CHOUX FARCI
½ small onion, dice to a fine brunoise
250 ml (9 fl oz) white wine
500 g (18 oz) minced lamb neck or shoulder meat (about 25% fat)
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 tablespoon chopped sage leaves
salt and freshly ground white pepper
6 large green cabbage leaves, stems removed
2 x 250 g (9 oz) lamb back straps
2 x 8 point lamb racks
800 ml (1½ pints) Lamb Consommé
salt and freshly ground pepper
30 ml (1 fl oz) non-scented cooking oil
16 baby carrots, peeled
2 Braised Lamb Tongues, sliced into quarters while cold
16 Braised Baby Onions
24 Braised Turnips
16 Turned Potatoes Cooked in Lamb Stock
few sprigs chervil
few sprigs tarragon
Traditionally a navarin is a stew made with mutton. The name is derived from ‘navet’, the French word for turnip, which is the main vegetable accompaniment. The Bécasse version is more refined and modern: we replace the mutton with lamb and serve it in a delicate, herb-scented consommé accompanied by choux farci – little stuffed cabbage balls.
TO MAKE THE CHOUX FARCI, put the onion and wine in a saucepan and reduce to a syrup over a high heat. Mix with the lamb mince and herbs, season well and set aside.
Blanch the cabbage leaves for 3 minutes, then refresh in iced water. Pat dry. Place each leaf between 2 sheets of cling film and roll until flat and even. Remove the plastic wrap and use a 5 cm (2 in) pastry cutter to cut out 8 rounds from the leaves. Then use a 3 cm (1¼ in) pastry cutter to cut another 16 smaller rounds.
Divide the stuffing into 24 portions. Lay a large sheet of cling film across the work surface and place the 8 larger cabbage rounds on top, leaving plenty of space between them. Place a ball of stuffing on each, followed by a small cabbage round and flatten slightly. Repeat with another ball of stuffing and cabbage round, finishing with a ball of stuffing. Cut the cling film between each choux and wrap up tightly into neat balls. Prick each ball a few times with a toothpick. This will allow the choux farci to absorb the flavour of the consommé.
Preheat your oven to 190°C (375°F). Trim the sinews from the lamb back straps, leaving a fine layer of fat to protect the meat during the roasting. Trim the 2 lamb racks of sinews. Slice the loin away from one of the racks, reserving the bones to make the consommé.
Put the consommé in a medium saucepan, heat to just below a simmer and keep at this low heat. Season the lamb loin. Heat a heavy-based frying pan until almost smoking, then add the oil and sear the lamb loin until lightly browned all over. Place in the consommé and poach at 75°C (160°F) for 12 minutes, turning regularly to ensure even cooking. Remove from the pan and rest for 6 minutes.
Poach the choux farci in the consommé for 6 minutes. Add the baby carrots and simmer for a further 5 minutes, then add the pieces of tongue and remaining vegetables and cook for a further 2–3 minutes until everything has warmed through.
Meanwhile, put the lamb back straps and the lamb rack into the preheated oven and roast for 3 minutes. Turn the meat over in the pan and roast for a further 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 3 minutes.
To serve, remove the plastic wrap from the choux farci and cut each in half. Carve the poached lamb loin and the 2 roasted lamb straps into 8 slices each. Carve the lamb rack into 8 cutlets. Divide the meat between 8 warm serving bowls. Divide the vegetables evenly between the bowls and ladle over the hot consommé. Garnish with sprigs of chervil and tarragon and serve straight away.
Serves 8 as a main course