CARPACCIO OF squab
with a Herb Salad and Pea Vinaigrette

CARPACCIO OF SQUAB

50 ml (1¾ fl oz) Madeira

salt and freshly ground pepper

½ x 5 g ( oz) gelatine leaf, softened in cold water

skinless breast fillets from 2 x 500 g (18 oz) squab

2 teaspoons non-scented cooking oil

PEA VINAIGRETTE

200 g (7 oz) podded fresh peas

120 ml (4 fl oz) Herb Oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped chervil and tarragon

salt and freshly ground pepper

HERB SALAD

handful frisée, golden leaves from the centre

1 cup chervil sprigs

¼ cup baby tarragon sprigs

splash extra-virgin olive oil

few drops lemon juice

fleur de sel

freshly ground white pepper

This is a version of the old classic, pigeon ‘n’ peas, Bécasse-style. It’s a dish of many textures: I love the contrast of the buttery-soft squab with the firm juicy peas and crisp salad leaves. And although it is a light salad, the flavours are vibrant and intense.

TO PREPARE THE SQUAB CARPACCIO, put the Madeira in a small saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze out the excess moisture from the softened gelatine and stir into the Madeira until completely dissolved. Strain through a chinois or a fine sieve and leave to cool to room temperature.

Lay the squab breasts on your work surface in pairs, skin side down. Brush each breast lightly with the Madeira and put one on top of another, aligning the thick end of one with the thin end of the other. Wrap each pair of squab breasts tightly in cling film, rolling gently to form 2 firm cylinders. Refrigerate for at least an hour to set.

Remove the squab from the refrigerator, remove the cling film and season. Heat a small frying pan until almost smoking. Add the oil then sear the squab portions all over until lightly coloured. Remove from the pan and wrap each pair tightly in cling film again. Roll once more to form 2 firm cylinders. Put into the freezer for 1–2 hours until just set – you don’t want them to freeze.

TO MAKE THE PEA VINAIGRETTE, blanch the podded peas in simmering water for 3 minutes until tender. Refresh immediately in iced water then drain and pat dry. Pop the peas out of their skins and put the bright green little halves into a small mixing bowl. Add the oil, herbs and seasoning and stir well. Set aside until ready to serve.

TO MAKE THE SALAD, toss the frisée and herbs with the extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice and season lightly.

TO SERVE, remove the squab from the freezer and slice each cylinder into 10 even slices. Remove the cling film from each piece and place 5 slices on each plate. Arrange a small mound of salad next to the squab and drizzle with the pea vinaigrette. Season the squab discs with fleur de sel and pepper and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as an entrée