SALT LAKE CITY CHEF’S TABLE

The oldest restaurant in Utah, Lamb’s Grill, takes the waves and trends of local dining in stride. Under new ownership with Frances Liong, the classic restaurant has gotten even classier and more accessible to Utah diners.

You’ll still find a place to hang your hat and coat at every booth. Red leather chairs that twist at the base welcome those hoping to dine at the counter. Art deco threaded mirrors give you a reflection of the past. You’re simply taken back in time when you dine at Lamb’s. Listen to Frank Sinatra’s “Fly Me to the Moon” while you sip a classic Manhattan cocktail and await Lamb’s Beef Bourguignon before you go to the theater.

Lamb’s originally opened on George Washington’s birthday in Logan, Utah, under the care of a Greek immigrant in 1919. George P. Lamb moved his restaurant to the business district of Salt Lake City in 1939. It resides there still, in the historic Herald building that once housed the Herald newspaper. You’ll still find a picture of George Washington in the main dining room, given to George Lamb by the mayor at the opening of the restaurant.

Braised lamb shanks, lentil soup, and rice pudding remain favorites at the restaurant. A few menu items have been added, like the new favorite of bacon-wrapped blue cheese–stuffed dates, and a few have been taken away, but regulars know the secrets to dining at Lamb’s. Though it’s not on the menu, you can still order sautéed calf liver and onion, a dish that to modern diners may not seem appetizing, but for those who have been dining at Lamb’s for years, it’s a favorite.

Generations dine at Lamb’s. What was once the hippest place to grab a bite to eat outside of the home has now become a spot where memories are recalled and made new. Recently an older gentleman embarrassingly waited in his car as his daughter walked into Lamb’s to pay back her dad’s $5 tab from when he dined and dashed decades ago. Grandparents take their grandchildren here for classic breakfasts, and anniversaries are celebrated. Memories.

“Lamb’s is not a stuffy place to come. There’s a lot of trendy places around town, but you can’t buy history,” says owner Frances Liong.

LAMB’S BEEF BOURGUIGNON

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces bacon, chopped

5 pounds chuck tail, cut into large cubes

2 large carrots, medium dice

3 stalks of celery, medium dice

4 ounces pearl onions

2 cloves garlic

2 cups red wine

2 ounces tomato paste

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon chopped dried rosemary

3 bay leaves

½ tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

¼ cup flour

1 cup demi-glace mix

Water to cover

Put oil and bacon into a large dutch oven or tall-sided, ovenproof sauté pan. Place on medium heat and cook until bacon is rendering off some fat, but not all the way cooked, about 4 minutes. Add the chuck tail cubes and sear, turning the heat up. After searing the meat (a couple of minutes on each side), remove it from the pan and set aside. Add carrots, celery, onions, and garlic. Sauté on medium heat for 10 minutes or until carrots are soft. Remove and set aside.

Deglaze the pan with red wine, using a wooden spoon to get any stuck pieces loose from the bottom of the pan. Add tomato paste, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Mix to combine. Return meat and veggies to the pan. Add flour, demi-glace, and water to cover the meat and veggies by 1 inch.

LAMB’S GRILL

LAMB’S BEEF BOURGUIGNON