THE UNTAPPED DEPTHS OF PEANUT BUTTER

Because of the way peanuts are roasted and ground, peanut butter offers a depth of flavor that is the equivalent of a long-simmered base to use in stews and braises, even in some fine no-cook sauces. In fact, for the most intense flavor, look for the darkest colored peanut butter on the store’s shelf. Some brands (like Laura Scudder’s on the West Coast of the U.S. or Santa Cruz Organic) are particularly dark because they’re made from peanuts roasted far beyond a light toasting. But there can even be color variations within the same brand.

In North America, peanut butter is sold as two types: natural-style and so-called “regular” (or “standard”) peanut butter. Natural-style peanut butter is made solely from peanuts (and maybe salt), whereas regular (or standard) peanut butter has additional fat to help emulsify the mixture (and sometimes added sugar, too).

Natural-style peanut butter often separates, leaving an oil slick on the top. Do not pour off that oil for these recipes! Instead, turn the jar upside down and leave it alone for a few days, then turn it right side up and stir with a flatware knife to incorporate the oil (which is now sitting at the bottom of the jar).

Both sorts of peanut butters are sold in creamy and chunky versions. All these recipes (indeed, all the recipes in this book that use peanut butter) call for natural-style creamy peanut butter.