toward the Democratic Party. They seem to have immersed themselves in community service and improvement.

The diary was kept in pencil. It was transcribed by Fanny (Bunyard) Lewis, another daughter. An undated clipping from an unnamed newspaper among the records tells how Mrs. Lewis was especially careful in copying the diary that it be done accurately. She did it with pen and ink. She said it was somewhat dim in places, but “with the aid of a magnifying glass, every word was completely identified.” It was published in the Annual Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California (XIII, 1924), pp. 92–124.

Two persons have been particularly helpful in tracing information about this elusive family: The cemetery information was supplied to us by Hubert E. Fouts, Secretary of the El Monte Cemetery Association. Mrs. Sally M. Emerson of La Canada used her expert knowledge of Southern California history to search out and supply us the information about census records and other materials. We are indebted to both of these persons and are grateful to them for work well done.

THE DIARY

April 29–30: Collin County, Texas, Have almost completed our preparations for the much-talked-of journey. Friends and neighbors have been so kind in assisting us. Long will they be remembered.

May 1st: Bid a kind adieu to my much loved Texas home. Although the road was very muddy we had a pleasant drive, long will it be remembered. Arrived at Uncle Stewart’s in the evening, twelve miles distant. Will remain here until Monday, this being Saturday.

May 3rd: All in fine spirits. Started early—traveled fifteen miles; crossed the west fork of the Trinity and Little Elm. Had no trouble; camped on a high beautiful prairie. Passed over a broken, hilly country. Two men were hung near the camp the evening before and were said to be still hanging; were hung for stealing.

May 4th: Started early, traveled over a beautiful, sandy prairie, arrived at Pilot Point1 about 12, stopped and ate dinner and purchased some necessary articles. Had some photographs taken. Fred Turner insisted that some of the girls should stay with him, said he had no companion but no one would take pity on him and stay. Left town about 3 o’clock. It was rather dusty, being sandy soil. Splendid water there. Crossed a small creek. The road was very rough but all made it safe through. Passed through the cross-timbers;2 they have a picturesque appearance—part oak timber with small prairies. Crossing was good across Big Elm. Camped upon the prairie. ‘Twas dark when we camped; everybody tired. Traveled eighteen miles.

May 5: All ready—waiting for some immigrants who camped on the other side of the creek. They are from Arkansas. Four wagons, two hacks, 10 men—This is a lonely looking place, seven miles, crossed Duck Creek, stayed to eat dinner. It is very pretty stream, rocky bottom. Just ready to start when Stewart’s wagon tongue got broken, we made another, went two miles, camped by a little branch near Boliner. Stayed one day, went fishing with one of the ladies living near Boliner [Bolivar?], caught some small fish. Would not like to live here. Sold some things that we started with in order to lighten our loads.

May 7th: Denton—Two more young men joined the train making 22 men. Crossed Clear Creek, passed two vacant houses, suppose the Indians were the cause of them being left. Came to Denton Creek, there had a little bad luck, a wagon turned over but no serious damage done. Went two miles farther, and camped by a little branch, here the water falls 15 feet from beautiful shell rock. Trees growing down there with their tops just even with the level of the land. Such a good place for Indians to hide. Passed two vacant houses, they look very desolate. The country has a wild appearance.

May 8th: Quite a pleasant wind blowing from the east this morning. Started early, traveled 21 miles over such a rough road through very thick post oak timber. Came in sight of government mills, there at a branch we found a broken wagon loaded with very large cotton-wood log, pried the log off and took the wagon away. Passed over in safety. Here are quite a number of small houses all made with the plank standing on one end also covered with plank. They are all close together and form quite a romantic appearance. Camped near by in the timbers. Stood guard tonight. Now I wish there were no wild Indians.

May 9th—Sabbath Morn: What are my friends in Collin doing this morning, going to church I will suppose. Started and drove two miles to water for the stock. Have camped in very nice place. Will remain until Monday. Every appearance of rain, all hurrying to get tents stretched and fixed before rain. One lonely looking little house in sight, the people that live there are part Indian. Eight more wagons with 10 men joined us this morning. They were camped at Decater waiting for company. Appointed Uncle Stewart captain of the train.

May 10th-11th: Rain prevented us leaving until Tuesday when we drove 14 miles, passed where there had been a little village but was but one family there. All left on account of the Indians. The country is very broken. High hills covered with large rocks that look like houses in the distance. I am now sitting on the hillside while the clear notes of the whipporwill is singing in the still twilight evening—a memory of the past comes o’er us.

May 12th: Came seven miles and camped in a small prairie surrounded with timber and high hills. We went to the top of one of the hills and found many curious rocks. The top was almost covered with level rocks while on the sides were great stacks that looked like they had been placed there by the skill of man. Crossed west fork of the Trinity—had no trouble crossing.

May 14th-15th: We are now camped by a nice, clear branch and good spring up on a hill. Splendid cold water. Jacksboro is in plain view. Federals quarters are nicest part of town. Elm and Mesquite timbers, sandy soil with rocky hills is general appearance of the country. Mostly timber except small prairies. The people here are kind and accommodating. It is reported that there has been some Indians seen not far off, but we have not seen any. Some of the girls went up town today, others went fishing, but did not catch many. Two of the Federal officers visited our camp—nice looking men. They say if we stay here until the evening of the 16th that they will visit us with their brass band.

May 16th—Sabbath Evening: We have traveled about 15 miles today Passed through Jacksboro and over a very rocky road. It is quite a romantic looking country. High hills as far as I can see, covered with small timber and large rocks. Oh! how it did rain and blow last night. There is a very cold northwest wind. Several families from Denton County have overtaken us. There are now 45 men in this train.

May 17th: Two men passed by camp last night going after the doctor for some wounded men that had been in a fight with the Indians. There were 12 men out herding stock—no firearms but pistols and 50 Indians dashed down on them. Killed two men and wounded five. One of the wounded died this evening. Killed every one of their horses. This fight occurred five miles above where we are now camped. The men that were wounded are at a ranch about one mile from our camp. Several of the boys went to see them this evening. They suffered so much before they had any attention. Supposed the rest of the wounded will get well. The stage passes from Belknap to Jacksboro. the distance of 38 miles, and is guarded oy five Indians of a friendly tribe. They look so Indian-like with two rings in each ear and beads strung all about them. Traveled 15 miles today over nice road and beautiful prairie.

Young County, May 18 th: One yoke of oxen was missing this morning, therefore we have moved only one mile to better range. An old vacant house here and very good water. Found the oxen but too late to go any farther so will remain until morning.

May 19th: Started late—traveled 10 miles. Passed Fort Belknap. The houses are very much delapidated here. Many chimneys standing alone. Not more than six families living there. It is a very pretty place for a town if it was only improved. Crossed Brazos river; it is a beautiful stream with no timber immediately on its banks. Live oak and mesquite and elm with sandy soil is general appearance of the country, with the greatest quantity and very good variety of wild flowers. Some of the most beautiful. Camped about three miles from town. It is 35 miles from Belknap to Fort Griffin.

May 20th: Detained again on account of stock. Some of the boys caught some very nice fish in the Brazos. Started after dinner, went six miles. Camped in nice place in small prairies, surrounded with post oak timber.

May 21st: Very warm and cloudy morning. Started early, made a drive of 17 miles; splendid road. Had nothing but branch water and it was warm, not clear. The Collin County boys killed an antelope this evening—the meat resembles that of a kid.

May 22: Camped one mile from Fort Griffin on east side of clear fork of the Brazos. It is a pretty stream with large pecan timber on the banks. I think we will get some nice fish here.

May 26: Will leave here this morning; passed away the time very well since we have been here. Sabbath morning we hitched up our ambulances and drove to the fort. Federals have very nice quarters there. The citizens’ houses are very inferior, small log huts. Have splendid water here. Indians have caused more disturbance for the past five months than for several years. Little girl living here that the Indians took and kept eight months. Her friends bought her. Whilst they had her they picked a round ring of powder in her forehead as large as a ten-cent piece. It makes a black ring and cannot be taken away. Suppose they done it that they might know her again. They had her little sister but would not sell her. Her friends think they will sell her this year. The other little girl said that they were very kind to her. The Indians killed their mother when they captured them. In our drive Sabbath morning we went one-half mile from the fort to where were camped considerable number of Tonk Indians3—was but very few that could talk English. Their little huts were covered with hay and dirt and doors just big enough for one to pass through. They were all busy at work. We then called at Miss Campbell’s. Spent an hour—went back to camp; here we got plenty of pickles and beans to do us through. We also had some fish from the river Wednesday morning. Will start this morning. Got late start but everything was rested and we traveled 18 miles over rough rocky road. We have splendid camping place this evening with fine range; our teams are in better order now than when we started. There is quite a number of emigrants near and with us now.

May 28th: left camps early; traveled over beautiful road; found some cranberries, the first I ever saw. They are splendid. Traveled 16 miles and camped by nice running stream and fine spring—cold water which is quite a treat. There is a grave near this spring—it has no inscription on it—therefore we know nothing of the inhabitants thereof. Some one perhaps that like us was in search of a new home. How I should regret to leave one of my friends along the roadside in a strange land. We have not passed a house since we left Fort Griffin which is 35 miles.

May 29th: All is ready and started early when to our surprise aboutjo Federals from Griffin rode upjust as the last wagon was leaving camp. They halted the wagons and searched them for some carbine guns that some of the train had purchased. They did not find them therefore we had to stay at the same camp; came back and stayed there all day—The Federals camped on the other side of the branch and watched around all day. That night about 8 they came to our camp and arrested several and kept them all night. Ten guns were brought up that night—they were brought by a citizen at the fort—the sergeant had stolen them and given them to the citizens to sell. The sergeant was arrested and one of our men was taken back to testify against the citizen that sold them and the others that had purchased were taken next morning to the fort. Imagine our anxiety although neither father or brother had purchased a gun yet our friends in the train had. But as fortune favored us they did nothing but take their testimony and permitted them to return to camps next evening. This only detained them two days. They did not give back the money that the men paid for the guns. I am very glad as we were detained that we were at such splendid water.

May 30th—Sabbath Morning: Although we do not wish to travel on Sunday we will have to leave here today—as our stock are beginning to ramble. Camped again; traveled about 12 miles; passed Thornton’s Hill—are but two houses there but many chimneys standing where houses have been—they look so lonely standing there. Country broken—Mesquite and Chaparall bushes with few scattered Elms, are the only timber. How strange it seems to travel all day and not any houses. We hear of Indians being seen at every foot but we do not apprehend any danger from them. It rained a hard shower this evening—some hail—which renders camping rather unpleasant. We miss our nice spring tonight as the water is not very good. Are camped tonight on a high prairie and in sight on another hill another large train is camped.

May 31 st: Started early—traveled 20 miles. Came in sight yesterday of a high peak of mountains—was in sight all day and camped just opposite it tonight. It is noted place and is called “Indian’s Pass.” Here the Indians pass through the mountains. Some of the boys went to the top; they looked to be about one-half as high as they really were. A large rock seems to cover the top of the peak; it is on the left of the road—found some beautiful cedar trees here.

June 1st: Passed stage stand this morning. Traveled eight miles—most of the way with mountains on each side of the road. Had to camp here in order to have plenty of water—had clear running branch—very good water. Found some gooseberries and green grapes—made some pies of them.

June 2nd: Camped in sight of the mountain—yet been passing them all day—something resembling a grave was found on the top of one of the mountains—with a pile of rock by it with white cloth wrapped around the rock. We do not know what it was for. Found great many Buffalo hides near the camp; suppose that they had been stretched there last winter. Have not seen any Buffalo yet—seen some little prairie dogs today; they resemble a squirrel. Have not come to large town yet. Had some fish from the creek that was near the camp this evening. Have traveled about 13 miles today.

June 3rd: Started early—passed old Fort Chilltoueno4—was very much disappointed. I expected to find people living there but the only inhabitants were a few colored soldiers. One Mexican keeping stage stand. All of the houses that I saw were made of rock and there was some very nice looking dwellings here and it would be a beautiful place if it were only inhabited by nice people and some improvements made. It is 105 miles from Fort Griffin to old Fort Shaddron [Chad-bourne]. Are still camped in sight of mountains. When I was at home I thought I liked the mountains, but they look so lonesome way out there where a bird is scarcely ever seen. We have had very cool, pleasant weather to travel so far; today has been warm and the road very dusty. Came about 15 miles today.

June 4th: Some stock missing this morning. Moved four miles; crossed Colorado river. Camped on the west side of it. It is very pretty stream—no timber on the banks as far as I can see—crossed so near the head that it is very small. The boys have caught some nice fish from the river. It is 30 miles from the Colorado to Fort Concho.5 Some Federals camped on the river near our trains. Also another train of immigrants that was behind came up with us and camped on the right of the road while we were on the left. There are no immigrants ahead of us.

June 5 th: Found all the stock and all ready to start early. Had light shower of rain yesterday evening and still cloudy with quite a pleasant wind blowing this morning. Made a good day’s drive—had to leave the road one mile to get water sufficient to camp with and then it was not good.

June 6th: Oh, we have had such a splendid road—the most level prairie I have ever seen. Crossed north of the Cone hip [Concho]. Passed through the Fort. It is a beautiful place for a town and there are some very nice looking buildings there, principally made of rock. Here we saw the colored troops standing around among the Yankees,6 regardless of color or grade. North Conchip [Concho] is small stream; very nice timber on its banks. The main stream is considerable larger. Here we had some large fish and are camped near the bank tonight. We will travel up this stream 45 miles. It is 85 miles from Fort Conchip [Concho] to Fort Griffin. We are n0W350 miles from home or McKinney. Is splendid spring not far where we are camped. Two or three company’s of infantry soldiers are camped at this spring two miles from the fort.

June 7th: For the last two or three days we have had wild currants in great abundance. The little prairie dogs bark and run about as we pass their dwellings which are all subterranean.

June 8th: Nothing of interest passed today.

June 9th: Camped near the Concho. Been washing and rearranging things generally. Will leave here this evening— make short drive in order to reach the desert or the river in two more days. Here we found another large cold spring surrounded with willow trees. The cattle got scared, we suppose at a dog. Quite an excitement was raised in camps— we didn’t know but what the Indians were about. Part of the boys went in pursuit of them while others tied horses to the wagons. They did not go more than a mile until they succeeded in bringing them back. No one was hurt. Will leave here this evening. We have two men in our train that have traveled the road before—this is a great advantage.

June 9th: Camped in nice place near the river. Had a shower of rain this evening which was quite an advantage. High hill near the camps and on the right of the road—not near so high as some that we had passed but it was near the road and myself with several others went to the top; there we found something that looked like a grave that had been there a long time; it had rocks piled around it. Have had very little sickness in the train so far. One man sick now; has been very sick; I hope he will get well.

June 10th: Camped again on the river [Concho]. We are not far from the head and it is getting small; 70 miles from where we cross the river and then strike the desert. Had another shower of rain this evening. All seem to think we will have plenty of water.

June 11 th: Near the river again—found plenty of gooseberries but did not find very nice camping place—so many Mesquite bushes.

June 12th: Started very early—went 12 miles—camped in very nice place—will start across the first desert tomorrow. They say that we will have plenty of water most of the way. The sick man is improving; I think he will be well soon. I think this is beautiful country.

June 13th: Rained very hard last night which makes it very pleasant traveling this morning. Passed this morning where a United States soldier was buried, he started across the plains intending to overtake a train of immigrants that were going to California, but failed to do so and therefore starved for food. When he was found he had canteen with water in it by him. He was trying it seems to get back. Found plenty of water and camped early this evening. Mesquite bushes is the only timber in sight.

June 14th: Came four miles. Stopped by a pond of water—ate dinner—did some cooking—filled our barrels with water and started early after dinner. It is 3 5 miles to the Pecos which is the next water. We traveled until after midnight. Had beautiful and bright moonlight most of the time. Had very good grass—little bush for wood.

June 15th: All ready to start early this morning. Gave our horses water out of our barrels. They were not very thirsty. Arrived at the river early in the afternoon. Nothing had suffered for water. Passed through the Castle Mountains. They are the prettiest mountains I ever saw—not a bush can be seen—nothing but scatter grass; some of them resemble houses very much from a distance. Passed Central Station7 yesterday—nothing but Negroes there guarding stage stand.

June 16th: The Pecos is narrow, deep and muddy stream with no timber on its bank it is now level with the banks; very bad tasted water. There is a skiff that the mail is crossed in and we have permission to cross our things in it—commenced crossing as early as we could get all the stock to the ford—they would put the things out of the wagons into the skiff and then tied ropes to the wagons and crossed. One wagon came uncoupled in the river; another broke the rope that was on the tongue but those on the opposite side still had hold of the other ropes and the men swam in and brought all safe to shore. Got all the wagons and the plunder over about 3 o’clock and then commenced crossing the cattle and horses. Just about the time all the wagons were over, Brother Dan and Ed Stewart with several others jumped into the river to try their speed swimming; the current being very swift Ed Stewart cramped and was sinking the last time when they caught him. In trying to rescue Ed, Brother Dan came very near drowning being so near exhausted; the skiff was pushed to them and they got in and came safe. Mr. Bottoms had a mule drowned in trying to cross. The only thing that we lost. They kept crossing about 10 o’clock in the night. When anything would start down stream they would plunge in and bring them out. It is only a few places that the stock can get down to the water without going in overhead.

June 17th: Had but little trouble in crossing the remainder of the stock—got them over and commenced reloading about 12 o’clock. The men have labored faithful in getting across the river, that has been so much dreaded; all is safe and I am truly thankful. Will go seven miles this evening and camp again on the river. While we were loading the train that was behind came to the opposite bank. I can sympathize with them for I know that they dread crossing. This stream is kept full by melting snow from the mountains. It is 85 miles from Concho to Pecos River.

June 18th: Made long drive and camped in a beautiful place by a sulphur spring. The water is very cold but I do not like the taste. This is said to be a noted place for Indians as there is plenty of water here. There are some little Indian huts not far from camp. We are still among the mountains. The highest growth that is seen is a shrub called the Spanish dagger which is from four to six feet high with long blades, some two inches broad and three feet long, terminating at both ends. One end has very sharp point. It is 85 miles from Concho to Pecos.

June 19 th: Drove over nice road and passed by some beautiful mountains. Are camped near a stage stand where is Negro guard. One white man there. We get water out of very good spring. A train of Mexicans and also one of Negro soldiers passed by our camp today. They are going to San Antonio.

June 20th—Sabbath Morning: Finds me in camp and will remain here until Monday morning. This morning is warm and cloudy. I wish we would have a shower of rain as the road is very dusty. It is 240 miles from where we now are to El Paso. When we get there we are half way to California. Spend day reading and talking.

June 21 st: Rained some last night; is raining this morning. Had very hard rain ahead of us which makes the road pleasant and the air cool. We passed by a grocery. Camped near the fort. Mexicans live here but very few white people. Passed in sight of three farms; none of them had any fence around. There is large farm three miles from the fort. The Negroes work it for the government. No timber at all here; they burn roots altogether for fire wood. I do not think thcat this is pretty country. Have fine springs here; the water is a little brackish.

June 22nd: Came nine miles today; found plenty of water and splendid grass; very good wood. Has been an old fort here. Mexican family camped with us tonight; they are going to Fort Janis, 60 miles from here. They travel by themselves and do not seem to be at all afraid. This is beautiful camping place and pretty surrounding country.

June 23rd: Cool and pleasant morning. All ready to start early. They told us that there was plenty water in about 12 miles from where we were. So we did not fill our barrels, only filled our small kegs. To our disappointment the water was all dried up and we had to go 25 miles in place of 12. So we had no drinking water all the evening. We found some water standing in a pond but not enough for our stock; it was then an hour after sunset but the moon was shining brightly so we camped and put all our stock in the corral without letting them eat any as they all wanted water—so we started next morning before breakfast and went eight miles to Barrella [Barilla] Springs8—here we found a cold, pure water well at the stage stand and a spring up in the mountains.

June 24th: Remained here until evening—filled our barrels with water and went short distance to better range. Ma is sick, has the flux; quite a number of the train has the same complaint.

June 25th: We are now traveling through a long and narrow gap through the Olymphia [Limpia] Mountains. Some places there is just space enough for the wagons to pass through. On the top of these mountains, some of which I suppose are near a mile from the level, we find low bunches of live oak trees. Rained hard last night. Found nice place to camp—plenty of wood but no water but we had water with us.

June 26th: Camped about 1 o’clock—found plenty of wood and water. Ma is some better. Part of the train went on this evening. Families remained here until morning as our trains need rest.

June 27th: Started early—passed some of the prettiest mountains. They are straight up about 50 feet with here and there a little bushes and vines running over them full of nice flowers. Branch running along the foot of the mountains and nice springs. Camped with mountains near on each side and spring on the left. The train that left are about three miles before us. Some of them are now six miles from Fort Davis. Ma is better this morning. Man passed camps last night and told us that four mounted Indians and eight on foot had taken all the mules and horses at stand at Barrella Springs Friday about 12 o’clock. The man was on his way to the fort after soldiers. They passed by last night going to recover their horses. Some moccasin tracks were seen in the road just ahead of us. This is their main passway they say. I do not think they will ever attack us; they will get their horses if they can. If I was at home I think I would go to church today. The time has passed much pleasanter than expected on the road; we will move short distance this morning to fresh grass for the stock. Camped in nice place by the side of high mountain.

June 28th: Will remain here today to wash as we have such nice clear water. There has been great deal of rain through this country, which makes the range fine. This pass through these Mountains is called “Wild Rose Gap” and it is very appropriate name as there are so many wild roses in the little valleys.9

June 29th: Passed through Fort Davis; it is pretty little place by the side of the mountains. The valley is wide here and the mountains small. Here are found vegetables very high, roasting ears ($1.50 doz.), butter ($1.00 lb.), eggs ($1.00 lb.). This is a beautiful valley. We have delightful camping place tonight. There is such a nice spring here and splendid water in abundance running out of the mountains about nine miles from Fort Davis. Several stores here; some white people and Mexicans and Negroes. There are 400 soldiers here. They played their band as we passed the fort.

June 30th: Are camped tonight at Barrella [Barrel] Springs, 18 miles from Fort Davis. Not very nice place to camp. Grapes not very good. We passed some nice grove of live oak trees today. Very little timber in this country. There is stage stand here. Negroes to guard it.

July 1st: Intended staying at Barrella Springs until tomorrow but there was train of Negroes from the pinery that were hauling lumber to Stockton and another train of Mexicans camped at the same place. They had whiskey and the Negro soldiers got drunk and began cutting up so we harnessed up and left when the sun was not more than one hour high. We traveled three miles and made a dry camp there. We found plenty of good grapes. We knew that they had the advantage of us, if we had killed any of them then we would have been detained some time if nothing more. These military posts are a great pest to immigrants.

July 2nd: Camped at Dead Man’s holes10 13 miles from Barrella Springs. Is another stand here two miles from camp—good spring at the stand. There we get water to use. Water at camp for stock. This wide nice valley—no timber except some small brush.

July 3rd: Will remain at Dead Man’s hole until morning. Have spent the day sewing and cooking. The train that was behind came up this evening. They will remain here few days as their cattle are lame and worn down. Our teams are all in good plight for traveling. We have had plenty of rain. Have shower most every evening, which is very agreeable.

July 4th: Started this beautiful Sabbath morning and will travel nine miles. Here we found plenty of good water in ponds. It has been many days since we was out of sight of mountains or in sight of timber of any consequence. We have beautiful level road all the time. To see the cactus and Mexican daggers you would think that there was no scarcity of timber.

July 5th: Several carriages, three wagons, one lady and several men passed this morning on their way to El Paso—from San Antonio. No wood here—not even small brush.

July 6th: Camped at another pond of rain water—better luck than we expected finding water. There is plenty of wood here. Passed Van Horn’s11 well this evening—could get no water. There is stage stand here. It is 32 miles from Dead Man’s hole to Van Horn’s well.

July 7th: Traveled all day and had to make dry camp. We had sufficiency of using water with us and they found enough water for the horses. Four of the men went ahead this evening to hunt camping place. They saw four bear. This is dangerous place for Indians. Has been moccasin tracks seen all about here. There was fire seen about 9 o’clock on the top of the mountains. Supposed it to be Indians camp. Tied all our horses to the wagon and never let the cattle leave the corral. We are camped in six miles of Eagle Springs.

July 8th: Started before breakfast and came to Eagle Springs. Here we found plenty of water for all the stock by dipping it with buckets. The spring is by the side of high mountain 19 miles from Van Horn’s Wells to Eagle Springs. The train that is ahead did not get any water here. There was so many of them together. It is 35 miles from here to next water that we know of—if the other trains did not find water before they got there with their stock must have suffered greatly.

July 9th: The health of our little train is very good at present. We have 20 men—11 wagons—eight families with us. They say that we can see the river from the top of the mountains. The Negroes here have been very kind to us. The spring does not run off it uses and fills up as it is dipped out. There is quite a number of Indian Warriors said to live not far from Eagle Springs.

July 10th: Left Eagle Springs on the 9th about 2 o’clock— traveled until an hour by sun—made coffee and rested a while and started—traveling until 11 o’clock. Had splendid road and all went on without trouble. We passed through narrow canyon just sufficient room fora road. High mountains on each side. We arrived at river about 2 o’clock. Our cattle was very thirsty but all made the trip very well. I am proud to say that we are at the Rio Grande. It is said to be one-half way to California. The road is very dry and dusty now but every appearance of rain.

July 11th: Camped near the river. There is some timber on the banks of the river—the first that we have seen since we left Concho except few scattered live oak. I do not admire this country. Has not been much rain here therefore grass is not very good. It is two miles from camps to Fort Quitman. Are in Texas and can see Mexico. Can see nothing but mountains and rocks. We will make short drives from now on so the stock can have time to recruit.

July 12th: Passed through Fort Quitman. Got some small June apples there. Didn’t see any white women there. There were some Mexican women—some very nice looking— dressed very nice. Some nice looking white men. Beautiful grove of cotton wood trees around the fort. All the houses were perfectly flat. Camped by a lake near the river. Had very hard rain last night which was much needed. Came to this place Sunday evening. Will stay here until Tuesday morning, July 13th: Started after supper and made nice drive by moonlight. The days are getting so warm that we cannot travel only early in the morning.

July 14th: Started this morning before breakfast and went to good camping place—had large cottonwood tree that afforded us nice shade. Started this evening about one hour by sun and traveled 12 miles—camped. The nights are pleasant for traveling. Mexicans brought some nice fish to camps for sale. Was little Mexican hurt near our camp. Plenty of cottonwood and Mesquite timber on the road. Roads are extremely dusty.

July 15th: Had shower of rain last night—makes traveling more pleasant. Started before breakfast, traveled five miles and stopped near the river. Will now get breakfast. We have fish for breakfast. Started near sundown—had not gone more than one-half mile when Mr. Coughram’s wagon axle broke—took his load in other wagons and fixed his so it would travel and made drive of about eight miles. Passed by Mexican village. There are good many Mexican huts along the road. Found no grass therefore had to go to another camping ground.

July 16th: Started before breakfast and passed by stage stand. Did not find very good grass. The men are now very busy fixing the wagon. We will not have much more grass until we get to El Paso—as we passed by one of the houses last night was brilliantly lighted. It looked very nice from the road, white man with Mexican wife was living there. We started at 2 o’clock, went io miles, camped just at dark.

July 17th: Had nice shower of rain last night. We traveled near the river. Sometimes in three steps of the water; banks are very low and sandy. In one place the river runs where the road once was; road very dusty and warm. Traveling for some days past Mexicans—came to camps most every day. Some of them make a very good appearance while others ought not to appear at all. Where we camped yesterday was stage stand and several Mexican huts. One of the Mexicans had large herd of goats and cattle. They do not care as to houses—just so they have shade. Traveled short distance—bought some onions, pears and apples from Mexican.

July 18th: Have very nice place to camp. Started early— made long drive, passed through three Mexican villages. The road wound so that it was some distance from the nlace we went in at to where we left town. Their corn and gardens have no fence around them and therefore our loose stock gave us much trouble. We had to travel until dark to get where we could camp. Had hard rain this evening—very muddy camping. Eleven miles from here to Franklin. We have seen many buggies pass with nice looking white men in them. There are high sand hills through this country, nothing for stock to eat but weeds.

July 19th: Started before breakfast, went in seven miles of Franklin—stopped and got breakfast—passed through Fort Bliss which is 15 miles from Socoro. Here is U.S. post and on short distance farther is Franklin. This is beautiful place—so many nice shade trees. Several white families living here. The town is near the bank of the river and just opposite this on the other side of the river is El Paso. So we stopped for some time in Franklin and purchased flour for the remainder of our journey. The merchants treated with wine and the children with candy. After making the necessary purchases we went one and one-half miles and camped at Mr. Van Poltersons. Here we were treated with great hospitality. He has 48 rooms. His wife is Indian. She is head of her tribe. They are very wealthy. They came to camps and we went to the house with them and they treated us with wine. He lives in a beautiful place near the river. We received letters from our friends in California—they write cheering news to us.

July 20th: We have had but little grass for our stock for several days. It is now nine miles to grass and water. We found very pretty place to camp and good grass. It is 95 miles from where we first struck the river to El Paso or Franklin. Total distance from Antonio to El Paso 654 miles. It is about 750 miles from McKinney to El Paso.

July 21 st: Still at the same camp. Have been washing and baking light bread.

July 22nd: Still at same place. Left the old camp this evening. It was not pretty place to camp. Too many bushes. The Mexicans stole one pair of cows from Jim Stewart and run them across the river. The boys went across after them but failed to find them.

July 23 rd: Started late in the evening and camped at a beautiful place with fine grass. It is 16 miles from here to El Paso. Made an early start this morning. Traveled until 12, stopped—rested a while and let the stock graze and ate supper. We then started and traveled by moonlight about 8 miles. Found very good grass.

July 24th: Started after breakfast and came to where Mexicans were living. They are very nice looking people—white as anybody. Us girls called in to see how the house looked, They gave us some apples to eat and were very kind. Their house so nice and clean inside; they have black Mexicans for servants. It is now 15 miles to where we cross the river. Got supper and traveled some distance—had moonlight to travel by. Camped in three miles of La Crusa, passed by an old fort. Some Mexicans were living there. The old fort looked very desolate.

July 25th: Passed through La Crusa [Las Cruces, N.M.], It is very pretty situation for a town but the buildings are not pretty. The church bell was ringing as we passed through and the Mexicans were crowding to the chapel; they were all dressed very nice, with large bright colored shawls over their head and shoulders. They were carrying their musical instruments with them to church. We bought some cabbages and onions here. We arrived at the crossing of the river about 10 o’clock. The train that left us are camped five miles on the other side of the river. There is two families on this side; their captain’s wife is very sick and could not cross the river, they forded the river. We intended crossing this evening, but alas, how little do we see of the future, it pains me to pen the incident. A young man that was with Uncle Stewart by the name of John Thomas accidently shot himself with his six-shooter; he was twirling it around and revolving it and it exploded. The bullet went on the right side through his breast and came out in his back on the same side. Oh! how it grieves me to think that anyone should happen to such an accident so far from home. He has not relatives in this train—has one brother in a train behind. Most of the men think his case hopeless, but I still hope. We have sent to town fora physician. The accident happened about 1 o’clock. He will have the assistance of our prayers. The captain’s wife is very sick this evening. Sad, sad facts. Our friend died this evening between sundown and dark. He suffered greatly while he lived.

July 26th: Have dressed him very nice and sent him to La Crusa and had his coffin made and grave dug. The corpse left camp at 11 o’clock. His brother that was in the back train came up in time to see him buried. He was buried at La Crusa. We have crossed the river and came up with the train that had left us. We had no bad luck in crossing. All forded it; stopped after dark—rested three hours—started, traveled all night; came to water this morning; tanks have been made here for the purpose of furnishing water to immigrants. They sell the water at 10 cents a drink. Has watered two trains and one beef herd today. Has made near $100.00. It is 18 miles from here to river and about 30 miles to water ahead which is Crook [Cooke] Canyon. They say that this is the most dangerous place that we will have to pass. We crossed the river three miles below La Missella [Mesilla, N.M.]

July 27th: Started late in the evening. Traveled until about3 o’clock; arrived near Fort Cummins [N.M.]. Here we find splended grass and water; it is called 35 miles from here to where we got the last water but we made good time and our stock did not suffer. Two large beef droves are camped here. Had nice shower of rain this evening which was very agreeable, for this soil is very dusty—no timber here—nothing but small bush to burn.

July 30th: Leave Fort Cummins this evening. Will drive through Crook’s Creek this evening. Did not travel very late but the road was rough. We have traveled from Fort Davis to Franklin with families and 20 men. From Franklin to La Crusa we had only three families. The others stopped to wait for their friends. Overtook the train that left us at Fort Davis. We did not join them at Cummins. Their train had to wait on account of sickness so five other wagons joined us and we went on. We now have 25 men. Dangerous road ahead.

July 31st: Are through the worst of the canyon and nothing has happened; camped at Membris [Mimbres] Creek. We left the town to our right as this is the best way. Membris is small, clear stream with cold springs along its banks. There is something over 7000 head of stock camped on this stream part going to California and some not so far. Is small train of immigrants camped here from Dano County, Texas; they traveled up the Pecos 300 miles and when they crossed they were attacked by 75 Indians. They lost one man who lived in California and had come after his friends. They have 600 head of beeves. The Indians wanted them—they have had a hard time.

August 1st: Left Membris this evening. We have five men. Traveled 10 miles most of the way after night. There was several men or Indians seen on side of the road; they left and we did not learn who they were. Every man had gun in hand for fight, but fortune favored and we had no fighting to do.

[August 2nd:] Will drive to water this morning. Did not find very much water here but enough to answer our purposes; rested a while; ate dinner and started on. We have 55 miles to go now without water for our stock. Camped tonight near the mountains, by no means a pretty place.

August 3rd: Passed an old fort—got some water to drink— plenty for the horses but none for the cattle.12

August 4th: Traveled last night—had beautiful road. This is a pretty valley. About 12 o’clock several Indians were seen on horseback. This frightened me some. No moonlight— nothing but starlight—how quiet. The train traveled tonight. The Indians did not molest us. Camped about 2 o’clock.

August 5th: Have reached the place for water, Stevens Creek, but have to dig out the spring, so all went to work and the stock got some water but not enough. All had plenty of water by 12 o’clock and we will leave this evening. Our cattle suffered some but none failed. It is 35 miles to the next water. Is a peak of mountains here 300 feet high called Stevens Peak. Stevens had a fight at this place some time ago and hence its name. Had beans and pie for dinner. We had cool, pleasant time to travel the road that was destitute of water.

August 6th: Good luck—we found water one mile from the peak and did not have to drive so far. We were glad to find good grass and plenty of water without going so far. The train that we left behind came up this evening. One of Dr. Beaves children died last night. It had whooping cough and chronic diarrhoea; have been two deaths in that train. Another babe died with same complaint.

August 7th: Quite a number of beeves have come up to this place for water—some of them do not look very well they have done without water so long. Made dry camp tonight.

August 8th: Will pass through Apache Pass today.13 There is fort and 300 soldiers here. The canyon is the deepest and longest we have passed through but the road is very good. Came just opposite the post and camped. Here is plenty of good water and very good grass. There is quite a number of graves here most of whom were killed by the Indians. They are digging gold here. They suppose that there are very rich mines here.

August 9th: Started very early this morning. Oh, what a rough road we came over this morning. Coming out of the canyon it seemed as if we would never get to the top of the mountain. We gained it at last and then had a nice road and beautiful valley—such nice green grass. There has been a great deal of rain here for the last few days. We started before breakfast and have now stopped to get dinner. It has rained very hard. How glad I will be when we get to Tucson—it is 110 miles from Apache Pass to Tucson. Traveled until near sundown. Made dry camp. Started this morning and had a good road.

August 10th: This is beautiful country. If there was wood and water here this would be desirable place to live. Arrived at Sulphur Springs14 about 11 o’clock. Will water here and drive on. It is 25 miles from Apache Pass to Sulphur Springs where we camped last night. There was no wood at all here but we found surplus plank enough to cook with. Started about 5 o’clock—drove 10 miles. Started after breakfast on nth—drove within four miles of the [San] Pedro River. Could go no farther after dark on account of the short canyon between there and the river. Arrived at the river in due time—the road was narrow and rough but short. Here we found good grass and water. Small mesquite for wood. The Pedro is small shallow stream. Sandy banks. There was beef drove camped here yesterday. Some of the men that were with the drove had a difficulty and a man was killed. I do not know his name nor any of the particulars. We see his clothes and his grave near our camp. We will stay here for a few days to recruit our stock. There is two beef droves camped here. Was two beeves killed yesterday by lightning during hard rain. It is 35 miles from here to Sulphur Springs.

August 13th: Moved our camp to a better place. The evening we moved it rained very hard and next morning where our old camp was covered two feet deep with water so we just moved in time. The river was overflowed. Three families with a beef drove have not crossed the river.

August 14th: Started this evening at 2 o’clock. Made nice drive—camped on high nice place—rained all night. I think it has rained on or in sight of us for two weeks. Passed through short canyon.

August 15th: Is still cloudy with every appearance of rain. Will start early this morning and make good drive as the road is hard and level. Went four miles from the river. Here we rested and got dinner. We then drove 10 miles. Camped in nice place—had plenty of wood and water. Stand with a number of soldiers stationed. The road is surrounded with mountains.

August 16th: Camped in one mile of Muscal15 Springs. Here the Anienza swamp set in. The road is muddy and bad. Crossed the River Cienaga several times. It was swimming yesterday but is not very deep today. It is three miles through this swamp. Had steep, hard hill to pull up this morning. Got through the swamp about 10 o’clock. Stopped to rest and get dinner. Thirty-one miles from San Pedro to Cienaga Creek. The Cienaga is small, swift-running stream with some cottonwood timber on its banks. We crossed it four times today. The bottom is gravelly and good crossing. Came over some more bad road this evening. The hills that we came over today have pulled our teams harder than any place that we have every crossed. Camped before sundown.

August 17th: Oh, what a hard rainfall last night and what vivid lightning from every point. Only one tent left standing so we had to dry our beds today and therefore we will not leave here before 12 o’clock. This is high dry place to camp. Fifteen miles from here to Tucson.

August 18th: Started after breakfast. Arrived at Tucson about 3 o’clock. Camped on east side of town. Did not find good water nor much grass. This country is thick with mesquite bushes. We will stay until morning. There is quite an excitement in town about a silver mine that has lately been discovered near this place.

August 19th: Passed through Tucson. Got some nice watermelons. This is a beautiful place; some nice houses here. Goods are much cheaper than I expected to find them. Groceries are dear. Received a letter from friends in California at this place. They are in fine spirits. I am getting impatient for our journey to come to an end-—yet it cheers me to think that every day finds us nearer our destination. It is 5.00 miles from here to the City of Los Angeles. Drove about eight miles from town. Found good grass and water; running stream and nice spring. Will stay here until morning. This creek is called Lon Creek. It is said to be the richest ever found. Sheep ranch here and few Mexican huts.

August 20th: Drove nine miles today, found good water but not much grass. It is 28 miles to the next camping place so we will travel tonight. The sun is now an hour high and they are fixing to start. The weather has been extremely warm for a few days past. The round cactus trees that grow here are quite a curiosity to one that never seen them before. These Mexicans will be very friendly but if they get a chance to steal they are sure to use it. Left camp at sundown, had good road and beautiful moonlight to travel by.

August 21 st: Came about seven miles last night. Found pond of water sufficient for our stock and some grass but not the best. Plenty of wood and plenty of place to camp. Remained here until late in the evening. Traveled until after midnight.

August 22nd: Camped at a high peak (called La Catcha)16 that can be seen 15 miles the other side of Tucson. It is 45 miles from here back to Tucson. There is pond of water here but our stock will not drink it. Farther there is more water said to be better than this. It can’t be worse. This is warm and cloudy morning. Found plenty of water and grass. Three Mexican wagons camped here. Two women with them. They said there is great danger from Apache Indians here. Three men were killed near here three weeks ago. There is high mountains on each side. Nine miles further will find us out of danger of Indians so we will travel tonight. Was hard rain ahead of us this evening so did not travel very late.

August 23rd: Did not turn our stock out of the corral as there is no grass here. We want to go to grass early. Traveled three miles and found some grass. Passed blue water wells, the water was cold and good but the grass was scarce and in bunches. Started at sundown and came to plenty of water and some grass better than what we had. There is stand at Blue Wells, some groceries here to sell but they are very dear.

August 24th: Are camped near another stand 12 miles from the Blue Wells. There was Lemore17 Indian here today. He had his face painted and long strings of beads in his ears. He was very friendly but all he wanted was a chance to steal our stock. We have found some good grass and plenty of rain water standing in ponds.

August 25th: Started late and come six miles and stopped. The days are very warm but the nights are pleasant so we lay by in the day time and travel at night. It is six miles from here to the river.

August 26th: There is no more grass here so we will go on to the river. Arrived at the river about 12 o’clock. Found some grass but it is short and salt grass so it is not good for our stock. There is a white man here. Says he will show us where there is good grass in the morning. This place is called Sacatone Village.18 Here is where you first strike the Gila River. This river is swift running stream—muddy—plenty of willow and cottonwood timber along this stream. Lemore Indians are thick here. How detestable they are—all the men riding and the women walking and carrying all the load.

August 27th: The men have found splendid grass one and one-half miles from camps on opposite side of the river so we will remain here until Sunday. We reached here on Wednesday. It is 36 miles from this place to La Catcha Canyon. We have found very little grass since we left La Catcha. We have very good well water to drink. The pond water down this river is more or less alkali. We will travel down this river 275 miles. The Indians are passing by here all the time. Some of them ride nice ponies. Most of the men ride and the women walk and carry the load. How detestable they are. I will be glad to get out of sight of them.

August 29th: Left Sacaton late in the evening. Traveled 11 miles. Passed many Indian huts. Camped in one mile of Lemore Village this morning. Is steam mill here; postoffice and huts all around. Came to Maricopa Wells before we had breakfast—distance of 12 miles. There is store here and two or three companies of soldiers. Oh, what warm weather. We are camped one mile from town. There is very good grass here—mostly salt grass. Pond water most of which is mixed with alkali.

August 31st: Is quite a pleasant wind blowing this evening and indications of rain. They are fixing to start. Will not get off from camps before sundown. We have to go 45 miles now without water so we will travel most all night. Maricopis Indians brought some melons and few roasting ears to camps today. They are an ignorant, silly looking people.

September 1st: Did not get to travel last night. Was a pony missing so we came one mile on the road west of town and camped. Here we found good grass and very good water. This is everything but a pretty place. It is suited only for Indians to live in. We will start about 3 o’clock this evening as it is cloudy and not very warm.

September 2nd: Had very pleasant time to drive and made good ride of it. We drove 20 miles, stopped three hours before day, rested and slept. Got breakfast and started. Drove about 10 miles, stopped to rest until the cool of evening. We have found no grass of any note since we left Maricopa Wells. We have nice shade to noon in today. We will drive to water tonight.

September 3rd: Did not get to water last night. Drove in three miles of Gila Bend—the watering place and as it was very late they concluded to wait until morning to drive to water. Arrived here very early. The stock had not suffered much. Is ranch here. Three American women living here. It is brushy, ugly place. There is no grass here but they tell us that there is plenty in three miles of this place. It is 45 miles from here to Maricopa Wells. This we came without water or grass.

September 4th: Left Gila Bend this evening. Drove five miles. Here is a good well—cold water. Several white men living here. We stayed here on account of some stock that we lost on the desert. The boys have gone to hunt them. There is some grass here. We have not seen any Indians since we left Maricopa Wells. I would not be sorry if I never did see another one.

September 5th: The road was very dusty last night. There has been much rain here lately. There is plenty of Mesquite and cottonwood timber here. They do not have any cold weather here. The gentleman that is living here is making preparations to make a crop. He intends planting in three weeks from now. He is prepared to irrigate. He started to California last year—got this far and both his daughters married and he stopped here. All the people that live here seem to have plenty of money. But money would be no inducement for me if I had to live here. Man and his wife that was in this train stopped here to stay a while if not all the time. Their anticipations of California are not so great as mine or they would never have stopped here.

September 6th: Several young men that were in trains behind passed by here this evening. They are going horseback. Found all the stock so we will leave here this evening. Left camps at sundown. Drove nine miles. Stopped for the night.

September 7th: Came to water in two miles. Found pretty place to camp and some grass. This place is called Kunion’s Station.19 Seventeen miles from Gila Bend. Mexicans live here. We have to use the river water. Our teams and stock in general look very well.

September 8th: Drove ten miles. Made dry camp. Found splendid grass—let the stock graze a while. We would have liked to stay here day and night with this good grass but there was no water there; so we came on to Oatman Flat. We took right hand road and came to Pike Road. Is just room between the river and the mountains. For the road has been dug in the side so as to be safe. Is 14 miles nearer than the one that went around the mountain and then that road is very rough and hard on oxens feet. Had to pay light toll. This is the warmest place that I ever saw.

September 9th: Started from the station at sundown and I think that we had the worst road that we have ever had. But it was not very long. We came six miles and found plenty of good grass but our stock did not have much benefit of it there being no water here.

September 10th: Started early and came to Berk’s Station. Here we found plenty of good water and very good grass; white people living here. Twenty-eighth of July this station was burned. Caught by matches; three times it has been burned and twice destroyed by water from the mountain and river. The weather is so warm here that matches kept in the shade will catch on fire unless kept in something that will not burn.

September 11th: Left Berk’s station in the evening. Is another stand in five miles of this place. We did not stop there, we came on to Stanwick’s Station very early this morning. Stanwick’s is pretty place. Gentleman keeping batch here.

September 12th: Did not leave here last evening as some of the stock were missing so will leave this morning.

September 13th: Made a drive of 11 miles, found good grass and plenty of water. Is no station here. Passed an old station yesterday but it was uninhabited.

September 14th: Started late. Passed Texas Hill Station, 16 miles from Stanwick’s. Very good well water here. Filled up some kegs with water then drove five miles to grass. Pond of salt water here. Will stay here until morning. Got late start again. Came five miles to river, nooned here. Was no grass here at all.

September 15th: Started in the evening. Passed Mohawk Station in the night. Had very good road. Seventeen miles from Texas Hill to Mohawk Station. How glad I will be when we cross the Colorado River.

September 16th: Had heavy sand road to pass over today. We made dry camp last night. Arrived at Antelope Station about 11 o’clock in the morning. We are camped near the river but there is no grass here; is some grass two miles from here. Will have to drive the stock to it. There is mountain just opposite the station that is 300 feet high. Nothing growing on it at all.

September 18th: Intended starting last evening but the cattle got away and we did not get all of them so we are still at the same camp. The weather here has not been so warm for the last few days. Stationers all keep whiskey along here. Four men that belong to the beef herd were so much intoxicated today that they knew not what they were doing. They charged and pitched around a while. Shot at the station keeper and then left without doing any damage to any one. Sixteen miles from Mohawk to Antelope.

September 19th: Found all but three of our stock so we will leave Antelope Station this evening. Started before sundown. Went to Mission Camp tonight, 16 miles. The night was pleasant for traveling but the road was extremely dusty. This morning was like winter and I am so glad to see the change.

September 20th: Have to drive to grass this morning, that is if we can find any. Drove three miles, found some grass and cane for the cattle to graze on. There are wagons passing the road all the time hauling to the stations, we have deep heavy sand most of the time since we first struck the river and will continue so for 75 or 100 miles farther.

September 21st: Drove in two miles of Gila City last night. An old stand here. Passed Gila City today and came six miles farther. Found no grass. Bought hay to feed the cattle. We have lost good many cattle now and I fear we will loose many more as grass is scarce. Nothing at Gila City but one station, it is now 14 miles to Fort Yuma.

September 22nd: Drove in one mile of Fort Yuma last night. Had splendid road. Passed through the town today. The fort is beautiful place on high hill that commands full view of Arizona City. The fort is on the other side of the river and Arizona City on this side. Goods and groceries are cheap here. Very few pretty houses in the city. Disappointed several times when I got here. First we got no letters, then we are expecting to get vegetables when we got here but there are very few here. They are expecting three boats every day that will bring vegetables.

September 24th: Camped six miles from town at the crossing on the Colorado. Found some grass and cane for the stock. Very pretty place to camp. The Colorado is 150 yards wide. I suppose muddy but it is good tasted. There is no timber on the banks here. Very thick brush and high weeds all the way from town down here. Boat come up but brought no vegetables. The Gila passes into this river just at Fort Yuma. The mosquitoes are very bad here. We next have a desert of 40 miles without grass, so will stay here several days. Our stock did not look very well when we got here. I do regret having to lay by when we get so near. We have traveled down the Gila river228 miles. It is320 miles from Arizona City to Tuscon and is 250 miles from Arizona to Los Angeles.

September 29th: We have now been camped at this place eight days and have had so much trouble with the stock since we came here. The brush and weeds are so thick that they cannot ride through it. We will cross the river today. There has been Indians here every day since we came to this place. They bring little melons here to sell.

October 1st: We are in California at last. Is stand here and American man and lady lives here. This side of the river looks no better than the other, nothing but mountains and sand and brush. Some of our stock that we could not get that we will have to leave on the other side of the river as there is no grass here to graze on. There was a death in camps on the 30th. An infant 10 months old of Mrs. Collins. They are from Arkansas. They buried it near the station under a tree. Poor little child. It is now at rest. We bought some nice apples, onions and potatoes from a gentleman that is just from Los Angeles. He gives favorable reports of that country.

October 2nd: Left the river about 10 o’clock. We will have no more grass of any consequence for 40 miles. Our feed for our cattle cost $30 what time we stayed at the station. We drove six miles and came to Mexican ranch, here they told us that if we would drive six miles that we would find grass. So taking their word with Indians for pilot we drove about four miles and found some grass and water but it was so boggy that we could not have watered and the Indians were numerous. What could we do. Nothing but turn around and go back to the Mexican ranch. So we started back about one hour high and made the trip safe back not long after dark. Here we bought green corn to feed with. Had some water-melons today. There is sand hill after hill to be seen in the west with nothing at all on them. We are most ready to start again. We will travel tonight. The little Indian huts are thick. I will be glad when I get out of sight of them. They burn all their dead and if they chance to have a horse it has to be burned alive when the body is burned. They eat the horse and reserve a portion for the spirit that is gone when it returns.

October 3rd: We came to a station 14 miles last night. Had heavy sand road most of the way. This is the most destitute country of grass that we have ever traveled over. We will not feed at this stand but will start in the morning and go to the next one—distance of 17 miles.

October 4th: Sabbath Morning: We traveled most all day, reached the stand in the evening finding plenty of barley and hay to feed with. Remained here until next evening. We went to the next stand that night. Fed with hay and barley.

October 5th: We reached new river. This river is caused by the rise of the Colorado. It is not running now but there is ponds that is sufficient for the stock. There is well here but the water is not good. Here we found plenty of mesquite beans and dry grass for the stock. The first they have had since we crossed the river. There are few goods and groceries here. It is 45 miles to crossing of the river. We have found plenty of water on the desert.

October 6th: Will leave this evening. Fifteen miles to the next stand. Here we find dry grass and beans for the stock. Plenty of Lagoon water. Some better than the last we had. Remained here two days. Leave this evening.

October 8th: We now have 30 miles to go without water. We will go 13 miles tonight. There we will find some grass.

October 9th: Had heavy sand road last night. Got here about midnight. Will start at 3 o’clock this evening and drive to water tonight. The nights are very cool and pleasant. We will soon be across the much dreaded desert and we found the road much better than we expected. If you ever do travel this road you need not believe half that the people tell you.

October 10th: Reached the water about 3 o’clock in the morning but very little grass here. Bought hay to feed with. Beautiful little running branch here. Groceries to sell here. It is eighteen miles to grass. We will go there tonight.

October 11th: Arrived at the stand just after sunrise. Traveled all night. Found good grass and plenty water. One American family living here. Twenty-five miles across the mountains. There is settlement of Americans, first settlement that you come to. It is on the San Diego road.

October 13th: Have rested two days. We will leave for the next stand this morning, 18 miles from this place. We will go there tonight. They say that we will have no more bad water to use. I think we have used our full share of it and we are now done with the dust and sand. There has not been any rain here this summer.

October 19th: I have not opened my journal for some time and have nothing to give as a reason neglecting my writing. We had pleasant camp at St. Philippi [San Felipe] with plenty of grass and water but we had some rough road to pass over before we got there. Stayed there two days. It is small valley. Mountains all around. Heavy timber on the sides and top of the mountains. Mexican family living. Some white men—groceries and few goods. Fifteen miles from here to Warner’s ranch.20 Is very pretty place. We have had plenty of potatoes and cabbages since we came here. This is the best grass that we have had for 300 miles. We have also had some large apples and delicious grapes. Had few sprinkles of rain this morning and it is still cloudy. Left Warner’s ranch after dinner. Drove nine miles and found fine camping place. Passed through beautiful valley.

October 21st: Camped by a nice little stream of water—had very good grass.

October 24th: We have been camped two nights and two days near a stand called Oak Grove. Here we have splendid grass but not very good water. Two of the boys have gone on horseback to the Monte21 to make a selection of places. We shall leave this morning. Are expected to meet our friends. Are camped tonight in a pretty place. Two families of Negroes live here. We got plenty of nice cabbage. The largest heads of cabbage—very cheap. These Negroes are wealthy. The boys met our friends and one of them came back. Met our sister and brother today. Oh, how glad we all are to meet again.

1Pilot Point in Denton Co., Texas, was named for a high ridge nearby that can be seen for some distance. The townsite had been platted in 1853. There is a big grove of post oak timber on the ridge that extends into the prairie. Fred Tarpley, 1001 Texas Place Names (Austin, 1980), p. 163.

2A compact description of this feature is to be found in Albert Pike’s Prose Sketches and Poems written in 1834, “These Cross Timbers are a belt of timber, extending from the Canadian River, or a little further north, to an unknown distance south of Red River. The belt is in width from fifteen to fifty miles, composed of black-jack and post oak, with a thick layer of undergrowth of small bushy oak and briers, in places absolutely impervious.” We have used the updated edition edited by David J. Weber (A lbuquerque, 1967), p. 8. See also the Letter of Louisiana Strentzel, in Covered IVagon Women, Volume I, p. 251, footnote 2.

3The Tonkawa Indians were a small nomadic tribe in central Texas. They were later removed to Oklahoma, where 40–50 individuals live today.

4She had a difficult time spelling of Fort Chadhourne. In this one entry she renders it in two ways.

5Present San Angelo.

6For the “Buffalo Soldiers ” see Shackleford Diary, in this volume, 1868, footnote 20, May 25.

7This would have been Centralia Station, which has erroneously been referred to as a Butter field Station. The Conkling ssuggest that it was built by F.C. Taylor in about 1870–71. Harriet Bunyard’s reference to it here would suggest that the Conklings were wrong, that Centralia Station was alive and serving the public in 1868. Conklin g, op. cit. Volume I, p. 362.

8Ruth Shackleford calls this Gorilla Station. It was on this day that the two diarists who were traveling the Butterfield route passed each other. Ruth Shackleford was traveling from west to east; Harriet Bunyard was moving from east to west. Neither knew of the proximity of the other.

9According to the Conklings, Wild Rose Pass is a mere three miles in length but is so narrow in some stretches that there is scarcely room enough for a road along the creek banks. The banks tower up on either hand nearly 1200 feet above the creek bed. They add, “No traveller could fail to be impressed by the rugged grandeur of Wild Rose Pass.” Op. at II, pp. 25–26.

10According to the Conklings the name came from the discovery of a body of a dead man at the foot of a bold rocky bluff. They add, “In spite of the sinister sounding name, it would be difficult to find a lovelier or more romantic location.” Ibid. p. 33.

l1This station was regarded as the best watering place between Limpia and the Rio Grande. Ibid., p. 34.

l2This would be Cow Spring or Ojo de la Vaca in Luna County, New Mexico. This spring was at the confluence of all the early roads that traveled east and west and north and south. Ibid., p. 122.

l3This is a narrow passage between Dos Cabezas and Chirieahua mountains. It was used generally by travelers through southern Arizona. A community by that name was aborning and a post office established on December 1, 1866. The name was changed to Fort Bowie in 1880. Will C. Barnes, Arizona Place Names (Tucson, 1988) pp. 23, 59.

l4This was the site of two springs impregnated with sulphur. In spite of the presence of the chemical this was a favorite stopping place because of fine grazing. Ibid., p. 429.

15Mescal is a Spanish term for the agave plant. Ibid., p. 272

16Picacho is a high mountain in Pinal County. The name means “peak” or “point.” It is sometimes called Saddle Mountain. Ibid., p. 330.

17Here we face the difficulty when an English-speaking American tries to communicate with an Indian. Paul H. Ezell says that the Pima Indians of the Gila River area had special names for their separate hands. He quotes Franciscan fathers who had labored among the Pima as listing these names, two of them being Comari and Bamori. It is undoubtedly one of these that Harriet Bunyard renders as “Lemore.” “The Hispanic Acculturation of the Gila River Pimas,” American Anthropologist, LXIII, No. 5, Part 2 (October 1961), p. 115.

18Sacaton was a very old Indian settlement on the Gila, now the seat of the Pima and Ma ricop a Indian Agency. It had been made headquarters for the military distr ict of A rizon a in 1867. Barnes, op. (it., p. 372.

19This was her mis-spelling of Kinyon’s Station which was named for Marcus L. Kinyon, a director of the Butterfield Company in 1859. It had previous ly been called Murderer’s Grave. The reason is told by the Conklings: In 1856 a young man had killed his guardian at this place. A newly arrived wagon train drew up just in time to observe the killing and “meted out summary punishment of the crime by executing the young assassin on the spo t.” Vol. II, op. cit., p. 174.

20See footnote 2 to Ruth Shackleford’s 1868 diary, herein April 15, for information about Warner’s Ranch.

21Monte was the town name that would later be changed to El Monte, which is Spanish for “ thicket.” Erwin G. Gudde, Californai Place Names (Berkeley, 1969), p. 101.