Chapter 10

DESSERT AND
CHOCOLATE

(Dessert et Chocolat)

“Seize the moment.
Remember all those women
on the Titanic who
waved off the dessert cart.”

Erma Bombeck

Recipes featured in this chapter:

Apple (Pomme) and Kouign-Amann Pudding

Lemon (Citron) Mascarpone Mousse

Leftover Red Wine and Pomegranate (Grenade) Poached Pear (Poire)

Seared Banana (Banane) Crêpe with Hazelnuts, Brandy, and Petit Suisse

Raspberry (Framboise) Clafoutis

Chocolate Terrine (Pavé au Chocolat)

Hot Chocolate (Chocolat Chaud)

Dessert (Dessert)

Every day is a treat when I’m in France, but being allowed to ogle the outrageously beautiful baked goods displayed in a patisserie’s window gives me a special thrill. My first visit to France was during my sophomore summer trip in 1960. I had never seen (nor have I ever seen elsewhere) such displays of artful baking. Delicate puff pastries—éclairs, petit fours, colorful macarons, and exquisite tarts—all decorated with precision and flair, demand almost as much careful inspection as the Monets and Gauguins do in the country’s world-class museums. Many patisseries offer sandwiches and a place to sit while enjoying their delicious offerings, and there is always a bakery to be found in even the tiniest French village.

The signature French bakery items are croissants and macarons, which are imitated almost everywhere on earth, but never taste quite as they do in France. Every time I’m on an airplane returning from Europe I notice people lovingly placing their pastel bags of macarons from Ladurée or Fauchon in the safest spots they can find. And no wonder! They are fabulous and unique. Macarons are basically two perfectly smooth domed meringue cookies flavored and colored at the whim of the baker. The shell is crisp on the outside and melts in the mouth immediately. The filling, which can be sweet, tart, or savory, takes a leading role as you happily munch away. I was astonished when Tim came home one day and told me that McDonald’s was selling macarons. Of course, he had sampled several and declared that they were pretty good.

One day Deborah and I were window shopping in Paris (that was the only way we could shop in the extremely upscale Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood). We left the venerable, gorgeous Le Bon Marché, where we drooled over elegant, unaffordable designer duds and unique household items displayed in that exquisite confection of Victorian glass and iron.

Resisting temptation had made us hungry, so it was time to rest and enjoy something we could actually afford. I steered her to my favorite purveyor of macarons, Gerard Mulot, where it took us a long time to deliberate over dozens of elegant varieties. We made our choices and walked a few blocks to the Square Felix-Desruelles, a lovely little pocket garden honoring one of France’s celebrated sculptors. We plopped down on a shady bench before a lovely bas-relief panel and tucked into our feast.

By this time, the two of us had polished off the entire bag of macarons and were fortified enough to enjoy a few more hours of drooling over all the beautiful things in that playground of the rich and famous. We topped off the afternoon with a glass of wine at Les Deux Magots and made another visit to M. Mulot’s place to buy a treat for Tim.

Afternoons like that are what make France so irresistible to me. The atmosphere of unhurried appreciation for beautiful things, art, music, food, friends, and tradition invite visitors to slow down and emulate their hosts.

I find it fascinating that while the French produce some of the most gorgeous, sublime-tasting sweets in the world, as a rule, they are not overweight. I’m told by my French friends that those tempting treats that fill the cases of the patisseries are usually eaten only on special occasions. On ordinary nights in a French household, the desserts are nearly always fresh fruit. We try to emulate their self-control when we are in the country, but I must admit that we don’t often succeed. Somehow a lemon tart or a chocolate profiterole manages to leap from a shop into Tim’s cart on the way home from the farmers’ market. See, everything in France is magical! The good news is that we walk so much when we are in France that we rarely add too much to our derrieres.

Deborah has developed some delicious desserts that may help you resist the offerings of your local bakery shop and satisfy your craving for a little sweet something after a meal.

Chocolate (Chocolat)

The fantastic offerings you see every day in France’s patisseries and restaurants are enough to make you never want to leave, but just as important are the chocolate emporiums. The French have a history with chocolate dating back to 1615; it was a gift to the 14-year-old King Louis XIII from his 14-year-old wife to be, Anne of Austria. More than a century later, Marie Antoinette brought her personal chocolatier to Versailles when she arrived in 1770 to become Louis XVI’s queen. Let’s hope she didn’t take the poor fellow with her at the end of her reign! By the early twentieth century, chocolate shops were common in cities and towns throughout the country, and it was about then that people began to give chocolate as gifts for special occasions and as hostess gifts. Chocolate is so popular that the average French person eats 15 pounds a year. Once you have experienced really fine French chocolate you’ll wonder why that number isn’t higher.

Mass producers of chocolate use huge amounts of sugar to disguise the poor quality of their chocolate, while true chocolatiers use only pure chocolate made with cocoa butter, not palm oil or other subpar ingredients. The flavorings, herbs, spices, fruits, and cream are all top-quality, and instead of smashing their preparations into molds, their confections are dipped. This means the chocolate coating can be thinner and the finished product can be more dynamically flavored than their mass-produced cousins.

Chocolatiers are highly respected in France and the really fine stuff commands a hefty price. But if you’re going to have a chocolate moment, shouldn’t it involve a sublime, velvety, melt-in-your mouth experience rather than the gritty, sugary taste of an inferior product? There are chocolate shops throughout France, but of course, they aren’t all of superior quality. So how’s a civilian supposed to tell the difference? First, the shop itself, if it’s a truly excellent one, should look it. The best chocolatiers’ establishments are so beautifully designed that they resemble haute couture or jewelry stores. A kitschy store selling cheap chocolates and souvenirs is not where you will find the level of chocolate excellence that will give you the experience you’re looking for. The very best shops are extremely simple but elegant, and when you enter you’re sure to be intimidated by the wide range of choices and almost hushed atmosphere you’d expect in a first-class jewelry establishment. But you can rest easy: We’ve put together some suggestions to help you make the most of your visit.

To calm yourself, first just take a deep breath and let the fragrance of chocolate soothe your soul, then take a reconnaissance stroll around the store. You’ll notice the bonbon de chocolate, which are bite-sized chocolates filled with a wide variety of flavors. There will be chocolate bars, which are rectangular. These may be plain, filled, flavored, or decorated with nuts or dried fruit. You’ll see fruit dipped in chocolate and chocolate-covered marshmallows, plus dozens of other delicious creations.

As you peruse the divine offerings, be prepared for sticker shock. Like all good things, excellent, high quality, handmade chocolates are not cheap. A pound of excellent filled chocolates will set you back between 100 and 120€, and bonbons will cost you around 1€ each. You can satisfy your chocolate lust for around 5 to 10€ if you opt for chocolate bars. I know the price is shocking! But remember that these chocolates are so superior that you’re bound to enjoy them more than some ordinary chocolate made with inferior ingredients. Plus, they’re so satisfying that you’ll be happy eating fewer.

Be sure to choose items with fillings, fruits, or nuts so that you’ll get to experience the art of the maker. A plain piece or bar won’t tell you very much about the expertise involved in producing such delicacies.

The unspoken rules are, like many traditions in France, subtle. If you want to fit in, resist the urge to handle everything you see. Chocolate is delicate, and the store will not be able to sell anything that’s been even slightly damaged.

Since you’ll make a significant investment in these goodies, treat them right to get the maximum enjoyment. Do not put chocolate in the refrigerator or you’ll destroy its creamy texture. Keep it at cool room temperature. Although it’s doubtful your purchases will not be gobbled up in short order, you should consume them within a week or two. If you want to keep them longer or take them home as gifts, you’ll be wise to buy chocolate bars. They have a longer shelf life and aren’t as delicate as the individual pieces.

There are hundreds of chocolate makers in France, but the grand-mère of them all is À la Mère de Famille at 35 Rue du Faubourg in the Montmarte district of Paris. Founded in 1761, it is the oldest chocolate store in Paris. Although there are several branches throughout the city and the country, a visit to the original building is a historical adventure. Imagine how many people have walked through that door to slake their urgent need for a chocolate fix.

Quality chocolate abounds in France. Two boutique chains have many locations throughout France. You’re sure to enjoy both La Maison du Chocolat and Pralus, whose signature rich brioche is flavored with praline pieces. It’s to die for! Also, the renowned chef Alain Ducasse operates many branches of chocolate shops bearing his name. Nowhere in France will you be far from a place to enjoy a rich chocolate treat.

Hot Chocolate (Chocolat Chaud)

As with all of their food fixations, the French are fanatical and opinionated about their hot chocolate. You’ll find it on menus in cafés, tea houses, chocolate shops, and restaurants everywhere. The debates about using water versus milk or cream for hot chocolate has been raging for centuries. Personally, we love the richest kind—with hot milk. It’s just the ticket for a chilly afternoon pick-me-up. If you want to engage in some chitchat with a server, give some of these questions a go:

• Est-ce un chocolat chaud traditionnel? Is it a traditional hot chocolate?

• Est-il preparé avec de l’eau ou du lait? Is it prepared with water or milk? (Remember there is no right answer!)

• Quelle est la teneur en cacao de votre chocolat? What is the cocoa percentage of your chocolate?

• Quel chocolat utilisez-vous? What chocolate do you use?

• Est-il servi avec de la crème? Is it served with cream? (Viennois hot chocolate is always served with whipped cream and is usually a bit more expensive.)

  DESSERT (Dessert)

SINCE FRUIT is such an important part of the French dessert course, Deborah has created several knockout recipes featuring fruit. You’ll want to make them all, and your family will be glad you did.

Apple (Pomme) and Kouign-Amann Pudding

  serves 6  

Kouign amann is a pastry. Deborah has been obsessed with it since visiting a friend’s new house in Saint-Malo. It’s like a round dessert version of a croissant.

Ingredients

4 tablespoons (60 ml) butter, plus more for the pan

1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

4 cups of kouign amann cut into 1½-inch (40 mm) chunks

4 eggs

2 egg yolks

1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream, more if needed

1 cup (250 ml) milk, more if needed

⅓ cup (70 g) sugar

1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla

2 tablespoons (30 ml) Calvados

Salt

¼ teaspoon (1.5 g) each of suggested spices: cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander or others that you have on hand

Equipment

Baking dish (about 8 inches square/20 cm square)

Baking sheet

Knife for cutting

Measuring cups and spoons

Saucepan

Vegetable peeler or paring knife

Whisk

Method

1. Butter the baking dish.

2. Melt ¼ cup butter. Place the apple slices and kouign amann pieces on the baking sheet. Drizzle with melted butter and toss to coat. Toast in the oven until the kouign amann is just golden, about 20 minutes. Scrape it all into the baking dish.

3. Whisk together the eggs, yolks, cream, milk, sugar, vanilla, Calvados, salt, and spices. Pour over the apple mixture to cover. If you are slightly short on liquid, pour a little more cream or milk in. Let sit in the refrigerator overnight.

4. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (175°C) until golden brown on top, about 35 minutes.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions

• This is wonderful with Chantilly cream, ice cream, or a drizzle of caramel.

• Try making it with croissants (about 5 of them) instead of kouign amann.

• You can also use cubed leftover baguette or brioche. Just cube it, toss it with butter, and toast it first.

Lemon (Citron) Mascarpone Mousse

  serves 4  

This dessert is super simple and quite refreshing after a heavy meal. Adapted from a recipe by the venerable Mark Bittman.

Ingredients

1½ to 2 lemons (preferably Meyer)

Lemon zest, for garnish

¼ cup (50 g) plus 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar

1½ cups (375 ml) mascarpone

2 tablespoons (30 ml) cream or ¼ cup cream, unsweetened, whipped

1½ cups (200 g) fresh raspberries or blueberries, or any berries of your choice

3 tablespoons (30 ml) honey

Equipment

Bowl

Knife for cutting

Measuring cups and spoons

Whisk

Zester or fine grater

Method

1. Zest and then juice the lemons into a bowl (save some zest for garnish). Add the sugar and mascarpone. Whisk until smooth. Incorporate the bit of cream (or fold in the whipped cream).

2. Pour into 4 short glasses, martini glasses, or something similar. Cover and chill in the refrigerator.

3. Top with raspberries and honey.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions

• If you don’t have a zester, a microplane, or a fine cheese grater, don’t worry. You can either grate your zest with any size grater or peel the zest off with a vegetable peeler and then chop finely, hopefully with a sharp chef’s knife. Or if you happen to have a mezzaluna (a curved, double-bladed chopper), which many French home kitchens have, you can use that by rocking it back and forth over the zest until it is pretty much pulverized. You could also put the peeled zest in a mortar and grind it with the pestle.

• You cannot substitute the mascarpone with cream cheese, no matter what the internet says.

• If you feel up to it, you can put this mousse in a cooked tart shell and pile the berries on.

Leftover Red Wine and Pomegranate (Grenade) Poached Pear (Poire)

  serves 4  

So you thought you would finish that last bottle of wine that you opened a couple of nights ago, but no. There it still sits on the kitchen counter three-quarters full. You taste it and it’s just not what it was. Don’t pour it down the sink. Make this instead.

Ingredients

½ orange, cut in two wedges

2 cups (475 ml) pomegranate juice

2 cups (475 ml) red wine

1½ cups (300 g) sugar

1 cinnamon stick*

2 cloves*

2 peppercorns*

½ star anise*

Pinch of salt

4 whole firm pears, peeled (do not remove stems)

¼ cup crème fraîche

2 tablespoons honey

¼ cup (75 g) crumbled blue cheese, room temperature

2 tablespoons toasted crushed pecans, walnuts, or hazelnuts

Equipment

Knife for slicing

Large pot

Measuring cups and spoons

Peeler

Slotted spoon

Small bowl

*If you don’t have any of the spices, you can substitute with something else or just omit them.

Method

1. In the pot, squeeze the two orange sections, throw in the squeezed sections, peel and all, then add the pomegranate juice, red wine, sugar, and spices. Bring the mixture to a simmer.

2. Add the pears to the pot and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, occasionally turning with a fork or tongs until toothpick tender. Remove from the poaching liquid and set aside. Fish the solids out of the poaching liquid with a slotted spoon (or something similar) and discard. If necessary, return the liquid to the heat and simmer until thick and syrupy.

3. While the pear is cooking, combine the crème fraîche, honey, and blue cheese in the bowl.

4. Place pears on plates or in bowls. Pour syrup over and drizzle with crème fraîche mixture and sprinkle with the toasted nuts.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions

• If the blue cheese doesn’t appeal to you, whip together some mascarpone and orange zest, halve the pears and remove the core, scoop the mascarpone mixture into the pear, and drizzle with the sauce.

• If you are out and about and you find some candied nuts, substitute those for the plain nuts.

• This dessert is amazing with a scoop of great quality vanilla bean ice cream.

• You can poach your pears with white wine. If you do, forgo some of the stronger spices and throw in a vanilla bean or a cardamom pod. Skip the blue cheese and go for the ice cream with the sauce drizzled over.

• Of course you can also poach pears in brandy and honey, but that’s another story altogether.

Seared Banana (Banane) Crêpe with Hazelnuts, Brandy, and Petit-Suisse

  serves 4  

Use the leftover crêpes you might have purchased for other meals.

Ingredients

4 crêpes

½ cup (120 g) Petit-Suisse

4 tablespoons (60 ml) butter

2 ripe but firm bananas, sliced into ¼-inch (6 mm) slices

Sea salt

2 tablespoons (30 ml) brandy

½ cup (100 g) brown sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) toasted and crushed hazelnuts

Equipment

Knife for slicing

Measuring cups and spoons

Medium to large sauté pan

Method

1. Lay out four crêpes on four plates. Divide Petit-Suisse between the four crêpes and smear down the middle.

2. In a sauté pan, heat butter over medium-high until bubbly. Add banana slices in a single layer (this is important; if they are piled together, they will not brown). Sauté about a minute and stir around a bit to brown the other side of bananas. Sprinkle with salt.

3. Deglaze with brandy and immediately sprinkle with brown sugar. Remove the pan from the heat.

4. Spoon the bananas over Petit-Suisse. Fold the two sides of the crêpes over bananas in the middle. Drizzle remaining pan sauce over crêpes and sprinkle with hazelnuts. Dig in!

Raspberry (Framboise) Clafoutis

  serves 8  

A claufoutis is deceptively easy to make and wonderfully impressive to serve. It’s basically a fluffy pancake with fruit, and when it comes out of the oven puffed up like a beautiful soufflé, everyone will think you’re a genius. This dessert is traditionally made with cherries, but since pitting cherries, as you may have learned, can be tiresome, this version is with fresh raspberries. Deborah’s friend Valerie, who lives in Bordeaux, gave us her recipe.

Ingredients

3 large eggs

½ cup (70 g) flour or almond flour

1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla

2 tablespoons (30 ml) brandy or eau-de-vie, divided

1 teaspoon (5 ml) fresh lemon juice

¼ cup (50 g) plus 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar, divided

3 tablespoons (45 ml) melted butter

¼ teaspoon (1.5 g) salt

1 cup (330 ml) whole milk

1 pound (450 g) fresh ripe raspberries or blackberries or mixed berries

Equipment

Baking dish, such as a pie plate

Knife for cutting and slicing

Measuring cups and spoons

Mixing bowl

Whisk (optional)

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

2. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, flour, vanilla, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) brandy, lemon juice, ¼ cup sugar, butter, salt, and milk. Whisk until smooth.

3. Pour into a buttered baking dish. Top with fruit and sprinkle with the 3 tablespoons sugar.

4. Bake until set, about 40 minutes.

5. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon brandy over the top (or even a little more if you want). Let cool just a bit and serve warm or at room temperature.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions

• Test the custard with a toothpick. It’s done when it comes out somewhat clean.

• Try substituting other stone fruits or berries, or a combination! You could even try figs.

• Serve warm or at room temperature. A great make-ahead dessert, it’s perfect for a picnic and I’ve been known to eat it for breakfast.

Pairing Raspberry eau-de-vie

  CHOCOLATE (Chocolat)

HERE’S A FITTING WAY to end this chapter. Chocolate, the king of sweets, is revered in France and almost everywhere else in the world. Be sure to try these two excellent recipes which are sure to assuage even the neediest sweet tooth.

Chocolate Terrine (Pavé au Chocolat)

  serves 6 to 8  

Pavé is the French term for a cobblestone or paver. When this dessert is made in a loaf pan and then sliced, it’s shaped like a paving stone. If you put it in a cake pan and cut wedges, then you could call it a chocolate terrine. No matter what you call it, it’s heavenly.

Ingredients

2 pounds (1 kg) bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Pinch or two of salt

1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla

2 tablespoons (30 ml) butter

1½ cups (350 ml) rich red wine, such as Bordeaux

1 cup (250 ml) cream

¾ cup (100 g) shelled roasted pistachios, crushed (salt optional)

Raspberries for garnish

Equipment

Knife

Large mixing bowl

Loaf or cake pan

Measuring cups and spoons

Parchment paper or plastic wrap

Small saucepan

Whisk

Method

1. Line a loaf pan with parchment paper.

2. Put the chocolate pieces, salt, vanilla, and butter in a bowl.

3. Heat the wine and cream in a saucepan until hot but not boiling. Pour over the chocolate.

4. Let sit about 2 minutes, then whisk until smooth and shiny.

5. Pour half of the chocolate into the loaf pan, then neatly sprinkle the pistachios, creating a layer. Add the second layer of chocolate over the pistachios. Hit the pan on the countertop a couple times to remove bubbles and set the chocolate.

6. Chill overnight and slice to serve. When sliced, you should have a lovely green pistachio line through the middle.

7. Scatter raspberries to serve.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions

• This dessert is lovely with macerated berries.

• If you don’t have any fruit, sprinkle with a bit of sea salt when serving.

Hot Chocolate (Chocolat Chaud)

  serves 4  

This recipe makes delicious, rich hot chocolate. Using high-quality chocolate is essential. And we would never make this with water. Don’t be afraid to add the good salt—it really makes the chocolate flavor stand out. In fact, every dessert should have a little salt added to balance the sweetness and heighten the taste experience.

Ingredients

2 cups (500 ml) whole milk

4.5 ounces (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped (high quality)

Pinch or two of sea salt

1 tablespoon (15 g) brown sugar (optional)

Equipment

Knife for chopping

Measuring cups and spoons

Medium saucepan

Whisk

Method

1. In the saucepan, heat the milk until hot but not boiling.

2. Remove from the heat and whisk in the chopped chocolate, stirring until all the chocolate is incorporated.

3. Taste and stir in the salt and perhaps the brown sugar, if you think it’s needed.

4. Swoon while you sip and wonder how you will ever go back to anything powdered again in your life.

Variations, Ideas, Suggestions Try topping with Chantilly cream (slightly sweetened whipped cream) or mix in any one of the following:

• Cayenne (or chipotle)

• Espresso powder

• Cinnamon

• Hazelnut liqueur

• A few drops of real vanilla extract

• Brandy (my favorite)

• A spoonful of caramel (Deborah’s favorite)

• The tiniest piece of peppermint candy