Colander Ziti with Ham, Asparagus, and Parmesan Cream Sauce

FASTER

GLUTEN-FREE

Makes 4 servings

This luxurious pasta dish provides a quick meal for a weeknight—and a cream sauce without another pan to clean. The only trick is to use thin asparagus spears with no thick, fibrous ends. As long as you work in the stated timings, the egg yolks will cook to a safe temperature without curdling. However, if you’re concerned or are cooking for someone with a compromised immune system, look for pasteurized, in-the-shell eggs at larger supermarkets.

6 ounces very thin asparagus stalks, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1½ cups)

7 ounces diced smoked ham (about 1 cup)

¾ cup heavy cream

4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

¾ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1½ ounces)

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon table salt

12 ounces dried ziti (gluten-free if that is a concern)

1. Bring a large saucepan or pot of water to a boil over high heat.

2. Meanwhile, put the asparagus and ham in a colander set in the sink.

3. Whisk the cream, yolks, cheese, tarragon, pepper, and salt in a large, heat-safe serving bowl until creamy and smooth.

4. Pour the ziti into the boiling water. Cook according to the package directions just until tender to the bite but with some chew, 6 to 9 minutes depending on the brand.

5. Slowly drain the pasta and its cooking water over the asparagus and ham in the colander. Set aside for 1 minute.

6. Whisk the cream mixture one more time. Dump the hot mixture from the colander on top of the sauce and toss well, stirring until the cheese melts and the pasta is evenly coated. Serve at once.

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Voilà! In general, the water for cooking pasta should be quite salty, more so than just a pinch of salt for a pan of, say, vegetables. Pasta cooking water should taste about like sea water (about 1 tablespoon table salt per quart of water). That said, in these colander pasta suppers, don’t salt the water to this extent since it’s a cooking medium for other things beyond the pasta. In fact, we let the sauce carry the salt in this modified pasta technique.