Fried Potatoes

Potatoes, like the key ingredients in most of these side dishes, are a New World crop, cultivated first by the Incans thousands of years ago. These simple tubers blanketed in savory red chile make a hearty side dish, especially when days are chilly. Try them paired with some of the breakfast specialties if you wish.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wash the potatoes and prick in several spots with a fork. Bake the potatoes on the oven rack 50 to 60 minutes, until tender. Remove the potatoes and set aside to cool. Cut unpeeled baked potatoes into bite-size chunks.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy medium skillet (cast iron is especially good) and add the onion. Sauté briefly over medium heat until the onion wilts. Add the potatoes to the skillet, sautéing until the chunks begin to turn brown and just a little crusty. Pat the potatoes down, then stir them back up, several times to cook on all sides. Add the butter if the potatoes begin sticking to the pan, or if you just like the idea of it as another flavoring. Salt to taste.

3. Transfer to a plate or dish and pour warm red chile sauce over the potatoes. Serve immediately.

Variation: Rosemary Potatoes. Omit the onion from the recipe. Just when the potatoes are getting brown in the skillet, sprinkle in a teaspoon, mas o menos, of crumbled dried rosemary. Finish with salt. Serve with or without red chile sauce.