53 Forney Ridge and Noland Divide

This trip encompasses what most people look for in a Smokies adventure: high-elevation views, old-growth forests, cascading streams, wildflowers, and a challenging hike. On the latter point, if you’re attempting this hike in one day, plan to start early and drag in late. Plan also to be a tired puppy by the end of the day. The first 1.8 miles of this hike to Andrews Bald is the same route as in Hike 52.

(See map for Hike 51: Clingmans Dome.)

Start: Forney Ridge Parking Area on Clingmans Dome

Distance: 18.4-mile loop

Hiking time: About 10 hours—killer day hike or overnighter

Difficulty: Strenuous, due to steep grades, rocky trails, and creek crossings

Trail surface: Forest trails, some very rocky, and a section of paved road walking

Best season: Second half of June for azalea and rhododendron bloom on Andrews Bald

Other trail users: The 2.8-mile section on Springhouse Branch Trail is open to equestrians; the rest is for hikers only

Maps: Clingmans Dome, Silers Bald, Noland Creek, and Bryson City USGS quads; Trails Illustrated #229 Great Smoky Mountains; Trails Illustrated #317 Clingmans Dome Cataloochee; Trails Illustrated #316 Cades Cove Elkmont (only shows western half of hike)

Special considerations: Clingmans Dome Road is closed Dec 1–Mar 31. The first 1.8 miles of this hike to Andrews Bald is extremely popular, especially in June when the azaleas bloom. A great option for avoiding the crowds is to arrive at the Forney Ridge Parking Area early and watch the sunrise from the parking lot. After sunrise you can hike to Andrews Bald before most people are stirring.

You must make at least one crossing of Noland Creek without a foot log or bridge. Count on it being a wade—after heavy rains it can be dangerous or impassable.

To complete this loop without benefit of a shuttle, you must walk the final 1.5 miles along Clingmans Dome Road, being very cautious to stay out of traffic by walking on the road shoulder.

Other: The parking lot is huge, but it’s often not big enough to accommodate weekend traffic. Pit toilets are located at the parking area. A new visitor center is located near the start of the hike.

Finding the trailhead: At Newfound Gap turn west onto Clingmans Dome Road and drive 7.0 miles to the Forney Ridge Parking Area at the end. Forney Ridge Trail begins on the far western end of the parking area. The paved path to Clingmans Dome Tower goes to the right, while Forney Ridge Trail drops down off of it to the left. GPS: N35 33.409' / W83 29.772'

The Hike

Take Forney Ridge Trail and descend steeply for 0.2 mile to the junction with Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail. You need to cut sharply back to the left (south) to remain on Forney Ridge Trail. In the past, heavy rains (common here) turned this rocky trail into a creek bed, but new trail construction has made this situation much better.

Descend for a little more than a mile and in a small clearing reach the junction with Forney Creek Trail on the right. Stay straight (south) on Forney Ridge Trail. The forest here is darker and denser than you see in many other spruce-fir areas. The mature Fraser firs are dead, but there are more young trees here than in some places. The forest here provides a hint at what once covered these mountaintops. After a moderate ascent you exit the woods and descend to Andrews Bald.

The many paths spreading out over the bald are confusing. Just keep heading down to the lower end until you see the sign marking the trail’s exit from the bald. Pass a hog exclosure on the right after leaving the bald. The trail is steep, rocky, and full of puddles when it’s raining. Pass through a delightful rocky area with lush moss, ferns, lichens, and many wildflower species.

Here the footing changes from rocks to dirt and is fairly level, with even a few uphill sections. In places, briars overgrow the trail. After rounding over a ridge, you start a long and sometimes steep descent to Board Camp Gap at mile 5.6. Forney Ridge Trail ends here and Springhouse Branch Trail takes over. You want to go sharply left (northeast) on Springhouse Branch Trail.

For a while, you follow the contour line, and then you swing around a ridge and descend to the Springhouse Branch drainage, where you cross several branches in quick succession. The forest through here is old growth and this is great wildflower habitat. In spring this area is a highlight of the hike. The last and largest stream in the immediate vicinity is Springhouse Branch. After crossing it you descend somewhat steeply for about 0.75 mile to Mill Creek and cross it on a mossy foot log. Just before the crossing there’s an old rock wall on the left, and just after, the remains of an old stone chimney. This place was obviously once someone’s home.

The next 0.75 mile or so is on a loose parallel of Mill Creek, all the way to Solola Valley and Campsite 64. The valley saw heavy settlement before the park was established and even had its own post office. Today, all that remains are scattered foundations, clearings, broken artifacts, and such. Campsite 64 is a horse camp, and although its setting at the confluence of Mill Creek with Noland Creek is pleasant enough, the site is not the best for backpackers. It’s badly worn and receives heavy horse use. If you’re doing this hike as an overnighter, you might want to continue to the next site.

At Campsite 64 is the junction with Noland Creek Trail, which follows Noland Creek 4.1 miles downstream to Lakeshore Drive. Your hike goes east on Noland Creek Trail and follows the creek upstream. A short way upstream you cross the creek on a narrow foot log, and after ascending beside the creek, you cross it again. Come to Campsite 63 at mile 9.8 (1.4 miles from Campsite 64). The site is small and right beside the trail, but it’s more appealing than site 64. This is a good place for an overnighter.

Continuing on, you soon cross the creek a third time on another foot log, and the trail then becomes steeper and rockier. The fourth creek crossing is a wade. Next, you come to Campsite 62, situated beside Noland Creek. Pressing on, you rock-hop a side stream and right afterward come to the final crossing of Noland Creek. It’s a tough rock-hop, and in high water, it might not be safe even to wade across.

After hiking a segment away from the creek and making a couple of tributary crossings, arrive at Campsite 61, a small rationed site situated beside Noland Creek. Shortly beyond the campsite, the trail makes a sharp right switchback and begins a brutal ascent to Upper Sassafras Gap on Noland Divide. Noland Divide Trail intersects here. Turn left (northwest) on it and follow the ridgeline 3.7 miles to Clingmans Dome Road. Half a mile before reaching the paved road, the trail exits onto a gravel road, just below a tower used for monitoring acid precipitation. Follow the gravel road uphill to Clingmans Dome Road. (Hike 50 follows the route from Clingmans Dome Road to Sassafras Gap. Refer to it for a little more detail about this segment.)

Once on the paved road, turn left and walk the remaining 1.5 miles to the parking area, being very cautious to stay out of traffic by walking on the road shoulder.

Miles and Directions

0.0Start from the western end of the parking area on Forney Ridge Trail.

0.2At the junction with Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail, turn sharply back to the left (south) to remain on Forney Ridge Trail.

1.1Junction with Forney Creek Trail on the right. Continue straight (south) on Forney Ridge Trail.

1.8Arrive at Andrews Bald. Walk to the lower end of the bald and find the sign indicating that Forney Ridge Trail continues south.

5.6At Board Camp Gap turn sharply left (northeast) onto Springhouse Branch Trail.

8.4Junction with Noland Creek Trail at Campsite 64. Turn left (east), following the trail upstream.

9.8Campsite 63.

11.0Campsite 62.

12.6Campsite 61.

13.2Junction with Noland Divide and Pole Road Creek Trails at Upper Sassafras Gap. Turn left (northwest) onto Noland Divide Trail.

16.4Junction with service road. Noland Divide Trail follows the road straight ahead, heading uphill.

16.9Arrive at Clingmans Dome Road. Turn left and follow the road back to the parking area. Be very cautious along the road.

18.4Arrive at Forney Ridge Parking Area.

Options: Several trails provide access to the Forney Creek and Noland Creek watersheds and the adjacent ridges. Experienced backpackers can plan extended trips using Clingmans Dome as a starting point. The Silers Bald and Forney Creek hike (Hike 54) outlines one such route. This is tough country. Don’t plan to hike many miles each day, particularly on the way back up to Clingmans Dome.