HK_GreatSMokyMts

Introduction

We’ve always known that the Smokies are special. The Native Americans who took game here knew it. The early settlers who used the hollows to conceal their moonshine stills knew it. Even the loggers who stripped the mountainsides of their trees knew it. Today, millions of people discover, or rediscover, this special place every year.

You won’t find the country’s highest peaks here, nor its biggest waterfalls, widest rivers, or deepest canyons. No lakes, seashores, glaciers, volcanoes, or geysers exist within the boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. They aren’t needed here.

“The trees.” That’s the answer you often hear when asking first-time visitors what impresses them the most about the Smokies. Except for a few mountaintop balds and a few fields in lowland valleys, trees cover nearly the entire park. Living beneath all of these trees is an amazing variety of flora and fauna. Flowing underneath the trees are hundreds of miles of cascading streams, from tiny branches to small rivers.

An experience here is different from those in many other national parks. It is more intimate, more down-to-earth.

It is . . . great!

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Mount LeConte soars above Newfound Gap Road in this view from Chimney Tops.

How to Use This Guide

The Distance heading gives the length of the hike, in miles, and the type of hike, as explained below. The mileages used in this book come from National Park Service information that is accurate and up-to-date as of this writing. The distances listed on the many trail signs and maps, however, are sometimes incorrect. (The Trails Illustrated maps and the official park trail map are generally up-to-date.) A loop hike starts and finishes at the same trailhead, with no (or very little) retracing of your steps. If you have to hike for some distance before beginning the loop part, it is a lollipop hike. A reverse lollipop is a loop hike with a tail along the loop, like the string on a Hershey’s Kiss. On a point-to-point hike, you start at one location and end at another, without backtracking. Most point-to-point hikes require two vehicles (one left at each end of the trail) or a prearranged pickup or drop-off. One way to manage the logistical problems of shuttles is to arrange for another party to start at the other end of the trail. Trade keys when you meet that party on the trail, and each of you drive the other’s vehicle home. Some point-to-point hikes make good split-party hikes. This is where your group drops you off and you hike back to meet them at the town or front-country campground where you’re staying. On an out-and-back trip, you hike to a specific destination and then retrace your steps to the trailhead.

Hiking times are approximate and based on educated guesses. Everyone hikes at a different pace, and everyone spends a different amount of time smelling the roses along the way, so use the listed times with caution. As a rule, they are based on hiking a little over 2 mph, along with added time for enjoying the features along the hike. (Experienced hikers can cover more ground than this on most trails in the Smokies.) Also in this heading is the manner in which most hikers will do the trip, from a day hike to backpacking trips of various lengths.

Difficulty ratings serve only as a general guide. What is difficult to one hiker may be easy to another. In this guidebook difficulty ratings do not take into account how long a route is, although generally the longer the hike, the more likely it is that it will be difficult. An easy hike is suitable for any hiker, including children and the elderly. Easy trails have no serious elevation gains or hazardous sections. Note, however, that couch potatoes may find the going tough on even the easy trails of the Smokies. Moderate hikes are for people who have some experience and at least an average fitness level. They may not be suitable for children or the elderly. The hike usually includes some hills and may include unbridged stream crossings. Strenuous hikes are only suitable for experienced hikers and those with an above-average fitness level. They can have substantial elevation gain and possibly some hazardous conditions. Some of the strenuous routes in this guide are crowded with hikers who probably should have chosen an easier trail. They crawl back to their cars and grumble about how rugged and inhospitable the park is.

Leashed dogs are permitted on only two trails in the park and bicycles on only four, all noted in the Other trail users heading. This heading is intended mainly to alert you to trails where horses are allowed. Trails that get a lot of horse traffic tend to be muddy and more eroded than hiker-only trails, and they suffer from the inevitable horse pies. However, you’ll miss a lot of good hiking in the Smokies if you avoid horse trails. To make the experience more enjoyable, stop at a few of the horse pies and watch the dung beetles do their thing.

The Maps heading indicates on which of the U.S. Geological Survey topographical maps (USGS quad) the hike is located. These maps show incredible detail with landscape features and terrain. Unfortunately, many of them are horribly outdated regarding trail routes. In fact, they are so bad that you are advised against using them for that purpose. A number of the trails in this guidebook are not even shown on the USGS maps. Also included are the applicable Trails Illustrated maps, which are made of waterproof and tear-resistant plastic. Map #229 covers the entire park; Map #317 covers the eastern half of the park; Map #316 covers the western half of the park. These maps show contour lines and other features and are generally up-to-date. Another good map is the official park trail map, available for a small fee from park visitor centers and backcountry permit stations. It’s smaller than the Trails Illustrated maps and serves well for a quick overview of all the trails in the park and for planning hikes. However, it is made of paper and is not well suited for trail use.

What It’s Really Like

Prime season: Different seasons offer different experiences. In spring the park’s famous ephemeral wildflowers bloom, with mid-April being about peak time. As the tree leaves start to come out, the wildflowers fade, but the vibrant hues from the emerging foliage create a show rivaling the autumn colors. Summer can have horrific traffic jams and the smog often severely restricts the distant views. But in summer the forest is ablaze with rhododendron blooms and the cold mountain streams provide a refreshing break for sweaty hikers. Autumn in the Smokies is unrivaled, with mid-October the normal peak for autumn leaf color. However, depending on the elevation, you can usually find good color throughout the month of October and even into November. October is insanely crowded, but most of the leaf peepers never stray far from their car so you can still find solitude on some of the trails. Winter is delightfully free of traffic jams and provides the clearest long-range views, but winter hiking in the Smokies requires extra planning.

Weather: Snow is common in the higher elevations from November through March, and you should also expect it in October and April. Spring is fickle, with warm sunny days changing to cold snowy ones in a heartbeat. Summer is hot and hazy, and afternoon thunderstorms are common. Autumn has wonderful weather, with a good number of warm blue-sky days and clear crisp nights.

Black bears: The Great Smokies have many black bears and seeing one is always a possibility—and a thrill. Keep that encounter safe by reading Make It a Safe Trip, below.

Bugs: Mosquitoes are typically not a problem in the Smokies since there is little standing water for them to breed. What is irritating are no-see-ums and blackflies. In warm weather they can drive you nuts. See Make It a Safe Trip for more information about nasty insects in the park.

Finding solitude: Some trails are overcrowded; others receive little use yet offer a hiking experience just as rewarding as the crowded trails. The Trail Finder lists some of the most popular trails. Avoiding hordes of people is simple: Don’t hike the most popular trails except on winter weekdays, when your experience will range from seeing a few people to having the hike to yourself.

Thieves: Thieves may prowl the remote parking areas looking for vehicles left overnight or during the day. Even vehicles parked within plain sight of major roads have been broken into and vandalized. The hike descriptions alert you to places that have recurring problems, but you should be careful no matter where you leave your vehicle. Don’t leave anything in sight and don’t leave a note on the dashboard saying how long you’re going to be out. Using a blanket or jacket to cover up stuff is like displaying a sign for thieves that you’re hiding something valuable. Valuables are best left at home, or at least in your trunk.

Large furry things on the road: When hurrying to get to the trailhead in the early morning hours, or when feeling anxious while driving home in the evening, be especially watchful for white-tailed deer, elk, and other wildlife on the roadways. Hitting a deer will ruin your day—it’s even harder on the animal.

Small flat things on the road: It’s sad to see all the roadkill in a place such the Smokies—or anywhere, for that matter. Avoid adding to the flattened fauna by slowing down and watching the road. Box turtles and frogs like to come out after a rain in warm weather, and on a warm, wet night, the frogs are very active.

Water, water, everywhere: Water is everywhere in the Smokies, and nearly every drop of it started out as rain or condensation. You’re likely to have to hike in rain no matter when you visit the park. In winter it can rain solid for days. Summer can bring a thunderstorm every afternoon for weeks. If hiking for more than a few hours, you should carry rain gear with you, regardless of the weather conditions when you set out.

Getting to the Park

It’s estimated that two-thirds of the people in the United States are within a day’s drive of the Smokies. The park is located on the North Carolina–Tennessee border, near the northern border of Georgia. The major interstate accesses are I-40 from the east and west, I-81 from the north, and I-75 from the north and south. Both I-40 and I-75 pass through Knoxville, Tennessee, just northwest of the park. Knoxville is the nearest major city. I-81 joins I-40 east of Knoxville. I-40 also passes through Asheville on the North Carolina side, about an hour from the park. A major access highway from the south is US 23 from Atlanta, which joins US 441 northeast of Atlanta. US 441 is the only transmountain highway in the Smokies, with a large network of smaller roads providing access from all directions. Study a road map to determine the best route from your location.

On your first Smokies trip, you’ll likely enter the park at one of two main entrances: Cherokee, North Carolina, or Gatlinburg, Tennessee. Newfound Gap Road (US 441) connects the two towns, crossing over the Smokies’ crest at Newfound Gap and essentially splitting the park in half. The main park visitor centers are located a short distance from each town: Oconaluftee Visitor Center for Cherokee, and Sugarlands Visitor Center for Gatlinburg. Two other visitor centers are located within park boundaries: a center located at the Cable Mill area in Cades Cove and one on Clingmans Dome. Numerous ranger stations and campgrounds provide additional sources of information throughout the park.

If you are flying to the park and renting a car, you will fly into either Knoxville, Tennessee, or Asheville, North Carolina. (Atlanta is an option as well, especially since many flights to Knoxville or Asheville will connect there.) Knoxville is a little closer and has a larger airport. If heading to the park’s Gatlinburg entrance from Knoxville’s McGhee Tyson Airport, you will take US 129 (Alcoa Highway) north to I-40 in the heart of Knoxville. Take I-40 east to TN 66 at exit 407 (you will see the signs for the park). Follow TN 66 south to Sevierville, where you’ll pick up US 441 and follow it south through Pigeon Forge and into Gatlinburg.

If heading to the park’s Townsend entrance in the western end of the park, take US 129 south from the Knoxville airport and pick up US 321/TN 73 in Maryville. Follow US 321 north to Townsend and continue straight instead of turning left to remain on US 321 (you will see the signs for the park). The Townsend entrance is becoming increasingly popular. It is the closest access to Cades Cove, one of the most popular locations in the park.

From Asheville’s Regional Airport, you will take I-26 north to I-40 and head west on I-40 to US 23/74 at exit 27. US 23/74 is called Great Smoky Mountain Expressway and it offers numerous approaches to the park. Most visitors will follow one of the two main routes from the expressway: US 19 through Maggie Valley and into Cherokee or US 441 into Cherokee. All routes are well signed.

The 469-mile-long Blue Ridge Parkway terminates at Newfound Gap Road, between Cherokee and Oconaluftee Visitor Center.

If you don’t already know something about the park, one of these accesses is likely to be your entry point. There are many additional vehicle entrances to the park, but a first-time visitor will want to drive the main roads initially to get a handle on the park before branching out.

Finally, a word of warning. First-time park visitors are often startled by the juxtaposition of the park and ultra-touristy Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge (home to Dollywood), and to a slightly lesser extent, Cherokee. Although they don’t exactly offer a wilderness experience, these towns do provide valuable services, including accommodations for those who aren’t into camping or backpacking.

Supplies and Services

Unlike many other national parks, Great Smoky Mountains National Park does not have any public lodging, food, or fuel services within its borders. (LeConte Lodge on Mount LeConte is the only lodging exception, but you have to hike 5 miles to get there. The Cades Cove Campground store has basic food and camping supplies, but the store closes in winter.) The surrounding towns offer everything you need, but the services are seasonal at many places. The following closely surrounding towns have basic year-round services: Cherokee, Maggie Valley, Waynesville, and Bryson City in North Carolina; Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge, and Townsend in Tennessee. Other small communities have gas stations and small stores that are open year-round, but most other services close for the winter. Many businesses close for the season even in some of the larger towns, such as Bryson City and Cherokee.

Other than Cades Cove, park front-country (vehicle) campgrounds offer minimal services, such as ice, firewood, and vending machines. Drink vending machines are available at Sugarlands and Oconaluftee Visitor Centers.

See appendix B for a list of commercial shuttle services.

The Trails

In the Smokies, unlike at some other parks, you can’t just strike out and hike wherever you want. The rugged landscape and dense vegetation are not conducive to much off-trail hiking. Besides, doing so can harm the ecosystem, and with more than 800 miles of maintained trails in the park, it’s just not necessary. You can have an intimate experience and see everything you’d want to see right from an official trail. Every hike in this guidebook uses only official trails. Some of the routes follow one trail only; others use a combination of several trails. One advantage to remaining on official park trails is that you don’t have to worry too much about getting lost—as long as you carry a map showing the trails. Every trail junction is signed, and the park does a good job of keeping the signs up. (Bears sometimes chew them up and some of the older ones are rotting away.)

This guidebook includes all of the short self-guiding nature trails in the park, but it does not include any of the “Quiet Walkways.” You’ll see signs indicating these walkways along the main park roads. They have small parking areas so that only a few people can use the trails at a time. All of them are short and lead to some feature, such as a stream or an old homesite. Part of the charm of these paths is not knowing what’s in store until you hike them. So no clues here. Discover them yourself.

In some areas of the park, particularly Sugarlands, Smokemont, Deep Creek, and Cades Cove, you may encounter wide, unsigned trails that obviously are being used regularly. These are usually bridle paths, and while they may be “official,” they don’t make the best hiking trails. Horses are allowed on many of the official hiking trails, but these unsigned bridle paths are intended primarily for horses. You can hike them if you want, but it is not recommended. Stick to the official hiking trails.

Everywhere in the park, you’ll encounter unsigned side paths branching off from the official trails. Some of these paths are heavily traveled, while many of them are old trails that are mostly overgrown. Regardless of the condition, very few of these paths are maintained by the park, and hiking them is discouraged. Again, with over 800 miles of maintained and signed trails in the park, you can experience everything you want right from an official trail.

It is very important that you check ahead to make sure the trails for the hike you are planning are open. Trails may be closed temporarily for a number of reasons, including bear activity, storm damage, and maintenance.

Backcountry Campsites

The park is currently working on a new online system for managing backcountry camping. Permits and reservations will be required for all overnight stays and a small fee will be charged. All backcountry shelters and campsites will be rationed. The park hopes to have the new system implemented sometime in 2013. You should contact the park to find out if the system is in use before making your trip. The following information will apply until the new system is employed.

In the Smokies you must camp at a designated backcountry campsite unless you obtain a special cross-country permit, available only from designated park rangers. The rules for these permits are very strict and applications are not automatically approved. Unless you are working on a scientific research project or something similar, it is highly recommended that you stick to the main trails and campsites just like everyone else. (See The Trails, above.)

All backcountry campsites in the Smokies are numbered and all shelters are named. The sites have names too, but only the numbers are referred to on trail maps and when obtaining permits. All locations that provide backcountry permits have a map showing the location of sites and a listing of rationed sites. (Rationed sites require a reservation.) In addition, both the official park trail map and the Trails Illustrated maps list all of the backcountry campsites and shelters. While the list of rationed sites remains fairly constant, it can change in response to use patterns and bear activity.

All sites and shelters have a water source nearby, either a spring or a stream. Springs are not always dependable, and it’s a good idea to check ahead before beginning an overnight trip in dry conditions. Rangers may not know whether a particular spring is dry, but they can give you a general idea of conditions.

Another consideration is that the park closes campsites occasionally due to bear activity or other reasons. The park posts these closings where permits are obtained, but you don’t want to find out at the last minute that the site you’ve planned on is closed. Call the permit office at (865) 436-1231 to make sure your site is open before you head out.

At the time of this guide’s publication, the following backcountry campsites are rationed and require a reservation in addition to a permit:

Backcountry Permits

Read the opening paragraph of Backcountry Campsites, above, for information about the park’s new permit system. The following information applies until the new system is implemented.

In Great Smoky Mountains National Park, you must have a permit for any overnight stay in the backcountry, regardless of whether the campsite is rationed. The Backcountry Camping Permit system is designed to protect the park’s natural and cultural resources, as well as to provide the best backcountry experience for hikers. See the introduction for Hikes 81 and 82 if you are doing a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.

Permits are free and can be obtained from Oconaluftee or Sugarlands Visitor Centers, ranger stations, most front-country campgrounds, and at some trail information boards. The permit is obtained through a self-registration process. If the site where you wish to camp is not rationed, simply read the instructions on the permit, fill it out, and place one copy in the permit box. If you choose a rationed site, you have to call the Backcountry Reservation Office to obtain a reservation. (Be prepared with alternative dates if you call at the last minute.) The Reservation Office will give you a number to write on your permit. The office is open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. ET. Call (865) 436-1231 for reservations. The general backcountry information number is (865) 436-1297.

Backcountry Use Regulations

These regulations apply to all backcountry users, including Appalachian Trail thru-hikers.

In the Great Smokies, do:

Have a permit to camp in the backcountry.
Follow all instructions on the permit, and keep the permit in your possession while hiking.
Camp only at designated campsites and shelters.
Build fires only in established fire rings at designated campsites or shelters.
Use only wood that is dead and down to build fires. Backpacking stoves are encouraged.
Suspend your food and odorous items from the provided suspension cables.
Carry out all trash. If you can pack it in, you can pack it out.
Have a valid state fishing permit from either North Carolina or Tennessee if you fish in the park. A permit from either state allows you to fish anywhere in the park. Be sure to obtain specific fishing regulations from the park before you fish.

In the Great Smokies, do not:

Feed, harass, or intentionally disturb wildlife.
Cut, carve, or deface trees or buildings.
Take non-service pets into the backcountry. (Non-service pets are allowed only on Oconaluftee River and Gatlinburg Trails.)
Make campsite “improvements” such as fire rings, rock walls, or drainage trenches.
Use a wheeled vehicle or cart on hiking trails. The exceptions for bicycles are Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee River Trails and the lower portions of Deep Creek and Indian Creek Trails. The exceptions for wheeled carts are the lower sections of Hazel Creek, Forney Creek, and Noland Creek.
Cut switchbacks.
Wash dishes or bathe (with soap) in park streams.
Pitch a tent at backcountry shelters. Appalachian Trail thru-hikers may camp outside shelters if there is no bunk space available. See the introduction for the Appalachian Trail at the beginning of Hikes 81 and 82.
Dispose of human waste within 100 feet of a campsite or water source or within sight of a trail. You should bury feces in a 6-inch-deep hole.
Gather ramps. The park no longer allows picking these onion-like plants.
Stay more than one night in a row at a shelter or more than three consecutive nights at a campsite. (This may change with the new fee system.)

Leave No Trace

If you turned around and backtracked the hike you just made, would you see any evidence that you had been there? Did the animals and plants feel any effect from your visit?

Going into a national park such as Great Smoky Mountains National Park is like visiting a world-renowned museum. You wouldn’t want to leave your mark on an art treasure, would you? If everybody going through the museum leaves one little mark, the piece of art will quickly be destroyed—and of what value is a big building full of trashed art? The same goes for an environment such as the Smokies, which is as magnificent as any masterpiece by any artist. If we all leave just one little mark on the landscape, the wilderness will soon be despoiled.

The park can accommodate human use if everyone behaves responsibly, but a few thoughtless or uninformed visitors can ruin it for everybody. All visitors have a responsibility to know and follow the rules of Leave No Trace hiking and camping. Today, most people want to walk softly, but some aren’t aware that they have poor manners. Often their actions are dictated by the outdated habits of a previous generation of campers who cut green boughs for evening shelters, built campfires with fire rings, and dug trenches around tents. In the 1950s these “camping rules” may have been acceptable, but they leave long-lasting scars, and today such behavior is absolutely unacceptable. The wilderness is shrinking and the number of users is mushrooming. More and more camping areas show unsightly signs of heavy use.

A new code of ethics has grown out of the necessity of coping with the unending waves of people who want a rewarding wilderness experience. Today, we all must leave no clues that we have gone before. Canoeists can look behind their boat and see no trace of their passing. Hikers should have the same goal.

Leave nothing, regardless of how small it is, along the trail or at the campsite. Pack out everything, including orange peels, cigarette butts, and gum wrappers. If possible, pick up trash that others leave behind.
Follow the main trail. Avoid cutting switchbacks and walking on vegetation beside the trail.
Do not deface any natural feature or any manmade structure by carving, marking, or destroying in any manner.
Do not pick wildflowers or any plant. All living things in the park are protected by law.
Camp only in designated campsites and only use existing campfire rings if you must build a fire. Camp stoves are recommended.

For more information about treading softy in the outdoors, visit the website for Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics at www.lnt.org.

Make It a Safe Trip

The Boy Scouts of America have been guided for decades by what is perhaps the best single piece of safety advice: “Be prepared!” It might seem a bit excessive to place so much emphasis on safety when hiking in a park whose trails are all signed and well maintained, but just ask the park rangers what they think about it. Their job is to find and rescue all the people who think nothing can happen to them.

Tell somebody where you’re going and when you plan to return. Pilots must file flight plans before every trip, and anybody venturing into the backcountry should do the same. File your “flight plan” with a friend or relative—or at the hotel desk—before taking off. (Don’t leave your itinerary on the dashboard of your car. This only invites thievery.)
Bring extra food and water.
Bring warm clothing and raingear, no matter what the weather forecast is.
Stay on the official park trails. On a regular trail in the Smokies, you, or someone who finds you in distress, is rarely more than a dozen or so miles from help, and usually much closer. If something happens to you while you are off-trail, the chances of rescuers finding you or of you getting help are greatly diminished.

If you get lost, try not to panic. Yes, that’s a trite statement. It’s also sage advice. Unless you’ve done something really stupid like wander for miles off-trail before stopping to realize that you don’t know where the heck you are, getting lost in the Smokies is not necessarily a big deal. Sit down and relax for a few minutes while you carefully check your map. Most important, as mentioned above, do not leave the trail. You are never truly lost while on an official park trail. Many tragedies have occurred in the Smokies because hikers became twisted around and thought they would be better off by leaving the trail. If you stay on the trail, the chances of meeting another hiker who can help you are much greater (it’s probably impossible if you’re off-trail). Also, if you don’t make it back when you’re supposed to and a search party is sent out, they will scan the trails first.
Don’t wait until you’re confused before looking at your map. Follow the map as you go along so that you have a continual fix on your location.
Keep your party together if you become lost.
Physical conditioning is an important consideration. Being fit not only makes outdoor travel more fun, it also makes it safer.
Check the weather forecast and keep an eye on cloud formations. You don’t want to get caught in a lightning storm on a ridgeline or find yourself crossing a stream during a flash flood. Remember, though, that the weather in the Smokies can change very quickly and the forecasts are not always accurate.
Don’t eat wild plants unless you have positively identified them and then only eat the fruiting body. Don’t destroy plants.
Before you leave for the trailhead, find out as much as you can about the route, especially the potential hazards.
Don’t exhaust yourself or other members of your party by traveling too far or too fast. Let the slowest person set the pace.
Stay clear of all wild animals.
Take a first-aid and survival kit that includes at least basic supplies.
Stay on the trail. Yes, it’s worth repeating.

Lightning. The Smoky Mountains are prone to sudden thunderstorms, especially during summer. If you get caught by a lightning storm, you need to take special precautions.

Lightning can travel far ahead of a storm and linger afterward. Take cover before the storm hits, and don’t leave until you are sure it is safe.
Don’t try to make it back to your vehicle—it isn’t worth the risk. Instead, seek shelter even if it’s only a short way back to the trailhead. Lightning storms usually don’t last long, and from a safe vantage point you might even enjoy the sights and sounds.
Be especially careful not to get caught on a mountaintop or exposed ridge. Other bad places to be are under large, solitary trees, out in the open, or near water.
Seek shelter in a low-lying area, ideally in a dense stand of small, uniformly sized trees.

Stay away from anything that might attract lightning, such as metal tent poles, graphite fishing rods, or pack frames.
Get in a crouch position, and place both feet firmly on the ground.
Don’t walk or huddle together with others. Instead, stay at least 50 feet apart so that if somebody is hit by lightning, others in your party can give first aid.
If someone is struck by lighting and he or she is not breathing, prolonged CPR should be administered.

Hypothermia. Be aware of the dangers of hypothermia—a condition in which the body’s internal temperature drops below normal. It can lead to mental and physical collapse—even death. It is among the more serious dangers for Smoky Mountain hikers.

Hypothermia is caused by exposure to cold and is aggravated by wetness, wind, and exhaustion. The moment you begin to lose heat faster than your body produces it, you’re suffering from exposure. Your body starts involuntary exercises, such as shivering, to stay warm, and makes involuntary adjustments to preserve normal temperature in vital organs, restricting blood flow to the extremities. Both responses drain your energy reserves. The only way to stop the drain is to reduce the degree of exposure.

With full-blown hypothermia, as energy reserves are exhausted, cold reaches the brain, depriving you of good judgment and reasoning power. You won’t be aware that this is happening. You lose control of your hands. Your internal temperature slides downward. Without treatment, this slide leads to stupor, collapse, and eventually death.

To defend against hypothermia, you need to stay dry. When clothes get wet, they lose about 90 percent of their insulating value. Wool loses relatively less heat, while cotton, down, and some synthetics lose more. Choose rain clothes that cover the head, neck, body, and legs and provide good protection against wind-driven rain. Most hypothermia cases develop in air temperatures between thirty and fifty degrees Fahrenheit, but hypothermia can develop in warmer temperatures.

If your party is exposed to wind, cold, and wetness, you should be on the lookout for hypothermia symptoms. Watch yourself and others for uncontrollable fits of shivering; vague, slow, slurred speech; memory lapses; incoherence; immobile or fumbling hands; frequent stumbling or a lurching gait; drowsiness (to sleep is to die); apparent exhaustion; and inability to get up after a rest. When a member of your party has hypothermia, he or she may deny any problem. Believe the symptoms, not the victim. Even mild symptoms demand treatment, as follows:

Get the victim out of the wind and rain.
Strip off all wet clothes.
If the victim is only mildly impaired, give him or her warm drinks and then get the victim in warm clothes and a warm sleeping bag. Place well-wrapped water bottles filled with heated water close to the victim.

If the victim is badly impaired, keep him or her awake. Put the victim in a sleeping bag with another person—both naked. If there are other people who can help, have them lie on the outside of the sleeping bag with the victim.
Seek medical help as soon as it is safe to do so. Do not leave a hypothermic victim alone.

Heat exhaustion. Like hypothermia, heat-related illness is a serious concern and should not be taken lightly. It is caused by an insufficient supply of water to the body in hot temperatures. Victims can suffer from nausea, feeling dizzy or faint, headaches, vomiting, muscle cramps, behavior changes such as stumbling and disorientation, and a general feeling of weakness. If you see these symptoms in a person, you should immediately try to lower their body temperature. Get them out of the sun and have them drink lots of water. If you’re near a creek or spring, get the water from the creek and constantly pour it over the victim’s body. (Do not immerse the victim in the creek, as this may make the condition worse.) Find something to use as a fan to move air over the victim’s body.

Seek medical help as soon as possible. Heat exhaustion can lead to heatstroke, a very serious medical emergency.

Bad bugs. Blackflies and no-see-ums are a major nuisance to summer hikers in the Smokies. The good news is that they just irritate you—they don’t cause any real harm. Bees, on the other hand, do cause serious problems. Most bee stings in the park come from yellow jackets, which have a nasty habit of building their underground nests in the middle or the edge of hiking trails. If you’re lucky enough to see the bees before you walk over them, just give them a wide berth and walk slowly around the nest. While yellow jackets are aggressive, they won’t attack unless they feel threatened. If they fly around you while you walk by, don’t swat at them. That will pretty much guarantee a sting.

If you are stung on your hand, remove your rings immediately, before any swelling occurs. For most people, one or two bee stings are not a serious issue, resulting only in temporary pain and minor swelling. However, multiple stings can be serious, even if you are not allergic to bee stings. If you experience symptoms other than local swelling and pain, such as difficulty in breathing or breaking out in welts, this is a serious issue. Take an antihistamine, such as Benadryl, and seek medical help immediately.

If you know you are allergic to bee stings, you should take precautions before hiking in the Smokies from spring through fall. Consult with a doctor about proper prevention measures and always have your bee-sting kit with you on the trail.

Bad plants. Many poisonous or obnoxious plants live in the Smokies, but only two are likely to cause any trouble for most hikers. The first is poison ivy. Poison ivy only grows in disturbed and usually open areas, but that still gives it a lot of real estate to thrive in the park. The plant is pervasive is some areas, particularly old homesites and along old roads. As with all safety concerns, the best treatment is prevention. Learn to identify the plant and just stay the heck away from it.

The other nasty plant in the Smokies is wood nettle. You might not be familiar with this plant, but the first time you brush against it while wearing shorts, you’ll never forget it. Examine a wood nettle plant closely and you’ll see thousands of tiny prickles all over the leaves and stem. They sting like fire when you brush against them, although the pain is fortunately short-lived. Wood nettle is very common and has a habit of growing along trails. Learn to identify it and, as with poison ivy, stay away from it.

Long, slithery animals. Two kinds of venomous snakes live in the Smokies: the northern copperhead and the timber rattlesnake. Both of them would prefer not to have an encounter with you just as much as you would prefer not to have an encounter with them. So, if you don’t seek them out and if you don’t do something stupid like stick your hands and feet where you can’t see, you’ll likely be just fine. If you happen across a snake on the trail, simply give it a wide berth and leave it be. Remember, all living things are protected in the park, whether or not they are potentially dangerous.

If a venomous snake bites you, do not apply a tourniquet and do not make any incisions. These outdated field treatments often do more harm than good. Instead, seek medical attention as soon as possible, without rushing. You should hike slowly, trying to keep the blood circulation down as much as possible. If you are with someone, send that person for help while you remain stationary. Try to remain calm. Many snakebites are dry, with no venom being injected.

Bad shoes and tree limbs. Perhaps the most common medical emergencies that befall hikers in the Smokies are leg and ankle injuries. When hikers don’t pay attention to where they’re going, they can step on a loose rock or stick and wham!—they’re on the ground with a scraped knee or twisted ankle, or worse. A very common cause of hikers hitting the trail—literally—is stepping on wet, barkless water breaks on the trail. You know, those tree limbs running diagonally across the trail to divert water. Once the bark falls off, they are slick as ice when wet. Nearly all of these injuries can be prevented by following these two pieces of advice: Pay attention to where you’re stepping and don’t wear sandals.

Some people think that to “get back to nature” means it’s obligatory to put on the Tevas or Keens. Sandals are perfectly fine in some situations, but hiking in the Smokies is not one of them. Sandals provide nearly zero ankle protection and they allow sticks and stones to get in and irritate your feet. The ones with open toes are particularly dangerous to wear on the rocky trails of the Smokies. Do your feet a favor and wear ankle-supporting hiking boots.

Bad water. Regardless of how “crystal clear” a stream or spring might appear, there is no guarantee that the water in the Smokies is safe to drink. You don’t know what animal might have left its mark 5 minutes before you got there. All sorts of bacteria, viruses, and parasites could be in the water, including Giardia lamblia, a nasty little protozoan that causes severe abdominal cramps and diarrhea.

The best defense against illness is to bring all drinking water to a roiling boil for 1 minute. It is not necessary to boil the water for 5 or 10 minutes. Boiling water is impractical on many trips, so many people use pump-style water filters. Most of these types of filters will remove Giardia and bacteria, but most viruses are too small to filter. Iodine treatments are often impractical with the cold water temperatures of mountain springs. With very cold water, the time required for iodine to purify the water could be several hours, depending upon the concentration.

Don’t fall in the water. If you do much hiking in the Smokies, sooner or later you’re going to have to ford a stream. In winter and early spring, with water levels at their highest, many streams are too large to rock-hop and they must be waded. In summer, when streams are typically at their lowest levels, most creek crossings in the Smokies are rock-hoppable, but the conditions could change quickly if a thunderstorm moves through. During any time of year, prolonged or heavy rains can swell streams to unsafe levels.

Stream crossings in the Smokies are different from those at some other national parks. The creeks here are steep and rocky mountain streams. When the water is up, they can become raging torrents. If you fall in, the accepted practice of lying on your back and going downstream feet first until you can right yourself still applies, but it may be impossible to do so before you crash into a few dozen rocks and fallen trees. These aren’t wide glacial or valley rivers we’re talking about here: The streams here are full of rocks and downfall. The best advice, of course, is not to fall in.

A good idea is to practice. Most creek crossings have bridges or foot logs. Try fording the stream on the upstream side of the foot log, using it to keep your balance. You’ll quickly learn how to read currents. Before attempting any ford, consider the following:

Don’t attempt a crossing if you feel unsafe. Never feel embarrassed by being cautious.
Don’t automatically cross at the trail. Search upstream and downstream for a better crossing.
Loosen the belt straps on your backpack. It will help you maintain your balance as you cross and allow you to get out of the pack quickly if you fall.
Streams in the Smokies are very cold. Don’t attempt a long crossing in bare feet, even in summer, unless you have experience doing so. Your legs can numb and you can injure your feet on sharp rocks or sticks.
Many hikers carry lightweight sandals, which work well as creek-crossing shoes and camp shoes. Keep in mind, however, that sandals provide no ankle protection. You need to be extremely careful crossing streams when you can’t see the bottom.

In winter even a short crossing can be dangerous. A good idea is to take off your socks and cross wearing just your boots. Once across, immediately dry your feet and put your socks and boots back on. You can dry your boots by the campfire that night.
A walking stick can help you keep your balance, but rocky creek bottoms make it difficult to get a good purchase with one. Be sure to plant the stick firmly before taking your next step.

Be bear aware. Something happened on May 21, 2000, that had never before happened in the Smokies: A person was killed by a black bear. It is not known whether the victim did anything to provoke the attack. While such incidents are extremely rare—and there’s no reason to panic about man-eating bears prowling the park—the case does underscore the need for all hikers to educate themselves about proper conduct in bear country.

The majority of bear attacks occur when a hiker surprises a bear. Therefore, it’s vital to do everything possible to avoid these surprise meetings. Be alert at all times, keeping a watchful eye on the surroundings, not just the trail ahead of you. Stay on the trail, where there’s less chance of a sudden encounter. Be especially watchful in summer when hiking near berry patches or black cherry trees. That clump of blueberries ahead might have a black bear in it. Make noise when you hike to alert the bears to your presence.

If you see a bear on the trail, freeze. Chances are, the bear doesn’t give a hoot about you and will carry on with its business. Let it. A bear that snorts or paws the ground is just telling you that you are too close. Listen up. Don’t get any closer, and if the bear is not moving away, slowly separate yourself from the bear. A bear that feels threatened might make a bluff charge. Stand your ground—don’t run. It’s tough to stand your ground against a charging bear, but that is exactly what you should do. No human can outrun a bear.

A bear that follows you but does not exhibit aggressive behavior, such as snorting, pawing, or bluff charging, may consider you a food source. Continue retreating and change directions. If the bear continues to follow, arm yourself with whatever you can, such as a knife or stick, and stand your ground. If you’re with a group, huddle together to appear larger. Raise and spread your arms. Start yelling and throwing rocks. Don’t throw food, as this will only encourage more behavior that is aggressive. As an absolute last resort, try throwing your entire pack at the bear. The time the bear spends investigating its contents may be just enough time for you to get away. If the bear ignores your pack, particularly if it has food in it, you might be in serious jeopardy. Hold tight to your knife or stick, and if the bear makes contact and continues attacking, fight back as aggressively as you can. Don’t play dead; that seems only to work with grizzlies. Black bears usually bluff charge, but if they do make contact, they might consider you food.