1513 SOUTH 1500 EAST
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84105
(801) 486-1300
MIKEL TRAPP, OWNER
LOGEN CREW, CHEF
Salt Lake City hosts plenty of beautiful restaurants that identify neighborhoods. At the classy intersection of 15th and 15th, tucked away but standing proud alongside Caputo’s, the Paris, and the King’s English, there’s one such place that has been something of an anchor for the neighborhood for thirty years, Fresco Italian Cafe.
Walk down a brick path to a fairy tale–like vine-covered patio that leads inside Fresco where you’ll be pleased to find a small dining room serving classic Italian dishes in an anything-but-predictable way. What was once a home to a gas station and then a cafe known for its pot roast is now a small restaurant going thirty years strong.
Even in a dark room lit by candles and a fireplace with tables of white linen, this place somehow accomplishes accessibility—from the young diners saving the month’s entertainment funds for a night out to the professionals on a casual date.
Chef Logen Crew was born and raised in Utah at a high school that paved a path to his culinary future. He competed in chef competitions and was mentored by top local chefs (most notably Chef Dave Jones of Log Haven). In gratitude for guys like Dave, Logen now mentors and coaches the kids in the same program.
While most of the food at Fresco alters seasonally, there are a few staples like the Fresco Polenta appetizer (wild mushrooms, pomodoro, pecorino-rosemary pesto) and the Chocolate Almond Crema for dessert. If it’s fall you may see something like a sweet potato and chestnut ravioli topped with Brussels and Ricotta Salata. In the winter gnocchi topped with wild mushrooms may grace the menu.
No matter the season, Fresco serves up flavors worth savoring at a quiet table for a few hours with a perfect bottle of Italian wine.
(SERVES 4–6)
For the calamari:
1 pound fresh calamari
½ cup chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chili flakes
4 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste
Zest of 3 lemons
For the caper salsa verde:
8 ounces capers, rinsed
1 shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup chopped parsley
¼ cup chopped oregano
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Juice from the 3 zested lemons above
For the fregola sarda:
1 cup fregola sarda or Israeli couscous
Carrots, shaved for garnish
To prepare the calamari: Remove tentacles from the tube and set aside. Cut the calamari tube lengthwise and rinse out thoroughly. Remove any beaks or ink from the calamari tentacles and tube. If the tentacles are very large, cut in half. After the calamari is fully cleansed, rinse under cold water and then pat dry with paper towels until completely dry. Too much water on the squid will cause it to steam when cooking, which will potentially make the calamari rubbery. After the calamari is complete dry, mix with the rest of the ingredients and set aside to marinate.
Place a medium-sized sauté pan on very high heat. Once pan is very hot, put 1 cup of the marinated calamari into the pan. Make sure to give the squid a chance to sear before moving it around. After 2 minutes season squid with salt and a squeeze of lemon.
To prepare the salsa verde: Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender and pulse until fully mixed. Check seasoning. Add more salt and lemon juice if needed.
To prepare fregola sarda: Following package directions, cook fregola sarda or couscous until tender.
To assemble: In a small saucepan place 8 to 12 tablespoons salsa verde with 2 to 3 cups cooked fregola and sauté until ingredients are combined and hot. Spoon directly onto four to six plates. Portion squid over the fregola and serve immediately. Shaved carrots are a nice garnish if desired.
Note: Fregola sarda is an Italian pasta made with semolina dough that is rolled into tiny balls and toasted in the oven. You can find this pasta at Italian import stores or specialty markets. Israeli couscous is a good substitute.