Transport
Getting there
Central Asia’s main hubs are Almaty (Kazakhstan), Tashkent (Uzbekistan), Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) and Karachi (Pakistan). Although there are some direct flights from Western Europe, many stop over at Moscow, Istanbul or Dubai en route. There are few direct transatlantic flights to the region, so a transfer is necessary in London, Istanbul, Moscow or Dubai. It is possible to reach Central Asia from the US West Coast by flying west via Tokyo or Seoul. The best approach for travellers from Australasia is via Bangkok.
Departure taxes
With the exception of Afghanistan, departure taxes are included in the price of the air ticket. Passengers flying from Kabul airport will be charged a departure tax of AFN10 for domestic flights and AFN20 for international flights.
Kyrgyzstan
Bishkek is close enough to Almaty, in Kazakhstan, to use it as a gateway, but the Kyrgyz capital has direct flights to Moscow with Aeroflot and to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines. KLM provides a free transport service to Bishkek for its Almaty-bound flights. The national carrier, Air Kyrgyzstan, flies to ten destinations, which include Urumqi, Moscow, and Tashkent. China Southern Airlines flies to Urumqi, which is useful if you are connecting to other destinations in China.
Tajikistan
Dushanbe has few connections outside Central Asia other than regular flights to Moscow. Tajik Air and private Somon Air airlines fly to Dushanbe from St Petersburg, and these sometimes connect with London flights. It may be more convenient to take a regional flight from Bishkek or Tashkent. The national carrier, Tajik Air, currently flies to 14 destinations, including Urumqi, Delhi and Tehran, but its poor safety record prevents it flying to Europe.
Uzbekistan
Tashkent is reasonably well connected. Uzbekistan Airways has flights to European destinations that include London, Rome, Frankfurt and Istanbul, as well as various Asian destinations.
Kazakhstan
Almaty has regular flights to Istanbul, Frankfurt and Amsterdam with Lufthansa, KLM and Turkish Airlines. The Kazakhstan national carrier Air Astana also flies direct from Astana to Paris and from Almaty to Asian destinations including Beijing, Delhi, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Seoul. Air Arabia links Almaty with Sharjah (UAE) twice a week and China Southern flies to and from Urumqi, in Xinjiang, most days of the week.
Pakistan
Most flights arrive at Karachi. There are also direct flights from London to Lahore. Emirates, Gulf Air and Etihad Airways fly from London to a variety of destinations in Pakistan via Dubai, Bahrain, Doha and Abu Dhabi.
Afghanistan
The refurbished Kabul International Airport is the main way of getting in and out of Afghanistan, and there are a surprising number of flights each day, including to neighbouring capitals. Ariana, the national carrier, flies to Moscow, Istanbul, Ankara and Dubai, but for most international connections you need to fly via Dubai, from where there are several flights a day to Kabul.
Turkmenistan
The brand new ‘Oguz Khan’ terminal at Ashgabat airport is shaped like a giant winged bird and is the largest in Central Asia. Turkmenistan Airlines has flights to Paris, Frankfurt, London, Birmingham and other Central Asian capitals. You can travel to and from Europe/USA via Baku with Lufthansa/United, and Turkish Airlines connect most places through Istanbul. Belavia connects with Minsk, S7 with Moscow daily and FlyDubai to Dubai.
By bus
International bus routes connect Kazakhstan with Xinjiang province in China. A daily morning bus service runs in both directions between Yining (Ili), in China, and Almaty, in Kazakhstan, crossing at Khorgos. This takes 10–12 hours, including
a minimum of two hours at the border where luggage has to be unloaded and X-rayed. It is also possible to take an overnight sleeper bus to the Khorgos border from Urumqi, cross on foot and then pick up Almaty-bound transport on the other side.
To reach Kyrgyzstan from China by bus there is just one option, via the Irkeshtam Pass. This route is fairly straightforward, as there is an overnight bus service between Kashgar in Xinjiang and Osh in southern Kyrgyzstan. However, timetables are sporadic, and the bus runs infrequently during the winter months. The journey takes around 18 hours as long as there are no breakdowns or delays at the border. To cross the 3,752-metre (12,381-ft) Torugart Pass further north requires the hire of private transport, as foreigners are not allowed to use the public bus that runs between Kashgar and Naryn. Tour agencies in Kashgar can arrange Chinese transport as far as the pass and for a Kyrgyz vehicle to be waiting on the other side for onward travel to Naryn.
There is a through service between Kashgar in China and Gilgit in Pakistan along the Karakoram Highway, via the Khunjerab Pass. This is open from 1 May to 31 October for groups and to 15 November for individual tourists. It takes about five hours to travel from Tashkurgan (the last town in China) to Sost (the first village in Pakistan) – not including the time taken for the formalities at the border. Bus, van and jeep services from Tashkurgan to Sost are run by the PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation) and NATCO (Northern Areas Transport Corporation).
There is a direct daily bus service between Mashhad in Iran and Herat in Afghanistan, which takes about seven hours. There are no cross-border bus services entering or leaving Turkmenistan.
By car
For the experienced and strong-stomached motorist, driving to Central Asia can be a rewarding challenge. There are four main overland routes to reach Central Asia. Crossing Russia, motorists require both a visa and a “Green Card”, which is proof of motor insurance. This costs about $110 if purchased at the border but is cheaper bought in advance. An international driving permit and translations of your documents into Russian will speed up any encounters with traffic police or border officials. Driving from Moscow to the Kazakh border takes two days (more if you plan to enter Kazakhstan further east) and four border crossings are open: those at Uralsk, near Kostanai, at Petropavl and at Omsk.
Approaching from the southwest, a carnet de passage is required for both Turkey and Iran. The cost of the carnet is dependent on the value of your vehicle, and the fee is non-refundable. UK nationals should request a carnet from the RAC (www.rac.co.uk), and other nationalities can get one from the equivalent motoring club in their country of residence. The Iranian border with Turkmenistan is open between Mashhad and Ashgabat, and, for those unable or unwilling to pass through Iran, an alternative route exists from eastern Turkey through the Caucasus and by boat across the Caspian Sea, entering either into Turkmenbashi in Turkmenistan or Aktau in Kazakhstan. The ferry from Baku (Azerbaijan) to either destination is unscheduled, but departures take place approximately twice a week. It is not possible to make a reservation in advance as vehicles and passengers take lower priority than cargo. Sailings typically take 14–16 hours and cabins are allocated on a first-come-first-served basis.
Driving into Central Asia from China is challenging and expensive. Although a carnet is not necessary, you must apply for a foreign vehicle permit in addition to your visa. You will also require an official guide or escort for the duration of your trip, and must pay not only his salary but also his transport (if there is no space in your own vehicle) and accommodation. Allow at least $50 a day. If your visa application is accepted but your vehicle permit is declined, it is sometimes possible to arrange to ship your vehicle to the border as “goods in transit”. This is, however, time-consuming and costly as you must travel separately from your vehicle. The main crossing from China into Kazakhstan is Khorgos near Almaty, and there are also open borders further north at Bakhty and Maikapshagai. The Irkeshtam and Torugart Passes both permit foreign tourists to enter Kyrgyzstan by private vehicle, though resolving red tape at the latter can take as much as eight hours. China’s border crossing with Tajikistan, although a standard international crossing since 2014, is currently not open to foreigners .
Afghanistan
Motorists require a Ministry of Foreign Affairs vehicle import permit from an Afghan consulate ($100). An additional $100 may also be payable at the border for a Ministry of Finance vehicle permit. The quality of roads in Afghanistan is extremely poor, meaning that driving speeds rarely exceed 20km/h (12mph) away from highways. Motorists can enter Afghanistan from Tajikistan at Ishkashim, or from Uzbekistan at Termiz. The road into Iran via Herat is also open though less secure.
Pakistan
Motorists must have a valid carnet or pay import duty. The Khunjerab Pass into China is closed in winter but a relatively straightforward drive from April through October. It is not advisable to enter Afghanistan or Iran from Pakistan without a police escort.
Kyrgyzstan
No permit or import duty is payable. There is, theoretically, a three-month import period for foreign vehicles, after which you must get foreign plates, but in practice this is usually overlooked. The main border with Kazakhstan is at Kordai and it is also possible to enter past Taraz. Sary Tash serves as the main entry point when driving to Tajikistan and, when open, Dostlyk is the main border crossing with Uzbekistan.
Kazakhstan
No permit or import duty is payable. A Russian translation of vehicle documents is highly advisable. Expect a thorough vehicle check by customs. Allow at least four days to drive north to south across Kazakhstan. Failure to present all vehicle documents on request by the police may result in a fine.
Uzbekistan
No permit or import duty is required, but expect to pass through quarantine as well as customs and immigration. Until recently, the only border with Kazakhstan officially open to foreigners was Shymkent. This appears to have changed, with the lorry crossing at Ahay also open to foreign cars, but this may not be permanent. The land borders with Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan may be shut without warning. Fuel shortages are common. When leaving Uzbekistan, motorists must get an exit stamp costing $4.
Tajikistan
Motorists pay a temporary import fee on arrival. The exact cost seems to be dependent on the customs official in charge, but is approximately $50. You must keep this receipt or you will be charged again on departure. There is a $10 vehicle exit fee. Fuel shortages are common and it is almost impossible to get spare vehicle parts unless you are driving a Toyota. Road conditions are exceptionally poor, as is the standard of driving.
Turkmenistan
Importing anything into the country is not easy, especially cars. As well as all paperwork, permits and large import fees, you will need liability insurance, as the green international insurance card is not valid. There will also be a tax to be paid at the border for estimated fuel used inside the country to compensate for the subsidised fuel prices. Most rural roads are in a terrible condition. Dark coloured cars are frowned-upon, especially in the ‘white city’ of Ashgabat.
By train
Train is an interesting way to reach Central Asia for those happy to contemplate the Kazakh steppe for days on end. Coming from the west, Moscow is the main departure point, and Russian and Kazakhstan transit visas are necessary.
The most convenient train is probably the Moscow–Almaty service (train number 8, Kazakhstan), which leaves Moscow every other day and takes approximately 77 hours to reach the Kazakh capital. This route comes via Orenburg in Russia, and Aralsk and Kyzylorda in Kazakhstan. A longer route runs down to Almaty from the Trans-Siberian route to the north at Novosibirsk.
The twice-weekly Moscow–Bishkek direct service (train number 18, Kirgizia) follows the same route through Kazakhstan and takes around 74 hours.
Tashkent is best reached on the thrice-weekly train number 6 (Uzbekistan), which takes a branch line south of the main Moscow–Almaty route just west of Shymkent. The overall journey time is 69 hours.
Train classes are based on the Russian system in which spalny vagon is a sleeping compartment with two beds, kupe is a four-berth sleeping carriage and platskartny an open-plan carriage with dormitory-style bunks. Kupe is adequate in most circumstances. Precise train times and days of running can be found at www.russiantrains.com.
Coming from China, a twice-weekly “Zhibek Zholy” (Silk Road) service runs between Urumqi and Almaty, which takes around 36 hours, including a lengthy bogie-changing procedure at the Kazakh frontier in which the carriages are winched above the tracks. A daily train service links Urumqi with Beijing. There is a monthly express train from Zahidan in Iran to Quetta (via Taftan) in Pakistan, which takes 30 hours or more. Passenger train services from Moscow to Tashkent weave across the Turkmenistan border but are essentially ‘sealed units’ as nobody is allowed on or off.
Getting around
By air
Given the often poor road conditions, air travel in the region is a viable option, especially for long distances.
Kyrgyzstan has connections that link the capital with a handful of towns with Air Kyrgyzstan (www.air.kg) and Air Bishkek. Most useful is the regular service between Bishkek and Osh, which reduces a 14-hour road journey to less than an hour and costs little more than a place in a shared taxi. Somon Air (www.somonair.com) has a service betwwen Dushanbe and Khojand in the north of the country. See more ar http://caravanistan.com/transport/flights/khorog-dushanbe.
Uzbekistan has a fairly efficient national network with Uzbekistan Airways (www.uzairways.com) that stretches across the country from Tashkent to far-flung destinations like Nukus and Urgench.
Kazakhstan is well covered by Air Astana (www.airastana.com), whose network centres on Almaty, and to a lesser extent, Astana, which link the main cities with domestic destinations like Aralsk and Semey. Scat Air (www.scat.kz) also operates domestic flights. The price of some airline tickets is subsidised by the Kazakh government.
Flying within Pakistan is a quick way of getting around the country, and is often very cheap. Shorter journeys are subsidised by the government, so a flight to Gilgit on the Karakoram Highway from Islamabad is not that much more expensive than taking the bus. PIA (www.piac.com.pk) produces a timetable listing all its flights. Apart from PIA, there are several other internal air services, notably Air Blue (www.airblue.com), Aero Asia, Bhoja Air and Shaheen Air (www.shaheenair.com), though these are not as extensive as PIA’s.
Afghanistan’s two airlines – Ariana (www.flyariana.com) and Kam Air (www.kamair.com) – offer domestic services from Kabul to major cities, including Herat, Mazar-i-Sharif (there are also connections between these two cities) and Bamiyan. Many foreign embassies ban their staff from flying on Afghan airlines owing to safety concerns. The UN operates more reliable flights and, although primarily for NGO staff, remaining seats may be sold to other travellers.
Turkmenistan Airlines has a modern fleet, handling all internal flights from Ashgabat to five destinations – Mary, Dashoguz, Turkmenabat, Turkmenbashi and Balkanabat. Flights are heavily subsidised and are great value.
By train
Central Asia’s rail network is a Soviet legacy and operates in much the same way as the current Russian system. Rail is a useful means of getting around in Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, but hardly registers as an option in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. There is no functioning passenger railway in Afghanistan.
Kyrgyzstan has almost no domestic services, apart from very slow holiday services between Bishkek and Kaindi, and Tokmok and Balykchy on Lake Issyk-Kul. Tajikistan’s Dushanbe–Moscow service no longer runs, although irregular trains link Khojand with Samarkand, and Dushanbe with Termiz in southern Uzbekistan. There is also a limited rail service from Dushanbe to Kurganteppa and Kulyab in the south.
Uzbekistan has a reliable rail service that links Bukhara and Samarkand with Tashkent – slower than shared taxis but cheaper and more comfortable. The website www.seat61.com lists the current timetables for Uzbekistan’s internal rail routes as well as international services. In Kazakhstan, where vast distances separate the major centres, overnight train travel is the only real alternative to flying, and the rail services that link Almaty and Astana with Moscow are useful for long-distance east–west or north–south travel.
The trains in Pakistan are slow but convenient, serving the major towns and sites of interest.
Rail services in Turkmenistan are unpredictable, with varying quality and timetables. Useful routes across the country run from the Caspian Sea to the Uzbek border and from Ashgabat to Dashoguz in the north.
By bus
Buses vary enormously in Central Asia, ranging from comfortable long-distance coaches to decrepit regional services. The former mostly run between larger urban centres and the latter between country towns and villages, where they tend to stop on demand. Long-distance bus stations are commonly located some distance from the town centre and often require a minibus or taxi ride to reach them. Long-distance tickets are usually bought from the station office or an agent prior to travel, whereas fares are normally collected by a conductor on local buses. On long-distance buses luggage is normally stored in the baggage compartment or on a roof-rack, while on local services it usually has to go inside the vehicle along with the sacks of vegetables.
Kyrgyzstan has a limited number of buses running long-distance routes from the capital, mostly east to Lake Issyk-Kul, and a fair number of local services connecting Bishkek with the towns of the Chuy Valley. Those buses donated by China Aid (clearly marked with the donor’s logo) tend to be the newest and therefore most reliable. Most people travel by minibus or shared taxi. There are no bus services between Bishkek and Osh because of tunnel restrictions at the Töo-Ashuu Pass. In the south of the country there are limited bus services for destinations like Batken and Kyzyl-Kiya, but nothing that goes beyond the border into Uzbekistan.
Tajikistan has a limited bus service that mostly operates between Dushanbe and the south of the country, though the service is at best erratic. Given the mountainous terrain and terrible roads, shared taxis and minibuses are a more practical means of transport, though breakdowns and blown tires are an inevitability.
In Uzbekistan, the state bus service is in decline, and many routes have been taken over by private bus companies that offer a more comfortable service. These usually do not leave until full, which can mean a lengthy wait. Shared taxis are a swifter option, particularly if you are prepared to pay for un-filled seats to get the vehicle moving.
Long-distance, inter-city buses are most common in eastern Kazakhstan, particularly between Almaty, Astana and the cities of the southeast. Western Kazakhstan generally relies more on rail services.
In Pakistan, private operators run regular air conditioned coach services between towns and cities, often referred to as “big buses”. Daewoo Intercity is highly recommended. NATCO (Northern Areas Transport Company) runs more decrepit buses up the Karakoram Highway (KKH) to Gilgit and beyond. A good new addition to Northern Areas transport is the Silk Route Bus Service, air conditioned coaches that ply direct routes between Rawalpindi and Kashgar via Hunza.
There are no organised bus companies in Afghanistan, rather a collection of small operators with mainly minibuses plying the routes between cities.
There is a good network of long-distance buses in Turkmenistan between the major towns and cities. It is difficult to use these for visiting the major sites, but they are great value.
By minibus
Minibuses – usually referred to as marshrutki or marshrutnoe – run on fixed routes throughout Central Asia, often following a bus route but providing a faster service at a slightly higher price. Other routes ply where bus services do not exist at all. Minibuses usually leave when full, and it can be hard to pick them up midway between destinations because of lack of seats. They usually operate from outside bus stations but may sometimes have a separate stand. The minibuses typically have a poor safety record due to a combination of lack of maintenance and bad driving, so try to get a seat rather than standing if you have the option.
By taxi
Taxis fall into two categories: private taxis hired for a specific journey and shared taxis that run on fixed routes. With private taxis it is imperative that a price is agreed before setting off, as well as details regarding tolls to be paid and charges for waiting time. Long-distance private taxis are most useful in Kyrgyzstan, where costs are low and few alternatives exist to reach off-the-beaten-track destinations. Shared taxis are an important mode of transport throughout much of the region, especially in Uzbekistan. They run on regular routes between cities and leave when all seats are full. It is always possible to leave earlier by buying all of the remaining seats.
In Pakistan, Suzuki pick-ups, three-wheeled scooter rickshaws and private taxis are the most common transport options in towns.
Taxis are plentiful in and around the main towns and cities in Turkmenistan and are good value. Get a rough idea of the cost from a local first and bargain if necessary.
Border crossings
Very few bus services cross international boundaries in Central Asia, and so it is a matter of taking local transport to a border point, walking across and then looking for onward transport. See individual Places chapters for information on entering and leaving.
Driving
Self-drive car hire is available in some of the larger cities like Almaty, Tashkent and Islamabad, which have local agencies or international franchises. However, insurance may be difficult to arrange, and this, coupled with poor roads and erratic driving standards, is probably enough to put off most would-be drivers.
Hiring a vehicle with driver is an altogether better option. It does not cost that much more (with the exception of Tajikistan), and the driver, who will know the region and the road conditions, can sometimes also act as a guide. The Community Based Tourism (CBT) organisation in Kyrgyzstan can provide knowledgeable local drivers at a fixed per-kilometre rate.
In Afghanistan it is not possible to hire a car without also hiring a driver – Afghan roads are not for the faint-hearted anyway. Paved highways are a rarity, there are no road signs, few road rules, but plenty of police checkpoints. The Kabul–Kandahar–Herat road passes through Taliban country and is highly dangerous. Large hotels can usually offer cars with drivers, or contact tour operators in Kabul.
In Pakistan, cars with drivers can be hired from some larger hotels. Though more expensive, they may be worthwhile, as the drivers usually speak some English. Avis has offices in Karachi, Islamabad and Lahore (www.avis.com.pk) and Europcar has an office in Lahore and Karachi (www.europcar.com).
Hiring a car is forbidden in Turkmenistan, so the only option is a taxi for shorter trips, or to hire an agency car and driver for longer journeys.