Streamlined Homemade Pastrami

FASTER

GLUTEN-FREE

Makes 6 to 8 servings

By starting with a store-bought corned beef from your supermarket’s deli case, you can add liquid smoke and create a darn fine pastrami with little fuss. It’ll keep, tightly covered, for about a week in the fridge—or wrap it when cooled and freeze it for several months. Look for sales on packaged corned beef just before and certainly right after March 17, Saint Patrick’s Day. Stock up and make several pastramis that you can keep in the freezer.

One 3- to 4-pound low-sodium corned beef, drained

1 tablespoon cracked yellow mustard seeds

1 tablespoon cracked coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cracked fennel seeds

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

One 4-ounce bottle liquid smoke

About 3 cups water

1. Rinse the corned beef and pat dry with paper towels.

2. Combine the mustard seeds, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and black pepper in a small bowl. Rub this mixture over both sides of the corned beef.

3. Set a steamer rack or basket in a large Dutch oven or a soup pot. Place the coated corned beef on the rack or in the basket. Pour the liquid smoke into the pot, to the side of the meat so it doesn’t dislodge any spices. Add the water in the same way, just enough so that it stops about ¼ inch below the bottom of the steamer rack or basket.

4. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and steam until the meat is tender without falling apart, adding more water if the pot starts to go dry, about 3 hours.

5. Transfer to a cutting board and cool for 10 minutes before slicing against the grain into thin, long strips.

Test Kitchen Notes

• If the corned beef is not low-sodium, soak it in a pot of water overnight in the fridge to remove excess salt that can mask the flavors of the pastrami.

• Discard any flavoring packets that come with the corned beef.

• Crack the mustard, coriander, and fennel seeds in a garlic press or under a heavy pot on a cutting board.

• A pastrami is tender when you can poke a meat fork into it and the tines come back out without any resistance.

• Some liquid smoke uses barley malt flour as a carrier for the smoky flavors. If concerned, search out gluten-free alternatives, most readily available online.

To make pastrami in a pressure cooker, place the steamer rack or basket in a 6- to 8-quart pressure cooker, set the coated corned beef on the rack or in the basket, then add the liquid smoke and water as directed, letting the liquids come to about ¼ inch below the bottom of the rack or basket. For a stovetop cooker, lock on the lid, set the pot over high heat, and bring to high pressure (15 psi); then reduce the heat as low as possible to maintain high pressure and cook for 50 minutes. For an electric cooker, lock on the lid and set to cook at high pressure (9 to 11 psi) for 1 hour 10 minutes. In either case, use a natural release, removing the stovetop pot from the heat source or turning off the electric cooker. Unlock the lid, transfer the pastrami to a cutting board, and cool for 10 minutes before slicing as directed.

Want to make the best Reuben sandwich? Start by making the best Russian dressing: Whisk ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon ketchup, and 1 tablespoon pickle relish in a small bowl. For one Reuben, smear 1 tablespoon of the dressing on each of two slices of rye bread. Top one with ¼ cup drained sauerkraut and 3 to 4 ounces thinly sliced pastrami. Set the other slice of bread, dressing side down, on top. Lightly coat a large skillet with nonstick spray, then set it over medium heat for a minute or two. Add the sandwich and cook, turning once, until the bread is toasted golden brown, about 3 minutes. Notice what’s missing? Cheese. A million kosher delis can’t be wrong.