SALT LAKE CITY CHEF’S TABLE

Hipsters unite at this South Salt Lake vegetarian diner, though it must also be noted that many outside of the fixed gear/tight jeans/tofu-eating crowd also enjoy the flavors of Vertical Diner. Leather booths and typical diner seating line the narrow cafe, along with eclectic art and funky tunes. Regulars sit in their habitual seats as the waiter brings out their favorites.

Even the waitresses love the food. One mentioned getting the job just so she could eat here more often. She also notes the house favorites are the jerk chicken, veggie burgers, and buffalo tigers, which are fried chicken tenders in spicy buffalo sauce. Of course, whenever chicken is mentioned, they really mean a chicken substitute. Proteins like tempeh, tofu, portobello mushrooms, and black beans make each dish especially hearty and filling. Desserts are a special treat here, and the Shoofly Cake is a favorite. Owner/chef Ian Brandt adapted his grandma’s special recipe for a vegetarian diet, so now his favorite family dessert is shared with many.

Vertical Diner serves breakfast and lunch, but you don’t have to wake up too early to enjoy breakfast foods here, as brunch is served all day and the diner doesn’t even open until 10 a.m. Brunch favorites include the biscuits and gravy with tempeh bacon, The King pancakes with bananas and peanut butter, and The Mountain: hash browns, tofu scramble, sausage, peppers, and onions topped with guacamole.

As for the building Vertical resides in, legend has it that a brickyard worker saved up bricks in his lunchbox every day so he could eventually build this diner. And that’s where the restaurant got its first name, the Lunch Box Cafe. From there, a couple of fishermen owned it, naming it appropriately after themselves, Chuck and Fred’s, and they placed a boat on top of the structure. This quirky pair would oftentimes leave a sign on their door noting that they were “Gone Fishin.” They passed the building to Jim Sorensen, who then handed it off to Ian. It’s now in good hands with Ian, thriving as a wallet-friendly spot for healthy versions of greasy spoon favorites.

VERTICAL DINER SHOOFLY CAKE

For the streusel:

½ cup shortening

4 cups unbleached flour

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups sugar

For the cake:

1½ cups water

½ cup sugar

½ cup molasses

1½ tablespoons white vinegar

1 tablespoon baking soda

In a mixing bowl use a dough blender or fork to cut chilled shortening into flour. Add salt and sugar to create a crumble.

In a pot (approximately 1 gallon size), bring water, sugar, molasses, and vinegar nearly to a boil. Just as the liquid reaches a boil, turn off heat, add baking soda, and stir really well, being careful not to allow the liquid to foam over.

Pour the liquid into the bottom of the greased cake pan. Sprinkle the crumble evenly over the liquid in the cake pan, allowing some to sink and some to float. Use your fingers to press about 75 percent of the streusel below the surface. You want to see one-quarter of the dry mix floating and three-quarters of the dry mix absorbed into the liquid.

Bake the cake for approximately 1 hour or until the cake is cooked through. Check after about 35 minutes (or when you think it is done) with a toothpick. If the toothpick comes out close to dry (with a few crumbs), then the cake is done.

Serve this moist molasses cake with vegan ice cream, soak it with a shot of espresso, or enjoy it with both.