Meat-Grinder Udon

TASTIER

VEGETARIAN

Makes 2 main-course or 4 light-meal servings (can be doubled)

Fresh udon is a thing of beauty: thick, chewy noodles that take to soups and stews like nothing else. Unfortunately, fresh udon is also quite rare in North America, mostly because it’s very fragile and doesn’t transport well. Here’s a shortcut way to make udon using a meat grinder. (Even the gizmo on a stand mixer will work.) Serve in udon broth (see More!) or tossed with Spicy and Crunchy Peanut-Sesame Sauce (here). Or drop them into a pot of chicken or beef soup for an unbelievable treat. Or use them as a bed for your favorite beef, pork, or chicken braise.

2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the noodles

2 teaspoons table salt

⅔ to ¾ cup cool water

1. Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl, then add ⅔ cup water and stir until a rough dough forms, adding more water in small increments just to get the dough to cohere without being sticky.

2. Dust a clean, dry work surface with flour. Knead the dough until smooth and supple, about 10 minutes. Set aside, covered with a clean kitchen towel, to rest for 1 hour.

3. Assemble a meat grinder with the fine die grind plate in place but without the blade behind it.

4. Turn the machine on high and drop small balls of the dough into the feed tube, pushing them down with the auger. Keep adding more balls until the noodles start to extrude and reach about 10 inches. Stop the machine and use kitchen shears to cut the noodles free.

5. Pull apart any noodles that are stuck together. Toss them with a little flour, make a small nest of them, and set this nest on a large baking sheet. Then soldier on, making more noodles from small balls of the dough. Covered with a clean, dry kitchen towel, the noodles can remain at room temperature for up to 1 hour.

6. To cook the noodles, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook for 5 minutes before testing for doneness. The noodles should have a definite chew but without any raw, sticky feel. If necessary, cook for 1 or 2 minutes longer, then drain in a colander set in the sink.

image To make the classic udon broth, combine 3 cups store-bought dashi (a seaweed and fish broth), ½ cup soy sauce, and ½ cup mirin in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then pour over the cooked noodles in bowls. Garnish with thinly sliced scallions.